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Management of sustainable fashion retail based on reuse: A struggle with multiple logics
Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi. (Sustainable marketing and consumption research group)ORCID-id: 0000-0002-0018-1185
Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi.ORCID-id: 0000-0001-9007-4932
Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi. (Textile Value chain Management)ORCID-id: 0000-0001-7193-5362
2019 (Engelska)Ingår i: The International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research, ISSN 0959-3969Artikel i tidskrift (Refereegranskat) Epub ahead of print
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Abstract [en]

In scholarly conversations, reuse is one of the common suggested strategies to render fashion retail sustainable. Previous research has stressed the complexity of fashion reuse and the importance of a well-organized system. The complexity stems from processes that involve many actors as well as products hard to evaluate. Consequently, it is challenging to organize reuse-based fashion retail, and studies are needed to further develop knowledge regarding how to manage such systems. Hence, the purpose of this paper is to highlight the complexity in the management of such an initiative, by identifying and explaining obstacles as well as implications. With institutional logics as a framework, three local logics (shopping mall, reuse, and work integration) are used to analyze the management of a reuse-based mall. Despite the mall’s success in getting sufficient donations and creating publicity, it has struggled to establish itself as viable reuse-based fashion retail. The findings illustrate the complexity created by the interplay of different logics and how the complexity influences both the daily and strategic management of the mall. Further, the outcome of this interplay depends largely on which rationality is enacted by involved actors. The study also extends literature on institutional logics, showing that differences in individual actors’ attention, knowledge, skills, coordination, and material conditions influence how logics are enacted and managed. We suggest that there are inherent managerial contradictions in the sustainable practices in fashion retail. Thus, in scholarly conversations, it is important to discuss what different divergent sustainability dimensions imply when seeking solutions for sustainable retail. In practice, there is a need to acknowledge and balance the presence of multiple logics, making it crucial to have competence in all logics. Also, managers of reuse-based fashion retail must consciously and continuously scrutinize their own strategies and actions to avoid an imbalance between the logics.

Ort, förlag, år, upplaga, sidor
2019.
Nyckelord [en]
Sustainable fashion retail, institutional logics, management of fashion reuse, multiple logics, circular fashion supply chain
Nationell ämneskategori
Ekonomi och näringsliv
Forskningsämne
Textil och mode (generell); Textil och mode (generell)
Identifikatorer
URN: urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-21865DOI: 10.1080/09593969.2019.1667855ISI: 000492436900001Scopus ID: 2-s2.0-85074040612OAI: oai:DiVA.org:hb-21865DiVA, id: diva2:1362154
Tillgänglig från: 2019-10-18 Skapad: 2019-10-18 Senast uppdaterad: 2023-05-15Bibliografiskt granskad
Ingår i avhandling
1. Performing second-hand retail: organizing the material re-circulation of goods
Öppna denna publikation i ny flik eller fönster >>Performing second-hand retail: organizing the material re-circulation of goods
2023 (Engelska)Doktorsavhandling, sammanläggning (Övrigt vetenskapligt)
Abstract [en]

This thesis concerns second-hand retail and efforts to prepare used goods for re-circulation. Second-hand retail is one of the most promising forms of alternative retail. However, second hand retailers struggle to attract mainstream consumers and often fail to commercialize most of the used goods donated. Against this background, the thesis explores how second-hand retail is performed and the difficulties and contradictions involved in preparing used goods for re-circulation.   

Theoretically, a socio-material approach is used, drawing mainly on Actor-Network Theory, to analyze how second-hand retail is performed at ReTuna. ReTuna is a recycling shopping mall in Eskilstuna, Sweden, aimed at combining an attractive shopping mall setting with the local sourcing of used goods. The thesis draws on seven years of ethnographically-inspired fieldwork at the mall.  

The thesis highlights that the preparation of used goods is a performative endeavor. Preparation for re-selling is performed using four sets of intertwined socio-material practices; selecting, modifying, pricing, and marketing. These practices construct and re-construct what used goods are, simultaneously enacting several versions of second-hand retail. The processes involve heterogeneous goods, workforces, measures, and material conditions, due to this being messy and leading to uncertain outcomes. In addition, the different versions of second-hand retail sometimes collide during performative struggles over how to accomplish second-hand retail. These various complications constrain efforts to re-circulate the goods. 

The thesis contributes to the field of second-hand retailing and consumption by providing insights into what happens at second-hand stores when used goods transit from donors onto store shelves. It also depicts a new format for second-hand retail, i.e. the shopping mall. In practical terms, the thesis illustrates the work and skill needed to organize second-hand retail, as well as the importance of discussing the outcomes thereof, including the identification of the most desired out-comes. 

Ort, förlag, år, upplaga, sidor
Borås: Högskolan i Borås, 2023
Serie
Skrifter från Högskolan i Borås, ISSN 0280-381X ; 140
Nyckelord
Second-hand retail, Material re-circulation, ReTuna, Textile management, Shopping mall, Actor-Network Theory
Nationell ämneskategori
Annan samhällsvetenskap
Forskningsämne
Textil och mode (generell)
Identifikatorer
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-29665 (URN)978-91-89833-00-5 (ISBN)978-91-89833-01-2 (ISBN)
Disputation
2023-06-09, Vestindien B, Skaraborgsvägen 3A, Borås, 10:00 (Svenska)
Opponent
Tillgänglig från: 2023-05-15 Skapad: 2023-04-06 Senast uppdaterad: 2023-05-15Bibliografiskt granskad

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Hedegård, LarsGustafsson, EvaParas, Manoj Kumar

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