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  • 51.
    Lund, Anja
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Bazooyar, Faranak
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Wand, Charlie
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Bolton, Kim
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Inducing piezoelectric beta-phase in PVDF for fibre- and printed sensors2015Konferensbidrag (Övrigt vetenskapligt)
  • 52.
    Lund, Anja
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Melvinsson, Rebecca
    Malm, Veronica
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Wand, Charlie
    The University of Manchester · School of Chemical Engineering and Analytical Science.
    Tahir, Mohammad Waseem
    Högskolan i Skövde.
    Skrifvars, Mikael
    Stigh, Ulf
    Högskolan i Skövde.
    Bolton, Kim
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Melt Spun PVDF Actuator Fibres: the Effect of Spin-Line Orientation and MW on Actuation2015Ingår i: Regional Conference Polymer Processing Society Graz 2015: Book of Abstracts, 2015, s. 306-Konferensbidrag (Övrigt vetenskapligt)
    Abstract [en]

    This paper presents the melt spinning and characterisation of polymer actuator fibres; fibres that reversibly contract along the fibre axis in response to heat. Recently, Haines et al (1) showed that low-cost filaments, e.g. fishing lines, can be relevant precursors for artificial muscles. They demonstrated a reversible fibre-direction thermal contraction, which was significantly amplified when the fibres were twisted and coiled. The effect was explained to result from an increase in the conformational entropy of the amorphous phase. In earlier studies on negative thermal expansion in anisotropic polymer structures, it has been shown that the negative thermal expansion in oriented highly crystalline polymers approaches values typical of polymer crystals (2).

     

    To further investigate the mechanisms behind these seemingly simple artificial muscles, we have melt spun fibres from poly(vinylidene fluoride) (PVDF) – Solef  1006 and 1008 kindly provided by Solvay (Milan, Italy) – and compared their properties to a commercially available PVDF-fishing line. The fibres were characterised with respect to their thermal actuation properties, crystal morphology and degree of orientation along the spin-line axis.

     

    We have further done modelling on the molecular and macroscopic levels examining the possible mechanisms of negative thermal expansion in semi-crystalline PVDF. We believe that tie molecules (a polymer chain linking two crystalline regions) are the predominant factor influencing actuation. Two mechanisms are considered: an entropic effect and a conformational change effect. The entropic effect causes an increase in the elastic stiffness with an increase in temperature, effectively resulting in a contraction of a strained fibre. The conformational change effect is also expected to contribute to contraction as tie molecules, under strain, revert to their unloaded preferred conformation when heated.

    1. C. S. Haines et al., Artificial Muscles from Fishing Line and Sewing Thread. Science 343, 868-872 (2014).
    2. C. L. Choy et al., Negative Thermal Expansion in Oriented Crystalline Polymers. Journal of Polymer Science: Polymer Physics Edition 19, 335-352 (1981).
  • 53.
    Malm, Veronica
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Seoane, Fernando
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Fused deposition modelling – Towards 3D printed electrodes on fabric for surface electromyography (sEMG)2018Konferensbidrag (Övrigt vetenskapligt)
    Abstract [en]

    Surface electromyography (sEMG) monitoring has promising applications within the field of human robot communication where wearable electrodes are used as the interface. This research investigates the production of flexible 3D printed electrodes using electrically conductive filaments, of thermoplastic polyurethane containing carbon black, and polyester fabric as substrate. Dry 3D printed electrodes of varying thickness, due to increased number of layers, were compared to conventional electrolytic gel electrodes. Initial tests show that the volume resistivity of 3D printed electrodes increased with increased number of layers. This because, with increased number of layers the diffusion between layers deteriorates and hinders conductive particle connections. Additional heat-treatments using hot press plates to improve diffusion between layers were promising as volume resistivity decreased with 200 % for all samples. As a first step to evaluate the 3D printed electrodes, skin-electrode impedance measurements were performed, and compared with measurements of conventional electrodes. Results showed that resistance and reactance versus frequency curves had similar trending slopes, decreasing with increasing frequency. However, this corresponded only between the thinnest (200 μm) 3D-printed dry electrode having a volume resistivity of 6.2 Ω cm and the conventional gel electrode. Future studies regarding the influence of platform and extruder temperature are planned for, focusing on improved diffusion between layers and increased conduction for proper electron transfer. 

  • 54.
    Maziz, Ali
    et al.
    Linköping University.
    Concas, Alessandro
    Linköping University.
    Stålhand, Jonas
    Linköping University.
    Persson, Nils-Krister
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Jager, Edwin WH
    Linköping University.
    Knitting and weaving artificial muscles2017Ingår i: Science Advances, E-ISSN 2375-2548, Vol. 3, nr 1Artikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    A need exists for artificial muscles that are silent, soft, and compliant, with performance characteristics similar to those of skeletal muscle, enabling natural interaction of assistive devices with humans. By combining one of humankind’s oldest technologies, textile processing, with electroactive polymers, we demonstrate here the feasibility of wearable, soft artificial muscles made by weaving and knitting, with tunable force and strain. These textile actuators were produced from cellulose yarns assembled into fabrics and coated with conducting polymers using a metal-free deposition. To increase the output force, we assembled yarns in parallel by weaving. The force scaled linearly with the number of yarns in the woven fabric. To amplify the strain, we knitted a stretchable fabric, exhibiting a 53-fold increase in strain. In addition, the textile construction added mechanical stability to the actuators. Textile processing permits scalable and rational production of wearable artificial muscles, and enables novel ways to design assistive devices.

  • 55.
    Morshed, Mohammad Neaz
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi. University of Boras.
    Bouazizi, Nabil
    Behary, Nemeshwaree
    Guan, Jinping
    College of Textile and Clothing Engineering, Soochow University.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Stabilization of zero valent iron (Fe0) on plasma/dendrimer functionalizedpolyester fabrics for Fenton-like removal of hazardous water pollutants2019Ingår i: Chemical Engineering Journal, ISSN 1385-8947, Vol. 374, s. 658-673Artikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    This study reports the synthesis, immobilization and stabilization of multiscale zero valent iron (Fe0=ZVI)particles on fibrous polyester (PET) nonwoven membrane for heterogeneous Fenton-like removal of hazardouspollutants in water. Activation of PET fiber surface by air atmospheric plasma with or without a consecutivegrafting of hyperbranched poly-(ethylene glycol)-pseudo generation 5 dendrimer having hydroxyl (-OH) endgroup functionality created polar reactive functional groups allowing immobilization and stabilization of ZVIparticles. Synthesis of ZVI was carried out through chemical reduction of ferric ions, either through a single stepin-situ, or a two-step ex-situ reduction-immobilization method. The nonwovens were characterized usingwettability, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), optical microscopy, scanning electron microscopy(SEM), X-ray energy-dispersive spectroscopy (EDS), X-ray diffraction (XRD) and thermo-gravimetric analysis(TGA). Results confirmed the formation and immobilization of nano to sub-micronic multi-scale ZVI particles.The particle size, distribution and stability of ZVI were found to be influenced by the methods of ZVI synthesisand PET surface activation used. The ZVI particles initially formed, quasi-instantaneously turned to yellowishbrown indicating the formation of oxide layer, except in the case of dendrimer grafted PET, where higher content(22.30%) and stability of ZVI was detected. All ZVI immobilized nonwovens exhibited high effectiveness towardsFenton-like degradation of malachite green dye (20 ppm), with fastest color removal (98% in 20 min) achievedby dendrimer/ex-situ nonwoven. This nonwoven could be used up to eight repeated cycles providing low TDS (52 ppm) and high COD reduction (66.23%). Combined use of eco-friendly plasma and dendrimer grafting,provides efficient fibrous textile base heterogeneous catalysis.

