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  • 1.
    Curtis, Amanda
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Redesigning Together: Relearning Roles and the Value of Materials in the Overproduction of Fashion2018Doctoral thesis, monograph (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    What could cause greater upheaval in any system of trade than the consumer becoming the producer? 

    Even though there is a vast amount of information concerning the negative environmental and social impact that the overproduction of fashion contributes to, the industry still manages to attract and make more people into consumers as they are playing on the human need and desire for renewal. The purpose of this study is to learn more about collaborative approaches on a grassroots level that could contribute to reducing the growing mountain of second-hand garments created by this overproduction. 

    Based on the two premises that (1) everyone can be a designer at times, and (2) reutilization is a viable sustainable approach to deal with problems of waste, a third premise (3) an installation matters was put into practice as an installation containing an exhibition and a crafting workshop was organised in Mozambique, Mexico, Sweden and Singapore. Taking support from the two theoretical frameworks of community of practice and activity theory the participants’ activities and responses during the redesign of second-hand garments were analysed. The resulting installations can be said to have facilitated four different temporary communities of practice in which learning and artefacts were socially produced. 

    The project shows that people were attracted to and then inclined to participate in the proposed activities as they voluntarily chose to engage and find their own role in the process of reusing and redesigning materials that they previously had not considered using. Their resulting artefacts confirm the initial assumption that everyone can be a designer at times if given the opportunity. The project also shows that it is possible to use the concept of reutilisation and redesign to gather people from different socio economic backgrounds with different motivations, ages, cultures and pre-skills into a collaborative learning experience that also becomes a means of production. 

    To place the production process closer to consumers in this way changes people’s relationship towards the materials and processes needed for the production of fashion. They become closer to their personalised garment and their perception of waste materials changes. This revaluation of roles and materials could have an impact on the way people choose to continue to engage in fashion as they may either move away from the habit of buying new materials or begin to create affordable fashion from what already exists. If this initiative can become recurring within communities then significant difference could be achieved as people choose to turn waste into resource, satisfying their need for renewal and urge to be creative together whilst coming up with their own everyday approaches to sustainable fashion.

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  • 2.
    Forsgren, Emma
    University of Borås, Faculty of Librarianship, Information, Education and IT.
    Enterprise Social Media in Project-based Knowledge Work: A contextualized view through the lens of activity theory2018Doctoral thesis, monograph (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    Project-based knowledge work is characterised by decentralised and dynamic team-based structures, different from the tradi­tional, bureaucratic organisation. Arguably, this flexible and collaborative work setting could benefit from enterprise social media, which helps facilitate how people connect, collaborate and share information across organisational boundaries.

    This thesis applies the theoretical lens of activity theory to explore the adoption, use and integration of enterprise social media in project-based knowledge work. Moreover, it develops a rich sociocultural understanding of how these platforms are situated in work activities. In particular, the focus lies on information sharing and the potential to connect different types of work, roles and responsibilities.

    Through a qualitative research design, this thesis contributes towards under­standing the subtle interplay between enterprise social media, employees’ infor­mation sharing and their situated work activities. Key findings reveal that enter­prise social media created long-term strategic benefits, such as a shared knowledge base, situation awareness, horizon scanning, as well as making project-based knowledge work more intertwined. Furthermore, support was also found for a grassroots approach for adoption, as employees were personally invested and more likely to find meaningful use in their activities, through exploration, innovation and trial and error.

    This thesis also identifies contradictions that relate to the role of enterprise social media for information sharing. It became evident that different platforms could co-exist in functional arrangements, with a specific place and purpose in the wider ecology. However, contradictions emerge in terms of overlaps between technolo-gies, asymmetry in usage and the appearance of different information sharing practices and dependencies.

    This work presents new theoretical insights into how enterprise social media are used for information sharing in work activities, bringing attention to what people are aiming to achieve, and highlighting how sociocultural elements can have an influence.

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  • 3.
    Goldsmith, David
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    WomenWeave Daily: "Artisan Fashion" as "Slow and Sustainable Fashion"2018Doctoral thesis, monograph (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    As awareness has grown of the detrimental, often lethal, aspects of fashion production and use, so too has a global movement to diminish its environmental harms and mediate its social exploitation. In all types of commercial, academic, and popular discourse about fashion, words such as eco-friendly, green, ethical, fair, and slow -- the last being a catch-all term for all things “not fast fashion”-- are ubiquitous. These terms are meant to represent an array of ways of producing and using that are said or hoped to be sustainable.

