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  • 1.
    Devendorf, Laura
    et al.
    ATLAS Institute & Information Science, University of Colorado Boulder, United States.
    Walters, Kathryn
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi. The Swedish School of Textiles, University of Borås, Sweden.
    Fairbanks, Marianne
    Design Studies, University of Wisconsin-Madison, United States.
    Sandry, Etta
    Concordia University, Canada.
    Goodwill, Emma R
    Atlas Institute, University of Colorado Boulder, United States.
    AdaCAD: Parametric Design as a New Form of Notation for Complex Weaving2023Ingår i: Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems - Proceedings, ACM Digital Library, 2023Konferensbidrag (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    Woven textiles are increasingly a medium through which HCI is inventing new technologies. Key challenges in integrating woven textiles in HCI include the high level of textile knowledge required to make effective use of the new possibilities they afford and the need for tools that bridge the concerns of textile designers and concerns of HCI researchers. This paper presents AdaCAD, a parametric design tool for designing woven textile structures. Through our design and evaluation of AdaCAD we found that parametric design helps weavers notate and explain the logics behind the complex structures they generate. We discuss these finding in relation to prior work in integrating craft and/or weaving in HCI, histories of woven notation, and boundary object theory to illuminate further possibilities for collaboration between craftspeople and HCI practitioners.

    Ladda ner fulltext (pdf)
    fulltext
  • 2.
    Lewis, Erin
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi. Högskolan i Borås.
    Kooroshnia, Marjan (Formgivare)
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Walters, Kathryn (Formgivare)
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Electroluminescent Textiles2019Övrigt (Övrig (populärvetenskap, debatt, mm))
  • 3.
    Lewis, Erin
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi. Högskolan i Borås.
    Kooroshnia, Marjan
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Dumitrescu, Delia
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Walters, Kathryn
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Colour, texture, and luminance: Textile design methods for printing with electroluminescent inks2023Ingår i: Cultura e Scienza del Colore - Color Culture and Science Journal, ISSN 2384-9568, Vol. 15, nr 1, s. 27-34Artikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    Printable smart materials offer textile designers a range of changeable colours, with the potential to redefine the expressive properties of static textiles. However, this comes with the challenge of understanding how the printing process may need to be adapted for these novel materials. This research explores and exemplifies the properties and potential of electroluminescent inks as printable smart colours for textiles, in order to facilitate an understanding of designing complex surface patterns with electroluminescent inks. Three conventional textile print methods – colour mixing, halftone rasterization, and overlapping – have been investigated through experimental design research to expand the design potential of electroluminescent inks. The result presents a set of methods to create various color mixtures and design complex patterns. It offers recipes for print formulation and documents the outcomes, offering a new design resource for textile surface pattern designers to promote creativity in design, and provides fundamental knowledge for the creation of patterns on textiles using electroluminescent inks.

    Ladda ner fulltext (pdf)
    fulltext
  • 4.
    McQuillan, Holly
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Walters, Kathryn
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Peterson, Karin
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Critical Textile Topologies X Planet City: The intersection of design practice and research2021Ingår i: Research in Arts and EducationArtikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    This paper discusses the collaborative project the authors undertook for the speculativefilm Planet City in the context of a research program titled Critical Textile Topologies. Itoutlines the experimental design research methodology undertaken in the project, andreflects on the tension between design practice and design research that occurred in thedevelopment of multimorphic textile-based forms using whole garment weaving. Afteroutlining the project as a whole, two key areas are discussed: The negotiation betweenexpectations relating to design practice and the requirements of experimental designresearch; and the emergence of multimorphic understanding of this kind ofinterdisciplinary design practice. Planet City provided the researchers with a clear‘laboratory’ context to experiment within, rapidly driving the research forward in order topresent a speculative vision for the future. The paper presents this research as an exampleof interdisciplinarity situated at the borderline between practice and research,demonstrating that when balance is maintained between various practical and researchdrivers new knowledge and an enticing vision for the future can be developed.

