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Exploring the relationship between material and textile structure in creating changing textile expressions
University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business. (Smart Textiles Design Lab)
2015 (English)In: EKSIG 2015 – Tangible Means - Experiential Knowledge Through Materials, Kolding, 2015Conference paper, Published paper (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

This paper explores the relationship between potentially dynamic materials and textile structures for designing textiles with inherent changing qualities. Textiles are usually designed to retain their appearance for as long as possible. Yet all textiles wear out and change over time, both physically and aesthetically. This means the life spans of textile object and the material it is made from will not necessarily be equal. The dynamic changeable qualities in textiles could instead be enhanced by using the potentially dynamic, changing qualities inherent to materials and combining them with textile structures. Through contextualisation and design examples, this paper discusses the possibilities of embedding these qualities into textiles, and presents a series of woven and knitted designs that combine these materials into different textile structures. Two materials with differing dynamic qualities were chosen for the experiments. These are polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) yarn—a material that melts in water and uncoated copper wire—which creates a patina when it reacts with air. These materials are combined into woven and knitted structures and then exposed to two types of stimuli to explore how different stimuli affect the way in which the materials change: passive exposure to weather, and an active workshop with fashion design students. The results are initial explorations into the basic principles of combining potentially dynamic materials into textile structures to create textiles that take advantage of how different materials change over their life span, and how this might look. Through embedding different time spans into textiles instead of designing static expressions, the life span of materials and textile objects could be better matched, enabling the designer to tailor a more appropriate life span for textiles.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Kolding, 2015.
Keywords [en]
textile design, material, structure, weaving, dynamic
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-8627OAI: oai:DiVA.org:hb-8627DiVA, id: diva2:894803
Conference
EKSIG 2015, Kolding, Denmark on 24th-25th of November 2015
Note

Link to the conference proceedings published online: http://experientialknowledge.org.uk/conference_2015.html

Available from: 2016-01-15 Created: 2016-01-15 Last updated: 2019-04-15Bibliographically approved
In thesis
1. Changeability as a quality in textile design
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Changeability as a quality in textile design
2019 (English)Licentiate thesis, comprehensive summary (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

The tendency to wear out and change is inherent in most materials, but – aside from a few exceptions – has been considered to be undesirable by both the industry and consumers. The work presented in this licentiate thesis suggests that, due to change in some form being an inherent property of textiles, it may be viable to look for alternative ways of designing and perceiving textiles that accept change as one of their qualities.

 The experimental work explores change as a quality in textiles from the perspective of the textile material, and examines irreversible changes in textiles from three different perspectives: form, use, and teaching changeability in the field of textile design. Changes in colour, pattern, texture, and structure were explored by developing knitted and woven textiles using materials with pronounced changeable properties, and exposing these to various stimuli, such as outdoor conditions and use in workshops.

The experiments suggest that the combination of material and structure defines how textiles change when exposed to various stimuli. A material’s properties define what the textile reacts to and how, while the structure of the textile influences how it changes through the amount and placement of materials. In addition, time and the handling of a textile shape the exact changes that take place.

Designing with changeability as a quality in textiles opens up for alternative possibilities as regards creating expressions, wherein time and change are design variables alongside more traditional qualities, and could encourage a diversity of lifespans and changes over various timescales, better connecting textiles to the properties of their raw materials. This may mean that an alternative method for evaluating quality based on change instead of permanence could be viable, wherein the notion of permanence as a sign of quality in textiles is questioned.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Högskolan i Borås, 2019
Series
University of Borås studies in artistic research ; 28
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15990 (URN)978-91-88838-30-8 (ISBN)
Available from: 2019-04-23 Created: 2019-04-15 Last updated: 2019-04-23Bibliographically approved

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