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Weaving sequential changes: designing textiles with multiple embedded stages
University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.ORCID iD: 0000-0003-1589-4118
2021 (English)In: DESIGN CULTURE(S): Cumulus Conference Proceedings Roma 2021. Volume #2 / [ed] Di Lucchio L., Imbesi, L., Giambattista, A. & Malakuczi, V., Aalto: Aalto University , 2021, Vol. 2, p. 1873-1890Conference paper, Published paper (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

The development of dynamic materials has changed the ways in which textiles are designed, but few research projects have investigated multiple sequential changes in textiles. This paper explores the design of textiles with the ability to undergo transformations involving multiple stages. Dynamic shrinking, hardening and dissolving yarns were combined in industrially woven structures to create a collection of five textiles, the texture, size, thickness, and number of layers of which were possible to change through heat and moisture. The fabrics were used in two workshops, and a series of prototypes was developed to explore potential application areas. The outcomes of the experiments show that textiles can transform in several stages through alterations to their properties, and that it is possible to embed this in their structures. Further research is needed on potential applications and how to better integrate textiles into product design processes.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Aalto: Aalto University , 2021. Vol. 2, p. 1873-1890
Series
Cumulus Conference Proceedings Series, ISSN 2490-046X ; 7
Keywords [en]
weaving, material, dynamic, lifespan, textile design
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-27282ISBN: 978-952-64-9004-5 (print)OAI: oai:DiVA.org:hb-27282DiVA, id: diva2:1628194
Conference
Cumulus conference 2021, Rome, Italy, 8-11 June, 2021
Available from: 2022-01-14 Created: 2022-01-14 Last updated: 2022-04-19Bibliographically approved
In thesis
1. Designing for changeability in textiles
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Designing for changeability in textiles
2022 (English)Doctoral thesis, comprehensive summary (Other academic) [Artistic work]
Abstract [en]

The tendency to wear out and change is inherent in most materials, yet textiles are usually designed to retain a single expression. Within an experimental, practical work, materials that are inherently changeable were used to create woven and knitted structures in order to approach textiles from the perspective of changeability and explore what this might mean for the field of textile design. This was undertaken in order to improve our understanding of what designing textiles that change over time means for the practice of designing textiles.

The experiments explored changes in colour, texture, and structure within single textiles, and used textural changes to create form based on three variables: material, textile structure, and the stimuli textiles were exposed to. Further experiments explored the potential applications of these textiles in the context of fashion and interiors. The outcomes of the experiments showed that how materials are treated and used influences a textile’s expression and properties and how these change over time. 

The research presented in this thesis suggests an alternative way of perceiving and designing textiles: as things that are changeable. The changes in the properties, expressions, aesthetics, and uses of textiles could be embedded during the design process through three interconnected variables: time, change, and context of use. This further suggests an alternative conception of quality for textiles which is based on the aesthetics of change, in terms of when, how, and as a result of what a textile changes. Such a perspective could even encourage an increased acceptance of changes occurring in textiles, and help to re-establish a connection between people, the textiles that surround them, and the materials that textiles are made of.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Borås: Högskolan i Borås, 2022. p. 393
Series
University of Borås studies in artistic research ; 41
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-27656 (URN)978-91-89271-62-3 (ISBN)978-91-89271-63-0 (ISBN)
Public defence
2022-05-18, Borås, 13:00 (English)
Supervisors
Available from: 2022-04-25 Created: 2022-03-17 Last updated: 2022-04-20Bibliographically approved

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