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Body movement as material: Designing temporal expressions
University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.ORCID iD: 0000-0002-8753-9070
2021 (English)Doctoral thesis, comprehensive summary (Other academic) [Artistic work]
Abstract [en]

Movement and temporal qualities have a significant effect on design expressions. However, in the design of dress these are often overlooked, and the static form of a positioned body is considered to be the main driver of design. This work explores the expressions of the body in motion, engaged in the interaction constituted by wearing. Through a practice-led experimental approach, the research presented in this thesis aims to establish strategies for utilising the motion of the body in the context of design development. 

The research has been carried out through multiple series of experiments. Initial series of experiments focused on exploring wearing as an entwined dialogue between body and material that is expressing and informing the motion of the body. This was followed by series of experiments focusing on more particular variables such as body movement principles, material properties, and somatic experiences. Through analysing and implementing movement as a design material the work suggests an alternative type of form-thinking and form-giving where materiality together with the body movement extends garments into a temporal expression.

The result suggests an alternative model consisting of methods, concepts, and variables for design for designing temporal expressions wherein dress is defined as a temporal form and designed as a system of possible movements and ways in which a wearer can interact with a garment. Within this model, body movement is under-stood as a material and the body is viewed as a temporal structure and a mechanism for changes in the design. Overall, temporal expressions, or temporal form suggest acts of wearing and the somatic presence of the body as foundations in body-based expressions of equal importance as worn material. In particular, the design examples suggest another use of the joints of the body – the crucial points that enable move-ment – which were the main design material for temporal expressions.

The methods and thinking proposed in this thesis may be beneficial for multiple fields of art and design that use the body’s motion as design material extending the findings from the origins of dress.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Borås: Högskolan i Borås, 2021.
Series
University of Borås studies in artistic research ; 36
Keywords [en]
Design, body, body as material, fashion design, performing arts, temporal form, practice-led research, design methods, motion design
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-24427ISBN: 978-91-89271-14-2 (print)ISBN: 978-91-89271-15-9 (electronic)OAI: oai:DiVA.org:hb-24427DiVA, id: diva2:1510409
Public defence
2021-02-25, Zoom, 13:00 (English)
Opponent
Supervisors
Available from: 2021-01-19 Created: 2020-12-16 Last updated: 2021-01-26Bibliographically approved
List of papers
1. BODY OF MOVEMENT
Open this publication in new window or tab >>BODY OF MOVEMENT
2017 (English)Artistic output (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

Pictures and videos exhibited at Everything and Everybody as materials 2017. 

The work exemplifies how the body can extend into materiality and through this it questions the borders of the body not only in form, which is usually the case in fashion design, but also in movement qualities as temporal form. Further it high lightens the importance of awareness of movement qualities in materials of dress as they express the form.

The body is extended by its angular structure into the geometric form. 3 examples of the work was displayed. In its simplest form as lines connected with elastics, then the structure dressed in fabric and one where the structure is extended as squares. 

Keywords
Fashion design, performance, body movement
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-14184 (URN)
Available from: 2018-05-15 Created: 2018-05-15 Last updated: 2021-01-26Bibliographically approved
2. Enabling (e)motion
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Enabling (e)motion
2020 (English)In: Dance Articulated, Vol. 6, no 1, p. 25-44Article in journal (Refereed) [Artistic work] Published
Abstract [en]

This article discusses a practical exploration of the ability of a textile to meet with and affect bodies. It builds on the inherent ability of textiles, particularly in the form of a garment, to evoke movements and emotions. This paper suggests a shift in focus of the design of bodily materiality, towards an expression emerging from interactions connecting materiality and performativity. The findings are the result of 2.5 years of exploration, during which four performances, ten workshops, and four exhibitions were performed. The entwined parameters of expressing and informing are applied as a material choreographic thinking, which in this case results in a material choreography of openness, where expressing and informing are essential as entwined design parameters in the design of body-material interactions. The material choreography is developed as a method for addressing somatic experience, with improvements in terms of wellbeing and presence as aesthetic goals, focusing on reducing movements and emotions relating to stress for people suffering from chronic fatigue syndrome.

