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Passform på kavaj- grundmönster: En studie om hur balansen mellan framstycke och bakstycke påverkar passformen
University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
2019 (Swedish)Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
Abstract [sv]

Denna studie tas fram i samarbete med ett stort svenskt modeföretag som har haft återkommande problem med balansen mellan fram och bak på dam-kavajer. Problemet uppstår oberoende av vilken leverantör som har tillverkat mönstret eller vilken provperson som provar plagget. Syftet med studien är att undersöka vad som orsakar balansfel mellan fram och bak i kavajer för dam och hur det kan åtgärdas. Studien undersöker olika konstruktioner från litteratur, som arbetas vidare med för att uppnå god passform. Den slutliga konstruktionen jämförs sedan med företagets kavaj som erhåller balansproblem för att se vilka åtgärder som bör göras på dessa kavajer. Studien utförs genom mönsterkonstruktion i ett CAD-program, uppsömnad av prototyper och slutligen avprovningar på en provdocka, tre provpersoner och virtuellt på en avatar i ett 3D- simuleringsprogram. Skillnaderna i passform mellan den obalanserade kavajen och den nya balanserade prototypen analyseras vid avprovningar. Resultatet visar ett kavaj-grundmönster där företagets återkommande balansproblem har korrigerats. Under studien framkommer det att balansproblemen mellan fram och bak hänger ihop med hur långt eller kort slaget är. Även axelsömmens lutning har stor betydelse för plaggets balans.

Abstract [en]

This study is developed in collaboration with a large Swedish fashion company that has had recurring problems with the balance between front and back of women's jackets. The problem arises regardless of which supplier has made the pattern or which test person is testing the garment. The purpose of the study is to investigate what causes balance problems between front and back of women’s jackets and how it can be corrected. The study examines various constructions from literature, which are further worked on to achieve a good fit. The final design is then compared to the company's jacket that receives balance problems to see what actions should be taken on these jackets.

The study is performed through pattern design in a CAD program, then prototypes are being sewn. Finally they are tested on one dummy, three test persons and it is also tested virtual on an avatar in a 3D simulation program. The differences in fit between the unbalanced jacket and the new balanced prototype are analyzed during tests. The result shows a basic pattern of a jacket where the company's recurring balance problems have been corrected. During the study it appears that the balance problems between the front and the back are linked to how long or short the lapel is. The tilt of the shoulder seam is also of great importance for the garment's balance.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
2019.
Keywords [en]
Fit, balance, pattern making, jacket, basic pattern
Keywords [sv]
Passform, balans, mönsterkonstruktion, kavaj, grundmönster
National Category
Engineering and Technology
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-21951OAI: oai:DiVA.org:hb-21951DiVA, id: diva2:1368442
Subject / course
Textilteknologi
Available from: 2019-11-08 Created: 2019-11-07 Last updated: 2019-11-08Bibliographically approved

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057a5a9ee2a94a5b02a17a6e8ea9f6e6f2065c91412578330051a919adcd5caa8ffdd36983762b8a5cd586c78991ee9bd3991d7a1220bb6bae175f3d94bd851e
Type fulltextMimetype application/pdf

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CiteExportLink to record
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Citation style
  • apa
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