  • 56.
    Morshed, Mohammad Neaz
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Bouazizi, Nabil
    Behary, Nemeshwaree
    Vieillard, Julien
    Thoumire, Olivier
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Azzouz, Abdelkrim
    Iron-loaded amine/thiol functionalized polyester fibers with high catalyticactivities: Comparative study2019Ingår i: Dalton Transactions, ISSN 1477-9226, E-ISSN 1477-9234Artikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    Dispersion of iron nanoparticles (Fe-NPs) was achieved on polyester fabrics (PET) beforeand after incorporation of dendrimers (PAMAN), 3-(aminopropyl) triethoxysilane (APTES) orthioglycerol (SH). The catalytic activity of the resulting materials (PET-Fe, PET-PAMAM-Fe,PET-APTES-Fe and PET-SH-FE) was comparatively investigated in the degradation of 4-nitrophenol(4-NP) and methylene-blue (MB. Full characterization through diverse instrumentalmethods allowed correlating the type of the organic moiety incorporated to the Fe content,catalytic properties and stability. The highest 4-NP degradation yield reached 99.6 % in 12 minsfor PET-SH-Fe. The catalytic activity was explained in terms of reactant interaction with Fe-NPs. The 1st order reaction kinetics and pseudo-1st order adsorption kinetics provide evidenceof the key-role of reactant adsorption. These findings allow envisaging the preparation of fiberbasedcatalysts for potential uses in environmental and green chemistry.

  • 57.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Enzymatic Processing of Textiles2015Konferensbidrag (Övrig (populärvetenskap, debatt, mm))
  • 58.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Resource effective textile processes2016Ingår i: ISC Liuzhou September 8-10, 2016, China, 2016Konferensbidrag (Refereegranskat)
  • 59.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Dural-Erem, Aysin
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Functionalization of textiles with probiotic spores2017Ingår i: Dornbirn MFC, 2017, s. 15-Konferensbidrag (Refereegranskat)
  • 60.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Johansson, Mats
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Niit, Ellinor
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Tadesse Abate, Molla
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Functionalization of textiles in supercritical CO22016Ingår i: 55th Man Made Fiber Conference / Dornbirn MFC, 2016Konferensbidrag (Refereegranskat)
  • 61.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Tadesse, Melkie Getnet
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Harpa, Rodica
    Gheorghe Asachi Technical University of Iasi, Faculty of Textiles.
    Loghin, Carmen
    Gheorghe Asachi Technical University of Iasi, Faculty of Textiles.
    Chen, Yan
    Soochow University, College of Textile and Clothing Engineering.
    Wang, Lichuan
    Soochow University, College of Textile and Clothing Engineering.
    SUBJECTIVE EVALUATION OF FUNCTIONAL TEXTILE FABRICS2017Ingår i: ITMC2017 - International Conference on Intelligent Textiles and Mass Customization, 2017, s. 1-2Konferensbidrag (Refereegranskat)
  • 62.
    Nilsson, Linnéa
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Satomi, Mika
    Vallgårda, Anna
    Worbin, Linda
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Understanding the complexity of designing dynamic textile patterns2011Ingår i: Proceedings of the Ambience conference, Borås, Sweden, 2011, s. 28-30Konferensbidrag (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    Through a smart textile design project we have identified two sets of complex issues generally relevant for design with state changing materials. Specifically, we show how the temporal dimension of smart textiles increase the complexity of traditional textile design variables such as form and colour. We also show how the composite nature of smart textiles creates a series of interdependencies that make the design of the textile expressions additionally complex. We discuss how these forms of complexity provide opportunities as well as challenges for the textile expressions, and we show how we dealt with them in practice.

  • 63.
    Paras, Manoj Kumar
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Curteza, A.
    Gheorghe Asachi Technical University of Iasi, Romania.
    Pal, Rudrajeet
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    A state-of-the-art Literature Review of Upcycling: A Clothing Industry Perspective2016Ingår i: CORTEP 2016 - Book of Abstracts: 16th Romanian Textiles and Leather Conference / [ed] Avadanei Manuela, Bucharest: Editura Acreditata de Cncsis Bucuresti , 2016, s. 121-Konferensbidrag (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    Aim: The purpose of this study is to review and appreciate the developments in the literature of upcycling domain; (i) To comprehend the concept of upcycling and subsequently, understanding the difference among the prominent terminologies used in the literature (ii) To identify application of upcycling across various industries; (iii) To propose a framework of upcycling practices for clothing industries based on the insights.

     Methodology: A scientific literature review procedure proposed by Mayring (2002) was adopted to select and screen the paper which comprised of four steps; (i) Material collection: The collection of material is well defined and delimited based on the profiling approach. Each paper is defined as unit of analysis; (ii) Descriptive analysis: Different criteria are set to analyze collected materials. These are publication year, journal, methodology and author affiliations; (iii) Category selection: To do analysis different categories have been identified. Further those categories were divided into sub-categories; (iv) Material evaluation: According to above mentioned categorization, research papers are analyzed and interpreted to form a conceptual framework.

     Result: The paper has identified terminologies and definitions used in the literature. Recycling may be considered as  the use of the material properties (e.g. as a fire retardant non-woven material in a mattress spring cover) (Morley, Bartlett et al. 2009). Down-cycling may be conceptualized as making an inferior product or broken down into raw material. However, several scholars proposed various definitions of upcycling. The prominent may include: (i) Value/quality of product is improved by making superior product. (Dervojeda, Verzijl et al. 2014); (ii) Giving new value to materials that are either discarded, or are not being used anymore" (Fletcher and Grose 2012); (iii) repurposing lower-value items such as a neck scarf to construct a higher-value end use item, such as a wrap skirt or halter top (Janigo and Wu 2015). The results indicated that designing may be considered as one of the important steps in upcycling process. The process of redesigning consists of ideation, reconstruction and fitting. The limitation of redesigning is variability in size and pattern. This can be overcome by; craftsmanship, time, innovation, provenance, desire, narrative.

     Conclusion: The extant literature revealed that no study so far has attempted to summarize the literature in upcylcing area. Thus, this could be seen as a significant and unique contribution to the literature. Further, the bibliography and insights provided in the study may be used by future scholars as a ready reference for their research.

  • 64.
    Persson, Anders
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Björquist, Stina
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Aronsson, Julia
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Henriksson, Gunnar
    re:newcell AB.
    Textile qualities of regenerated cellulose fibers from cotton waste pulp2017Ingår i: Textile research journal, ISSN 0040-5175, E-ISSN 1746-7748Artikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    Cotton is not the answer to meet the rapidly growing demand for textile fibers. Wood-based regenerated cellulosefibers are an attractive alternative. Since wood is a candidate to replace fossil raw materials in so many applications of thecircular economy, other sources need investigation. Cotton linters work in the viscose process – can cotton waste beused to make dissolving pulp? We describe the textile qualities of lyocell fibers from (i) pure cotton waste pulp and(ii) blending with conventional dissolving pulp. The staple fibers were tensile tested, yarns spun and tensile tested andknitted, and tested for shrinkage, water and dye sorption, abrasion resistance, fuzzing and pilling, staining and fastness.TENCEL staple fibers and off-the-shelf TENCEL yarn were used as references. The results show that the two studyfibers had tenacity and an E-modulus that exceeded the staple fiber reference. Also, the study yarns were at least as goodas the spun reference yarn and the commercial off-the-shelf yarn in terms of wet tenacity. Single jerseys made from thestudy yarns shrunk less upon laundering, which is surprising since they could absorb at least as much water at acomparable rate as the references. Dyeability, staining and color fastness, durability and pilling tendency showed thatthe two study fiber tricots performed at least as good as the references. This study suggests that cotton waste is apromising candidate for special grade pulp to suit niche regenerated fiber products or to spice up conventional woodbaseddissolving pulp.

