This work investigates the expressive quality of the negative form of ready-made garments through the method of making impressions. The work aims to explore how imprints of garments created in alternative materials such as flour and plaster could be used as a trompe l’oeil print motif in fashion design. It is an exploration about how our pre-existing perception of archetypal garments expands when the garments are represented through their imprint in a new material, colour and slightly different form. The study was conducted using experimental methods such as making impressions of garments in a layer of flour or capturing their negative form in plaster or clay. The created impressions were photographed and then digitally printed on different textile qualities with sublimation or reactive dyes. The printed fabrics were then transformed into three-dimensional garments through the technique of draping and with consideration of the garment’s traditional placement. Selected imprints were altered in scale or printed as a fragment, that in turn, affected the final form of these garments. What is presented in this work is a variety of garments that demonstrate how negative impressions of archetypal garments are used as a decorative visual texture as well as a suggestion for form.
Picturebooks are media resources that combine illustrations and texts to reach young children with entertainment and messages about life. They can support children’s development of understanding of democratic principles. For this paper, picturebooks from Sweden and the US with content involving democratic principles were analysed with the goal of inquiring into specifically selected picturebooks through text- and illustration-based methods (iconotext). Ten picturebooks published since 2000 served as exemplars of five democratic principles: (a) equity/equality, (b) respect and appreciation for diversity, (c) rights, (d) freedom, and (e) participation. These picturebooks were examined with regard to power relations between groups or individuals. Dominance was expressed in the form of race differentiation and separation, gender dominance, and the limitation of others’ rights by force. Picturebooks from Sweden and the US differed with regard to individualism vs. collectivism. The picturebooks included contexts in which democratic solutions were sought and obtained; through read alouds they can present young children with models of decision making for their own lives.
In this paper we describe and evaluate a tool for paradigm induction and lexicon extraction that has been applied to Old Swedish. The tool is semi-supervised and uses a small seed lexicon and unannotated corpora to derive full inflection tables for input lemmata. In the work presented here, the tool has been modified to deal with the rich spelling variation found in Old Swedish texts. We also present some initial experiments, which are the first steps towards creating a large-scale morphology for Old Swedish.
Språkbanken, the Swedish Language Bank, is a language technology research unit at the Department of Swedish, University of Gothenburg. We develop language resources – such as corpora, lexical resources, and analytical tools – for all variants of Swedish, from Old Swedish laws to present-day social media. Historical texts offer exciting theoretical and methodological challenges for language technology because they often defy the assumption inherent in most automatic analysis tools that the texts contain a standardized written language. In this article, we describe our ongoing work on the development of annotated historical corpora, as well as our efforts on linking various resources (both corpora and lexical resources). This research advances the state of the art of language technology as well as enables new research for scholars in other disciplines.
In this chapter we present the diachronic dimension of Swedish FrameNet++. We describe the historical lexical resources currently available for Swedish, linked to the Contemporary Swedish lexicon Saldo. We present a case study of how interlinking the dictionaries simultaneously allows us to study lexical change. We also present a method of linking text words to lexicon entries, facilitating interactive exploration of historical texts. Diachronical language resources present both a high-variation challenge from a wider language technology perspective, and an interesting object of linguistic study. While a number of improvements of the parts of the diachronic lexical macroresource are still needed, this resource is invaluable for analysing and accessing historical texts, as well as for both synchronic historical and diachronic lexical studies.
