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  • 1.
    Larsen, Ulrik Martin
    et al.
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Malmgren de Oliveira, Stefanie
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Dressed Integrity2012Other (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    Dressed–Integrity presents new logics of expression and functionality in dress and its relation to the body. As an aesthetic research program in dress it is about the fundamental relationship between form and material, between technique and expression. Through the development in art the program aims to challenge the institutions of craft through the appropriation of technology, and through the development science and epistemology the program aims to challenge the institutions of technology through the appropriation of art. The research program is therefore not an empirical research program that aims to introduce new theories about fashion. It is about developing foundational concepts and theoretical propositions of fashion design in and for itself as an academic field with an obvious integrity. As such the exhibition present a few examples of new techniques, methods, models and definitions of dress and its relation to the body, conducted by handful of PhD candidates within the research program in fashion design at the Swedish School of Textiles, Borås, Sweden.

  • 2.
    Larsson, Jonas Larsson
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Pal, Rudrajeet
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business. Atacac AB.
    Johansson, Mats
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Hernandez, Niina
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    From Roll to Bag: D5.2 Final Product Construction Report2016Report (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    This is the final product construction report for the From Roll to Bag project. The purpose of this report is to present the implementation of the new pattern technology to selected products and to present the modularity for consumer selection. For fulfilling the tasks (5.1 and 5.2) two garments where chosen, one jacket and one shirt, and customization options regarding fit, model, colour and function were developed for each of them. This includes implementation of novel pattern technology to products, graphics, a product architecture with customisation options and initial production tests to verify perfect fit in production and later in use. The more challenging part was to guarantee manufacturability as the patterns require automated manufacturing equipment due to their detailed construction and the pattern matching. Such equipment includes a cutter with a scanner that identifies the outline of the printed pattern and cuts accoringly. If garments with less detailed graphics are considered for production, pre-dyed fabrics can be used and that requires less investments in manufacturing equipment. Such set up would miss one point of the project but in the tradeoff between investment cost and product price point it may be a viable solution. The garments and customization modules are also fit for production but in order to achieve a detailed production evaluation with exact production times and material consumption a long run of products is needed. Considerations about customer’s experiences in this type value chains are also discussed.

  • 3.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Covers2010Other (Other academic)
    Abstract [sv]

    Kan man förhålla sig till, och arbeta med, mode på samma sätt som musiker arbetar när de spelar in en skiva med covers? Tanken bakom Covers var att göra en kollektion med covers på andra konstnärer och designers som intresserade mig ur ett tillskärningsperspektiv.

  • 4.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Covers2010Other (Other academic)
    Abstract [sv]

    Kan man förhålla sig till, och arbeta med, mode på samma sätt som musiker arbetar när de spelar in en skiva med covers? Tanken bakom Covers var att göra en kollektion med covers på andra konstnärer och designers som intresserade mig ur ett tillskärningsperspektiv.

  • 5.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Covers på Cocktail2011Other (Other academic)
    Abstract [sv]

    Covers på cocktail Liksom en samlingsskiva med covers på nittonhundratals hits har studenter från Textilhögskolan i Borås under ledning av Rickard Lindqvist satt samman en utställning med nytolkningar av klassiska klänningarna från Röhsskas samlingar. I slutet av augusti draperade studenter från Textilhögskolan i Borås replikor av klänningarna i Röhsskas Cocktail utställning. Dessa replikor har sedan legat till grund för ett utvecklings- och tolkningsarbete där studenterna har reproducerat klänningarna med en metodik jämförbar med att spela musikaliska covers. Att kopiera det man finner intressant ser jag som något högst nödvändigt för att en utveckling ska ske. Det kräver ett intresse, ett engagemang och en medvetenhet. Man undersöker originalet och vidareutvecklar det och samtidigt sin förmåga att se, utvärdera och skapa. En av modets grundessenser är att återskapa historien i perfekt samklang med nuet. Den perfekta kollektionen är en som upplevs som banbrytande och ny men där det samtidigt finns igenkänningsfaktorer och gemensamma referenser. Strävan efter originalitet från grunden och ignorans av historien är kanske den moderna mänsklighetens största misstag. Ska det till någon genuin progression inom modet och inte bara skapas nonsenskreationer måste dagens designers vara medvetna om historien och träna sin förmåga att se potentialen inom den.