  • 65.
    Persson, Anders
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Tanttu, Marjaana
    Aalto University.
    Michud, Anne
    Aalto University.
    Asaadi, Shirin
    Aalto University.
    Ma, Yibo
    Aalto University.
    Netti, Eveliina
    Aalto University.
    Kääriainen, Pirjo
    Aalto University.
    Berntsson, Anders
    Textilmuseet.
    Sixta, Herbert
    Aalto University.
    Hummel, Michael
    Aalto University.
    Ioncell-F: ionic liquid-based cellulosic textile fibers as an alternative to viscose and Lyocell2016Ingår i: Textile research journal, ISSN 0040-5175, E-ISSN 1746-7748, Vol. 86, nr 5, s. 543-552Artikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    Ioncell-F, a recently developed process for the production of man-made cellulosic fibers from ionic liquid solutions by dry-jet wet spinning, is presented as an alternative to the viscose and N-methylmorpholine N-oxide (NMMO)-based Lyocell processes. The ionic liquid 1,5-diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene acetate was identified as excellent cellulose solvent allowing for a rapid dissolution at moderate temperatures and subsequent shaping into continuous filaments. The highly oriented cellulose fibers obtained upon coagulation in cold water exhibited superior tenacity, exceeding that of commercial viscose and NMMO-based Lyocell (Tencel) fibers. The respective staple fibers, which have been converted into two-ply yarn by ring spinning technology, presented very high tenacity. Furthermore, the Ioncell yarn showed very good behavior during the knitting and weaving processes, reflecting the quality of the produced yarn. The successfully knitted and woven garments from the Ioncell yarn demonstrate the suitability of this particular ionic liquid for the production of man-made cellulosic fibers and thus give a promising outlook for the future of the Ioncell-F process.

  • 66. Persson, Maria
    et al.
    Lorite, Gabriela
    Kokkonen, Hanna
    Lehenkari, Petri
    Skrifvars, Mikael
    Högskolan i Borås, Institutionen Ingenjörshögskolan.
    Tuukkanen, Juha
    Effect of bioactive extruded PLA/HA composite films on focal adhesion formation of preosteoblastic cells2014Ingår i: Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces, ISSN 0927-7765, E-ISSN 1873-4367, Vol. 121, s. 409-416Artikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    The quality of the initial cell attachment to a biomaterial will influence any further cell function, including spreading, proliferation, differentiation and viability. Cell attachment is influenced by the material's ability to adsorb proteins, which is related to the surface chemistry and topography of the material. In this study, we incorporated hydroxyapatite (HA) particles into a poly(lactic acid) (PLA) composite and evaluated the surface structure and the effects of HA density on the initial cell attachment in vitro of murine calvarial preosteoblasts (MC3T3-EI). Scanning electron microscopy (SEM), atomic force microscopy (AFM) and infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) showed that the HA particles were successfully incorporated into the PLA matrix and located at the surface which is of importance in order to maintain the bioactive effect of the HA particles. SEM and AFM investigation revealed that the HA density (particles/area) as well as surface roughness increased with HA loading concentration (i.e. 5, 10, 15 and 20wt%), which promoted protein adsorption. Furthermore, the presence of HA on the surface enhanced cell spreading, increased the formation of actin stress fibers and significantly improved the expression of vinculin in MC3T3-E1 cells which is a key player in the regulation of cell adhesion. These results suggest the potential utility of PLA/HA composites as biomaterials for use as a bone substitute material and in tissue engineering applications.

  • 67.
    Persson, Nils-Krister
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Skrifvars, Mikael
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Persson, Nils-Krister
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    High-strengthelectrically conductive fibers: Functionalization of polyamide, aramid andpolyester fibers with PEDOT polymer2017Ingår i: Polymers for Advanced Technologies, ISSN 1042-7147, E-ISSN 1099-1581Artikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    In this work, high-performance fibers such as aramid (Twaron), polyamide (PA6), polyester (PET), and hybrid Twaron/PA6 fibers were transformed into electroactive fibers by coating them with conjugated polymer, poly(3,4-ethylenedioxythiophene) (PEDOT) through vapor phase polymerization (VPP) method. The VPP is considered as an efficient technique for depositing CPs on different substrates regardless of their lower solubility in various solvents. In this paper, PEDOT-coated high-performance fibers were prepared under already optimized reaction conditions, and then a comparison between electrical, thermal, and mechanical properties of different fibers, before and after coating, was made. The obtained coated fibers were characterized through scanning electron microscope (SEM), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), 2-probe electrical resistance measurement method, and tensile testing. It was revealed that at particular reaction conditions, all high performance textile substrates were successfully converted into electroactive fibers. The voltage-current (V-I) characteristics showed that PEDOT-coated polyester fibers exhibited highest conductivity value among all other substrate fibers. The active PEDOT layers on high performance fibers could behave as an antistatic coating to minimize the risks associated with static charges at work places. Also, the obtained fibers have potential to be used as smart materials for various medical, sports, and military applications.

  • 68.
    Peterson, Joel
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    The Co-design Process in Mass Customization of Complete Garment Knitted Fashion Products2016Ingår i: Journal of Textile Science & Engineering, E-ISSN 2165-8064, Vol. 6, nr 4, s. 1-8Artikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    Complete garment knitting technology is a method of producing products, generally fashion garments, readymade directly in the knitting machine without operations such as cutting and sewing. This makes it possible to manufacture a fashion garment with fewer processes then with conventional methods. Mass customisation is a customer co-design process of products and that tries to meets the needs of an individual customer's demand. The customer can order a garment with a customised style, colour, size, and other personal preferences. Co-design is a collaborative process between the customer, the retailer, and the manufacturer by which a product is customised to fulfil the customer's requirements. This paper is based on the results of a doctoral thesis. The process of codesign and manufacture of a customised complete fashion product is examined. Research was conducted by a retail concept simulation and three case studies. A cross-case analysis was done to analyse the data. The main findings are a description of two kinds of retail concepts for knitted customized fashion products. A knitted garment can be customized, produced, and delivered to the customer in three to five hours. In the Co-design process two kinds of interactions are feasible between the company and the customer: manual or digital co-design. A manual process has advantages such as: high service level for customers, no requirement of advanced technical equipment. However, manual co-design is labour intensive, a shop assistant can only serve one client at a time. It is also only pplicable to brick-and-mortar stores and not transferable to the Internet. Digital codesign, on the other hand, encourages customers to do the customisation on their own, without the aid of sales personnel and little risk of queues. Moreover, this technique is ideal for the Internet. Disadvantages to date have included limited design options and problem of taking body measurements.