In recent times sustainability is a leading characteristic of textile fashion products. Textile fashion companies are focusing more on sustainable products these days, so that they can meet the environmental and social aspects. For getting competitive advantage in fashion business the companies have to take care of social, political and economical issues, and they must be aware of current trends of the market. Sustainable fibres provide solution for the companies facing issues regarding environmental problems; these fibres are also favorable to meet the market demands of quality products these days. The main objective of this report is to use the sustainable materials in fashion garments; the report contains rich information about two natural sustainable fibres (organic cotton and Bamboo), that describes the brief history, biography, development, processing, application and uses of these fibres. This report briefly describes the advantages and disadvantages of these fibres and underlines the usage of these fibres by famous designers, and by many top brands and fashion companies for their competitive advantage and brand image. The report highlights the potentials of using these materials in textile fashion products and describes that high fashion and quality products can be made by these products to guarantee the environmental and social standards
Konkurrensen i klädbranschen växer och blir allt intensivare. Det krävs idag mer från ett företag för att kunna skilja sig från mängden. En rad olika faktorer påverkar en konsuments beteende och attityd gentemot ett företag och en butiks val av varumärken och sortimentsutbud spelar en betydande roll för att kunna kommunicera ut ett budskap som lockar den tänkta målgruppen. Det blir allt vanligare att detaljistföretag som erbjuder etablerade varumärken integrerar bakåt och producerar egna märkesvaror. Lager 157 är ett företag som på senare tid har följt denna trend. Vår studie undersöker kombinationen av etablerade och egna varumärken och fokuserar på vilken påverkan Lager 157:s varumärken har på konsumenters attityder och beteenden. Vi har även undersökt vilka positiva och negativa effekter som kan uppstå genom varumärkeskombinationen och hur sortimentets inriktning, djup och bredd styr konsumenters efterfrågan. Studiens innehåll är baserat på primärdata i form av en marknadsundersökning och en intervju och sekundärdata i form av litteratur, vetenskapliga artiklar och elektroniska källor. Marknadsundersökningen har utförts i enkätform med 13 frågor i Lager 157:s butik i Gällstad och intervjun har genomförts med butikens chef Maja Brolin. För att kunna analysera och tolka aktuell information har vi använt oss av tre teoretiska modeller, ”Kommunikationsprocessen”, ”Varumärkesprocessen i en tjänsteverksamhet” och ”Faktorer som påverkar konsumenters köpbeteende”, i kombination med teoretiska begrepp. Det vi har kommit fram till är att företagets varumärken har en stor påverkan på konsumenters åsikter, attityder och beteenden sett från både ett personligt och ett socialt perspektiv där identifikation med företagets koncept är en viktig del. Genom Lager 157:s kombination av etablerade och egna varumärken kan företaget nå en större målgrupp, locka fler besökare och skilja sig från mängden, men också förlora försäljning på grund av konkurrerande varumärken som också kan dra ned helhetsintrycket. Ju bredare och djupare sortiment ett företag som Lager 157 erbjuder, desto större chans är det att en konsument kan hitta det den eftersöker och få sitt behov tillfredsställt, vilket leder till en ökad efterfrågan. The competition in the clothing industry is growing and becoming more intense. It currently requires more from a company to stand out. A variety of factors influence a consumer's behavior and attitude toward a company and a store's selection of brands and range selection plays a significant role in order to communicate a message that attracts the intended audience. It is becoming increasingly common for retail businesses that offer established brands to integrate backwards and produce private label products. Lager 157 is a company that has recently followed this trend. Our study investigates the combination of own and established brands and focus on the impact that Lager 157's brands have on consumers' attitudes and behaviors. We examined the positive and negative effects that may occur through brand combination and how the assortments focus, depth and width controls the consumer demand. The study is based on primary data in the form of a market survey and an interview and secondary data in the form of literature, scientific papers and electronic sources. The market investigation has been conducted in the form of a questionnaire with 13 questions in Lager 157's store in Gällstad and the interview was carried out with the store manager Maja Brolin. In order to analyze and interpret current information, we used three theoretical models, "Communication Process", "Brand process" and "Factors affecting consumers' purchasing behavior", in combination with theoretical concepts. What we have found is that the company's brands have a major impact on consumers' opinions, attitudes and behaviors as seen from both a personal and a social perspective. Identification with the company's concept is an important part. With Lager 157's combination of established and own brands, the company can reach a larger audience, attracting more visitors and stand out, but also losing sales because of competing brands that can also reduce the overall appearance. The wider and deeper range of a company like Lager 157 offers, the more likely it is that a consumer can find what they are looking for and get their needs satisfied, leading to increased demand.
What if fibres were strings of numbers, arrays of digits turned into threads, not taking a specific form but constantly evolving. An increasing online presence and virtual experiences are shifting the understanding and definition of materiality. This work starts with a focus on textile expressions in a virtual world. It is built on new ideas on material thinking, with an emphasis on the divergence of aesthetic expressions. It explores the crossing between traditional craft and complex computer-generated structures. The idea is to reimagine how textiles are designed and made. The aim is to broaden the textile design field by exploring the definition of textiles through digital materiality, focusing on computer-generated images and surfaces in 3d software.
