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  • 1.
    Hedegård, Lars
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Sustainability in talk and practice – the organization and function of sustainability in local circular retailing2019Conference paper (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    Circular economy and re-circulation of products are two reoccurring themes in the scholarly debate about the future of sustainable retailing. There are several examples of stakeholders like retailers, NGOs, charity organizations and municipalities as well as  researchers that try to find functional retail models based on product re-circulation. Many of these initiatives, and the idea of product re-circulation per se, is often motivated with sustainability as the main ar­gument, i.e. that it decreases the production and consumption of new products, and hence re­duces the negative environmental impact. Earlier research in product re-circulation have mostly focused on development of business models, how it practically can be organized and consumer’s attitudes and behaviors in relation to the concept. However, how sustainability is translated into everyday practices in such initiatives is seldom examined. Hence, this paper aims at providing the understanding of how a sustainability discourse is implemented into talk and actions in a re-circulation initiative and what the implementation entails. This study em­ploys an actor-network theory (ANT) perspective and is based on qualitative data gathered through interviews and observations of everyday practices at a reuse-based shopping mall, ReTuna, in Sweden. Findings demonstrate that sustainability is elastic in relation to talk and practice, i.e. that there might be differences between a general argumentation and local inter­pretations. Differences that even can result in counterproductive everyday activities. A result of the elasticity is that the implementation of ideas about sustainable retail is more complex to manage than what is often shown. Thus, it is important to organize and operationalize a con­tinuous discussion about what sustainability in product re-circulation-based retail entails. 

  • 2.
    Hedegård, Lars
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Gustafsson, Eva
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    "Follow the things": Donated fashion in a reuse mall context2017Conference paper (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    This study is inspired by the "follow the things" movement that trace and document the history and travels of ordinary consumer goods such as jeans, shopping bags, food, blouses or hair extensions (see http://followthethings.com/ for a collection of travel reports). Narratives about products' origins and transformations have become part of the discourse on sustainable consumption, and it has been suggested that the post consumption phases of goods should be included in these narratives (Gregson et al (2010). This study can be seen as a response to their call, and we start our inquiry at the containers for textile recycling at the ReTuna mall - the world's first mall for reused goods - (see www.retuna.se). The narratives of garments will be documented through interviews with the donors, and we will shadow the garments through the re-cycle process at the ReTuna mall. ReTuna Mall aims for reuse, i.e., to re-introduce disposed garments to the fashion consumers visiting the mall. Accordingly, some garments will re-enter the consumption phase, but most garments are likely to be sorted out and re-defined into other purposes than being wearable.

     

    Reuse is one of the most common strategies used by fashion companies in their attempt to make the supply chain sustainable (Kant Hvass, 2016). Obviously, reuse of fashion reduces the demand for new garments, which in turns reduce the negative environmental impact of the textile production processes (Woolridge, Ward, Phillips, Collins, & Gandy, 2006; Farrant, Olsen, & Wangel, 2010; Castellani, Sala, & Mirabella, 2015). Reuse of fashion goods has the same basic structure as that of waste management, i.e., organized in three separate phases: collection, sorting and reprocessing. The literature on reuse in general is extensive, and studies on fashion reuse have become popular too. To give some examples, studies of consumers fashion disposal behaviour concentrate in most cases on disposal channels, behavioural motivations, disposal reasons and demographics of consumers that behave in specified ways (Laitala, 2014). Studies that focus on donation of fashion as disposal method on the other hand (i.e. Ha-Brookshire and Hodges (2009), Ekström, Hjelmgren, and Salomonson (2015) describes general motives for the disposal, but do not uncover the actual process or the activities that are involved in the donation - i.e. why is the individual garment donated and how is the sorting performed. These type of questions are touched upon in studies of the practices of sorting (Jana M. Hawley, 2006; Botticello, 2012), but these do not follow the garments through the whole process. Of interest for us is also studies on waste management in general, e.g., Åkesson's (2012) study on how a disposed goods are transformed and given new meanings as they travel through the phases of reuse; that what is waste at one phase will transform into a resource in another. Disposed goods can also, with or without disassembling, re-appear in different shapes with different meanings at another stage in the process (Gregson, Crang, Ahamed, Akhter, & Ferdous, 2010).