  • 69.
    Peterson, Joel
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Institutionen Textilhögskolan.
    Vegborn, Ellinor
    Högskolan i Borås, Institutionen Textilhögskolan.
    Andersson, Carl-Håkan
    Högskolan i Borås, Institutionen Textilhögskolan.
    Knittability of fibres with high stiffness2000Konferensbidrag (Övrigt vetenskapligt)
    Abstract [en]

    Knitting techniques and machinery are extensively used for the production of textile products for garmet and industrial use. Knitting is also gaining importance for composite materials performing. Basically two principles are in use. i) Weft knitting gives structures of for example traditional sweaters types suitable for structures taking impact loads. ii) Warp knitting gives the traditional tricot structures and the non crimped insert yarn DOS-fabrics extensively used for composite materials fabrication. In the knitting process do hooked needles pick up yarns and form closed loops. The stability of the loop formation depends on the bending of the fibres and type of friction on the needles during the different stages of the knitting process. The characteristics of static friction when the yarn is drawn by the needles into the machine, sliding friction in the loop formation and release after loop formation are of vital importance for the final product. The complexity of the yarn behaviour, the far from ideal mechanical and tribological behaviour of the fibres are mastered by many knitters. The history of knitting indicate the same kind of phenomena as indicated by the history of the steam engine: ”Science owes more to the steam engine than the steam engine owes to science”, lord Kelvin. The knitting process has however been modelled from first principles using models for friction of fibres on positively curved surfaces and simultaneous plastic deformation. A method and fixtures based on earlier work by Andersson et.al adopted for tests of the stress build up in fibres on knitting needles in order to study the knitting process in a tensile testing machine have been developed. Monofilaments and high modulus multifilament yarns known for giving difficulties in knitting process have been studied with respect to : – Static friction – Bending radius of the fibre during the process – Adhesion to needle at the end contact – Sliding friction Plain knitted fabrics and symmetric spacer fabrics have been produced of monofilament and multifilament nylon, PET and aramides. Analysis of fabrics in compression is going on.

  • 70.
    Rafstedt, Josefina
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Friberg Lundgren, Johanna
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Kreativitet vs Kapital: Användningen av innovativa marknadsföringsmetoder hos svenska modeföretag2015Självständigt arbete på grundnivå (kandidatexamen), 10 poäng / 15 hpStudentuppsats (Examensarbete)
    Abstract [sv]

    År 2013 var den globala omsättningen för modeindustrin ca 76 tusen miljarder svenska kronor (Office of Textiles and Apparel, 2014). Bara i Sverige omsattes det 229 miljarder svenska kronor år 2012 inom denna sektor, en ökning på 11 % från föregående år (Tillväxtverket, 2014). Att modebranschen är under ständig utveckling och ökar i tillväxt kan man se då dessa siffror stiger varje år. Statistik från 2014 visar att trots denna ökning så överlever endast 47 % av nystartade modeföretag de tre första åren (Statistic Brain, 2014). Så hur lyckas man som modeföretag i early stage-fasen att med begränsade resurser stärka sitt varumärke och hålla sig kvar på marknaden? I denna studie berörs olika delar så som traditionell marknadsföring, okonventionell marknadsföring, branding samt transparens, där huvudfokus ligger på företag i early stage- fasen av sin uppstart. I uppsatsen genomfördes sju intervjuer med svenska modeföretag som är eller nyligen varit i denna fas för att få ett resultat med så hög validitet som möjligt. Brist på kunskap och kapital är inte ovanligt i denna bransch och med ökad medvetenhet hos konsumenter om de olika processerna, så kan det ibland uppstå svårigheter att försvara sig som nystartat företag. Då modebranschen är i ständig rörelse med stora förändringar från säsong till säsong måste man som nytt företag vara beredd på reformation samt att alltid tänka innovativt. Det är även viktigt att vara uppmärksam på kommande och rådande trender gällande alla aktiviteter ett företag arbetar med. Eftersom olika marknadsföringsstrategier både kan hjälpa och stjälpa ett varumärkes position på marknaden är den stora utmaningen att hitta rätt metod för just sitt företag (Easy, M. 2009). Resultatet av denna studie kommer alltså att bygga på de kvalitativa intervjuer som genomförts med de utvalda företag som har valt att medverka. De beskriver hur deras uppstart sett ut när det kommer till branding samt hur de i olika kanaler väljer att marknadsföra sig. I dessa intervjuer tittar vi även närmare på hur de lyckades starta sin verksamhet och vilka kapitalmedel de använt, deras syn på okonventionell marknadsföring samt hur marknadsföring och branding hänger samman.

  • 71.
    Ramamoorthy, Sunil Kumar
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Bakare, Fatimat
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Herrmann, Rene
    Arcada University of Applied Science.
    Skrifvars, Mikael
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Performance of biocomposites from surface modified regenerated cellulose fibers and lactic acid thermoset bioresin2015Ingår i: Cellulose (London), ISSN 0969-0239, E-ISSN 1572-882XArtikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    The effect of surface treatments, silane and alkali, on regenerated cellulose fibers was studied by using the treated fibers as reinforcement in lactic acid thermoset bioresin. The surface treatments were performed to improve the physico–chemical interactions at the fiber–matrix interface. Tensile, flexural and impact tests were used as indicator of the improvement of the interfacial strength. Furthermore, thermal conductivity, viscoelasticity measurements as well as microscopy images were made to characterize the fiber surface treatments and the effect on adhesion to the matrix. The results showed that silane treatment improved the mechanical properties of the composites as the silane molecule acts as link between the cellulose fiber and the resin (the fiber bonds with siloxane bridge while the resin bonds with organofunctional group of the bi-functional silane molecule) which gives molecular continuity in the interphase of the composite. Porosity volume decreased significantly on silane treatment due to improved interface and interlocking between fiber and matrix. Decrease in water absorption and increase in contact angle confirmed the change in the hydrophilicity of the composites. The storage modulus increased when the reinforcements were treated with silane whereas the damping intensity decreased for the same composites indicating a better adhesion between fiber and matrix on silane treatment. Thermogravimetric analysis indicated that the thermal stability of the reinforcement altered after treatments. The resin curing was followed using differential scanning calorimetry and the necessity for post-curing was recommended. Finite element analysis was used to predict the thermal behavior of the composites and a non-destructive resonance analysis was performed to ratify the modulus obtained from tensile testing. The changes were also seen on composites reinforced with alkali treated fiber. Microscopy images confirmed the good adhesion between the silane treated fibers and the resin at the interface.

  • 72.
    Rao, P. V. Kameswara
    et al.
    Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, Hauz Khas, New Delhi, India.
    Rawal, Amit
    Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, Hauz Khas, New Delhi, India; Fraunhofer Institute of Industrial Mathematics (ITWM), Fraunhofer-Platz 1, D-67663 Kaiserslautern, Germany.
    Kumar, Vijay
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Rajput, Krishn Gopal
    Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, Hauz Khas, New Delhi, India.
    Compression-recovery model of absorptive glass mat (AGM) separator guided by X-ray micro-computed tomography analysis2017Ingår i: Journal of Power Sources, ISSN 0378-7753, E-ISSN 1873-2755, Vol. 365, s. 389-398Artikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    Absorptive glass mat (AGM) separators play a key role in enhancing the cycle life of the valve regulated lead acid (VRLA) batteries by maintaining the elastic characteristics under a defined level of compression force with the plates of the electrodes. Inevitably, there are inherent challenges to maintain the required level of compression characteristics of AGM separators during the charge and discharge of the battery. Herein, we report a three-dimensional (3D) analytical model for predicting the compression-recovery behavior of AGM separators by formulating a direct relationship with the constituent fiber and structural parameters. The analytical model of compression-recovery behavior of AGM separators has successfully included the fiber slippage criterion and internal friction losses. The presented work uses, for the first time, 3D data of fiber orientation from X-ray micro-computed tomography, for predicting the compression-recovery behavior of AGM separators. A comparison has been made between the theoretical and experimental results of compression-recovery behavior of AGM samples with defined fiber orientation characteristics. In general, the theory agreed reasonably well with the experimental results of AGM samples in both dry and wet states. Through theoretical modeling, fiber volume fraction was established as one of the key structural parameters that modulates the compression hysteresis of an AGM separator.

