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  • 1.
    Hernández, Niina
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Berglin, Lena
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    A Systematic Model for Improving Theoretical Garment Fit2018In: Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, ISSN 1361-2026, Vol. 22, no 4, p. 527-539Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Purpose

    The purpose of this paper is to use a systematic model for detecting misfit between the garment and the target group.

    Design/methodology/approach

    Using an empirical–analytical methodology, the systematic model was tested. The input data were run through the model to generate the output data, which were analysed, including basic statistics. The purpose of the analysis was to detect misfit and improve the garment measurement chart. This procedure was repeated until a clear result was reached.

    Findings

    The result of this study is an optimised garment measurement chart, which considers the garment’s ease, different sizes/proportions in relation to a target group. The results show that it is possible to use a systematic model to define the shortcomings of a garment´s range of sizes and proportions.

    Research limitations/implications

    Further studies are needed to verify the results of the theoretical garment fit and their values in relation to real garment fit.

    Practical implications

    If the systematic model is implemented to improve the theoretical garment fit, this may have effects on the available garment sizes and its proportions, resulting in increased theoretical garment fit for the target group.

    Originality/value

    The paper presents a systematic model for detecting and eliminating theoretical fitting; the model includes both garment ease allowance and defined points of misfit.

  • 2.
    Hernández, Niina
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Does it really fit?: improve, find and evaluate garment fit2018Doctoral thesis, comprehensive summary (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    Clothes affect everyone; we wear them for all occasions; they silently communicate on our behalf, and they can enhance our level of confidence and comfort. For the garment to be comfortable, the garment fit has to be appropriate. Appropriate for the intended function and in line with the wearer’s preferences. For the garment to end up as an approved garment in the customer’s wardrobe, it has to be improved and evaluated many times over. The final evaluation to pass is when the customer finds the garment, tries it on and asks: Does it really fit? The common denominator for the studies included in this thesis is garment fit; the goal is to investigate some methods to improve, find and evaluate garment fit. To improve garment fit, two studies were done. One study is on improving garment fit with the help of a systematic model, based on anthropometric and garment numerical data; this is explored with the help of an experimental set up. The second study is on improving garment fit for the unique figure by offering made-to-measure garments, which is investigated with a structure of action research. An experimental strategy is used to find garments that fit, where the size and fit correspondence is compared between virtual and real garments. To tie everything together, variables for garment fit evaluation are identified with the help of a structured literature review and then analysed within each study. The result shows that the theoretical garment fit improves by using the systematic model. Both the overall accommodation for the target group increased as well as the fit value. The garment fit is improved for the unique figure; this is achieved through complex body measurements, invasive pattern modifications and garment make-up for fit evaluation. The accuracy for size selection based on virtual garments exceeded the one based on the more traditional key measurements. The variables involved in the garment fit evaluation can be divided into five areas: influencing factors, evaluations focus, resources, evaluators or fitting sessions.

  • 3.
    Hernández, Niina
    Gothenburg University.
    Tailoring the Unique Figure2000Licentiate thesis, monograph (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    Today, it is possible to offer customers a garment to order according to their desires and body figure. The new, more automatic, equipment and software make the process faster and possible to realise. However it is important to have the basic knowledge about how to adapt the patterns according to the many variations of figures that exists. Pattern construction for unique figures is covered in this study. The report begins with a background to the problem concerning finding suitable garments, followed by earlier initiatives. The main body of the study contains three main sections: body figure registration – including measurements, single pattern adaptations, and individual patterns.

  • 4.
    Hernández, Niina
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Mattila, Heikki
    Berglin, Lena
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Can virtual try-on help in selecting the correct size?In: Clothing & Textiles Research Journal, ISSN 0887-302XArticle in journal (Refereed)
  • 5.
    Hernández, Niina
    et al.
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Mattila, Heikki
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Berglin, Lena
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Garment fit by numbers: Statistical identification of a garment's misfit2014Conference paper (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    A challenge for manufacturers of garments is to decide which sizes to make available for a potential target group. Mismatches between the garment’s sizes/proportions and a target group will decrease its fit and increase loss of sales. The purpose of this study is to develop a systematic model to identify and optimize the distribution of a garment’s sizes and proportions in order to provide a target group appropriate fit. This study is based on sample-garment measurements, experienced-based values and data containing body measurements of 2208 individuals. Statistical data from the case were analysed to find a model to detect mismatches between standard garments and a target group. The results show that it is possible to use a systematic model to define the shortcomings of a garment´s range of sizes and proportions. If implemented, this could have effects on the available garment sizes and its proportions, resulting an increased garment fit for a target group.