The relationship between libertarianism and state is a contested one. Despite pressing full and strict ownership of one’s person and any justly acquired goods, many libertarians have suggested ways in which a state, albeit limited, can be regarded as just. Peter Vallentyne has proposed that all plausible versions of libertarianism are compatible with what he calls ‘private-law states’. His proposal is underpinned by a particular conception of rights, which brings Interest Theory of rights and Will Theory of rights together. If convincing, Vallentyne’s theory of rights enables libertarians to accommodate a limited but nevertheless coercive state that can act without the full consent of the affected citizen. In this paper, it is argued that Vallentyne’s hybrid theory of rights is implausible from a libertarian perspective as well as fails to align itself with common and deeply held moral intuitions. Hence the conflict between mainstream libertarianism and the state is not solved by Vallentyne’s proposal.
In architecture we usually divide built things into structure or ornament. The same way of thinking can be applied to fashion. First you have a construction (garment) and then you add an ornament, like a way of styling. This works aim to change that relationship. One way of exploring the relation between the two concepts is to subordinate structure under ornament in order to change the hierarchy between form and decoration. Ornaments have in themselves structural elements that can be transformed into construction. My aim is to find these and let them be the bearing structures when augmenting for new shapes and expression with a codependent relationship between the two. The concrete methods of this work have been carried out through experimentation with different perspective on ornamentation in a trial and error process to achieve new expression and potential of ornament. The results are various examples of the design method carried out in different scale and proportions. They show how the method could be used in a structural way to find form and a more pictorial way to build expression. It questions modernistic thinking with its form follow function principle and explores other values such as attraction of the eye and the expression of light reflective materials. It explores the clash between tradition and new material. A new discussion could be raised about what is construction and what is ornamentation, if a separation is needed or even can be done.
This thesis deals with cross-country ski clothing for non-competitive women. Women in this category look for different clothing features in comfort and aesthetics than male top athletes, for whom cross-country skiwear today often seems to be designed. In this thesis the demands of these women have been mapped out by an interview with a reference group of users. The ergonomics of exercising in the winter outdoors are naturally a base for the collection. The collection consists of three functional layers of garments. Each layer has its own purpose and its specific style that reflects its function for the user. Knit materials are developed for thermal underwear and an insulating middle layer. The protecting outer garments were tested in real outdoor conditions. The spirit of the collection can be summarized as to mature femininity. The collection allows each skier to enjoy skiing as she best feels. The aim is to inspire more beautiful women to dust off their skis and enjoy nature.
Globalization that diminishes the barriers to trade worldwide has transformed the structure of production and increased the global competition in the textile and apparel industry. Especially, the elimination of quotas on January 2005 has totally changed the whole scenario of the apparel industry. A boom has been noticed in the emerging markets. Buyers shift their maximum orders to the low cost countries to increase their profit margins. China has gained its popularity among the European and American buyers because of the cheap labor and large scales of production and has become the world’s largest exporter of textile and apparel. The traditional competitive factor among the buyers is the lower cost of the product but the changing markets trends and demand volatility pushes the buyers to focus also on quality and lead times in addition to price. Due to the huge competition among the cluster of brands, retailers and wholesalers, lead time is becoming critical as longer lead times increases the risk of bottleneck to sales. China is the most important apparel supplier for the EU (especially Germany, the UK, and France) because it provides the cost benefit to the sourcing companies, but at the same time, it increases the lead times and also has more environmental impact in terms of pollution because of the long geographical distance. This thesis highlights that there is a remarkable rise of the labor cost in China, noticed for the last couple of years, which has reduced the competitive factor of price while sourcing from China. This is also an upcoming challenge for the whole world with regards to sourcing strategies. Many sourcing companies are shifting their shares away from China in order to achieve their desired profit margins. Turkey may be an alternative sourcing destination for the European apparel buyers and wholesalers because of its competitive labor cost, favorable government policies, flexibility, sustainability, and proximity to Europe. In this thesis, a pilot study is carried out to determine the relationship and effects of lead times on sales. This thesis also describes the effects of relationships among the business partners on the supply chain flow. It is noted through several pilot studies that the organizations who work in collaboration with their supply chain partners can significantly improve their supply chain efficiency by reducing the inventories, markdowns, lead times, lost sales, and increasing forecast accuracy. There are several tools in use for collaboration such as Vendor Managed Inventory (VMI), Electronic Data Interchange (EDI), Just in Time (JIT), Customer Relationship Management (CRM), and Collaboration, Planning, Forecasting, and Replenishment (CPFR). In this paper the CPFR implementation steps, benefits, and hindrances are discussed in detail.