  • 73.
    Rawal, Amit
    et al.
    Indian Institute of Technology Delhi; Fraunhofer Institute for Industrial Mathematics (ITWM); Institut für Textil- und Verfahrenstechnik.
    Kumar, Vijay
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Saraswat, Harshvardhan
    MLV Textile & Engineering College.
    Weerasinghe, Dakshitha
    Institut für Textil- und Verfahrenstechnik.
    Hietel, Dietmar
    Fraunhofer Institute for Industrial Mathematics (ITWM).
    Dauner, Martin
    Institut für Textil- und Verfahrenstechnik.
    Creating three-dimensional (3D) fiber networks with out-of-plane auxetic behavior over large deformations2017Ingår i: Journal of Materials Science, ISSN 0022-2461, E-ISSN 1573-4803, Vol. 52, nr 5, s. 2534-2548Artikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    Fiber networks with out-of-plane auxetic behavior have been sporadically investigated. One of the major challenges is to design such materials with giant negative Poisson’s ratio over large deformations. Here in, we report a systematic investigation to create three-dimensional (3D) fiber networks in the form of needlepunched nonwoven materials with out-of-plane auxetic behavior over large deformations via theoretical modeling and extensive set of experiments. The experimental matrix has encapsulated the key parameters of the needlepunching nonwoven process. Under uniaxial tensile loading, the anisotropy coupled with local fiber densification in networks has yielded large negative Poisson’s ratio (up to −5.7) specifically in the preferential direction. The in-plane and out-of-plane Poisson’s ratios of fiber networks have been predicted and, subsequently, compared with the experimental results. Fiber orientation was found to be a core parameter that modulated the in-plane Poisson’s ratio of fiber networks. A parametric analysis has revealed the interplay between the anisotropy of the fiber network and the out-of-plane Poisson’s ratio based upon constant volume consideration.

  • 74.
    Sandsjö, Leif
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för vård, arbetsliv och välfärd.
    Ragnerius, Anna
    Signals and Systems/Chalmers.
    Widelund, Frida
    Signals and Systems/Chalmers.
    Candefjord, Stefan
    Signals and Systems/Chalmers.
    Rundqvist, Karin
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Nilsson, Erik
    Swerea/IVF.
    Persson, Nils-Krister
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    A piezoelectric smart textile sock for gait analysis - A feasibility study2016Konferensbidrag (Övrigt vetenskapligt)
  • 75. Schneegass, Stefan
    et al.
    Hassib, Mariam
    Zhou, Bo
    Cheng, Jingyuan
    Seoane, Fernando
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för vård, arbetsliv och välfärd. KTH-School of Technology and Health.
    Amft, Oliver
    Lukowicz, Paul
    Schmidt, Albrecht
    SimpleSkin: towards multipurpose smart garments2015Ingår i: Proceedings of the 2015 ACM International Joint Conference on Pervasive and Ubiquitous Computing and Proceedings of the 2015 ACM International Symposium on Wearable Computers, ACM Publications, 2015, s. 241-244Konferensbidrag (Refereegranskat)
  • 76.
    Seipel, Sina
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Yu, Junchun
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Digital inkjet printing as flexible and resource-saving production technique for a smart textile UV-sensor2016Konferensbidrag (Övrigt vetenskapligt)
  • 77.
    Seoane, Fernando
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Soroudi, Azadeh
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Abtahi, Farhad
    KTH, Medicinsk teknik.
    Lu, Ke
    KTH-School of Technology and Health.
    Skrifvars, Mikael
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Printed Electronics Enabling a Textile-friendly Interconnection between Wearable Measurement Instrumentation & Sensorized Garments2016Konferensbidrag (Refereegranskat)
  • 78.
    Sundqvist, Lovisa
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Wrang, Annie
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Vikten att följa trender - en inköpares dilemma?: En tvärsnittsstudie om beslutsfattandet inom svenska modeföretags inköpsprocesser2014Självständigt arbete på grundnivå (kandidatexamen), 10 poäng / 15 hpStudentuppsats (Examensarbete)
    Abstract [sv]

    Sedan millenniumskiftet förändrades modevärlden radikalt av fler säsonger, ökad mångfald av trender samtidigt som trendernas livslängds blev allt kortare. Hos inköparna på de stora klädbolagen ställs det idag ett allt större krav att veta vad som kommer att sälja i framtiden. Idag måste besluten tas snabbt så att kläderna hinner producera och levereras i tid innan modet hinner ändra sig. Som ett hjälpmedel för inköpare och designers om i vilken riktning modet kommer att gå finns trender som fungerar som ett avgränsat modeuttryck för att förmedla och tolka en viss stil och därmed ge en tydlig bild om vad som bör produceras och efterfrågas. Men eftersom internet har medfört en ökad acceleration av trender kan det upplevas svårt att veta vad som kommer sälja i framtiden och det är här ser vi trendbyråernas roll. Trendbyråer har en koordinerande roll på marknaden där de ger företag vägledning om förändringar i modet. Genom trendanalyser får företag en överblick hur riktningen i modet kommer att gå, förstå vilka globala influenser som påverkar modet och en reflektion kring hur allt återspeglas till modet. Vad gäller tidigare forskning av begreppen trender och trendbyråer vid beslutsfattande, har ingen omfattande undersökning tidigare gjorts vilket har medfört att vår uppsats känns värdefull för en mer förståelse kring ämnet. Avsikten med vår uppsats är att undersöka och analysera hur trender och trendanalyser har för betydelse vid beslutsfattande inom inköpsprocessens tidiga stadium hos svenska modeföretag. Studien har efter insamling av teori inom områdena beslut, trender och trendanalyser genomförts med en kvalitativ grund där insamling av det empiriska materialet har utgått från semistrukturerade intervjuer. Intervjuer har främst genomförts med respondenter som innehar en roll inom inköp på svenska modeföretag som ingår i beteckningen SME (Small medium Enterprises). Dessa företag är Ellos, Lindex, Gina Tricot och MQ. För att öka förståelsen kring trender och trendanalyser har intervjuer även genomförts med en trendanalytiker från Svenska Moderådet och en författare bakom boken Trendmakarna. Insamlad data har därefter analyserats och ställts mot teorier angående beslut, trender och trendanalyser i syfte att kunna uttala oss om hur inköpare ser på trender och trendbyråers betydelse vid beslutsfattande av inköp. De resultat som empirin bestått av ger indikationer på att trender har en betydande roll men att det både kan öka och minska på osäkerheter samt risker. Inköparna anser att det finns många risker med trendbaserade produkter men att trendanalyser vid beslutsfattande kan användas för att förstå riktningen modet går i för att därefter kunna anpassa inköpen genom volym, budget, material och leverantörer. Därmed kan de vara ett hjälpmedel för att minska på både ett besluts risk och osäkerhet, vilket bekräftar de teorier som tagits upp. Dock kan vi uttala oss om att beslutsfattande inom inköp inte bara baseras på trendanalyser utan andra faktorer och variabler spelar också in.