    This research is primarily concerned with the social sustainability, or human development aspects, of artisan fashion, in the context of textile management. Artisan fashion is defined here as both product (such as a handwoven shawl), and as an evolving contemporary fashion system that typically employs rural artisans in the “developing world” to make products that are generally sold to urban, “developed world” consumers. Artisan fashion, which attempts to bridge old ways of producing with new ways of consuming, is positioned in this research as it has come to be viewed in the fashion marketplace: a subset of so-called slow and sustainable fashion. Though artisan fashion is emblematic of many slow and sustainable ideals, there is little academic questioning or understanding of how “slow” and how “sustainable” the stuff and the system that makes it actually are.

    This case study centers on WomenWeave, a medium-sized handloomed- textile making social enterprise in a quickly-changing small town in rural India. This producer, employing about 200 individuals, mostly women with low-education and little privilege, specializes in naya khadi, a type of apparel or furnishings fabric whose antecedent, khadi, is an integral part of the grand narrative of India’s independence movement. Founded by a “social entrepreneur” with deep and privileged roots in the community, the case is idiosyncratic, yet representative of a common market-based ideological approach to human development.

    A narrative, ethnographic methodology was used that included multiple field visits, observations, interviews, and participatory interactions with the case’s leadership, management, artisans, product designers, partners and experts, among others. The empirical experiences are presented, analyzed, and discussed through the lenses of Activity Theory, and an adaptation of Osterwalder and Pingeur’s Business Model Canvas.

    While the nomenclature of “slow and sustainable fashion” is, at least for the time being, rejected, the research shows that with professional management, the adoption of “global design” sensibilities, and other fast modernisms, the system achieves its local mission of providing incomes and fostering social inclusion.

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  • 4.
    Hicks, Alison
    University of Borås, Faculty of Librarianship, Information, Education and IT.
    The theory of mitigating risk: Information literacy and language-learning in transition2018Doctoral thesis, monograph (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    This qualitative study explores the information literacy practices of students who were learning a language overseas as part of their undergraduate degree. Constructivist grounded theory and situational analysis were used to examine the information activities of 26 English-speakers from Australia, Canada, the United States and the United Kingdom. Students were learning one of eight languages in 14 different American, Asian and European countries for a period of between four and 12 months overseas. Semi-structured interviews and photoelicitation method were used to give each participant the opportunity to present an explanatory narrative of their time overseas and to explicate nuanced and contextual information that is hard to verbalise. The study is informed by a theoretical framework that includes practice theory and transitions theory.

     

    The theory of mitigating risk emerges from the study’s analysis and provides a rich explanation of how an engagement with information supports language-student transition to new and culturally unfamiliar information environments. The theory illustrates how academic, physical and financial stress that is produced through participation within a new setting catalyses the enactment of information literacy practices that subsequently mediate student transition from acting like a language-learner to becoming a language-learner during their time overseas. From an educational perspective, the theory of mitigating risk broadens understanding about the shape that information literacy takes within transition to a new intercultural context while setting the scene for the design of educational interventions that recognise the fluid and generative possibilities of this period. From a broader social perspective, the theory of mitigating risk contributes to research that explores how businesses and communities can respond to and prepare for increasingly flexible global movement.

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  • 5.
    Ma, Ke
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Inter-Organizational Collaboration for Optimizing Textile Supply Chains2018Doctoral thesis, monograph (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    Nowadays, as the increasing trend of customization and personalization in fashion market, the mass customization and small-series production has become more and more important in textile supply chain. However, there are still many drawbacks in existing supply chain models which are used to cope with this trend. Collaboration plays a vital role in supply chain management in past decades. However, supply chain collaboration is rarely applied in textile industry, neither in research nor in practice. Considering the potential advantages of the application of supply chain collaboration, to bridge the gap, this thesis employs multiple supply chain collaboration strategies to optimize existing textile supply chain models.

    In this PhD research, a thorough investigation and literature review regarding supply chain collaboration was conducted. Several emerging supply chain collaboration paradigms and strategies were identified, which provided a theoretical foundation and research direction for the subsequent research. Consequently, three innovative supply chain models with corresponding optimization strategies were developed: (1) a novel resource sharing mechanism for optimizing garment manufacturing echelon in textile supply chain, (2) a central order processing system for optimizing demand-driven textile supply chain, and (3) a collaborative cloud service platform for optimizing make-to-order textile supply chain. Identified supply chain collaboration strategies, viz. resource sharing, information sharing, joint decision-making, profit sharing, were employed for developing the three collaborative models. Optimization heuristics were also designed for different objectives in three models respectively. The three proposed supply chain collaboration strategies were realized in three simulation models by employing discrete-event simulation technology or multi-agent simulation technology. Several experiments were conducted to demonstrate the advantages of such collaborative structure under different conditions. Based on simulation experiment results, multiple supply chain performances were improved significantly in each model under different conditions. The developed models with corresponding strategies can optimize current textile supply chain and help companies maintain competence in the trend of mass customization in textile industry.

