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Designing and Living with Organisms Weaving Entangled Worlds as Doing Multispecies Philosophy
University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business. Smart Textiles Design Lab at the Swedish School of Textiles, University of Borås , Sweden ;;Centre for Information Technology and Architecture at the Royal Danish Academy , Copenhagen , Denmark.ORCID iD: 0000-0002-6679-4697
2021 (English)In: Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice, ISSN 2051-1787, Vol. 9, no 1, p. 9-30Article in journal (Refereed) [Artistic work] Published
Sustainable development
According to the author(s), the content of this publication falls within the area of sustainable development.
Abstract [en]

The emergence of biodesign opens new ways for textile design and production processes by e.g. using living organisms directly for growing or dyeing textiles. Researchers and designers who engage in such practices often describe their processes as a collaboration with the living. Since maintenance or acts of caring are often fundamental for a successful result, supportive environments for the living are created. However, most of the organisms are only used to carry out a specific task given by the designers’ intention, e.g., excreting pigments to dye a piece of silk, and are killed after the successful completion of the “collaborative” project, which is one of the reasons why the anthropocentric perspective remains an integral part of the textile design process.

This research aims to challenge the anthropocentrism inherent in textile design methodologies. Drawing from the work of Donna Haraway, in this exploratory paper, I advocate for exploring more than anthropocentric and multispecies perspectives to textile design by understanding the textile design practice as a way of being-with and staying-with, rather than as a solution-driven practice. Therefore, I revisit and reflect on three stories that derived from encounters between humans and insects in shared textile contexts. The stories on multispecies cohabitation resulted from the autobiographic research ‘Textile Farming’. Weaving connections between contemporary approaches to design, this paper proposes a conceptual framework of the levels that designers can engage with the living e.g., designing with, for, or together with living organisms up to living-with and becoming-with. I found these reflections to offer valuable perspectives to reflect on, analyze, and discuss processes in which living organisms play a role. Consequently, the paper contributes to reflective practice and opens up the textile design practice towards open-ended events as a more than anthropocentric approach to designing textiles.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Taylor & Francis, 2021. Vol. 9, no 1, p. 9-30
Keywords [en]
Artistic research, textile design, multispecies events, autobiographic design, biodesign
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-31194DOI: 10.1080/20511787.2021.1912897OAI: oai:DiVA.org:hb-31194DiVA, id: diva2:1825861
Projects
Designing and Licing with Organisms (DLO)
Funder
Swedish Research Council, 2020-00459Available from: 2024-01-10 Created: 2024-01-10 Last updated: 2024-01-10Bibliographically approved

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Keune, Svenja

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