  • 79.
    Tadesse Abate, Molla
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Ferri, Ada
    Department of Applied Science and Technology, Politecnico di Torino.
    Guan, Jinping
    College of Textile and Clothing Engineering, Soochow University.
    Chen, Guoqiang
    College of Textile and Clothing Engineering, Soochow University.
    Ferreira, Jorge
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Single-step disperse dyeing and antimicrobial functionalization of polyester fabric with chitosan and derivative in supercritical carbon dioxide2019Ingår i: Journal of Supercritical Fluids, ISSN 0896-8446, E-ISSN 1872-8162, Vol. 147, s. 231-240Artikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    In this study, a novel green approach was adopted to develop antimicrobial polyester fabric using sustainable biopolymers (chitosan/derivative) as eco-friendly antimicrobial agents via the resource efficient supercritical CO2 (scCO2) dyeing route in a single step. Polyester fabric was dyed with a small amount of dye (0.4% owf) in the presence of chitosan/derivative (3% owf) in scCO2 at 120 °C, 25 MPa for 1 h. The success of chitosan/derivative impregnation was confirmed by Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR), Zeta Potential (ζ), Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM), and Water Contact Angle (WCA) measurements. According to the result, excellent color strength and fastness properties were obtained and the treated samples also reduced 75 − 93% of Escherichia coli (ATCC 25922) bacteria within one hour. This suggests that the dye and chitosan/derivative had no adverse effect on each other, proving compatibility. This new approach would help to reduce the cost of production and environmental pollution associated with the conventional textile finishing processes.

  • 80.
    Tadesse Abate, Molla
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Ferri, Ada
    Department of Applied Science and Technology, Politecnico di Torino.
    Guan, Jinping
    College of Textile and Clothing Engineering, Soochow University.
    Chen, Guoqiang
    College of Textile and Clothing Engineering, Soochow University.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Colouration and bio-activation of polyester fabric with curcumin in supercritical CO2: Part I - Investigating colouration properties2019Ingår i: The Journal of Supercritical Fluids, ISSN 0896-8446Artikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat)
  • 81.
    Tadesse Abate, Molla
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Combined Pre-treatment and Causticization of cotton fabric for improved dye uptake2017Ingår i: Advance Research in Textile Engineering, ISSN 2572-9373, Vol. 2, nr 1, artikel-id 1016Artikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    Conventionally, cotton fabric is subjected to a series of separate pretreatment processes such as desizing, scouring, and bleaching to remove natural and added impurities for satisfactory dyeing and finishing. When the sole purpose is to improve the dye uptake, cotton fabric is subjected to yet another separate process called causticization, a treatment of cotton fabric at reduced concentration of caustic soda (110-150 g/L) compared to mercerization. All these processes i.e. desizing, scouring, and bleaching are lengthy and require large amount of water, energy, chemicals, and time which lead to increase in cost and productivity loss.

    In this paper, a combined desizing, scouring, bleaching and causticization process with shorter processing time is reported. Single factor randomized experimental design was used for process optimization. Based on experiments, the optimum recipe consisted of padding the gray cotton fabric using a twodip, two-nip technique in a bath containing NaOH 140g/L; Sodium Per Borate (SPB) 40-45g/L; wetting agent 1g/L, batching for 30 min at room temperature and washing the treated fabric with 1g/L emulsifier twice for 15 minutes each at boil with 3% owf SPB added during the second wash, rinsed with hot and cold water and air dried.

    The results showed excellent wettability, good degree of whiteness, minimum loss of tensile strength and higher dye uptake compared to uncausticized commercially bleached cotton fabric.

  • 82.
    Tadesse Abate, Molla
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Combined Pre-treatment and Causticization of cotton fabric for improved dye uptake2017Ingår i: Advance Research in Textile Engineering, ISSN 2572-9373, Vol. 2, nr 1, artikel-id 1016Artikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    Conventionally, cotton fabric is subjected to a series of separate pretreatment processes such as desizing, scouring, and bleaching to remove natural and added impurities for satisfactory dyeing and finishing. When the sole purpose is to improve the dye uptake, cotton fabric is subjected to yet another separate process called causticization, a treatment of cotton fabric at reduced concentration of caustic soda (110-150 g/L) compared to mercerization. All these processes i.e. desizing, scouring, and bleaching are lengthy and require large amount of water, energy, chemicals, and time which lead to increase in cost and productivity loss.

    In this paper, a combined desizing, scouring, bleaching and causticization process with shorter processing time is reported. Single factor randomized experimental design was used for process optimization. Based on experiments, the optimum recipe consisted of padding the gray cotton fabric using a twodip, two-nip technique in a bath containing NaOH 140g/L; Sodium Per Borate (SPB) 40-45g/L; wetting agent 1g/L, batching for 30 min at room temperature and washing the treated fabric with 1g/L emulsifier twice for 15 minutes each at boil with 3% owf SPB added during the second wash, rinsed with hot and cold water and air dried.

    The results showed excellent wettability, good degree of whiteness, minimum loss of tensile strength and higher dye uptake compared to uncausticized commercially bleached cotton fabric.

  • 83.
    Tadesse Abate, Molla
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Eco-friendly antimicrobial functionalization and dyeing of PET fabrics using supercritical carbon dioxide2017Konferensbidrag (Övrigt vetenskapligt)
  • 84.
    Tadesse Abate, Molla
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi. University of Boras.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Supercritical CO2 technology for simultaneous dyeing and antimicrobial functionalization of PET fabrics2018Konferensbidrag (Övrigt vetenskapligt)
  • 85.
    Tadesse Abate, Molla
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Supercritical CO2 technology in resource effective textile production of functional textiles2017Konferensbidrag (Övrigt vetenskapligt)
    Abstract [en]

    Supercritical CO2 (SC-CO2) textile processing is a water-free technology with significant savings in energy, chemicals, and wastewater while producing high-quality products thereby creating new business opportunities. It is an attractive alternative to both water and organic solvent since it is inexpensive, essentially nontoxic, nonflammable, environmentally friendly and requires relatively low critical temperature 310c and pressure 7.38 Mpa which can easily be recaptured and recycled after use.

    Today supercritical CO2 dyeing of PET has come up to the commercial level. The Netherlands-based company, DyeCoo Textile Systems, was the first to launch commercial SC-CO2 dyeing system. Meanwhile, SC-CO2 is a resource efficient, flexible, and ecological textile production which could be a suitable technology for textile functionalization. However, there are limited studies on the potential use of this technology for the production of smart and functional textiles. Furthermore, unlike dyes, fundamental understanding of the solubility and transport (kinetics) properties of functional compounds is lacking.

    The aim of this research project is to develop sustainable functional and smart textile materials using SC-CO2 technology. It will focus on combined dyeing and functionalization (antimicrobial, medical/care, and flame retardant) of woven and knitted synthetic textiles using SC-CO2. Preliminary experiments have been conducted to develop antimicrobial polyester fabric in SC-CO2 and a promising result is found. Furthermore, characterization of the functionalized fabric (surface property, wettability), the release kinetics of active principles from textiles (Franz cell device, HPLC) and the skin physiology after the contact with a functionalized fabric (cutometer) will be investigated. 

