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Weaving Futures: Adopting alternative postures to develop new methods for the construction of textile-forms in the context of micro-manufacturing.
Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.ORCID-id: 0000-0002-3210-1696
2019 (Engelska)Konferensbidrag, Publicerat paper (Refereegranskat)
Hållbar utveckling
Verkets författare anser att innehållet i publikationen faller inom ämnet hållbar utveckling.
Abstract [en]

The aim of this research is to adopt a transition design “posture” of zero waste system design to develop processes for garment manufacturing. It seeks to uncover approaches and methods which are viable in the context of Manzini’s Cosmopolitan Localism – aiming to pair digital distribution with flexible local manufacture and micro-factories – utilising technology in alternative ways and propose new methods for whole garment weaving. Makerspaces and Fab-Labs have traditionally been the domain of hard materials, while forays into soft materials have explored the use of laser-cut textiles, 'smart' electronic textiles, 3D printing of wearables, and the cultivation of bio-plastics. Options available for automated manufacture of entire garments and textile-based forms are limited to whole-garment or fully-fashioned knitting – weaving has been mostly missing from this discourse. Conventionally, weaving is a two-dimensional practice – which through cutting and sewing may become form. Cut-and-sew is the most common method of garment construction used in industry; however, it is also exploitative, time-consuming and wasteful. The current shallow understanding of the relationship between woven textiles and form limits how designers could transform industries and the built environment. This research questions how technology can further shape formmaking – what if we treat the jacquard loom as a tool to enable a kind of 3D printing with yarn? It follows some of the lines of design inquiry forged by the work of Issey Miyake and Dai Fujiwara in A-POC, and recent explorations on digital whole garment weaving by Anna Piper, Jacqueline Lefferts, Linda Dekhla, and Claire Harvey and colleagues. This research undertook a series of experiments which aims to expand the design methods available for whole garment weaving in the context of zero waste system design. This paper presents three experiments using a variety of prototyping methods to deepen understanding of the complex 'reverse origami', or 'flattening', methods required and are intended to test the processes in specific contexts. This multimorphic and analogue-digital craft practice develops new understandings of conventional textile design and manufacturing elements, such as jacquard looms and weave structures, for use in micro-manufacturing contexts. This holistic and disruptive reshaping of form-making has the potential to future-make the industry, our cities and our social fabric.

Ort, förlag, år, upplaga, sidor
Plymouth, 2019.
Serie
Making Futures
Nyckelord [en]
Transition design, Micro-factory, Weaving, Textile-form, Waste, Fashion design
Nationell ämneskategori
Design
Forskningsämne
Textil och mode (konstnärlig)
Identifikatorer
URN: urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-24390OAI: oai:DiVA.org:hb-24390DiVA, id: diva2:1508315
Konferens
Making Futures: 2020 International Research Conference ‘People, Place, Meaning: Crafting Social Worlds & Social Making’, Plymouth, 19-20 September, 2019.
Tillgänglig från: 2020-12-10 Skapad: 2020-12-10 Senast uppdaterad: 2024-01-10Bibliografiskt granskad
Ingår i avhandling
1. Zero Waste Systems Thinking: Multimorphic Textile-Forms
Öppna denna publikation i ny flik eller fönster >>Zero Waste Systems Thinking: Multimorphic Textile-Forms
2020 (Engelska)Doktorsavhandling, sammanläggning (Övrigt vetenskapligt) [Forskning på konstnärlig grund]
Abstract [en]

Zero Waste System Thinking: Multimorphic Textile-Forms is situated in the context of the rapidly unfolding environmental crisis and the dominant response to this in the industry - the circular economy. It began by building on existing knowledge around sustainable fashion and textiles, and zero waste design practice. The research program is constructed from three interconnected theories: transition design; post-anthropocentric design; and design as future-making. It adopts a transition design “posture” of holistic zero waste system design to develop processes for garment design and manufacturing.

Zero Waste Systems Thinking: Multimorphic Textile-Forms explores the theoretical, aesthetic and technical development of systems and methods for zero waste textile-forms. It presents a range of experimental field tests, as well as interviews and design experiments using a variety of prototyping methods to deepen understanding of the existing context, and to propose methods and theory for a new understanding of the relationship between designer and system, textile and form. Outside of fully fashioned or 3D knitting, methods for simultaneous textile-form design and construction are limited. Conventionally, weaving is a two-dimensional practice – which through cutting and sewing may become form. Cut-and-sew is the most common method of garment construction used in industry; however, it can also be exploitative, time-consuming and wasteful. The current shallow understanding of the relationship between woven textiles and form limits how designers could transform industries and the built environment. This research questions how technology can further shape form-making, and follows some of the lines of inquiry forged by the work of Issey Miyake and Dai Fujiwara in A-POC, and recent explorations on whole garment weaving by Anna Piper, Jacqueline Lefferts, and Claire Harvey. This research undertook a series of experiments which aimed to expand the form-design methods available for whole garment weaving in the context of zero waste system design. The multimorphic and analogue-digital craft practice develops new understandings of textile design and manufacturing elements, such as jacquard looms and weave structures, for use in micro-manufacturing contexts. Its holistic and disruptive reshaping of form-making has the potential to future-make the industry, our cities and our social fabric.

Ort, förlag, år, upplaga, sidor
Borås: Högskolan i Borås, 2020
Serie
University of Borås studies in artistic research ; 37
Nationell ämneskategori
Design
Forskningsämne
Textil och mode (konstnärlig)
Identifikatorer
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-23961 (URN)978-91-89271-05-0 (ISBN)978-91-89271-06-7 (ISBN)
Disputation
2021-01-21, M404, Borås, 13:00
Opponent
Anmärkning

Doctoral seminar will be held online at:https://hb-se.zoom.us/j/68071176889

Tillgänglig från: 2020-12-10 Skapad: 2020-10-21 Senast uppdaterad: 2020-12-10Bibliografiskt granskad

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https://makingfutures.aup.ac.uk/journal-2019/holly-mcquillan

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McQuillan, Holly

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McQuillan, Holly
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Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi
Design

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