Change search
Refine search result
1 - 24 of 24
CiteExportLink to result list
Permanent link
Cite
Citation style
  • harvard-cite-them-right
  • apa
  • ieee
  • modern-language-association-8th-edition
  • vancouver
  • Other style
More styles
Language
  • de-DE
  • en-GB
  • en-US
  • fi-FI
  • nn-NO
  • nn-NB
  • sv-SE
  • Other locale
More languages
Output format
  • html
  • text
  • asciidoc
  • rtf
Rows per page
  • 5
  • 10
  • 20
  • 50
  • 100
  • 250
Sort
  • Standard (Relevance)
  • Author A-Ö
  • Author Ö-A
  • Title A-Ö
  • Title Ö-A
  • Publication type A-Ö
  • Publication type Ö-A
  • Issued (Oldest first)
  • Issued (Newest first)
  • Created (Oldest first)
  • Created (Newest first)
  • Last updated (Oldest first)
  • Last updated (Newest first)
  • Disputation date (earliest first)
  • Disputation date (latest first)
  • Standard (Relevance)
  • Author A-Ö
  • Author Ö-A
  • Title A-Ö
  • Title Ö-A
  • Publication type A-Ö
  • Publication type Ö-A
  • Issued (Oldest first)
  • Issued (Newest first)
  • Created (Oldest first)
  • Created (Newest first)
  • Last updated (Oldest first)
  • Last updated (Newest first)
  • Disputation date (earliest first)
  • Disputation date (latest first)
Select
The maximal number of hits you can export is 250. When you want to export more records please use the Create feeds function.
  • 1.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    EXPRESSIONS OF DISCARDED DESIGN DECISIONS #42023Other (Refereed)
  • 2.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Form is making2012In: Form is making, 2012Conference paper (Refereed)
  • 3.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Fotoserie, untitled 20092009Other (Other academic)
  • 4.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Knitted Knots2015In: Knitted Knots, 2015Conference paper (Refereed)
  • 5.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    On form thinking in knitwear design2013Licentiate thesis, monograph (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    This licentiate thesis presents and discusses experimental explorations in search for new methods of form-thinking within the knitwear design process. The position of textile knitting techniques is somewhat ambiguous. This is because they are not only concerned with creating the textile material, but also with the form of the garment as these two are created in the same process. Consequently, the common perception of form and material as two separate design parameters can be questioned when it comes to knitting. Instead, we may view it as a design process that has a single design parameter; a design process in which the notion of form provides the conceptual foundation. Through conducting a series of design experiments using knitting and crochet techniques, the notion of form was explored from the perspective of the way in which we make a garment. The outcome of the experiments showed that there are possibilities for development of alternative working methods in knitwear design by viewing form in terms of topological invariants rather than as abstract geometrical silhouettes. If such a notion, i.e. a notion of a more concrete geometry, were to be implemented in the design process for knitwear, it would provide another link between action and expression that could deepen our understanding of the design potential of knitting techniques and provide the field with new expressions and gestalts.

    Download full text (pdf)
    fulltext
  • 6.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    The Myth of the Silhouette: On form thinking in knitwear design2015Doctoral thesis, monograph (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    This thesis presents and discusses the results of foundational experimental designresearch in the field of fashion design methodology, with a particular focus onknitwear. The research explored and broadened the foundations of form-thinkingin the design process for knitwear and knitting, with the objective of developingalternative form-concepts and working methods relevant to practitioners andstudents active in the field.

    Knitting is not simply designing using yet another technique; it is designing from adifferent perspective. When making a knitted item, no material has to be preparedbeforehand, as material and item can be created at one and the same time. Thus,the prevalent distinction between form and material as two separate parameters inthe design process for knitwear can be questioned. Hence, developing the designprocess for knitwear by focusing on alternative ways of understanding the notionof form is of great significance as regards further developments in the wider field ofknit and knitwear design.

    The key aim of the research was to replace the silhouette – used as a guidingprinciple in form thinking – with the notion of invariants, which define what wedo as we knit a given garment. The notion of invariants used in this thesis comesfrom topology, and refers to properties that do not change under non-destructivetransformations. The form of the garment is then given by basic invariants, whichdefine what we build and how we build it. As these properties do not changeunder non-destructive transformations, they do not suggest a specific silhouettewith regard to ready-made garments, but rather a more fundamental form, whichcharacterises the garment throughout making and use. Employed in this way,the notion of an invariant introduces a form of concrete geometry which focusesdirectly on the specifics of making.