  • 86.
    Tadesse Abate, Molla
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Seipel, Sina
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Viková, M
    Department of Material Engineering; Faculty of Textile Engineering; Technical University of Liberec.
    Vik, M
    Department of Material Engineering; Faculty of Textile Engineering; Technical University of Liberec.
    Ferri, A
    3 Department of Applied Science and Technology, Politecnico di Torino.
    Jinping, G
    College of Textile and Clothing Engineering, Soochow University.
    Chen, G
    College of Textile and Clothing Engineering, Soochow University.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Comparison of the photochromic behaviour of dyes in solution and on polyester fabric applied by supercritical carbon dioxide2019Konferensbidrag (Övrigt vetenskapligt)
    Abstract [en]

    Photochromic textiles are of considerable interest for smart and functional textile applications due to their remarkable dynamic colour changing effect when irradiated with light of a certain wavelength. The use of resource efficient processes, such as digital inkjet printing and supercritical carbon dioxide (scCO2) dyeing techniques enables an economic production of those high-end functional products with high material costs. In this study, photochromic polyester fabric has been prepared by applying two commercially important photochromic dyes from spirooxazine (SO) and naphthopyran (NP) dye classes using scCO2-dyeing technique. The properties of scCO2 dyed photochromic fabrics were compared with the properties of the same dyes in a non-polar solvent, hexane. UV-Vis spectroscopy and a specially designed online colour measurement system capable of simultaneous UV irradiation and colour measurement were used to evaluate the photochromic colour behaviour. Both photochromic dye types embedded in textile as well as in solution showed significant reversible colour changing properties when exposed to UV light and revert to their original non-coloured form when the UV light is removed. The scCO2 dyed polyester fabrics exhibited similar trends of colour build-up as in solution, while contrasting behaviour was observed in terms of colour changing rates compared to their behaviour in solution.

  • 87.
    Tadesse, Melkie Getnet
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Quality Inspection and Evaluation of Smart or Functional Textile Fabric Surface by Skin Contact Mechanics2019Doktorsavhandling, monografi (Övrigt vetenskapligt)
    Abstract [sv]

    Den snabba utvecklingen av e-textil för konsumtion har gett forskarna ett stort uppsving mot utvecklingen av smarta och funktionella textilier. Konsumtionen av funktionella och smarta textilier för bärbara e-textilier är extra iögonfallande tack vare egenskaperna: lättvikt, flexibilitet (böjbarhet/följsamhet), töjbarhet och för att de kan integreras i kläder. Denna plattform gör arenan för bärbara e-textilier mer användarvänlig, men sätter samtidigt en gräns för den önskvärda taktila komforten vid hudkontakt. Hittills har många forskare försökt förse konsumenterna med känslan av ett normalt tyg genom subjektiva och objektiva utvärderingsmetoder. Däremot har få eller inga försök lyckats att utvärdera den taktila komforten hos funktionella och smarta textilier.

    I denna avhandling föreslås, för första gången, en systematisk metod för att studera de taktila komfortegenskaperna hos funktionella och smarta textilier genom subjektiv och objektiv utvärdering utifrån principen om mekaniken hos hudkontakt Först producerades, utvecklades och samlades olika funktionella och smarta textilvävnader med hjälp av olika toppmoderna teknologier, såsom 3D-tryckning, beläggning, bläckstråleskrivning, skärmutskrift, införlivande av smart fiber med användning av stickning. Proverna var termokroma, ledande och fotokroma. Sedan undersöktes de fysiologiska och psykologiska aspekterna beträffande taktil komfort genom visuell och blind subjektiv utvärdering. Resultatet tolkades med olika statistiska tekniker. Taktila experiment med en tränad expertpanel utfördes för att verifiera tygest taktila känsla. Vi följde ett nytt tillvägagångssätt för att verifiera hypotesen som uppkom från olika taktila attribut. Utifrån denna studie drar vi slutsatsen att det är troligt att taktila komfortegenskaper kan uppfattas genom visuella och blinda scenarier.

    Ytterligare objektiva mätningar av provernas taktila egenskaper gjordes med utvärderingssystemet Kawabata (KES – Kawabata evaluation system). Mekaniska egenskaper vid låg spänning, relaterade till tygernas taktila komfort, mättes med KES. KES-resultatet bekräftade att det är tillförlitligt att mäta de taktila egenskaperna med objektiva metoder för att tolka provernas taktila egenskaper. Ett antal relevanta intelligenta system såsom ”fuzzy logic” och ”artificial neural network” (ANN) implementerades för att tolka och analysera de subjektiva och objektiva taktila dataserierna, samt för att jämföra resultaten som uppnåtts med de olika metoderna.

  • 88.
    Tadesse, Melkie Getnet
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Effect of liquid immersion of PEDOT:PSS-coated polyester fabric on surface resistance and wettability2017Ingår i: Smart materials and structures (Print), ISSN 0964-1726, E-ISSN 1361-665X, Vol. 26, s. 1-7, artikel-id 065016Artikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    Coating of textile fabrics with poly (3, 4-ethylenedioxythiophene): poly (styrene sulfonate) (PEDOT:PSS) is one of the methods used for obtaining functional or smart applications. In this work, we prepared PEDOT:PSS polymer with certain additives such as polyethylene glycol (PEG), methanol (MeOH), and ethylene glycol (EG) on polyester fabric substrates by a simple immersion process. Surface resistance was measured and analyzed with analysis of variance to determine the coating parameters at 95% confidence level. Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) analysis and Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) study of the samples were performed. Contact angle and washing fastness measurements were conducted, to observe the wettability and washing fastness of the samples, respectively. Surface resistance values were decreased by a factor of 100, due to conductive enhancers. As the immersion time and temperature condition varies, surface resistance showed no difference, statistically. FTIR analysis supports the idea that the mechanism responsible for the conductivity enhancement is the partial replacement of PSS from PEDOT chain by forming a hydrogen bond with hydroxyl ion (OH) of the conductive enhancers. A SEM images showed that PEDOT:PSS is well distributed to the surface of the fabrics. Contact angle measurements showed morphology change in the samples. The conductivity was reasonably stable after 10 washing cycles. Altogether, an effective simple immersion of coated polyester fabric is presented to achieve functional textiles that offer a broad range of possible applications.

    Coating of textile fabrics with poly (3, 4-ethylenedioxythiophene): poly (styrene sulfonate) (PEDOT:PSS) is one of the methods used for obtaining functional or smart applications. In this work, we prepared PEDOT:PSS polymer with certain additives such as polyethylene glycol (PEG), methanol (MeOH), and ethylene glycol (EG) on polyester fabric substrates by a simple immersion process. Surface resistance was measured and analyzed with analysis of variance to determine the coating parameters at 95% confidence level. Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) analysis and Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) study of the samples were performed. Contact angle and washing fastness measurements were conducted, to observe the wettability and washing fastness of the samples, respectively. Surface resistance values were decreased by a factor of 100, due to conductive enhancers. As the immersion time and temperature condition varies, surface resistance showed no difference, statistically. FTIR analysis supports the idea that the mechanism responsible for the conductivity enhancement is the partial replacement of PSS from PEDOT chain by forming a hydrogen bond with hydroxyl ion (OH) of the conductive enhancers. A SEM images showed that PEDOT:PSS is well distributed to the surface of the fabrics. Contact angle measurements showed morphology change in the samples. The conductivity was reasonably stable after 10 washing cycles. Altogether, an effective simple immersion of coated polyester fabric is presented to achieve functional textiles that offer a broad range of possible applications.