    Ladda ner fulltext (pdf)
    fulltext
  • 5.
    Walters, Kathryn
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    2D to 3D workshop: A method for teaching form-generating processes through the exploration of contrasting material combinations2021Ingår i: Conference Proceedings CIVAE 2021: 3rd Interdisciplinary and Virtual Conference on Arts in Education / [ed] MusicoGuia, 2021Konferensbidrag (Refereegranskat)
    Ladda ner fulltext (pdf)
    fulltext
  • 6.
    Walters, Kathryn
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    A role for industrial looms in craft research2021Ingår i: FormAkademisk - research journal of design and design education, Special Issue: Proceedings of BICCS 2021 - Biennial International Conference for the Craft Sciences. / [ed] Janne Beate Reitan, Oslo, 2021, Vol. 14, nr 2Konferensbidrag (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    As a definition of craft practice, the workmanship of risk emphasises the judgement and skill of the crafter, as they engage with materials, tools, and techniques to produce artefacts. Through experimental design research methods, self-forming three-dimensional textiles were created with the aim to develop both the use of digital and automated tools for weaving, and language to describe the process of textural forming in weaving when hand and machine meet. Examples of experimental work illustrate the potential of industrial looms as tools for crafting complex textile systems and expressions. The results include a method for crafting at the intersection of the workmanship of risk and CAD/CAM, providing a framework for this hybrid practice, while a new language of textile forming for craft including industrial and CAD/CAM tools emerges.

    Ladda ner fulltext (pdf)
    fulltext
  • 7.
    Walters, Kathryn
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi. University of Borås, Sweden.
    Emergent behaviour as a forming strategy in craft: The workmanship of risk applied to industrial-loom weaving2022Ingår i: Craft Research, ISSN 2040-4689, E-ISSN 2040-4697, Vol. 13, nr 2, s. 327-348Artikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    Digital tools such as computer-aided design and computer-aided manufacturing (CAD/CAM) have expanded the nature of craft practice, offering new means of design and making. However, in weaving, handmaking continues to be privileged, despite the acceptance of digital design and computer-controlled lifting mechanisms. Through experimental design research methods, self-forming three-dimensional textiles were designed in CAD software and woven on a computer-controlled jacquard power loom (a CAM tool). The textiles' three dimensionality arises from the combination of materials (contrasting shrinking and stiff yarns), structure and finishing. They are contextualized as craft objects through Pye's concept of 'the workmanship of risk'. As outcomes of a craft process, they illustrate the potential of industrial looms as tools for producing complex textile systems and expressions. The results include a method for crafting at the intersection of the workmanship of risk and CAD/CAM, providing a framework for this hybrid practice. The concept of emergent behaviour is discussed as a craft strategy when the workmanship of risk is focused on material forming rather than the tool or technique. This concept is contextualized beyond weaving, suggesting its applicability to other craft fields and practices, whether produced by hand or with the use of digital tools. 

    Ladda ner fulltext (pdf)
    fulltext
  • 8.
    Walters, Kathryn
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Fibre, fabric, and form: Embedding transformative three-dimensionality in weaving2021Ingår i: / [ed] Brandt, E.; Markussen, T., Berglund, E.; Julier, G.; and Linde, P., 2021Konferensbidrag (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    Textiles, and textile objects, no matter their scale, retain traces within their expression of the fine scale fibre or yarn from which they are formed. Woven textile forms are typically constructed using hierarchical cut-and-assemble techniques, where the expression at the fibre-scale may be subsumed by that of the dominant form expression. Through experimental design research, a framework for designing non-hierarchical woven textiles has been developed, which navigates between 2D and 3D thinking and micro- and macro-scale design elements. This framework is contextualised through three methods for embedding three-dimensional form in a textile as itis woven: Catenary Structure, Tension Folds, and Expanding Layers. An example is presented foreach method, and the design of these multimorphic textile-forms is discussed, alongside the variable nature of scale in the digital textile design process. The framework exposes the multimorphic nature of woven textile-forms, and provides a lens for understanding their design process. 

    Ladda ner fulltext (pdf)
    fulltext
  • 9.
    Walters, Kathryn
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Kapsali, Veronika
    London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London.
    From Boxfish to Twistbox: Developing a Woven Textile Hinge Through Bio-inspired Design2023Konferensbidrag (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    In woven textile-form design, layers may be stacked in a pleat structure, in order to provide greater area from a limited weaving width, or to create shaping in a rectangular cloth. The layers are typically joined by weaving them together where their edges meet. However, this method of joining creates a thickened seam, and may prevent the layers from opening flat. This paper presents a woven textile hinge structure, which enables joined layers to be opened flat, without adding extra thickness, or requiring further finishing. Its utility is demonstrated through the Twistbox, an eight-layer textile-form, woven flat, which unfolds into a cube, and can be collapsed and unfolded indefinitely. The structure was produced through experimental design research, in the context of a bio-inspired design collaboration. Inspired by natural suture structures, the hinge structure broadens possibilities for woven textile-form design, while its development provides a case for how biomimetics may be applied in textile design.