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  • 6.
    Malmgren de Oliveira, Stefanie
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Acts of seeing: seeing as a methodological tool in fashion design2018Doctoral thesis, monograph (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    Fashion design can be described as perpetually having to produce new suggestions of dress. The foundational tool for realising such propositions in a precise and focused way is the act of seeing. Rather than referring to the sense of sight or visual perception, the act of seeing builds on the concept of the ‘inner eye’ in the sense of imagination, discovery, and the direction of design ideas.

    Seeing as a foundational act in the creative process is not a novel concept; on the contrary, it is usually an intuitive act that any designer performs when directing design ideas towards aesthetic goals. However, systematisation and an awareness of seeing in design processes, as methods of developing ways of working in the field of fashion design, are still open for further research. Therefore, the research presented in this thesis is aimed to systematically explore the act of seeing as a methodological tool in fashion design processes.

    The experiments described in this thesis were used to explore the act of seeing in relation to concepts such as ideation, decision-making, direction, and reflection. The acts of seeing were documented iteratively in photographic sequences, and were important materials for documentation and reflection. The interaction between seeing and doing was recorded using action/reaction chains, and analysed through two modes of seeing: forming and materialising.

    The most important contributions of this research are: 1) The hypothesis that the act of seeing is a methodological tool that is fundamental to creative processes. 2) A framework of ideas that builds on the interplay between the act of seeing and consequential act of doing, which was the basis for experiments that shifted between the two modes forming and materialising. 3) A mapping of different kinds of seeing.

    This raises awareness of design sensibilities, and could lead to more conscious and focused ways of working in which the act of seeing is a foundation for ways of designing that are both methodological and systematic.

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  • 7.
    Michnik, Katarina
    University of Borås, Faculty of Librarianship, Information, Education and IT.
    Samhällets allt-i-allo?: Om folkbibliotekens sociala legitimitet2018Doctoral thesis, monograph (Other academic)
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  • 8.
    Mäntykangas, Arja
    University of Borås, Faculty of Librarianship, Information, Education and IT.
    Contribution of Library Managers to Information Society2018Doctoral thesis, monograph (Other academic)
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  • 9.
    Osadolor, Osagie Alex
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Design and development of a novel textile based bioreactor:: Ethanol and biogas production as case studies2018Doctoral thesis, monograph (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    Bioreactors are designed to provide enabling conditions for the controlled growth of microorganisms, such as good heat and mass transfer, aeration, hydrodynamics, geometry for adequate gas holdup, pH and foaming control, conditions for optimal substrate consumption and product formation, as well as mechanisms for monitoring microbial conditions. Additionally, bioreactors are designed to handle stress that would be exerted on them by the weight of the fermenting media and by the high pressure used for sterilisation. Bioreactors are usually constructed with materials such as stainless steel, carbon steel and borosilicate glass, which must be suitable for growing the fermenting microbes, be inert and corrosion proof. In this thesis, a textile-based bioreactor was designed and developed for aerobic and anaerobic fermentation based production processes with emphasis on mixing, mass transfer, temperature control, rheology, hydrodynamics and stress containment in the bioreactor.

    Temperature control was carried out using a heat control tubing either at the bottom of the bioreactor or as a heating jacket around its vertical height. The developed temperature control system was tested anaerobically and aerobically. Under anaerobic conditions with yeast it resulted in 200 % increase in ethanol productivity in comparison with the prototype without temperature control.

    A mixing system was developed for flocculating microbes and tested for anaerobic fermentation processes such as ethanol and biogas production. The developed mixing system led to the elimination of mass transfer limitation even at 30 times less bulk flow conditions. The mixing system also favoured stable bed formation, and the possibility of operating the bioreactor at a dilution rate above 1/h for ethanol production using flocculating yeast. A mixing system was also developed for aerobic fermentation and it led to improved media rheological and hydrodynamic performance of the bioreactor for fungi fermentation. The improved performance could be seen from minimised foam formation and stabilisation at an aeration rate of 1.4 VVMon a viscous, integrated first- and second-generation ethanol substrate with an initial viscosity of 93 cP.

    The stress that would be exerted on the bioreactor when used for large-scale applications was simulated and validated at laboratory scale. For 100–1000 m3 bioreactor, the tension per unit length that would be exerted on it would be between 300–20000 N/m.

    In this thesis, it was found that the use of the developed textile bioreactor was effective in reducing the fermentation-associated investment cost by 21 % or more, introducing flexibility and addressing several technical problems associated with both anaerobic and aerobic fermentation-based production processes.

