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Development Of Alternative Leather Materials From Filamentous Fungi Cultivated On Food Waste
University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.ORCID iD: 0000-0002-5897-5535
2026 (English)Doctoral thesis, comprehensive summary (Other academic)
Sustainable development
According to the author(s), the content of this publication falls within the area of sustainable development.
Abstract [en]

Leather, despite being recognised as a symbol of luxury and durability, carries a substantial environmental and ethical footprint. Issues such as greenhouse-gas emissions from livestock farming, harsh chemical usage, work environment safety, and animal welfare have led to growing interest in sustainable alternative leather materials. Fungal-based materials are considered promising alternatives to leather and are gaining interest from both researchers and the public owing to their low environmental impact, and fully vegan nature. Fungi, known as nature’s recyclers, can convert organic waste into valuable biomass, enhancing the environmental sustainability, circularity, and economic potential of vegan leather production.

This thesis developed alternative leather materials using filamentous fungi cultivated on food waste. Unsold bread waste from supermarkets and lemon-peel residues from juice industry were used to prepare substrates for submerged fungal cultivation. In the first approach, Rhizopus delemar was cultivated in a media composed of bread waste, with or without starch hydrolysation. In the second approach, a fungal–fungal co-culture was designed with Rhizopus delemar and Aspergillus oryzae, and cultivation was conducted using a substrate prepared by suspending bread powder in nutrient-rich liquid extracts from lemon peel. All cultivations were scaled up until pilot scale using a 1300 L bubble column bioreactor. The harvested fungal biomass was fractionated, with one fraction subjected to vegetable tanning, while the remaining fraction was alkali-treated to isolate chitin-chitosan rich fungal cell wall material. Solid residues from lemon peel were further processed with alkali treatment and bleaching to purify the cellulose and subsequently treated mechanically to fibrillate the cellulose. Single- layer and multi-layer composite materials were fabricated using the tanned biomass, cell wall material, and fibrillated cellulose via the wet-laid method. The materials were subjected to plasticising post-treatments and finally coated with a biobased binder.

The leather like materials developed in this study showed mechanical properties (up to 20 MPa tensile strength and up to 14.8 % elongation at break) analogous to tensile strength of natural leather (10 – 30 MPa and 20 – 70 % elongation at break). To the best of our knowledge, vegetable tanning of fungal biomass was applied for the first time in this thesis to produce fungal leather materials. This treatment resulted in the stabilisation of fungal proteins, thereby reducing the brittleness of the material after drying. Additionally, a novel co-culture approach was used to obtain hybrid fungal biomass for material production which resulted in enhanced mechanical properties owing to the structural and functional properties of both fungi.

All processes, from fungal cultivation to material production, were scaled up, demonstrating the potential of controlled submerged cultivation and paper production process as a scalable alternative to the commonly used solid-state fermentation approach for fungal leather production. Overall, the results of this thesis highlight the potential of fungal biomass, produced through submerged cultivation, as a sustainable material for leather while promoting waste valorisation and opening new avenues for research into the development of fungal-based materials.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Borås: Högskolan i Borås, 2026.
Series
Skrifter från Högskolan i Borås, ISSN 0280-381X ; 172
Keywords [en]
Fungal leather, Alternative leather materials, Filamentous fungi, Food waste valorisation, Vegetable tannin, Co-cultivation, Submerged cultivation, Wet- laying, Cellulose, Rhizopus delemar, Aspergillus oryzae, Fungal cell wall, Chitin, Chitosan
National Category
Polymer Chemistry
Research subject
Resource Recovery
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-36046ISBN: 978-91-90138-09-0 (print)ISBN: 978-91-90138-10-6 (electronic)OAI: oai:DiVA.org:hb-36046DiVA, id: diva2:2096436
Available from: 2026-10-01 Created: 2026-08-28 Last updated: 2026-10-02Bibliographically approved
List of papers
1. Fungal textile alternatives from bread waste with leather-like properties
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Fungal textile alternatives from bread waste with leather-like properties
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2021 (English)In: Resources, Conservation and Recycling, ISSN 0921-3449, E-ISSN 1879-0658, article id 106041Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Food waste and fashion pollution are two of the most prominent global environmental issues. To alleviate the problems associated with food waste, while simultaneously contributing to sustainable fashion, the feasibility of making an alternative textile material with leather-like properties from fungal biomass cultivated on bread waste was investigated. The filamentous fungus, Rhizopus delemar, was successfully grown on waste bread in a submerged cultivation process, and fungal biomass was treated with vegetable tannin of chestnut wood. NMR and FTIR confirmed interactions between tannin and fungal biomass, while OM, SEM and AFM visualised the changes in the hyphae upon the tannin treatment. Thermal stability was assessed using TGA analysis. The wet-laid technique commonly utilised for paper-making was used to prepare sheets of hyphae. Some of the sheets were treated with glycerol and/or a biobased binder as post-treatment. Overall, three of the produced materials exhibited leather-like properties comparable to that of natural leather. Sheets from untreated biomass with only glycerol post-treatment showed a tensile strength of 7.7 MPa and an elongation at break of 5%. Whereas sheets from untreated biomass and tannin treated biomass with both glycerol and binder treatments led to tensile strengths of 7.1 MPa and 6.9 MPa, and the elongation at break of 12% and 17%, respectively. The enhancement of hydrophobicity after the binder treatment, helped to preserve the absorbed glycerol within the sheet and thereby the flexibility was retained when in contact with moisture. These findings demonstrate that bread waste-derived fungal sheets have great potential as environmentally friendly materials with leather-like properties.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Elsevier, 2021
Keywords
Fungal textiles, Food waste recovery, Filamentous fungi, Tanning, NMR, AFM, TGA
National Category
Polymer Chemistry Industrial Biotechnology
Research subject
Resource Recovery
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-26958 (URN)10.1016/j.resconrec.2021.106041 (DOI)000774321500008 ()2-s2.0-85119499642 (Scopus ID)
Funder
Swedish Foundation for Strategic Research, Bio4EnergyVinnova, 2018–04093European Regional Development Fund (ERDF), TK134
Available from: 2021-11-30 Created: 2021-11-30 Last updated: 2026-09-28Bibliographically approved
2. Multilayer biocomposite vegan leather materials derived from vegetable-tanned fungal biomass cultivated on food waste
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Multilayer biocomposite vegan leather materials derived from vegetable-tanned fungal biomass cultivated on food waste
2025 (English)In: Scientific Reports, E-ISSN 2045-2322, Vol. 15, no 1, article id 15366Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Despite being considered a premium material, leather poses both environmental and ethical issues. Thus, sustainable alternatives such as vegan leather are in high demand. Therefore, in this study, we aimed to produce vegan leather using vegetable tannins and fungi grown on bread waste. Fungal cultivation was carried out in a bubble column bioreactor using nutrients extracted from bread as substrate. To obtain tanned biomass, the biomass was subjected to vegetable tanning (using Tara, Myrobalan, Chestnut, and Indusol ATO tannins). A mild alkali treatment isolated the fibrous cell wall material from fungal biomass. Different composite sheets were prepared by wet-laying the tanned biomass and cell wall material and placing them in a multilayer arrangement. The composites were post-treated with glycerol and a bio-based binder to improve their mechanical properties. Myrobalan-tanned biomass composites after glycerol and bio-based binder post-treatments had the highest flexibility of 14.8% elongation at break, and Tara-tanned biomass composites had the highest tensile strength of 20.5 MPa. Ashby’s chart demonstrates the relationship between the sheets produced and natural leather. SEM was used to demonstrate the softer and smoother morphologies of the Chestnut and Indusol ATO-tanned composite sheets after post-treatment. Overall, this study presents multilayer fungal biocomposites as a promising vegan alternative leather.

