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Does it really fit?: improve, find and evaluate garment fit
University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.ORCID iD: 0000-0002-0416-2926
2018 (English)Doctoral thesis, comprehensive summary (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

Clothes affect everyone; we wear them for all occasions; they silently communicate on our behalf, and they can enhance our level of confidence and comfort. For the garment to be comfortable, the garment fit has to be appropriate. Appropriate for the intended function and in line with the wearer’s preferences. For the garment to end up as an approved garment in the customer’s wardrobe, it has to be improved and evaluated many times over. The final evaluation to pass is when the customer finds the garment, tries it on and asks: Does it really fit? The common denominator for the studies included in this thesis is garment fit; the goal is to investigate some methods to improve, find and evaluate garment fit. To improve garment fit, two studies were done. One study is on improving garment fit with the help of a systematic model, based on anthropometric and garment numerical data; this is explored with the help of an experimental set up. The second study is on improving garment fit for the unique figure by offering made-to-measure garments, which is investigated with a structure of action research. An experimental strategy is used to find garments that fit, where the size and fit correspondence is compared between virtual and real garments. To tie everything together, variables for garment fit evaluation are identified with the help of a structured literature review and then analysed within each study. The result shows that the theoretical garment fit improves by using the systematic model. Both the overall accommodation for the target group increased as well as the fit value. The garment fit is improved for the unique figure; this is achieved through complex body measurements, invasive pattern modifications and garment make-up for fit evaluation. The accuracy for size selection based on virtual garments exceeded the one based on the more traditional key measurements. The variables involved in the garment fit evaluation can be divided into five areas: influencing factors, evaluations focus, resources, evaluators or fitting sessions.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Borås: Högskolan i Borås, 2018.
Series
Skrifter från Högskolan i Borås, ISSN 0280-381X ; 88
Keywords [en]
garment fit, fit value, pattern construction, pattern modifications, virtual, made-to-measure, custom-made, garment, garment simulation
National Category
Engineering and Technology
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-14321ISBN: 978-91-88269-96-6 (print)ISBN: 978-91-88269-97-3 (electronic)OAI: oai:DiVA.org:hb-14321DiVA, id: diva2:1216128
Public defence
2018-09-18, Vestindien, the Swedish School of Textiles,, Skaraborgsvägan 3, Borås, 10:00 (English)
Opponent
Available from: 2018-08-23 Created: 2018-06-11 Last updated: 2018-08-23Bibliographically approved
List of papers
1. Tailoring the Unique Figure
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Tailoring the Unique Figure
2000 (English)Licentiate thesis, monograph (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

Today, it is possible to offer customers a garment to order according to their desires and body figure. The new, more automatic, equipment and software make the process faster and possible to realise. However it is important to have the basic knowledge about how to adapt the patterns according to the many variations of figures that exists. Pattern construction for unique figures is covered in this study. The report begins with a background to the problem concerning finding suitable garments, followed by earlier initiatives. The main body of the study contains three main sections: body figure registration – including measurements, single pattern adaptations, and individual patterns.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Göteborgs universitet, 2000. p. 138
Series
Research report, ISSN 1403-7033
Keywords
dressmaking, pattern construction, pattern adaptation, figure registration, body measurement, disfigurement, clothes, garment, made-to-measure, mass customisation, klädsömnad, mönsterkonstruktion, tillskärning
National Category
Economics and Business
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15007 (URN)
Available from: 2018-08-21 Created: 2018-08-21 Last updated: 2018-08-21Bibliographically approved
2. A Systematic Model for Improving Theoretical Garment Fit
Open this publication in new window or tab >>A Systematic Model for Improving Theoretical Garment Fit
2018 (English)In: Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, ISSN 1361-2026, Vol. 22, no 4, p. 527-539Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to use a systematic model for detecting misfit between the garment and the target group.

Design/methodology/approach

Using an empirical–analytical methodology, the systematic model was tested. The input data were run through the model to generate the output data, which were analysed, including basic statistics. The purpose of the analysis was to detect misfit and improve the garment measurement chart. This procedure was repeated until a clear result was reached.

Findings

The result of this study is an optimised garment measurement chart, which considers the garment’s ease, different sizes/proportions in relation to a target group. The results show that it is possible to use a systematic model to define the shortcomings of a garment´s range of sizes and proportions.

Research limitations/implications

Further studies are needed to verify the results of the theoretical garment fit and their values in relation to real garment fit.

Practical implications

If the systematic model is implemented to improve the theoretical garment fit, this may have effects on the available garment sizes and its proportions, resulting in increased theoretical garment fit for the target group.

Originality/value

The paper presents a systematic model for detecting and eliminating theoretical fitting; the model includes both garment ease allowance and defined points of misfit.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Emerald Group Publishing Limited, 2018
National Category
Economics and Business
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15008 (URN)10.1108/JFMM-10-2017-0112 (DOI)
Available from: 2018-08-21 Created: 2018-08-21 Last updated: 2018-11-30Bibliographically approved
3. Can virtual try-on help in selecting the correct size?
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Can virtual try-on help in selecting the correct size?
(English)In: Clothing & Textiles Research Journal, ISSN 0887-302XArticle in journal (Refereed) Submitted
Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Sage Publications
National Category
Economics and Business
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15009 (URN)
Available from: 2018-08-21 Created: 2018-08-21 Last updated: 2019-02-15

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Hernández, Niina

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