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Mind-Body-Garment-Cloth
University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.ORCID iD: 0000-0002-3210-1696
Parsons School of Design.
2020 (English)In: Crafting Anatomies: The Body as Site in Fashion and Textile Research Practice / [ed] Katherine Townsend, Rhian Solomon, Amanda Briggs-Goode, Bloomsbury Academic, 2020Chapter in book (Refereed) [Artistic work]
Sustainable development
The content falls within the scope of Sustainable Development
Abstract [en]

As our understanding of fashion and sustainability broadens beyond quantified accounts of supply chains and material use, the fashion system requires an expanded, holistic understanding of the fabricated body and mind, and how design may contribute to their formation. In this chapter we weave connections between mind, body, garment and cloth, beginning with our practice in zero waste fashion design, in relation to industry and user. We then examine these ideas in relation to radical craft practitioners such as the Friends of Light collective and Yoshiyuki Minami of Manonik, both of whom employ hand-weaving to create three-dimensional garments with minimal waste, while intentionally and explicitly giving value to the meditative aspect of the ancient yet modern craft. We contrast these practices with those of avant garde fashion designers Rickard Lindqvist of Atacac and Gabi Asfour of Threeasfour, whose garments may produce fabric waste but whose practices seem to be underpinned by a holistic embracing of the body in their designed garments. The chapter asks questions about the presence and absence of mind-body connections in contemporary fashion design practice, and the roles of technology, weaving and cutting, framed as crafts, in facilitating these connections.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Bloomsbury Academic, 2020.
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-13915ISBN: 9781350075474 (print)OAI: oai:DiVA.org:hb-13915DiVA, id: diva2:1316586
Available from: 2019-05-20 Created: 2019-05-20 Last updated: 2020-12-10Bibliographically approved
In thesis
1. Zero Waste Systems Thinking: Multimorphic Textile-Forms
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Zero Waste Systems Thinking: Multimorphic Textile-Forms
2020 (English)Doctoral thesis, comprehensive summary (Other academic) [Artistic work]
Abstract [en]

Zero Waste System Thinking: Multimorphic Textile-Forms is situated in the context of the rapidly unfolding environmental crisis and the dominant response to this in the industry - the circular economy. It began by building on existing knowledge around sustainable fashion and textiles, and zero waste design practice. The research program is constructed from three interconnected theories: transition design; post-anthropocentric design; and design as future-making. It adopts a transition design “posture” of holistic zero waste system design to develop processes for garment design and manufacturing.

Zero Waste Systems Thinking: Multimorphic Textile-Forms explores the theoretical, aesthetic and technical development of systems and methods for zero waste textile-forms. It presents a range of experimental field tests, as well as interviews and design experiments using a variety of prototyping methods to deepen understanding of the existing context, and to propose methods and theory for a new understanding of the relationship between designer and system, textile and form. Outside of fully fashioned or 3D knitting, methods for simultaneous textile-form design and construction are limited. Conventionally, weaving is a two-dimensional practice – which through cutting and sewing may become form. Cut-and-sew is the most common method of garment construction used in industry; however, it can also be exploitative, time-consuming and wasteful. The current shallow understanding of the relationship between woven textiles and form limits how designers could transform industries and the built environment. This research questions how technology can further shape form-making, and follows some of the lines of inquiry forged by the work of Issey Miyake and Dai Fujiwara in A-POC, and recent explorations on whole garment weaving by Anna Piper, Jacqueline Lefferts, and Claire Harvey. This research undertook a series of experiments which aimed to expand the form-design methods available for whole garment weaving in the context of zero waste system design. The multimorphic and analogue-digital craft practice develops new understandings of textile design and manufacturing elements, such as jacquard looms and weave structures, for use in micro-manufacturing contexts. Its holistic and disruptive reshaping of form-making has the potential to future-make the industry, our cities and our social fabric.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Borås: Högskolan i Borås, 2020
Series
University of Borås studies in artistic research ; 37
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-23961 (URN)978-91-89271-05-0 (ISBN)978-91-89271-06-7 (ISBN)
Public defence
2021-01-21, M404, Borås, 13:00
Opponent
Note

Doctoral seminar will be held online at:https://hb-se.zoom.us/j/68071176889

Available from: 2020-12-10 Created: 2020-10-21 Last updated: 2020-12-10Bibliographically approved

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McQuillan, Holly

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