     

    As stated above, we trace and document the travel of donated fashion garments through the collection, sorting and reprocessing activities at the mall. For each step we pose two major questions: what happens and who/what are involved in this. In doing so, we take on the ANT approach to our objects of study and consider non-humans as equally possible instigators of actions and inscribers of meaning as humans. From our literature review, we believe that our study provides a somewhat novel approach to fashion reuse, and that it has the potential to contribute to the growing body of knowledge of sustainable fashion.

  • 3.
    Hedegård, Lars
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Gustafsson, Eva
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Paras, Manoj Kumar
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    MANAGEMENT OF SUSTAINABLE FASHION RETAIL BASED ON REUSE – A STRUGGLE WITH MULTIPLE LOGICS2019Conference paper (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Reuse is a strategy to render fashion retail sustainable and an example is the take-back schemes established by international retailers. Managerial aspects are important in a reuse system, but management issues have seldom been studied. Accordingly, empirical investigations of the management of reuse systems are needed. Hence, the purpose of this study is to show the complexity in the management of fashion-retail based on reuse by identifying and explaining obstacles in the process. This is achieved by an analyze of ReTuna, a shopping mall based on reuse, from the perspective of institutional logics. ReTuna opened in 2015 and consists of approximately fourteen stores. The shops at ReTuna sell reused products, but this unconventional sourcing of goods aside, ReTuna aims to be a traditional mall. Most shops are staffed by the owner(s) and in some cases an employee. Garments and textiles that are sold origins from donations that are collected by the mall. The case illustrates the complexity, as it failed in establishing reuse-based fashion retail, despite its success in achieving enough donations and creating publicity. The analysis shows that the goal of re-circulating fashion is hindered by actors not being able to equally integrate the divergent sustainability dimensions in the mall owner’s goals. The obstacles are a result of the actors prioritizing the logics differently at the same time as not being able to fulfill the demands of the logics due to a lack of knowledge, experience and skills, and coordination.

  • 4.
    Hedegård, Lars
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Gustafsson, Eva
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Paras, Manoj Kumar
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Management of sustainable fashion retail based on reuse: A struggle with multiple logics2019In: The International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research, ISSN 0959-3969Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    In scholarly conversations, reuse is one of the common suggested strategies to render fashion retail sustainable. Previous research has stressed the complexity of fashion reuse and the importance of a well-organized system. The complexity stems from processes that involve many actors as well as products hard to evaluate. Consequently, it is challenging to organize reuse-based fashion retail, and studies are needed to further develop knowledge regarding how to manage such systems. Hence, the purpose of this paper is to highlight the complexity in the management of such an initiative, by identifying and explaining obstacles as well as implications. With institutional logics as a framework, three local logics (shopping mall, reuse, and work integration) are used to analyze the management of a reuse-based mall. Despite the mall’s success in getting sufficient donations and creating publicity, it has struggled to establish itself as viable reuse-based fashion retail. The findings illustrate the complexity created by the interplay of different logics and how the complexity influences both the daily and strategic management of the mall. Further, the outcome of this interplay depends largely on which rationality is enacted by involved actors. The study also extends literature on institutional logics, showing that differences in individual actors’ attention, knowledge, skills, coordination, and material conditions influence how logics are enacted and managed. We suggest that there are inherent managerial contradictions in the sustainable practices in fashion retail. Thus, in scholarly conversations, it is important to discuss what different divergent sustainability dimensions imply when seeking solutions for sustainable retail. In practice, there is a need to acknowledge and balance the presence of multiple logics, making it crucial to have competence in all logics. Also, managers of reuse-based fashion retail must consciously and continuously scrutinize their own strategies and actions to avoid an imbalance between the logics.

  • 5.
    Hedegård, Lars
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Mouwitz, Pia
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Häggström, Emma
    Hållbar utveckling: Hur hållbar utveckling kan integreras i textila kurser2011In: PUH: Pedagogiska utvecklingsprojekt i högskolan 2011 / [ed] Sigrén Peter, Borås: Högskolan i Borås, 2011, p. 37-58Chapter in book (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
    Abstract [sv]

    Som lärare vid Textilhögskolan, Högskolan i Borås upplever vi ett tryck och ett önskemål från flera håll om ett ökat inslag av hållbar utveckling i undervisningen och studenternas utbildning. Från regeringen och högskolansledning finns uttalade krav i t.ex. Högskoleförordningen, Högskolans policy för hållbar utveckling samt i den miljöutredning som genomfördes 2009 att perspektivet ska beaktas vid planering och genomförandeav undervisning. Studenterna vid Textilhögskolan efterfrågar å sin sida en ökad diskussion om hållbar utveckling i de kurser de läser. Högskolans miljöutredning 2009/10 visar också på ett lågt inslag av hållbarutveckling i Textilhögskolans kurser och i flera av kurserna finns inget alls. För den enskilda läraren medför kraven på ökat inslag av hållbarutveckling två frågor att ta ställning till: Vad innebär hållbar utveckling imin kurs och hur ska det implementeras i min kurs?