Keywords
Wearing, material choreography, somatic garments, somaesthetics
National Category
Design Performing Arts Other Health Sciences
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-23654 (URN)10.5324/DA.V6I1.3637 (DOI)
Available from: 2020-07-20 Created: 2020-07-20 Last updated: 2021-01-26Bibliographically approved
3. BODY FRAGMENTED - Temporal Expressions
Open this publication in new window or tab >>BODY FRAGMENTED - Temporal Expressions
2020 (English)In: VIS Journal, ISSN 2003-024X, Vol. 4Article in journal (Refereed) [Artistic work] Published
Abstract [en]

In response to digital technology, new methods, thinking and aesthetics have emerged that challenge the way we design. In particular, the extraction of movement introduced by motion-capture technology proposes a design process wherein the motion rather than the form is used as a material. In such a process, the motion is extracted from a defined set of points that creates a digital representation. In this exposition, the strategies utilized when capturing a motion is translated into the process of garment making resulting in other bodily aesthetics through dress. 

Practically, this exposition is based on two independent studies that aim to define parameters for transformations of the moving body’s expression applied to a garment making process. The transformation is approached from two different perspectives; the first study is non-material and borrows theory and references from the field of dance and motion capturing technology. It maps the body as a point-based system based on the body as a moving form and pin-points body functions that affect these points. This part serves as a foundation for the second study that adds material aspects to the work, in particular, by mapping material parameters that relate to how the material is arranged in relation to these points. 

 

In conclusion, strategies of extraction of movement as the attachments and the scale of fragmentation of materials are considered as the main contribution to the garment making process. As it proposes a new usage of movement, the work has implications for fashion design, costume design and other body movement-based practices.

Keywords
Motion capturing, motion design, fashion design, body extended, performing body
National Category
Design Performing Arts Visual Arts
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-23934 (URN)
Available from: 2020-10-16 Created: 2020-10-16 Last updated: 2022-01-20Bibliographically approved
4. STM16:9fft_VR: Virtual surrealism and site specific VR
Open this publication in new window or tab >>STM16:9fft_VR: Virtual surrealism and site specific VR
2019 (English)Conference paper, Oral presentation with published abstract (Refereed) [Artistic work]
Abstract [en]

Through this abstract, STM16:9fft_VR, a pilot for a VR film is discussed and presented. The project is developed through a collaboration between Nicole Neidert, choreographer, Joakim Envik Karlsson, film photographer, and Linnea Bågander costume designer. The pilot is part ofNarrative VR Lab, a project initiated and funded by Visual Arena, Region of Halland, Gothenburg city and Gothenburg Film Studios and supervised by Visual Arena.

When entering into a new set of tools we started to, not only explore them physically but also by its definition. We asked ourselves what virtual is and found intriguing definition such as; “almost a particular thing or quality”, “very close to being something without actuallybeing it” or; “not physically existing as such but made by software to appear to do so.” (Merriam-Webster, 2019). The technical tools suggest this ‘almostness’ and we started to explore how to implement it in the process of developing a narrative. Parallels to surrealismcame naturally and when finding the definition of surrealisms narration as “means of unnatural or irrational juxtapositions and combinations” (Merriam-Webster, 2019) it became obvious how to not only work with the technical tools but also to explore the narrative, through a meeting between a natural context and an artificial figure. Methodologically we used the experience of working with a stage-based and site-specificworks to develop a narrative-driven by visual means mainly. The narrative was an interaction between dance, costume and visual situation. A dialogue between materials and bodies, mainly using movements of bodies and directions formed by the natural environment to drive the narrative. In the presentation, the possibilities and limitations to situate, distort and the experience of the reality of both virtual reality and the reality of site-specific and stage based performing arts will be discussed and compared.

Keywords
Digital and analogue, immersive, performing arts, artistic methodology
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-22636 (URN)
Conference
II. Zip-Scene Conference on Analogue and Digital Immersive Spaces, Budapest, 10-12 November, 2019.
Available from: 2020-01-22 Created: 2020-01-22 Last updated: 2021-01-26Bibliographically approved

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