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Weaving Form, Forming Weave: Submitted as an exhibition proposal under the track ‘Critical Textiles’
Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi. (Design)ORCID-id: 0000-0002-2724-1395
Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi. (Design)
2019 (Engelska)Konstnärlig output (Granskad)
Hållbar utveckling
Verkets författare anser att innehållet i publikationen faller inom ämnet hållbar utveckling.
Fysisk beskrivning [en]

Verbal presentation of exhibition consisting of artefacts in glass, woven textiles, digital and analogue photographs.

Abstract [en]

The traditional method of cut and assemble in garment making is accused of disregarding the importance of the materiality of textiles, and the three dimensionality of our body. Our joint venture aims to address this gap by investigating the expressive possibilities of woven textiles with inherent form-giving qualities in conjunction with garment moulds, similar to Miyake’s self-forming weaves (Howarth 2014) and Brown’s ideas on the relationship between form and surface (Brown 2013). Changes in texture, size and shape of the textile and the placement of openings for limbs inform the shape of the mould and the placement of the textile on the mould. 

Likewise, the form of the mould informs the shape of the garment through the textile’s ability for change. This allows for close communication between textile and form as both are developed in conjunction, from initial sketch through to final garment. The moulds are obtained using a method of ‘reversed crafting’, mimicking processes found in glass and ceramics where the space between body is addressed whilst treating form giving and crafting of surfaces as a simultaneous act of doing and thinking. Formability is embedded in Jacquard woven multi-layered fabrics through combining heat reactive shrinking yarns with stable base materials. Stops and seams are added in the fabric while weaving, creating a raw shape for the garment. 

The results are presented as 4-6 form experiments in scale 1:4, arrived at in collaboration with material, body and digital and analogue tools. Process images illustrate the relationship between the weave and the mould in the form giving processes of dress. Together, we suggest a renewed focus on the tangible materiality of textiles when forming garments in interplay with the three dimensional form. Further, the work proposes alternative methods for design making and thinking at the intersection of textile and fashion design.

Ort, förlag, år, sidor
2019.
Nyckelord [en]
weaving form, form-giving, changeable textiles, reversed crafting, alternative method
Nationell ämneskategori
Humaniora och konst
Forskningsämne
Textil och mode (konstnärlig)
Identifikatorer
URN: urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-22516OAI: oai:DiVA.org:hb-22516DiVA, id: diva2:1386353
Tillgänglig från: 2020-01-17 Skapad: 2020-01-17 Senast uppdaterad: 2022-04-19Bibliografiskt granskad
Ingår i avhandling
1. Designing for changeability in textiles
Öppna denna publikation i ny flik eller fönster >>Designing for changeability in textiles
2022 (Engelska)Doktorsavhandling, sammanläggning (Övrigt vetenskapligt) [Forskning på konstnärlig grund]
Abstract [en]

The tendency to wear out and change is inherent in most materials, yet textiles are usually designed to retain a single expression. Within an experimental, practical work, materials that are inherently changeable were used to create woven and knitted structures in order to approach textiles from the perspective of changeability and explore what this might mean for the field of textile design. This was undertaken in order to improve our understanding of what designing textiles that change over time means for the practice of designing textiles.

The experiments explored changes in colour, texture, and structure within single textiles, and used textural changes to create form based on three variables: material, textile structure, and the stimuli textiles were exposed to. Further experiments explored the potential applications of these textiles in the context of fashion and interiors. The outcomes of the experiments showed that how materials are treated and used influences a textile’s expression and properties and how these change over time. 

The research presented in this thesis suggests an alternative way of perceiving and designing textiles: as things that are changeable. The changes in the properties, expressions, aesthetics, and uses of textiles could be embedded during the design process through three interconnected variables: time, change, and context of use. This further suggests an alternative conception of quality for textiles which is based on the aesthetics of change, in terms of when, how, and as a result of what a textile changes. Such a perspective could even encourage an increased acceptance of changes occurring in textiles, and help to re-establish a connection between people, the textiles that surround them, and the materials that textiles are made of.

Ort, förlag, år, upplaga, sidor
Borås: Högskolan i Borås, 2022. s. 393
Serie
University of Borås studies in artistic research ; 41
Nationell ämneskategori
Design
Forskningsämne
Textil och mode (konstnärlig)
Identifikatorer
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-27656 (URN)978-91-89271-62-3 (ISBN)978-91-89271-63-0 (ISBN)
Disputation
2022-05-18, Borås, 13:00 (Engelska)
Handledare
Tillgänglig från: 2022-04-25 Skapad: 2022-03-17 Senast uppdaterad: 2022-04-20Bibliografiskt granskad

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Peterson, KarinTalman, Riikka

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