  • 6.
    Larsson, Jonas Larsson
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Pal, Rudrajeet
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business. Atacac AB.
    Johansson, Mats
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Hernandez, Niina
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    From Roll to Bag: D5.2 Final Product Construction Report2016Report (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    This is the final product construction report for the From Roll to Bag project. The purpose of this report is to present the implementation of the new pattern technology to selected products and to present the modularity for consumer selection. For fulfilling the tasks (5.1 and 5.2) two garments where chosen, one jacket and one shirt, and customization options regarding fit, model, colour and function were developed for each of them. This includes implementation of novel pattern technology to products, graphics, a product architecture with customisation options and initial production tests to verify perfect fit in production and later in use. The more challenging part was to guarantee manufacturability as the patterns require automated manufacturing equipment due to their detailed construction and the pattern matching. Such equipment includes a cutter with a scanner that identifies the outline of the printed pattern and cuts accoringly. If garments with less detailed graphics are considered for production, pre-dyed fabrics can be used and that requires less investments in manufacturing equipment. Such set up would miss one point of the project but in the tradeoff between investment cost and product price point it may be a viable solution. The garments and customization modules are also fit for production but in order to achieve a detailed production evaluation with exact production times and material consumption a long run of products is needed. Considerations about customer’s experiences in this type value chains are also discussed.

  • 7.
    Radon, Anita
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Johansson, Pia
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Sundström, Malin
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Alm, Håkan
    University of Borås, Faculty of Librarianship, Information, Education and IT.
    Behre, Martin
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Göbel, Hannes
    University of Borås, Faculty of Librarianship, Information, Education and IT.
    Hallqvist, Carina
    University of Borås, Faculty of Librarianship, Information, Education and IT.
    Hernandez, Niina
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Hjelm-Lidholm, Sara
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    König, Rikard
    University of Borås, Faculty of Librarianship, Information, Education and IT.
    Lindberg, Ulla
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Löfström, Tuwe
    University of Borås, Faculty of Librarianship, Information, Education and IT.
    Sundell, Håkan
    University of Borås, Faculty of Librarianship, Information, Education and IT.
    Wallström, Stavroula
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    What happens when retail meets research?: Special session2016Conference paper (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    special session Information

    We are witnessing the beginning of a seismic shift in retail due to digitalization. However, what is meant by digitalization is less clear. Sometimes it is understood as means for automatization and sometimes it is regarded as equal to e-commerce. Sometimes digitalization is considered being both automatization and e-commerce trough new technology. In recent years there has been an increase in Internet and mobile devise usage within the retail sector and e-commerce is growing, encompassing both large and small retailers. Digital tools such as, new applications are developing rapidly in order to search for information about products based on price, health, environmental and ethical considerations, and also to facilitate payments. Also the fixed store settings are changing due to digitalization and at an overall level; digitalization will lead to existing business models being reviewed, challenged and ultimately changed. More specifically, digitalization has consequences for all parts of the physical stores including customer interface, knowledge creation, sustainability performance and logistics. As with all major shifts, digitalization comprises both opportunities and challenges for retail firms and employees, and these needs to be empirically studied and systematically analysed. The Swedish Institute for Innovative Retailing at University of Borås is a research centre with the aim of identifying and analysing emerging trends that digitalization brings for the retail industry.

