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Water and wind resistant wool fabric: Weaving with Gotlandic Swedish semi-worsted yarns
University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
2025 (English)Independent thesis Advanced level (degree of Master (Two Years)), 20 credits / 30 HE creditsStudent thesis
Abstract [en]

The starting point for this study was to utilise the Gotlandic female sheep wool, a by-product of the meat industry and a wasted resource within Sweden. The aim was to create an application for this wool fibre utilising its inherent course and shiny properties. The Gotlandic sheep’s wool protects the animal from the elements and could possibly do the same for humans. Utilising this often-discarded fibre could increase resource efficiency and reduce the need for virgin merino wool, synthetics and chemicals in the outdoor industry. Scandinavian consumers rely on the outdoor industry to produce protective outer layers to shield themselves from rain and wind, but most of these products are made of synthetic fibres and are often coated with harmful chemicals, such as PFAS. For this master thesis, dense wool fabrics have been woven using semi-worsted wool yarn containing only Gotlandic wool fibres. Four fabric samples were produced with varying production parameters, such as weaving structure, weft yarn and decatising. This study investigated the impact these production parameters had on a fabric´s water and wind resistance properties. The weaving structures used were Twill 2/1 and Twill 2/2 in combination of double single and plied weft yarn. The fabric samples were washed and decatised. Additional measurements such as yarn count and twist were performed. The characteristics were analysed on grey (un-washed), washed and decatised fabrics, to see how they changed during the processing steps. Characteristics such as fabric weight (𝑔 𝑚2 ⁄ ), thickness (mm), bending stiffness (g × cm), warp and weft thread count (threads/cm) and shrinkage (%) were documented. Water and wind resistance was measured on both washed and decatised fabrics using the standardised test methods: ISO 4920:2012 Textile fabrics - Determination of resistance to surface wetting (spray test) and ISO 9237:1995 Textiles - Determination of permeability of fabrics to air. The outcome is four types of heavyweight fabrics suitable for outerwear. The decatising process was deemed as necessary to produce a finished fabric. Twill 2/1 is considered finished, while Twill 2/2 needs adjustments in the decatisation process. The results for surface wetting were spray ratings of ISO 2 and ISO 3, thereby offering medium level of rain protection. When testing water resistance there was no significant difference between the samples, meaning the type of weaving structure, weft yarn or decatising did not play a part in increasing or reducing water resistance. In contrast, for wind resistance the samples showcased different results. A level of air permeability on the decatised samples resulted in 182,1 mm/s to 230,7 mm/s. These fabrics could work for soft-shell applications and act as a complement to the product range of outdoor clothing. Or a substitute to some of our current outerwear during low intensity rain and wind suitable for everyday wear. 

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
2025.
Keywords [en]
water resistant, water resistance, wind resistant, wind resistance, fabric, weave, weaving, semi-worsted yarn, washing, decatising, Swedish wool, Gotlandic wool, female sheep wool, outdoor, outerwear, outer layer.
National Category
Engineering and Technology
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-34277OAI: oai:DiVA.org:hb-34277DiVA, id: diva2:2000202
Available from: 2025-09-23 Created: 2025-09-23 Last updated: 2025-09-24Bibliographically approved

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CiteExportLink to record
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