    Several initial experiments are described in brief, and this is followed by a discussionof the three more elaborate design experiments which led to the development of atheoretical framework. This is then exemplified with the last design experiment, inwhich theory informs the set-up, and consequently shows the design potentials ofthe suggested method.

    Download (pdf)
    inside
    Download (pdf)
    cover
  • 7.
    Landahl, Karin
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Malmgren de Oliveira, Stefanie
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Expressions of discarded design decisions #1: to layer2022Other (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Exhibited Artefact

    Carefully placed on top of each other, the discarded sweaters, devalued and unsellable, pile up into layers of knit, shapes, structures, textures and colours – a mille-feuille of discarded design decisions. In the act of layering, new expressions arise, inviting one in seeing newpossibilities, potentials, ideas, and fantasy to dive into, and to explore. The artefact consistsof 50 discarded knitwear garments, sorted and donated by the non-profit organisation Björkåfrihet.Knitwear is among the most difficult of garment categories to resell due to its changingproperties. The garments are used in their given state without any further sorting or manipulation.

    Role of Artefacts in this Research Project

    The role of the artefact in our research practice is to visualize and communicateexplorations and developments of design theory and practice. The physical examples holda generative role, to evoke questions, visualize reasoning and inform the development ofthe thought process towards abstracted concepts and theory building. Hence the artefactembodies concepts and knowledge made available only through its existence. The physical example in our work generates and communicates knowledge and thoughts. It is both question and answer, both exploration and theory. The artefact serves to develop the theory in theprocess, the resulting artefact is the theory in concrete means. ‘Such a discovery can be founded on a very sudden, or more gradual, insight. It is a matter of “seeing”, in this case seeing that there is a certain substance/element with certain remarkable properties.’ (Hallnäs, 2018)

  • 8.
    Landahl, Karin
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Malmgren de Oliveira, Stefanie
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    RE-DESIGN FOR PRE-DESIGN: discarded garments as a tool for garment-based learning in fashion knitwear design education2022In: Fashion Reimagine, 2022, p. 216-227Conference paper (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    The level of complexity in designing and making knitwear is high, as it entails learning about both textile construction techniques and form-building. This research explores the potential of discarded knit garments as a learning tool in fashion knitwear design within higher education, to bridge the gap between translating small-scale two-dimensional knitted samples into a garment collection. Digital sketching and virtual sampling are not sufficient for the full understanding of knitwear design. Practice-based learning is key to fully grasping the potential of the knits. In addition to foundational technology and practice, existing garments can also be considered to be an open source for deriving technical knowledge and a basis for design ideation. In order to explore the potential of garment-based learning in knitwear design processes, a three-and-a-half day workshop was conducted within a basic knitting course for first-year BA Fashion Design students. The participants were divided into groups and instructed to select, analyse, and create new knitted designs using discarded garments, and to reflect on their learning outcomes. The knowledge gained during the workshop bridged the gap between the knit samples and the garment collection making. In their reflections, the students expressed a deeper understanding of various knit properties, structures, and technologies in relation to knitted garment forms and details, as being useful learning outcomes from the workshop, which they were then able to apply to their collection making processes. The collaborative, interactive, and communicative nature of the group work in relation to processes and actions was expressed to be highly beneficial, and the inclusive approach of sharing knowledge and joint learning facilitated creative and technical development. This ‘re-design for pre-design’ approach deepened the understanding of knitwear design using existing garments – constituting garment- based learning – and suggested a sustainable, practice-based method of learning with a high potential within higher eucation in fashion design. 