  • 6.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Expressions through cutting2011Conference paper (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    A presentation of examples of cutting as design method.

  • 7.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Instruction techniques for an exploratory fashion design2012Conference paper (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    "-We are like dwarfs on the shoulders of giants”, John of Salisbury’s famous quote, later made even more famous by Newton, is often used to explain how researchers, artists, or whoever, uses previous knowledge to build upon when exploring the new. Those impressive giants of fashion, Poiret, Vionnet, Balenciaga, Yamamoto, just to mention a few, how do we get up on their shoulders and how can we be able to see what they saw and possibly even further? This paper will highlight that educating designers only differs slightly from training athletes. When teaching new techniques the area of training is broken down to graspable components and focus is on one muscle or move at a time. One first needs to get every individual step right, then our performance might improve. Copying is needed for developing creativity, repeating the past is one of the corner stones within fashion design. If I would need to put forward one formula for making a successful fashion collection I would say that the collection should be perceived as totally new and groundbreaking while at the same time being familiar and recognizable to the viewer. To achieving this one will need to bring in aspects already familiar to the audience but we need to bring copying further than that. I will show that imitation is not only a fundamental activity when learning practical skills but also has an essential part in teaching creativity.

  • 8.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Kinetic garment construction: remarks on the foundations of pattern cutting2015Doctoral thesis, monograph (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    Fashion designers are presented with a range of different methods for pattern cutting, and the interest in this field has grown rapidly over the past few years. This growth is both due to the publication of a number of works dealing with the subject in different ways and the fact that a growing number of designers emphasise cutting in their creative practices.

    Though a range of methods and concepts for pattern cutting are presented, the main body of these methods, both traditional and contemporary, is predominately based on a theoretical approximation of the body that is derived from horizontal and vertical measurements of the body in an upright position: the tailoring matrix. As a consequence, there is a lack of interactive and dynamic qualities in methods connected to this paradigm of garment construction, from both expressional and functional perspectives.

    This work proposes and explores an alternative paradigm for pattern cutting that includes a new theoretical approximation of the body as well as a more kinetic method for garment construction that, unlike the prevalent theory and its related methods, takes as its point of origin the interaction between the anisotropic fabric and the biomechanical structure of the body. As such, the research conducted here is basic research, aiming to identify fundamental principles for garment construction. Based on some key principles found in the works of Geneviève Sevin-Doering and in pre-tailoring methods for constructing garments, the proposed theory for – and method of – garment construction was developed through concrete experiments by cutting and draping fabrics on live models.

    Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the result is a kinetic construction theory of the body that is comprised of balance directions and key biomechanical points, along with an alternative draping method for dressmaking. This methodology challenges the fundamental relationship between dress, garment construction, and the body, working from the body outward, as opposed to the methods that are based on the prevalent paradigm of the tailoring matrix, which work from the outside toward the body. This alternative theory for understanding the body and the proposed method of working allows for diverse expressions and enhanced functional possibilities in dress.

  • 9.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Kulturkalaset: mode på Götaplatsen2010In: Röhsska2, ISSN 0347-9374Article, book review (Other academic)
  • 10.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Mörk kostym2012Other (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    If the expression of the body is the focal point, and how this expression is transformed by dressing it in fabric, a more reflective study of the body from a dressmakers perspective might be meaningful for the development of new design methods. “Mörk kostym 2012” aspires to both challenge and preserve the art of tailoring. Challenge tailoring methodologically in construction, hence propose an alternative view upon the body, meanwhile preserve it by utilizing traditional methods of making. The jacket and the trousers are two examples, using the “La coupe en un seul morceau” method developed by French costumier Genevieve Sevin-Doering, here a piece of fabric is sculptured into a garment on a living body, from which a new logic is extracted proposing an alternative way of approaching the body while cutting garments. The theory is visualised in a number of gravity and balance lines on the body to initiate the work of cutting, draping and fitting garments from and certain points proposing where on the body to address the foundational cuts. These garments are cut from one single piece of fabric however the number of pieces composing the garments are of less significance. The one-piece principal can be compared to a beautiful proof in mathematics, or the simplest equation explaining a series of experiments, the proof could be written differently, in any number of pieces, but the simplicity expresses the theory more clear.