  • 10.
    McQuillan, Holly
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Peterson, Karin
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Walters, Kathryn
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Critical Textile Topologies: Experiment 0 (trouser)2021Konstnärlig output (Granskad)
    Abstract [en]

    How do we design and produce textile-forms for the body without creating waste?

  • 11.
    Peterson, Karin (Forskare, Upphovsman)
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    McQuillan, Holly (Upphovsman)
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Walters, Kathryn (Upphovsman)
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Talman, Riikka (Upphovsman)
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Critical Textile Topologies: Experiments at the intersection of surface, textile and form.2021Konstnärlig output (Granskad)
  • 12.
    Walters, Kathryn ()
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    DRAFTS: Design Research Artifacts as an Intermediary Knowledge: Research Exhibition at Pakistan Institute of Fashion and Design (PIFD), Lahore, Pakistan2021Konstnärlig output (Granskad)
    Abstract [en]

    Line, 2018

    Cotton, polyamide monofilament, wool, elastic.

    In Line, contrasting materials are woven together --stiff monofilament, soft wool, and shrinking elastic. The design is defined by small hexagonal pockets of double-weave, punctuated by a span of stiff single-weave. This loom-woven textile has been aggressively finished in a hot machine wash, felting the wool, and forcing the monofilament out from the textile surface in loops. This artifact arose from a series of experiments exploring form morphologies and material behaviour when combining two yarns with shrinking potential with a stiff yarn, and how different finishing techniques could alter the form-making relationship between the materials within the textile.

    (Selections from) Rectangle, 2018

    Cotton, linen, polyamide monofilament, paper tape yarn, elastic

    The nine textile artifacts that make up Rectangle explore how structure and material combine with finishing processes (steaming, washing, tumble drying) to produce different morphologies of form. They are transformative textiles woven flat on the loom, with the potential for three-dimensional form embedded in the interaction between structure and material. The paper yarn’s behaviour is fundamentally altered through finishing --from stiff, to soft when tumbled dried, or felting when washed at high temperatures. Meanwhile the stiff monofilament resists the shrinkage of the elastic yarn, deforming the rectangular plane of the textile.

  • 13.
    Walters, Kathryn
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    DRAFTS: Design Research Artifacts in the Context of Exhibition; 1st International Art Triennial Unpredictable Futures: Nenuspejamos Ateitys (UFNA) at Lithuanian Museum of Ethnocosmology and Moletai Region Museum, Lithuania2021Konstnärlig output (Granskad)
    Abstract [en]

    Transforming patterns, 2017

    Polyamide monofilament, elastic, cotton, polyamide.

    This experimental textile was designed to explore the effects of different ratios of warp and weft, scale, and layer transposition on the surface patterning and three-dimensional form of a single textile. Textural variations affecting the appearance of the patterning and the three-dimensional form were created by varying the proportions of warp and weft between the front and back layers in certain areas.The result is a textile with surfaces which both undulate smoothly, and buckle. In some areas, the weft strains to cover the warp, while in others it escapes completely, turning in loops and spirals before re-entering the woven structure. This is an expression due entirely to the behaviour of the textile as a complex system: the textile making itself.

  • 14.
    McQuillan, Holly
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Peterson, Karin
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Walters, Kathryn
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Talman, Riikka
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Experiment 0 - tunic and trousers: Väv – hantverk för alla / Weaving - crafts for everyone2021Konstnärlig output (Ogranskad)
    Abstract [en]

    Experiment 0 tunic and trousers: cut but unshrunk, shrunk on mould, uniformly shrunk [6 pieces]

    Cotton and polyester

    These textile-forms do not require new technology, only rethinking how existing technology is currently used and understood. Using an innovative design process that enables the production of 2D woven textiles with the form embedded into the weave structure, these structures and heat-reactive fibres produce zero waste garments (or other textile-forms) through cutting and heat-forming over a 3D mould, with minimal or no assembly required. The textile-form can also be uniformly shrunk or altered with heat over many alternative forms to manipulate its form further at any stage of this lifetime. The overall aesthetic expression of the garment – its texture and form – emerges from the making process, and is therefore unique to each textile-form.