    Download full text (pdf)
    fulltext
  • 9.
    Larsen, Ulrik Martin
    et al.
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Malmgren de Oliveira, Stefanie
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Dressed Integrity2012Other (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    Dressed–Integrity presents new logics of expression and functionality in dress and its relation to the body. As an aesthetic research program in dress it is about the fundamental relationship between form and material, between technique and expression. Through the development in art the program aims to challenge the institutions of craft through the appropriation of technology, and through the development science and epistemology the program aims to challenge the institutions of technology through the appropriation of art. The research program is therefore not an empirical research program that aims to introduce new theories about fashion. It is about developing foundational concepts and theoretical propositions of fashion design in and for itself as an academic field with an obvious integrity. As such the exhibition present a few examples of new techniques, methods, models and definitions of dress and its relation to the body, conducted by handful of PhD candidates within the research program in fashion design at the Swedish School of Textiles, Borås, Sweden.

    Download full text (pdf)
    FULLTEXT01
  • 10.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    et al.
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Larsen, Ulrik Martin
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Research proposals: Phds in fashion design2009Other (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    The starting point of three different research projects will be exhibited and the question " What is actually a cardigan?" will be discussed. Karin Landahl, Ulrik Martin Larsen and Rickard Lindqvist are PhD students in fashion design at the Swedish School of Textile. The research in fashion design at the school has its focus on practice based design research with special emphasis on the development of methods for professional and experimental fashion design. Karin Landahls main focus for the research-years ahead is the relation between form and materials sprung from a background in knitwear design. Ulrik Martin Larsens first research project will examine the distinctions between accessory and garment through the creation of objects that straddle the line between these two categories. Rickard Lindqvist has throughout his career worked with pattern cutting as creative method and aims to carry out research on pattern cutting as aesthetics.

    Download full text (pdf)
    FULLTEXT01
  • 11.
    Malmgren de Oliveira, Stefanie
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Expressions of discarded design decisions as a reflective tool to rethink fashion education2023Conference paper (Refereed)
  • 12.
    Malmgren de Oliveira, Stefanie
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    From past to future design decisions: Exploring the garment as instigator of change2023Conference paper (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    The research project presented in this article investigated the role of the garment as an instigator of change through a series of practice-based experiments. Twenty-five knit garments, which had been discarded due to their being unsellable post-consumer waste materials, were collected and used to explore the potential of past design decisions The group of garments was considered to be a single design material to work with and reflect upon. A data analysis was conducted on the material with regard to fibre composition, colour, production country, structure, and shapes, before a series of experiments was conducted. Rather than being used to create a permanent artefact or a fixed form, the garments remained loose, plastic pieces throughout the research process, in order to be redefined through new actions to lead to the generation of new artefacts. Each experiment in the series ‘Expressions of Discarded Design Decisions’ was documented and numbered before the next was undertaken. Past design decisions, made during the production of garments, present a set of design variables and properties that can be used as a foundation for defining future design decisions. The design examples created as part of this experiment series raise questions, generate knowledge, and stimulate new thoughts in relation to the changing role of the designer and the process of searching for and adapting to new areas. The reflective framework suggested in this article posits the garment as an instigator of change, and has the potential to catalyse new ideas and methods for design practice and pedagogy.  

    The result is a shift in perspective from the notion of ‘discarded garments’ to that of ‘discarded design decisions´. This points to the responsibility of the designer and opens up for new possibilities regarding rethinking habitual modes and procedures for new visions, ideas, theories, and practices.

  • 13.
    Malmgren de Oliveira, Stefanie
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Independence and Flexibility: A Case Study on a Small-Scale Creative Producer and Its Potential for Rethinking Pedagogical Models Within Higher Education in Fashion Design2021Conference paper (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    In the paper that the session draws upon, a case study on a small-scale creative producer in fashion design in Gothenburg, Sweden was conducted which led to conclusions relating to fashion design education. 

    The session acknowledges that with the common outsourcing of production, there is a division between ideation and production processes in fashion. Conversely, at small-scale creative producers the two phases are intertwined, constituting a melting pot for innovative forms and ideas for new organizations and creative leadership. In turn, this facilitates sustainable approaches within the design as well as economic processes. This case study was conducted through interviews with the founder, designer and creative director of industry, Rickard Lindqvist, where three main areas were looked into; new organizational forms and innovative leadership that have been generated within this local small-scale creative producer, the challenges of new organizational forms and innovative leadership that this small-scale creative business had to face, and the meeting of economic sustainability and design skills within the business.