    I vårt pedagogiska utvecklingsprojekt närmar vi oss de två frågornagenom att reda ut:

    • Vilka riktlinjer och styrdokument finns för hållbar utvecklingvid Textilhögskolan- Hur hållbar utveckling kan definieras inom textil- och modeindustrin.
    • Vad utmärker utbildning inom hållbar utveckling utifrån ett pedagogiskt perspektiv.
    • Hur kopplas undervisning och lärandemål till hållbar utveckling idag för Modedesignprogrammet och Textilingenjörutbildningen.
    • Vad önskvärd progression är och hur lärandemål för hållbarutveckling kan se ut.

    Resultatet av vårt arbete är ett förslag på modell på progression inomhållbar utveckling för två av Textilhögskolans utbildningar, förslag på lärandemål inom hållbar utveckling för dessa utbildningar, exempel på läraktiviteter inom hållbar utveckling i fyra kurser samt åtta nyckelfaktorer för en lyckad integrering.

  • 6.
    Hedegård, Lars
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Nordhill Edlund, Margareta
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Gutfelt, Kristina
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Larsson, Gunnel
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Lindahl, Elsa
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Proohf, Anna-Karin
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Svensson, Christina
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Att använda dator- och filmbaserat stöd vid praktisk undervisning2012In: PUH - Pedagogiska utvecklingsprojekt i högskolan: ett samarbete mellan Västra Götalands högskolor / [ed] Langelotz Lill, Johansson Kristina, Borås: Högskolan i Borås, 2012, p. 193-208Chapter in book (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
    Abstract [sv]

    Konfektionskollegiet vid Textilhögskolan erhöll under läsåret 2010/11medel från Centrum för lärande undervisning (CLU) vid Högskolan iBorås för att genomföra ett pedagogiskt utvecklingsprojekt. Projektethandlade om att skapa och använda dator- och filmbaserade läromedelsom stöd till praktisk undervisning. Rapporten bygger på de två delprojektendär film- respektive datorbaserat läromedel skapats och använts,ett besök vid Heriot Watt University samt intervjuer med personer somarbetat med film och undervisning i olika former. Målet med projektetvar att skapa en vägledning för att underlätta arbetet med film- och datorbaseradeläromedel vid praktisk undervisning och bilaga I återfinns enlathund till stöd för fortsatt arbete.

  • 7.
    Hedegård, Lars
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Paras, Manoj Kumar
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business. Gheorghe Asachi Technical University of Iasi.
    Gustafsson, Eva
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Contradictions In Reuse-based Fashion Retail - the ReTuna Mall Case2016In: GLOBAL FASHION CONFERENCE 2016 STOCKHOLM – SWEDEN, 2016Conference paper (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    Purpose

    The purpose of this paper is to describe and analyse the management of a novel commercial fashion retail concept – a shopping mall based on reuse and a local circular fashion supply chain – with the aim of identifying potential strategic issues with the concept.

    Design/methodology/approach

    This is an explorative case study, based on observations and interviews with shop managers, employees and the mall management.

    Findings

    The reuse concept strongly influences the mall's strategy, and the sourcing process is a key factor. The local reuse-based fashion supply chain follows the typical reuse process, but this study shows that the business logic that underpins the commercial strategy is not in line with the reuse and social enterprise ethoses that the mall ostensibly follows.

    Research limitations/implications

    This study illustrates the difficulties inherent in organising a reuse-based mall due to the need to combine a commercial strategy, a local and circular fashion supply chain, and a social enterprise ethic.

    Practical implications

    The findings highlight the mall management's responsibility for the sourcing of goods, the need for a closer cooperation between mall management and tenants in a reuse-based mall, and the need for competence in terms of reuse, fashion, and retail in order for the concept to be developed further.

    Originality/value

    ReTuna represents a new fashion retail phenomenon – the reuse-based shopping mall – that has not been studied yet.

    Keywords

    Fashion retail, textile reuse, clothing reuse, mall management, fashion supply chain, recycling, sustainability, circular supply chain.

