Ändra sökning
RefereraExporteraLänk till posten
Permanent länk

Direktlänk
Referera
Referensformat
  • apa
  • harvard1
  • ieee
  • modern-language-association-8th-edition
  • vancouver
  • Annat format
Fler format
Språk
  • de-DE
  • en-GB
  • en-US
  • fi-FI
  • nn-NO
  • nn-NB
  • sv-SE
  • Annat språk
Fler språk
Utmatningsformat
  • html
  • text
  • asciidoc
  • rtf
Kinetic garment construction: remarks on the foundations of pattern cutting
Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi. (Modedesign)
2015 (Engelska)Doktorsavhandling, monografi (Övrigt vetenskapligt) [Forskning på konstnärlig grund]
Abstract [en]

Fashion designers are presented with a range of different methods for pattern cutting, and the interest in this field has grown rapidly over the past few years. This growth is both due to the publication of a number of works dealing with the subject in different ways and the fact that a growing number of designers emphasise cutting in their creative practices.

Though a range of methods and concepts for pattern cutting are presented, the main body of these methods, both traditional and contemporary, is predominately based on a theoretical approximation of the body that is derived from horizontal and vertical measurements of the body in an upright position: the tailoring matrix. As a consequence, there is a lack of interactive and dynamic qualities in methods connected to this paradigm of garment construction, from both expressional and functional perspectives.

This work proposes and explores an alternative paradigm for pattern cutting that includes a new theoretical approximation of the body as well as a more kinetic method for garment construction that, unlike the prevalent theory and its related methods, takes as its point of origin the interaction between the anisotropic fabric and the biomechanical structure of the body. As such, the research conducted here is basic research, aiming to identify fundamental principles for garment construction. Based on some key principles found in the works of Geneviève Sevin-Doering and in pre-tailoring methods for constructing garments, the proposed theory for – and method of – garment construction was developed through concrete experiments by cutting and draping fabrics on live models.

Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the result is a kinetic construction theory of the body that is comprised of balance directions and key biomechanical points, along with an alternative draping method for dressmaking. This methodology challenges the fundamental relationship between dress, garment construction, and the body, working from the body outward, as opposed to the methods that are based on the prevalent paradigm of the tailoring matrix, which work from the outside toward the body. This alternative theory for understanding the body and the proposed method of working allows for diverse expressions and enhanced functional possibilities in dress.

Ort, förlag, år, upplaga, sidor
Borås: Högskolan i Borås, 2015. , 347 s.
Serie
University of Borås studies in artistic research, 13
Nationell ämneskategori
Övrig annan teknik
Forskningsämne
Textil och mode (konstnärlig)
Identifikatorer
URN: urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-25ISBN: 978-91-87525-41-4 (tryckt)ISBN: 978-91-87525-42-1 (tryckt)OAI: oai:DiVA.org:hb-25DiVA: diva2:793364
Disputation
2015-04-29, Vestindien B, The Swedish School of Textiles, Skaraborgsvägen 3A, Borås, 10:00 (Engelska)
Opponent
Tillgänglig från: 2015-05-19 Skapad: 2015-03-06 Senast uppdaterad: 2016-03-30Bibliografiskt granskad

Open Access i DiVA

fulltext(221 kB)164 nedladdningar
Filinformation
Filnamn FULLTEXT02.pdfFilstorlek 221 kBChecksumma SHA-512
a4726dc2ae7a1249e80c6a2ff2195d199eb4be98c6f0e0d3a61d1a18b0371bfec2469b7933326b5fbff230b079eb785087b5ba92bf580f1e6f75a36d1c0ab44e
Typ coverMimetyp application/pdf
fulltext version 2(17891 kB)1228 nedladdningar
Filinformation
Filnamn FULLTEXT03.pdfFilstorlek 17891 kBChecksumma SHA-512
dda3d7870705f1ac02fba3d76a0207dd3737c9121e170ad88727295acd7a69021a8380e94d705d72831dc700a2f31420847feb7edeeaa39b9032248cc3053fce
Typ fulltextMimetyp application/pdf

Personposter BETA

Lindqvist, Rickard

Sök vidare i DiVA

Av författaren/redaktören
Lindqvist, Rickard
Av organisationen
Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi
Övrig annan teknik

Sök vidare utanför DiVA

GoogleGoogle Scholar
Totalt: 1421 nedladdningar
Antalet nedladdningar är summan av nedladdningar för alla fulltexter. Det kan inkludera t.ex tidigare versioner som nu inte längre är tillgängliga.

isbn
urn-nbn

Altmetricpoäng

isbn
urn-nbn
Totalt: 2178 träffar
RefereraExporteraLänk till posten
Permanent länk

Direktlänk
Referera
Referensformat
  • apa
  • harvard1
  • ieee
  • modern-language-association-8th-edition
  • vancouver
  • Annat format
Fler format
Språk
  • de-DE
  • en-GB
  • en-US
  • fi-FI
  • nn-NO
  • nn-NB
  • sv-SE
  • Annat språk
Fler språk
Utmatningsformat
  • html
  • text
  • asciidoc
  • rtf