  • 11.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    On the logic of pattern cutting: foundational cuts and approximations of the body2013Conference paper (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Fashion designers are presented with a range of principles for pattern cutting. However, the main body of these systems are predominately based on a quantified approximation of the body. As a consequence, the connection of existing models for pattern construction to the dynamic expression of the body and its biomechanical functions is problematic. This work explores and proposes an alternative model for pattern cutting that, unlike the existing models, takes as its point of origin the actual, variable body. Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the proposed model for cutting garments is based on a qualitative approximation of the body, visualised through balance lines and key biomechanical points. The model is developed through concrete experiments by cutting and draping fabrics on live models. Hence, the research conducted here is basic research, aiming to identify fundamental principles in order to create alternative expression and functions.

  • 12.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    On the logic of pattern cutting: foundational cuts and approximations of the body2013Licentiate thesis, monograph (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    Fashion designers are presented with a range of different principles for pattern cutting and the interest in this area has grown rapidly over the past few years, both due to the publication of a number of works dealing with the subject in different ways and the fact that a growing number of designers emphasise cutting in their practices. Although a range of principles and concepts for pattern cutting are presented from different perspectives, the main body of these systems, traditional as well as contemporary, are predominately based on a quantified approximation of the body. As a consequence, the connection of existing models for pattern construction to the dynamic expression of the body or the biomechanic function of the body is problematic. This work explores and proposes an alternative model for pattern cutting that, unlike the existing models, takes as its point of origin the actual, variable body. As such, the research conducted here is basic research, aiming to identify fundamental principles in order to create alternative expression and functions. Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the proposed model for cutting garments is based on a qualitative approximation of the body, visualised through balance lines and key biomechanic points. Based on some key principles found in the works by Geneviève Sevin-Doering, the proposed model for cutting is developed through concrete experiments by cutting and draping fabrics on live models. The result of a proposed model is an alternative principle for dressmaking that challenges the fundamental relationship between dress, pattern making and the body, opening up for new expressions in dress and functional possibilities for wearing.

  • 13.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    The transformative cuts: new foundations in pattern cutting and approximations of the body2014Conference paper (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Fashion designers are presented with a range of different principles for pattern cutting, and interest in this area has grown rapidly over the past few years, due to both the publication of a number of works dealing with the subject in different ways, and the fact that a growing number of designers emphasise experimental pattern cutting in their practices. Although a range of principles and concepts for pattern cutting are presented from different per¬spectives, the main body of these systems, traditional as well as contemporary, are predominantly based on a quantified approximation of the body. As a consequence, the connection between existing theories for pattern construction and the dynamic expression and biomechanical func¬tion of the body are problematic. This work explores and proposes an alternative theory for pattern cutting, which unlike exist¬ing models takes as its point of origin the actual, variable body. As such, the research presented here is basic research. Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the proposed model for cutting garments is based on a qualitative approximation of the body, visualised through balance lines and key biomechanical points. Based on some key principles found in works by Geneviève Sevin-Doering, the proposed model for cutting is developed through concrete experiments by cut¬ting and draping fabrics on live models. The proposed theory is an alternative principle for dressmaking, which challenges the fundamental relationship between dress, pattern making, and the body, opening up for new expressions in dress and functional possibilities for wearing.

  • 14.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    et al.
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Andersen, Fredrick
    Dandy2010Other (Other academic)
    Abstract [sv]

    Dandyn är en olöst gåta, ett mysterium. I utställningen får besökaren vara med på Nordiska museets spaning efter honom. Många har försökt svara på vem han är, hur han ser ut och var han kommer ifrån. För vissa är dandyn en specifik person, för andra en stil eller ett förhållningssätt. I utställningen får vi följa dandyn i en labyrint genom tid och rum. Vi synar honom i sömmarna och närgranskar detaljer i hans dräkt. I sökandet efter dandyismens essens är varje uttryck en viktig ledtråd. En dandy är en person som med integritet vill uttrycka sig genom sina kläder oavsett om stilen är lågmäld, färgstark, konservativ eller nytänkande. Utställningen synar honom i sömmarna. Ingen detalj är oviktig. I utställningen ges förslag på hur dandyn kan te sig idag. Skräddaren Frederik Andersen, modeforskaren Rickard Lindqvist, journalisten Olof Enckell, stylisten Lalle Johnsson, författaren Björn af Kleen, designern Göran Sundberg och butiksägaren Christian Quaglia har fått styla förslag av moderna dandys.