    Article classification

    Research paper

  • 8.
    Kumar Paras, Manoj
    et al.
    Technical University of Iasi, Faculty of Textiles-Leather and Industrial Management.
    Hedegård, Lars
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Curteza, Antonela
    Technical University of Iasi, Faculty of Textiles-Leather and Industrial Management.
    ReTuna Recycling Mall: Reuse based Circular Fashion Supply Chain Management2016Conference paper (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    The shopping mall concept has emerged to provide unique mall profiles to satisfy consumers who search for the ultimate shopping experience. Under one roof different sellers are assembled together with food outlets and entertainment to full fill the requirements of consumers.Gradually an awareness of over consumption has raised together with calls for reuse activities that reduce the consumption of new products. As an answer to this problem a shopping mall for sustainable practice and reuse: ReTuna, has been developed in Eskilstuna, Sweden.This study has been undertaken to understand the practice of ReTuna and the local based circular fashion supply chain that it incorporates. Still in its beginning ReTuna is indeed a revolutionary concept to enhance the practice of reuse.

  • 9.
    Paras, Manoj Kumar
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business. Gheorghe Asachi Technical University of Iași,Romania.
    Lars, Hedegård
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Pal, Rudrajeet
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Curteza, Antonela
    Gheorghe Asachi Technical University of Iași, Romania.
    ReTuna: The Recycling Mall2016In: ReTuna: The Recycling Mall, 2016Conference paper (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    This study has been undertaken to understand the practice of ReTuna. This has been done through two phases: In the first phase backend operations have been studied by visiting collecting and sorting facilities and interviewing mall management. In the second phase each mall tenants have been studied and interviewed. After each interview data has been analysed and follow up interview were done to strengthen the information. The study shows that the reuse mall has been established near a recycling centre to promote the concept of reuse. Instead of disposing of goods to incineration, Citizens are encouraged to donate the goods to the mall. The collected products are sorted on the basis of type by mall employees and kept at different designated location of each tenants in line with their contract. Employees of the tenants visit the warehouse to receive and sort their assigned goods according to conditions and product categories. Some of the tenants have facilities to re-design, repair and wash the garments to improve the functionality of products. The mall management is doing efforts to increase the number of upcycling activities that the tenants perform to increase the value of the reused goods. The reuse mall also provides workshop and laboratory space to college involved in the education of reuse and re-design. Students of the college experiment with donated goods to redesign new products. 

  • 10.
    Persson, Nils-Krister
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Baghaei, Behnaz
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Bashir, Tariq
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Brorström, Björn
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Hedegård, Lars
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Carlson Ingdahl, Tina
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Larsson, Jonas
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Lindberg, Ulla
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Löfström, Mikael
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Oudhuis, Margaretha
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Pal, Rudrajeet
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Pettersson, Anita
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Påhlsson, Birgitta
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Kumar Ramamoorthy, Sunil
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Richards, Tobias
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Skrifvars, Mikael
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Worbin, Linda
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Åkesson, Dan
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Re: en ny samhällssektor spirar2016Report (Other academic)
    Abstract [sv]

    Resurser och hållbarhet är nära förknippade. Hållbarhet innebär att hushålla med resurser - materiella, miljömässiga och mänskliga. Och hushållning är per definition kärnan i ekonomi. Man börjar alltmer se framväxten av en hel arsenal av verktyg och förhållnings- och angreppssätt för att bygga hållbarhet. Detta förenas av ett synsätt att det som hitintills setts  om avfall och värdelöst, och rent utav besvärligt att ta hand om, nu blir en värdefull resurs. Det glömda och gömda kommer åter. Faktum är att många ord och begrepp kring detta börjar på just åter- eller re- . Internationellt talar man om Redesign, Recycling, Remake, Recycle, Recraft, Reuse, Recreate, Reclaim, Reduce, Repair, Refashion.

    Vad är då allt detta? Ja, vill man dra det långt, är det inte mindre än framväxten av ett nyvunnet sätt att tänka, ja av en ny samhällssektor, en bransch och en industri,  sammanbundet av filosofin att återanvändningen, spillminskningen, vidarebruket, efterlivet anses som viktiga faktorer för ett miljömedvetet samhälle. Re: blir paraplytermen för detta. I denna antologi av forskare från skilda discipliner vid Högskolan i Borås lyfts ett antal av dessa begrepp inom Re: fram.

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