The purpose of this article is to construct an ethical position of Academic Development Programmes where managerial, top-down principles, are rejected because of the disciplinary resistance such positions bring in the reluctance of recognising existing teaching practices. Instead a focus on particularity through the acceptance of professional difference in an interdisciplinary dialogue is put forward where comparative didactics and interfaith dialogue bring new abilities for university teachers to become better practitioners within their own fields of teaching.
The aim of this article is to conduct a systematic review of articles on climate change in religious education found through scholarly databases. Five database searches have been conducted, resulting in 49 academic journal articles. The results are categorized into studies that focus on theory and methodology, observations of existing practices, and quantitative studies on climate change. The key findings include the recognition of an environmental crisis and the cultivation of hope regarding climate change. It demonstrates that religious education can play a crucial role in schools by addressing climate anxiety and fostering hope for a brighter future.
Academic teacher development is an educational meeting place for academics already practising the art of teaching. Yet, it is in courses for this development that academics are supposed to be taught how to teach and how to improve their teaching skills. In my article I propose a new conceptual methodological framework for teaching teachers how to teach – Didactic Reasoning. Its foundation can be traced to pragmatist philosophy and interfaith dialogue in theology. The key aspect of Didactic Reasoning is to make university teachers better teachers by the development of a didactic voice and the courage to try this voice in teaching activities. This is done through intersubjective meetings between academics to develop a respect for the ‘teaching-other’ in their colleagues and through the use of practice-focused themed conversations led by teacher educators.
Today, in many western secular countries there is an ongoing public debate on the educational role of religiousinstitutions. This debate has been much examined in previous research. But, the religious institutions own policiesregarding education has received little focus in research, even less from a comparative perspective. Therefore, thispaper aims at analysing and comparing four such ecclesiastical policies on religion: the “Veritas Gaudium” (2018),issued by Pope Francis for the Roman Catholic Church; the Church of England’s “Vision for Education” (2016), and theGerman Evangelische Kirche’s “Kirche und Bildung” (2009); and finally from Sweden, the Lutheran Church of Sweden’supcoming policy on education.This paper, being part of research project “Confessional Education in Secular Contexts” at the University of Borås, aimsat analysing these four ecclesiastical policies on education focusing on how the churches present the need for theireducational perspectives in a secular context. Questions such as, how the denominations view themselves in terms ofeducational institutions, and how they argue from a theological perspective on the needs for education, will beinvestigated. The paper position itself in the juxtaposition fields of Practical Theology and Religious education. Policyanalysis is a methodology seldom used in Practical Theology, albeit commonly used in Religious Education, still,ecclesiastical policies are more frequently analysed in Practical Theology than in Religious Education. With thecombination, important aspects of understanding Christian denominations effort of position themselves aseducational agents in a secular context, can be identified and understood.
In the post-secular societies of Northern Europe, Christian denominations have had to re-construct their identities as educational agents. This article focuses on the Church of England and the Church of Sweden, and their changed self-identification as expressed in their educational policy documents. Whereas the Church of England’sdiscourses are of partnership and business competition, the Church of Sweden’sdiscourses are about the Apocalypse and external threats. These approaches areanalysed using Habermas’ concept of religion, identifying a transformation of religious language into secular argumentation to become viable in the secular public space. The question posed is: “Is theology becoming a losing proposition in Northern Europe?"
This study aims at investigating and comparing state attitudes towards confession in policies regarding meetings with religious elements at schools. Two state policies have been examined through a text analysis inspired by Critical Hermeneutics – the 2012 guidelines, currently in use, and a historic guideline from 1967. Results show that two different stands are emerging regarding confessional elements. In the 1967 policy, pupils are encouraged to meet and tolerate different religious perspectives including non-religious attitudes in order to develop a democratic consciousness. Half a century later, the 2012 policy consider confession as problematic and something from which pupils ought to be protected. The study ends with a discussion of how recent regulations align with the ambition of training pupils in the encounter with religious others in the multicultural society Sweden and Europe presently are part of. Perhaps, something could be learned from previous state regulations – that encountering otherness does not necessary lead students to question their own beliefs, rather it may expand their horizon of cultural competence.
