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BODY FRAGMENTED - Temporal Expressions
University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.ORCID iD: 0000-0002-8753-9070
2020 (English)In: VIS: Nordic Journal for Artistic Research, E-ISSN 2003-024X, Vol. 4Article in journal (Refereed) [Artistic work] Published
Abstract [en]

In response to digital technology, new methods, thinking and aesthetics have emerged that challenge the way we design. In particular, the extraction of movement introduced by motion-capture technology proposes a design process wherein the motion rather than the form is used as a material. In such a process, the motion is extracted from a defined set of points that creates a digital representation. In this exposition, the strategies utilized when capturing a motion is translated into the process of garment making resulting in other bodily aesthetics through dress. 

Practically, this exposition is based on two independent studies that aim to define parameters for transformations of the moving body’s expression applied to a garment making process. The transformation is approached from two different perspectives; the first study is non-material and borrows theory and references from the field of dance and motion capturing technology. It maps the body as a point-based system based on the body as a moving form and pin-points body functions that affect these points. This part serves as a foundation for the second study that adds material aspects to the work, in particular, by mapping material parameters that relate to how the material is arranged in relation to these points. 

 

In conclusion, strategies of extraction of movement as the attachments and the scale of fragmentation of materials are considered as the main contribution to the garment making process. As it proposes a new usage of movement, the work has implications for fashion design, costume design and other body movement-based practices.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
2020. Vol. 4
Keywords [en]
Motion capturing, motion design, fashion design, body extended, performing body
National Category
Design Performing Arts Visual Arts
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-23934OAI: oai:DiVA.org:hb-23934DiVA, id: diva2:1477001
Available from: 2020-10-16 Created: 2020-10-16 Last updated: 2024-07-04Bibliographically approved
In thesis
1. Body movement as material: Designing temporal expressions
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Body movement as material: Designing temporal expressions
2021 (English)Doctoral thesis, comprehensive summary (Other academic) [Artistic work]
Abstract [en]

Movement and temporal qualities have a significant effect on design expressions. However, in the design of dress these are often overlooked, and the static form of a positioned body is considered to be the main driver of design. This work explores the expressions of the body in motion, engaged in the interaction constituted by wearing. Through a practice-led experimental approach, the research presented in this thesis aims to establish strategies for utilising the motion of the body in the context of design development. 

The research has been carried out through multiple series of experiments. Initial series of experiments focused on exploring wearing as an entwined dialogue between body and material that is expressing and informing the motion of the body. This was followed by series of experiments focusing on more particular variables such as body movement principles, material properties, and somatic experiences. Through analysing and implementing movement as a design material the work suggests an alternative type of form-thinking and form-giving where materiality together with the body movement extends garments into a temporal expression.

The result suggests an alternative model consisting of methods, concepts, and variables for design for designing temporal expressions wherein dress is defined as a temporal form and designed as a system of possible movements and ways in which a wearer can interact with a garment. Within this model, body movement is under-stood as a material and the body is viewed as a temporal structure and a mechanism for changes in the design. Overall, temporal expressions, or temporal form suggest acts of wearing and the somatic presence of the body as foundations in body-based expressions of equal importance as worn material. In particular, the design examples suggest another use of the joints of the body – the crucial points that enable move-ment – which were the main design material for temporal expressions.

The methods and thinking proposed in this thesis may be beneficial for multiple fields of art and design that use the body’s motion as design material extending the findings from the origins of dress.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Borås: Högskolan i Borås, 2021
Series
University of Borås studies in artistic research ; 36
Keywords
Design, body, body as material, fashion design, performing arts, temporal form, practice-led research, design methods, motion design
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-24427 (URN)978-91-89271-14-2 (ISBN)978-91-89271-15-9 (ISBN)
Public defence
2021-02-25, Zoom, 13:00 (English)
Opponent
Supervisors
Available from: 2021-01-19 Created: 2020-12-16 Last updated: 2024-09-09Bibliographically approved

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