  • 89.
    Tadesse, Melkie Getnet
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Desalegn Alemu, Mengistie
    Chalmers University of Technology.
    Müller, Christian
    Chalmers University of Technology.
    Loghin, Maria Carmen
    Gheorghe Asachi Technical University of Iasi.
    Chen, Yan
    Soochow University.
    Wang, Lichuan
    Electromechanical properties of polyamide/lycra fabric treated with PEDOT:PSS2017Ingår i: Electromechanical properties of polyamide/lycra fabric treated with PEDOT:PSS, Institute of Physics (IOP), 2017, Vol. 254, s. 072025-Konferensbidrag (Refereegranskat)
    Abstract [en]

    One of the challenges in smart textiles is to develop suitable multifunctional materials that can address simultaneously several characteristics such as durability, stretchability, lightweight, and conductivity. Conductive polymers which showed success in different technological fields like polymer solar cells and light emitting diodes are promising in many smart textile applications. In this work, we treated a common polyamide/lycra knitted fabric with PEDOT:PSS for stretchable e-textiles. PEDOT:PSS, with DMSO as a conductivity enhancer and different ratios of water-based polyurethane dispersions as a binder, was applied to the fabric with simple immersion and coating applications. The effect of different application methods and binder ratio on the surface resistance of the fabric was monitored with four point probe electrical surface resistance measurement systems. Samples prepared by immersion technique are more uniform and have higher conductivity than those prepared by a coating technique. SEM images showed that PEDOT:PSS is incorporated into the structure in the immersion method while in the coating it is majorly present on the surface of the fabric. The tensile measurement showed that the acidic PEDOT:PSS and polyurethane dispersion coating has no adverse effect on the tensile strength of the fabric. The coated samples can be stretched up to 700% while still reasonably conductive. The resistance increases only by a small amount when samples were stretched cyclically by stretching 100%. Generally, samples prepared by the immersion method maintained better conductivity while stretching than those by a coating method. The washing fastness of the samples was also assessed.

  • 90.
    Torlakcik, Tugce
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    New Product Forecasting with Structured Analogy Method in the Fashion Industry: Case Studies with the Fashion Footwear Products2015Självständigt arbete på avancerad nivå (masterexamen), 20 poäng / 30 hpStudentuppsats (Examensarbete)
    Abstract [en]

    Fashion and the contemporary environment as a whole, is a complex environment that requires retailers and wholesalers to adapt to the changes that constantly occurring. This adaptation is in a bid to ensure that more profits than loses are realized by the company. For this reason, companies have to use various methods to determine the best ways to improve their products. Companies resolve to introduction of new product to the market but the acceptance of new products to the fashion industry is not an assured factor but rather a gamble. This is mainly because of the industry’s characteristics. The main aim of this thesis is to analyze the methods that may be used to improve the accuracy of new products. The fashion industry has characteristics that may be considered as challenges because for instance, when a product is launched, one has to determine whether it is by a reputable designer or whether it is a trend, and with the fashion industry, trends are mainly turned into such by celebrities who introduce a certain design to the world for adoption. These challenges or characteristics are carefully analyzed and examined with the necessity of the introduction of new products analyzed. Data collection, being the main backbone of this thesis and multiple-case study method, is used to answer the research question as “How can structured analogy method be used to improve the forecast accuracy for the footwear products in the fashion industry “.Samples for case study have been chosen from footwear category. Structured analogy method is used to determine the accuracy of the information gathered from literature review.

  • 91.
    Ublova, Tamara
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    FASHION BRANDS ON SOCIAL MEDIA: Why consumers engage with companies via social media2015Självständigt arbete på avancerad nivå (masterexamen), 20 poäng / 30 hpStudentuppsats (Examensarbete)
    Abstract [en]

    The online consumer engagement is becoming very significant for companies striving to build their relationship with their consumers. Social media gives an opportunity not only to reach consumers in a passive way, but to engage them in active communication and to upload content that is consequently updated and drawing followers´ attention. Successful online consumer engagement can improve consumers’ loyalty and trust in the brand. Therefore, it is important for a company to be aware of actions that can encourage consumer engagement on social media. The goal of this study is to help marketers achieve higher consumer engagement that will consequently lead to more loyal customers.

  • 92.
    Vega-Barbas, Mario
    et al.
    KTH-School of Technology and Health.
    Pau, Iván
    Universidad Politecnica de Madrid.
    Ferreira, Javier
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för vård, arbetsliv och välfärd. KTH-School of Technology and Health.
    Lebis, Evelyn
    Seoane, Fernando
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för vård, arbetsliv och välfärd. KTH-School of Technology and Health.
    Utilizing Smart Textiles-Enabled Sensorized Toy and Playful Interactions for Assessment of Psychomotor Development on Children2015Ingår i: Journal of Sensors, ISSN 1687-725X, E-ISSN 1687-7268, artikel-id 898047Artikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat)
  • 93.
    Zhou, Bo
    et al.
    DFKI.
    Altamirano, Carlos Andres Velez
    DFKI.
    Zurian, Heber Cruz
    DFKI.
    Atefi, Seyed Reza
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Billing, Erik
    Högskolan i Skövde.
    Seoane, Fernando
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi. Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för vård, arbetsliv och välfärd. KTH-School of Technology and Health.
    Lukowicz, Paul
    DFKI.
    Textile Pressure Mapping Sensor for Emotional Touch Detection in Human-Robot Interaction2017Ingår i: Sensors, Vol. 17, nr 11Artikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat)
  • 94.
    Zhou, Bo
    et al.
    DFKI.
    Cruz, Heber Zurian
    DFKI.
    Atefi, Seyed Reza
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi. Harvard University.
    Billing, Erik
    Högskolan i Skövde.
    Seoane, Fernando
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi. Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för vård, arbetsliv och välfärd. Karolinska Institutet.
    Lukowicz, Paul
    DFKI.
    TouchMe: Full-textile Touch Sensitive Skin for Encouraging Human-Robot Interaction2017Ingår i: The robotic sense of touch: from sensing to understanding, workshop at the IEEE International Conference on Robotics and Automation (ICRA), May 29-June 3, Singapore, 2017Konferensbidrag (Refereegranskat)
  • 95.
    Zhou, Yuyang
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Yu, Junchun
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Biswas, Tuser
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Tang, Ren-Cheng
    National Engineering Laboratory for Modern Silk, College of Textile and Clothing Engineering, Soochow University, 199 Renai Road, Suzhou 215123, China.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Inkjet Printing of Curcumin-Based Ink for Coloration and Bioactivation of Polyamide, Silk, and Wool Fabrics2019Ingår i: ACS Sustainable Chemistry & Engineering, E-ISSN 2168-0485, Vol. 7, nr 2Artikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat)
  • 96.
    Åkerfeldt, Maria
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi. Swerea IVF AB, Materials department, Mölndal, Sweden.
    Lund, Anja
    Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.
    Walkenström, Pernilla
    Swerea IVF AB, Materials department, Mölndal, Sweden.
    Textile sensing glove with piezoelectric PVDF fibers and printed electrodes of PEDOT:PSS2015Ingår i: Textile research journal, ISSN 0040-5175, E-ISSN 1746-7748, Vol. 85, nr 17, s. 1789-1799Artikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat)
  • 97.
    Åkerfeldt, Maria
    et al.
    Högskolan i Borås, Institutionen Textilhögskolan.
    Strååt, Martin
    A Rheological Study of a Textile Coating Paste containing PEDOT:PSS2011Konferensbidrag (Övrigt vetenskapligt)
    Abstract [en]

    A conductive coating paste suitable for knife coating of textiles can be obtained with PEDOT:PSS, a polyurethane based binder, ethylene glycol and a rheology modifier. The influence of each component, as well as combinatory effects, has been studied with shear viscometry. Indicated associative interactions between the components are discussed.

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