The canonical year has since long been a firm foundation of sermons and teaching on the fundamentals of faith. For adults it has often been intertwined with current life situations and contextualization. For children, less so. Often, biblical stories have been used to learn the Christian narratives and faith fundamentals, but seldom in a societal context. This paper is a presentation of a planned project to construct a learning material for families and Sunday schools where the basis is the canonical year and its biblical passages but contextualized into today’s world of insecurities.
The climate crisis, with its global reach, demands diverse solutions, yet many religious education curricula, for example in Swedish schools, lack climate-focused content. Given that climate change disproportionately affects different regions, a postcolonial perspective is crucial in understanding the disparity between the crisis’s causers and victims. Religions contribute diverse ethical frameworks and spiritual resources, providing both identity and hope in the face of ecological anxiety. By integrating climate concerns into religious education, students can engage with concepts such as eco-theology, climate justice, and the spiritual responsibilities of humans toward nature. This integration fosters critical discussions on the socio-political roles of global religious institutions, such as the World Council of Churches can serve as platforms for dialogue and cooperation. The paper will also discuss the collaborative development of educational materials, highlighting the importance of cooperative work between educators, theologians, and interfaith groups. By drawing on examples from various religious traditions, the paper emphasises the potential of religious education to offer constructive, globally unified responses to the climate crisis while respecting the plurality of religious experiences.
Syftet med denna artikel är dels att undersöka hur den existerande professionsetiken ser ut för universitetslärare idag, 2016, dels att pröva utforma en ny, frågebaserad professionsetik, som istället för riktlinjer utgår ifrån de didaktiska frågorna hur, vad, varför och vem? Som en grund för artikeln står dels SULF:s etiska riktlinjer från 2005 för universitetslärare, dels den problematik som breddad rekrytering innebär vad gäller studenters prestationer och förutsättningar till studier. Stora brister identifieras i SULF:s etiska riktlinjer, framför allt vad gäller synen på svaga studenter och lärarens roll att hjälpa studenterna att nå godkända betyg i sin universitetsutbildning. För att ge universitetslärare den etiska assistans som SULF:s riktlinjer talar om, behövs en ny ansats till professionsetiken i högre utbildning. En konsekvens av denna slutsats är därför artikelns konceptuella modell för en ny professionsetik för universitetslärare som benämns som frågebaserad etik där universitetsläraren inte bara grundar sin reflektion om undervisning i etiska ställningstaganden utan även låter denna reflektion mynna ut i pedagogisk handling med hjälp av de didaktiska frågorna ”Vad utgör undervisningens innehåll?”, ”Hur väljs undervisningens metod ut?”, ”Varför bedrivs undervisningen?”, samt ”Vem deltar i undervisningen”. Svaren på dessa frågor är, enligt modellen, universitetslärarens egna, och är alla beroende av etisk reflektion för att kunna formuleras och realiseras.
In the first paper, devotional activities such as praying and worshipping in wall paintings, will be analysed. The wall paintings were the illiterate man's manual where he was taught the essentials of Christian faith and devotion.
Klimatfrågan har blivit en framträdande fråga i medierna. Trots rikligt med material omämnet inom olika ämnen, brister det inom religionskunskapen på svenska skolor. Det finnsdock tillgängligt material – men på andra språk och för andra utbildningsystem än det ickekonfessionellasvenska. Denna artikel fungerar som en lista över webbplatser med arbetsmaterialom religion och klimat samt presenterar flera exempel på klimattutalanden frånreligiösa företrädare. Syftet är att med denna översikt öppna upp möjligheter för svenskareligionslärare att undervisa om klimatfrågan genom att erbjuda en kombination av godaexempel och allsidiga perspektiv.
Den konfessionella formningen av teologi- och pastor/präststudenterna måste ske utanför de akademiska studierna. Gillar man inte den ordningen finns tyvärr inget utrymme för utbildning på högskolenivå i Sverige, skriver Viktor Aldrin.