    This process transforms garment construction from what is usually a labour-intensive hand process to an almost fully automated one – and front loading or reversing the 'craft' of making to the design stage, while leaving the design perpetually ‘unfinished’. Each different decision and the sequence of alteration becomes an extension of the design and prototyping process, unveiling connections and unintended consequences of earlier decisions and material choices.

  • 15.
    Walters, Kathryn
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Flex2023Konstnärlig output (Ogranskad)
    Ladda ner (mp4)
    Flex timelapse
  • 16.
    Walters, Kathryn (Upphovsman)
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Form from flat2021Övrigt (Övrig (populärvetenskap, debatt, mm))
    Abstract [en]

    The project Form from flat explored the creation of three-dimensional woven textiles through the interaction of material and structure. These textile-forms aim to challenge the process of forming textile objects and spaces, suggesting an alternative to textiles as passive materials for design. Their three-dimensional form is a result of the interaction of contrasting yarn properties, weave structures, and finishing processes. The contrast of shrinking and stiff yarns generates tension in the textile, creating distortions and separating layers. Each textile has a specific behavior,  generating its unique form and texture through a process of emergence. This process creates dynamic textiles, which change and evolve from two-dimensional loom woven fabrics to three-dimensional textile-forms; a complex textile system emerging over time. These images take advantage of the digital exhibition format to draw attention to details of form and texture in a selection of the experimental textiles produced during the project. These details both reveal and conceal different elements of these textiles’ design and construction, demonstrating an intricacy of texture and form at a scale that is often overlooked.

  • 17.
    Walters, Kathryn
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Penguin2022Konstnärlig output (Granskad)
    Abstract [en]

    The form of the Penguin textile artifact arises from an experiment exploring a three-layer weave-and-cut pleat structure (developed by Holly McQuillan: McQuillan, 2020), but transposing it to a closed volume incorporating stiff and shrinking yarns. The woven geometry is a simple one, and it is the interaction of the material and structure that gives rise to complex three-dimensional form. Penguin arises from a 'form-finding' design process (Baerlecken & Wright, 2014): one that allows space for the natural tendencies of the materials within a structure to produce three-dimensional form.

    Exhibited in Drafts:3. Curators Jane Tepe, Faseeh Saleem, Vidmina Stasiulyte, Berit Greinke.

  • 18.
    McQuillan, Holly (Upphovsman)
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Walters, Kathryn (Upphovsman)
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Peterson, Karin (Upphovsman)
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Sulfuric Tunic: VII Art of Research: Authorship and Responsibility Exhibition2020Konstnärlig output (Granskad)
    Abstract [en]

    The Sulfuric Tunic, part of the Critical Textile Topologies X Planet City project, is a multimorphic textile-form, produced through whole-garment weaving. It embodies experimental design research that explores reversed crafting, zero-waste systems thinking, and complex textile behaviour. Its design incorporates notions of hyper-local manufacturing and circularity in a positive future-making context. Critical Textile Topologies is a collective of designer-researchers exploring new design expressions, processes and methods for critical understandings of textile-forms through questioning what materials, textiles, and form are.

  • 19.
    Walters, Kathryn
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Twist-box2022Konstnärlig output (Granskad)
    Abstract [en]

    The Twist-box was designed to develop and showcase the suture structure at its fold-lines. This weave structure enables two wovenlayers to unfold and refold flat. The design process leading to this artifact included tests exploring variations of the suture structure, before a paper model of the box was produced, and a number of woven iterations were produced. Each iteration was examined for flaws, and thus informed the next iteration, which crept closer to the ideal of the paper model. Thus the design process for the Twist-box was a hylomorphic one (Ingold, 2010). Its complex weave structures lead to a simple geometric form, and each development was a narrowing of possibility.

    Exhibited in Drafts:3. Curators Jane Tepe, Faseeh Saleem, Vidmina Stasiulyte, Berit Greinke.

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