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The fashion waste-management process at ReTuna: A study of unstable classifications of textiles goods
University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business. (Sustainable marketing and consumption research group)ORCID iD: 0000-0002-0018-1185
University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.ORCID iD: 0000-0001-9007-4932
2020 (English)In: Perspectives on Waste from the Social Sciences and Humanities: Opening the Bin / [ed] Richard Ek & Nils Johansson, Newcastle upon Tyne: Cambridge Scholars Publishing, 2020, p. 240-265Chapter in book (Refereed)
Sustainable development
According to the author(s), the content of this publication falls within the area of sustainable development.
Abstract [en]

In this chapter, we explore the classification of donated fashion and textiles in a waste management process with methods and concepts inspired byactor-network theory (ANT). 

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Newcastle upon Tyne: Cambridge Scholars Publishing, 2020. p. 240-265
Keywords [en]
Fashion reuse, ReTuna, Fashion Waste-management, Actor-Network Theory, Follow the thing
National Category
Social Sciences
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-23197ISBN: 1-5275-4674-8 (print)ISBN: 978-1-5275-4674-5 (print)OAI: oai:DiVA.org:hb-23197DiVA, id: diva2:1430237
Available from: 2020-05-14 Created: 2020-05-14 Last updated: 2023-05-15Bibliographically approved
In thesis
1. Performing second-hand retail: organizing the material re-circulation of goods
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Performing second-hand retail: organizing the material re-circulation of goods
2023 (English)Doctoral thesis, comprehensive summary (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

This thesis concerns second-hand retail and efforts to prepare used goods for re-circulation. Second-hand retail is one of the most promising forms of alternative retail. However, second hand retailers struggle to attract mainstream consumers and often fail to commercialize most of the used goods donated. Against this background, the thesis explores how second-hand retail is performed and the difficulties and contradictions involved in preparing used goods for re-circulation.   

Theoretically, a socio-material approach is used, drawing mainly on Actor-Network Theory, to analyze how second-hand retail is performed at ReTuna. ReTuna is a recycling shopping mall in Eskilstuna, Sweden, aimed at combining an attractive shopping mall setting with the local sourcing of used goods. The thesis draws on seven years of ethnographically-inspired fieldwork at the mall.  

The thesis highlights that the preparation of used goods is a performative endeavor. Preparation for re-selling is performed using four sets of intertwined socio-material practices; selecting, modifying, pricing, and marketing. These practices construct and re-construct what used goods are, simultaneously enacting several versions of second-hand retail. The processes involve heterogeneous goods, workforces, measures, and material conditions, due to this being messy and leading to uncertain outcomes. In addition, the different versions of second-hand retail sometimes collide during performative struggles over how to accomplish second-hand retail. These various complications constrain efforts to re-circulate the goods. 

The thesis contributes to the field of second-hand retailing and consumption by providing insights into what happens at second-hand stores when used goods transit from donors onto store shelves. It also depicts a new format for second-hand retail, i.e. the shopping mall. In practical terms, the thesis illustrates the work and skill needed to organize second-hand retail, as well as the importance of discussing the outcomes thereof, including the identification of the most desired out-comes. 

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Borås: Högskolan i Borås, 2023
Series
Skrifter från Högskolan i Borås, ISSN 0280-381X ; 140
Keywords
Second-hand retail, Material re-circulation, ReTuna, Textile management, Shopping mall, Actor-Network Theory
National Category
Other Social Sciences
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-29665 (URN)978-91-89833-00-5 (ISBN)978-91-89833-01-2 (ISBN)
Public defence
2023-06-09, Vestindien B, Skaraborgsvägen 3A, Borås, 10:00 (Swedish)
Opponent
Available from: 2023-05-15 Created: 2023-04-06 Last updated: 2023-05-15Bibliographically approved

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https://www.cambridgescholars.com/perspectives-on-waste-from-the-social-sciences-and-humanities

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Hedegård, LarsGustafsson, Eva

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