  • 15.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    et al.
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Eklöf, Andreas
    Cuts2011Other (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    Cuts by Rickard Lindqvist and Andreas Eklöf The aim of the Cuts project is to merge print design and pattern cutting within the practise of fashion design. Working within a tradition of cutting with only one pattern piece, established by French costume designer Genevieve Sevin-Doering, the project developed out of a selection Rickard's pattern archive. Instead of seeing print design and pattern cutting as two separated activities the cutting pattern becomes the print, which then becomes the cutting template. A printed line replaces the cutting line and no fabric is cut away in the making of the garments. The printed patterns are exhibited in there own right alongside with the garments made out of them. The beauty in the lines of the cutting is as important any other line in the garment composition.

  • 16.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    et al.
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Eklöf, Andreas
    Cuts2011Other (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    Cuts by Rickard Lindqvist and Andreas Eklöf The aim of the Cuts project is to merge print design and pattern cutting within the practise of fashion design. Working within a tradition of cutting with only one pattern piece, established by French costume designer Genevieve Sevin-Doering, the project developed out of a selection Rickard's pattern archive. Instead of seeing print design and pattern cutting as two separated activities the cutting pattern becomes the print, which then becomes the cutting template. A printed line replaces the cutting line and no fabric is cut away in the making of the garments. The printed patterns are exhibited in there own right alongside with the garments made out of them. The beauty in the lines of the cutting is as important any other line in the garment composition.

  • 17.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    et al.
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Larsen, Ulrik Martin
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Research proposals: Phds in fashion design2009Other (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    The starting point of three different research projects will be exhibited and the question " What is actually a cardigan?" will be discussed. Karin Landahl, Ulrik Martin Larsen and Rickard Lindqvist are PhD students in fashion design at the Swedish School of Textile. The research in fashion design at the school has its focus on practice based design research with special emphasis on the development of methods for professional and experimental fashion design. Karin Landahls main focus for the research-years ahead is the relation between form and materials sprung from a background in knitwear design. Ulrik Martin Larsens first research project will examine the distinctions between accessory and garment through the creation of objects that straddle the line between these two categories. Rickard Lindqvist has throughout his career worked with pattern cutting as creative method and aims to carry out research on pattern cutting as aesthetics.

  • 18.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    et al.
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Malmgren de Oliveira, Stefanie
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Vanishing realities2012Other (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    With a belief that the core of fashion is to recreate the past in perfect congruence with the present together with a photo by Stefanie to set the mood we turned to Marcel Proust for guidance. In his novel In search of lost times Proust introduces the concept of involuntary memories. The taste of the Madeleine cookie evokes Swann’s involuntary memory of things that have vanished over times. How can we through fashion evoke involuntary memories? If the garments are vanishing into transparency will that evoke our involuntary memories of bodies and dresses. If only half a lapel is appearing will that evoke our involuntary memories of coats we used to wear? Isn’t a good piece of fashion one that reminds us of the past but at the same time gives us a feeling of being totally here now? Exploring the themes of form and memory through vanishing details and fabrics. This is carried out through the cuts in detail and silhouette and through the use of prints and ausbrenner treatment of the fabrics.

  • 19.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    et al.
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Thornquist, Clemens
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Enhanced construction technology for ergonomic clothing: A new approximation of the body and system for garment construction.2014Conference paper (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    This paper explores the ergonomic and functional possibilities of a recently developed new principle of construction technology for garments based on a new approximation of the human body in garment development. Although there are several different principles of pattern construction, the far majority are derived from the same approximation of the body based on horizontal and vertical measurements. Based on Lindqvist’s[1] model for enhance pattern technology, building on a number of key biomechanical point and balance lines instead of horizontal and vertical measurements of the body, this paper demonstrates the potential of the proposed technology in two garments for a specific function. The relevance of this new garment construction technology is significance because it presents a previously unknown model to construct garments with significantly increased ergonomics and agility as well as presenting a new theory of

1 - 19 of 19
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  • harvard1
  • ieee
  • modern-language-association-8th-edition
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