    The interviews highlighted several key elements in how to form a sustainable small scale creative production with innovation and development in focus. Key elements were identified; synced team building, development of business models as part of the design process, collaborations, openness to new craft approaches, digitalization, open source and self-leadership. Rather than as a separate process, the production process is here viewed as a source for ideation. A division between ideation and production risks overlooking possibilities for conscious sustainable design decisions embedded in the production process.

    Independence and flexibility were emphasized in this case study as being of main importance for resilience in the challenges of future innovative developments, on organizational, design and production level, but evenly on a creative director’s level. In the context of higher education in fashion design, the talk will conclude that there’s a need to further develop and strengthen above core values - independence and flexibility- through pedagogic strategies and principles within course syllabi, aiming to facilitate the forming of innovative and economically sustainable design organizations. 

  • 14.
    Landahl, Karin (Creator)
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    DRAFTS: Design Research Artifacts as an Intermediary Knowledge: Research Exhibition at Pakistan Institute of Fashion and Design (PIFD), Lahore, Pakistan2021Artistic output (Refereed)
  • 15.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    DRAFTS: Design Research Artifacts in the Context of Exhibition; 1st International Art Triennial Unpredictable Futures: Nenuspejamos Ateitys (UFNA) at Lithuanian Museum of Ethnocosmology and Moletai Region Museum, Lithuania2021Artistic output (Refereed)
  • 16.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Malmgren de Oliveira, Stefanie
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    EXPRESSIONS OF DISCARDED DESIGN DECISIONS #1: TO LAYER2022Artistic output (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Exhibited at Drafts 3.

  • 17.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Malmgren de Oliveira, Stefanie
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    EXPRESSIONS OF DISCARDED DESIGN DECISIONS #2: TO WEAR2022Artistic output (Refereed)
  • 18.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Malmgren de Oliveira, Stefanie
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    EXPRESSIONS OF DISCARDED DESIGN DECISIONS #3: TO KNOT2023Artistic output (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Exhibited at Drafts 4.

  • 19.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Malmgren de Oliveira, Stefanie
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    EXPRESSIONS OF DISCARDED DESIGN DECISIONS #42023Artistic output (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Exhibited at Drafts 4.

  • 20.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Malmgren de Oliveira, Stefanie
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    EXPRESSIONS OF DISCARDED DESIGN DECISIONS #42023Artistic output (Refereed)
  • 21.
    Malmgren de Oliveira, Stefanie
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Expressions of Discarded Design Decisions #6_Diluted Rolling2024Artistic output (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    The artistic outputs focus on similarities between cultures, explorations of artefacts with connotations of cultural translation involving active processes of identification in terms of how materials and expressions are used to create relational aesthetics, and alternative approaches to modernity.  Any further information? : Expressions of Discarded Design Decisions #6_Diluted Rolling consists of post-consumer waste garments selected through the lens of diverse geographic origins of textile patterns. With a majority of the garments being produced by fast fashion companies they are characterized by low quality materials and production methods. But also on a design level, the design decisions taken reflect that of a rapid production approach where expressions of textile patterns are worked in a compromising way and the outcome represents a diluted version of the original pattern. In the video sequence the pattern origins start to blend whilst showcasing similarities through the act of rolling them together. The relations between the diluted expressions of the design materials become apparent. Rather than designing, this work suggests a viewing of post-consumer materials as an act of non-designing. In this moment of pause a space for new streams of thoughts that opens up, inviting for alternative perspectives of reflection.

    Download (png)
    Diasporic Bodies
  • 22.
    Landahl, Karin (Researcher)
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Garment 14 holes2011Artistic output (Refereed)
  • 23.
    Landahl, Karin (Researcher)
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Garment 14 holes2011Artistic output (Refereed)
  • 24.
    Landahl, Karin (Researcher)
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Knitted Knots2015Artistic output (Refereed)
1 - 24 of 24
CiteExportLink to result list
Permanent link
Cite
Citation style
  • harvard-cite-them-right
  • apa
  • ieee
  • modern-language-association-8th-edition
  • vancouver
  • Other style
More styles
Language
  • de-DE
  • en-GB
  • en-US
  • fi-FI
  • nn-NO
  • nn-NB
  • sv-SE
  • Other locale
More languages
Output format
  • html
  • text
  • asciidoc
  • rtf