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  • 10.
    Paras, Manoj Kumar
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Reuse-based Reverse Value Chain for Sustainable Apparel Industry2018Doctoral thesis, monograph (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    The reverse value chain is a concept that maximizes the utility of a product after end-of-life or end-of-use. Its main components are reuse, repair, up-cycling and down-cycling. This thesis has investigated the business of apparel ‘reuse’ to develop a reuse-based reverse value chain model for apparel industry. The research began by understanding the existing theory of reverse value chain. The theory includes a literature review of the value chain from the apparel industry as well as from the other industries. A conceptual framework has been developed by considering processes of reverse value chain such as collection, sorting and reprocessing.

    Consequently, the thesis has undertaken a mix method (qualitative and quantitative) approach to study the reuse-based reverse value chain. An exploratory method based on multiple case studies has been adopted to explore the current sustainable practices of apparel reuse. Organizations were visited and unstructured interviews were conducted with founder and senior managers. The results have been utilized to develop an empirical model from the current practices of collection, sorting, and reprocessing. Qualitative findings highlight that higher economic recovery depends upon efficient reprocessing and collaborations with different stakeholders of the reverse value chain of apparel. Thus, an efficient resource recovery is economical as well as environmentally sustainable. Engagement of marginalized and vulnerable sections of society in the reverse value chain of apparel contributes towards social sustainability.

    The empirical model was further strengthened by mathematical model formulation. Analytical hierarchy process, Genetic algorithm and Markov principle have been used for the analysis of reuse-based reverse value chain. The thesis provides theoretical contribution, implications and ways to improve the current practice of apparel reuse along with providing scope for future research.

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  • 11.
    Pennlert, Julia
    Umeå Universitet .
    Poesi pågår - en studie av Poeter.se 2003-20162018Doctoral thesis, monograph (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    This dissertation presents a study of Poeter.se, a Swedish web community for reading and writing poetry. The aim is to examine and analyze how a literary community online works, how the writers present themselves as authors and how conventions connected to poetry migrate into or are negotiated in the digital environment. The vast amount of material published on the website during the time-period 2003-2016 (2 million comments and about 860 000 poems) makes it imperative to raise questions about methodology and the dissertation highlights how a researcher dealing with digital material can combine methods. 

    The study is divided into six chapters in which I use different theoretical frameworks, such as the concept of digital paratexts, theories and discussions about the function of the author in a digital media landscape, and media-specific theories about how reading and writing can be approached when they occur online. The central research questions are: What characterizes the connection between genre-specific traits in poetry and the digital platform on which they are published? What kind of relations can be seen between the participants and their publication patterns, and the website? How do the members present their writing and their participation at the site?

  • 12.
    Rousta, Kamran
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Household waste sorting at the source: A procedure for improvement2018Doctoral thesis, monograph (Other academic)
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  • 13.
    Zimmerman, Fredrik
    University of Borås, Faculty of Librarianship, Information, Education and IT.
    Det tillåtande och det begränsande: En studie om pojkars syn på studier och ungdomars normer kring maskulinitet2018Doctoral thesis, monograph (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    Girls preform generally better than boys in school. In many schools the dominant norms of masculinity are a hinder for boys to preform in school. Schools with a dominating “anti school culture” or a “effortless achievement culture” among the boys are examples of this. These norms of masculinity are also a hinder for girls to show their ability in different subjects. The overall aim of the thesis is to study boy’s view on studying and it´s relation to norms of masculinity. It also focuses on the question if the ability to study is gendered. The collecting of data was done through an ethnographic inspired study where 15 group interviews and different kind of observations was used. Two classes, class 9d and 9e, in year nine in a secondary school was followed during a three-month period. Class 9d consisted of 20 pupils (13 girls and 7 boys) and 9e consisted of 19 pupils (9 girls and 10 boys). Around half of the pupils came from a working class home and the other half had parents with collar professions. Around one forth of the pupils had a history of immigration in the family In conclusion a “study culture” was dominating among the boys. The norm among both the girls and the boys was that you should study. Boys could openly study ambitious without any social cost. With a social cost I mean being teased, ridiculed or losing status in the social context. This norm was beneficial for both girls and boys at the school. The result shows that challenging a “anti school culture” or a “effortless achievement culture” is of great importance for both sexes. Despite their being at dominant “study culture” among the boys, girls on average still preform better than boys. This was because the ability to study was gendered. So even if boys were “allowed” to study as ambitious as girls without any social cost, they haven’t developed the same ability to do so because of different social expectations on girls and boys. In other words, did parallel and contradicting norms exist at the school. Some norms were “allowing” boys to study ambitious, other norms was “limiting” and a hinder for boys to do this.

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