National Category
Materials Chemistry
Research subject
Resource Recovery
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-33491 (URN)10.1038/s41598-025-98361-w (DOI)001480669100031 ()2-s2.0-105004006551 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2025-05-07 Created: 2025-05-07 Last updated: 2026-09-28Bibliographically approved
3. Hybrid Biomass From Co‐Culturing Filamentous Fungi on Food Waste for Alternative Leather Material Production
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Hybrid Biomass From Co‐Culturing Filamentous Fungi on Food Waste for Alternative Leather Material Production
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2026 (English)In: Microbial Biotechnology, ISSN 1751-7907, E-ISSN 1751-7915, Vol. 19, no 8, article id e70428Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Co-culturing fungi offers a promising strategy for generating hybrid fungal biomass with structural and functional properties for developing fungal-based alternative leather. In this study, two filamentous fungi, Aspergillus oryzae and Rhizopus delemar, were co-cultured to valorise food waste through production of fungal materials with enhanced mechanical properties owing to chitin-rich biomass of A. oryzae and chitin-chitosan-rich biomass of R. delemar. After confirming symbiotic growth on solid media and in submerged semi-synthetic media, the system was applied to a complex medium prepared from bread and lemon waste. Cultivation was scaled up to a 4.5 L bubble-column bioreactor. The harvested biomass was tanned with chestnut tannin and processed into materials using wet-laid method. Symbiotic growth was verified by polymerase chain reaction (PCR) amplification and visually via optical and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). Unlike the pelletised morphology typical of A. oryzae, the co-culture produced dispersed mycelium favouring material formation. Co-cultures yielded higher ethanol concentrations (12–14 g/L), with biomass yields exceeding those of R. delemar (~0.2 g/g) and comparable to A. oryzae (~0.3 g/g) monocultures. The highest tensile strength and elongation achieved were 11.7 MPa and 8% respectively. Overall, this work establishes fungal-fungal co-culture as a transformative approach for producing hybrid biomass for fungal-based leather alternatives.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
John Wiley & Sons, 2026
Keywords
Aspergillus oryzae, fungal co-culture, fungal leather, hybrid biomass, Rhizopus delemar, textile materials, vegetable tanning
National Category
Bio Materials
Research subject
Resource Recovery
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-36022 (URN)10.1111/1751-7915.70428 (DOI)001843741000001 ()42568248 (PubMedID)2-s2.0-105046725145 (Scopus ID)
Funder
Swedish Research Council Formas, 2024‐01043
Available from: 2026-08-17 Created: 2026-08-17 Last updated: 2026-09-28Bibliographically approved
4. Large scale composite material production from fungal biomass and nano fibrillated cellulose
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(English)Manuscript (preprint) (Other academic)
National Category
Composite Science and Engineering Bio Materials
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-36262 (URN)
Available from: 2026-09-28 Created: 2026-09-28 Last updated: 2026-09-28

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Wijayarathna, E.R. Kanishka B.

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