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  • 1.
    Pal, Rudrajeet
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Aneja, Arun
    East Carolina State University.
    Ambidexterity drivers of value-creation and appropriation in business models: an explorative study from DuPont2017In: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, ISSN 1560-6074, Vol. 21, no 1, p. 2-26Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Purpose – This paper aims to investigate how different trajectories can be detected and classified in business models (BMs) at the level of their underlying product development value-structure (value-creation and appropriation), and what are the drivers. Such BMs are run by multinational firms to accommodate various technologies and innovations; however, this is stressful because of inherent incompatibilities and conflicts.

    Design/methodology/approach – An explorative study of six product cases from Du Pont’s Textiles Fiber Division (DTFD), namely, nylon yarns, knits and wovens, DTFD blockbusters, Coolmax®, MicroMattique™, filling materials and Supriva™, is conducted.

    Findings – In value-creation, technology push or market pull yields resultant technology-forward or market-back trajectories. For value appropriation, new growth opportunities or continuous market expectations lead to breakthrough or continuous innovations. Consistent and inconsistent combinations of these trajectories yield four differential drivers: technological breakthrough, market-back technology, continuous technology and continuous market-back. This is supported by relevant supply chain strategies, either focused through joint ventures and licensees for commodities or vertically integrated for specialty products.

    Research limitations/implications – The paper adds to the analysis of ambidexterity in the value structure of BMs along constituent value-creation and appropriation, thus providing a logical lens to understand various complementarities that exist in terms of opposing technology trajectories and product innovation repertoire.

    Practical implications – This study contributes to the knowledge of product innovation management in the textile industry, where both large-scale innovation and operational excellence are challenged over the past few decades.

    Originality/value – The lessons learnt address the fundamental issue of higher value generation through configuration of multiple contrasting value-structure elements.

  • 2.
    Paras, Manoj Kumar
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Curteza, Antonela
    Gheorghe Asachi Technical University of Iasi.
    Revisiting upcycling phenomena: a concept in clothing industry2018In: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, ISSN 1560-6074, Vol. 22, no 1, p. 46-58Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Purpose – The purpose of this study is to review the literature and practice of upcycling. In particular, the objective of this study is threefold: to comprehend the concept of upcycling and, subsequently, understanding the prominent terminologies used in the literature; to understand the process of upcycling and problem associated with it; and to review current literature and practice of upcycling for clothes.

    Design/methodology/approach – A scientific literature review procedure proposed by Mayring (2002)was adopted to select and screen the paper that comprises the following steps: material collection, descriptive analysis and material evaluation.

    Findings – Upcycling literature has witnessed significant contribution in the past one decade. The paper has identified various terminologies and definitions such as recycling, down-cycling, upcycling and redesign, which are used in the literature.

    Research limitations/implications – The present study may help the scholars to understand the current state of literature. A practitioner of upcycling can use the findings to improve and standardise the existing process.

    Originality/value – The process of redesigning is one of the important steps in upcycling, which comprises ideation, reconstruction and fitting. The limitation of redesigning is variability in size and pattern. This can be overcome through various techniques such as craftsmanship, time, innovation, provenance, desire and narrative.

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