  • 8.
    Rundqvist, Karin
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Hernandez, Niina
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Syrén, Felicia
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Lund, Anja
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Optimising position and pressure of wearable textile sensors to reduce motion artifacts2016Conference paper (Other academic)
  • 9.
    Rundqvist, Karin
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Hernández, Niina
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Syrén, Felicia
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Lund, Anja
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Textile sensor for human motion detection in healthcare applications2015Conference paper (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    Textile sensor for human motion detection in healthcare applications This project aims to develop a wearable and comfortable sensor system useful for continuous monitoring of symptoms of epilepsy and Parkinson´s disease, and progress during rehabilitation after a stroke. The system is to monitor both physiological electrical signals and movement, providing an objective assessment tool for hospital personnel monitoring the wearer’s progress. This gives a possibility to improve diagnosis, monitor disease progression or improvement and tailor treatments. By integrating the wearable sensors into a garment, preferably into the fabric itself, we aim to develop a functional demonstrator that is comfortable enough to be accepted by the patients for daily use. [1] The use of textile sensors in healthcare applications is one step closer to a more comfortable wearable sensor system for continuous measurements. For heart rate detection textile based electrodes in garments have been investigated. e.g. [2] Our current focus is on developing textile sensors for human motion detection, connected to the specific motions regarding the neurological disorders. One approach is to integrate electromechanical properties in the textile structure, creating strain sensitive structures which give an electrical output when stretched mechanically due to movement. When investigating a suitable textile construction developing textile sensors often takes a trial and error approach, which is time consuming. In a recent study[3] we showed that the textile construction influenced the performance of a textile sensor. The study pointed to a need of a more controlled developing method, such as computer simulation, to make more accurate predictions of the sensors performance. By investigating the possibility to combine existing computer simulation programmes, such as Comsol Multiphysics and TexGen, for an assessment of the behaviour and performance of the electromechanical properties of textile structures a new design method for smart textile sensors could be achieved. In an ongoing interdisciplinary research project, wearITmed, partners from healthcare, electronics and textiles development (Sahlgrenska Academy, Acreo ICT, The Swedish School of Textiles, Swerea IVF

  • 10.
    Rundqvist, Karin
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Hernández, Niina
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Syrén, Felicia
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Lund, Anja
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    The Challanges of Textile Sensors in Comfortable Wearable Health Monitoring Systems2016Conference paper (Other academic)
  • 11.
    Soroudi, Azadeh
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Hernández, Niina
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Berglin, Lena
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Electrode placement in electrocardiography smart garments: A review2019In: Journal of Electrocardiology, ISSN 0022-0736, E-ISSN 1532-8430, Vol. 57, p. 27-30Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Wearable Electrocardiography (ECG) sensing textiles have been widely used due to their high flexibility, comfort, reusability and the possibility to be used for home-based and real-time measurements. Textile electrodes are dry and non-adhesive, therefor unlike conventional gel electrodes, they don't cause skin irritation and are more user-friendly especially for long-term and continuous monitoring outside the hospital. However, the challenge with textile electrodes is that the quality and reliability of recorded ECG signals by smart garments are more sensitive to different factors such as electrode placement, skin humidity, user activities and contact pressure. This review will particularly focus on the research findings regarding the influence of electrode placement on the quality of biosignal sensing, and will introduce the methods used by researchers to measure the optimal positions of the electrodes in wearable ECG garments. The review will help the designers to take into account different parameters, which affect the data quality, reliability and comfort, when selecting the electrode placement in a wearable ECG garment.

  • 12.
    Soroudi, Azadeh
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Hernández, Niina
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Wipenmyr, Jan
    Rise Acreo.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Surface modification of textile electrodes to improve electrocardiography signals in wearable smart garment2019In: Journal of materials science. Materials in electronics, ISSN 0957-4522, E-ISSN 1573-482X, Vol. 30, no 17, p. 16666-16675Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Recording high quality biosignals by dry textile electrodes is a common challenge in medical health monitoring garments. The aim of this study was to improve skin–electrode interface and enhance the quality of recorded electrocardiography (ECG) signals by modification of textile electrodes embedded in WearItMed smart garment. The garment has been developed for long-term health monitoring in patients suffering from epilepsy and Parkinson’s disease. A skin-friendly electro-conductive elastic paste was formulated to coat and modify the surface of the knitted textile electrodes. The modifications improved the surface characteristics of the electrodes by promoting a more effective contact area between skin and electrode owing to a more even surface, fewer pores, greater surface stability against touch, and introduction of humidity barrier properties. The modifications decreased the skin–electrode contact impedance, and consequently improved the recorded ECG signals obviously when low pressure was applied to the electrodes, therefore contributed to greater patient comfort. The created contact surface allowed the natural humidity of the skin/sweat to ease the signal transfer between the electrode and the body, while introducing a shorter settling time and retaining moisture over a longer time. Microscopic images, ECG signal measurements, electrode–skin contact impedance at different pressures and times, and water absorbency were measured and reported.

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