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Publications (10 of 19) Show all publications
Devendorf, L., Walters, K., Fairbanks, M., Sandry, E. & Goodwill, E. R. (2023). AdaCAD: Parametric Design as a New Form of Notation for Complex Weaving. In: Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems - Proceedings: . Paper presented at CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems, CHI 2023, Hamburg, Germany, 23 - 28 April, 2023.. ACM Digital Library
Open this publication in new window or tab >>AdaCAD: Parametric Design as a New Form of Notation for Complex Weaving
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2023 (English)In: Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems - Proceedings, ACM Digital Library, 2023Conference paper, Published paper (Refereed) [Artistic work]
Abstract [en]

Woven textiles are increasingly a medium through which HCI is inventing new technologies. Key challenges in integrating woven textiles in HCI include the high level of textile knowledge required to make effective use of the new possibilities they afford and the need for tools that bridge the concerns of textile designers and concerns of HCI researchers. This paper presents AdaCAD, a parametric design tool for designing woven textile structures. Through our design and evaluation of AdaCAD we found that parametric design helps weavers notate and explain the logics behind the complex structures they generate. We discuss these finding in relation to prior work in integrating craft and/or weaving in HCI, histories of woven notation, and boundary object theory to illuminate further possibilities for collaboration between craftspeople and HCI practitioners.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
ACM Digital Library, 2023
Keywords
computer-aided design, first-person methods, open-source, parametric design, smart textiles, textile fabrication, weaving
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-29893 (URN)10.1145/3544548.3581571 (DOI)001048393807037 ()2-s2.0-85160022991 (Scopus ID)
Conference
CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems, CHI 2023, Hamburg, Germany, 23 - 28 April, 2023.
Available from: 2023-06-12 Created: 2023-06-12 Last updated: 2023-11-07Bibliographically approved
Lewis, E., Kooroshnia, M., Dumitrescu, D. & Walters, K. (2023). Colour, texture, and luminance: Textile design methods for printing with electroluminescent inks. Cultura e Scienza del Colore - Color Culture and Science Journal, 15(1), 27-34
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Colour, texture, and luminance: Textile design methods for printing with electroluminescent inks
2023 (English)In: Cultura e Scienza del Colore - Color Culture and Science Journal, ISSN 2384-9568, Vol. 15, no 1, p. 27-34Article in journal (Refereed) [Artistic work] Published
Abstract [en]

Printable smart materials offer textile designers a range of changeable colours, with the potential to redefine the expressive properties of static textiles. However, this comes with the challenge of understanding how the printing process may need to be adapted for these novel materials. This research explores and exemplifies the properties and potential of electroluminescent inks as printable smart colours for textiles, in order to facilitate an understanding of designing complex surface patterns with electroluminescent inks. Three conventional textile print methods – colour mixing, halftone rasterization, and overlapping – have been investigated through experimental design research to expand the design potential of electroluminescent inks. The result presents a set of methods to create various color mixtures and design complex patterns. It offers recipes for print formulation and documents the outcomes, offering a new design resource for textile surface pattern designers to promote creativity in design, and provides fundamental knowledge for the creation of patterns on textiles using electroluminescent inks.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Milan: , 2023
Keywords
electroluminescent printing, smart textiles, textile design, texture, colour mixing
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-29831 (URN)10.23738/CCSJ.150104 (DOI)2-s2.0-85164979831 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2023-05-23 Created: 2023-05-23 Last updated: 2024-02-01Bibliographically approved
Walters, K. (2023). Flex. Norrköping: Nordes 2023, Linköping University
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Flex
2023 (English)Artistic output (Unrefereed)
Place, publisher, year, pages
Norrköping: Nordes 2023, Linköping University, 2023
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-30446 (URN)
Available from: 2023-09-07 Created: 2023-09-07 Last updated: 2023-09-07Bibliographically approved
Walters, K. & Kapsali, V. (2023). From Boxfish to Twistbox: Developing a Woven Textile Hinge Through Bio-inspired Design. In: : . Paper presented at Textile Intersections.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>From Boxfish to Twistbox: Developing a Woven Textile Hinge Through Bio-inspired Design
2023 (English)Conference paper, Oral presentation only (Refereed) [Artistic work]
Abstract [en]

In woven textile-form design, layers may be stacked in a pleat structure, in order to provide greater area from a limited weaving width, or to create shaping in a rectangular cloth. The layers are typically joined by weaving them together where their edges meet. However, this method of joining creates a thickened seam, and may prevent the layers from opening flat. This paper presents a woven textile hinge structure, which enables joined layers to be opened flat, without adding extra thickness, or requiring further finishing. Its utility is demonstrated through the Twistbox, an eight-layer textile-form, woven flat, which unfolds into a cube, and can be collapsed and unfolded indefinitely. The structure was produced through experimental design research, in the context of a bio-inspired design collaboration. Inspired by natural suture structures, the hinge structure broadens possibilities for woven textile-form design, while its development provides a case for how biomimetics may be applied in textile design.

Keywords
weaving, textile-form design, biomimetics, suture structure
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-31142 (URN)
Conference
Textile Intersections
Available from: 2024-01-08 Created: 2024-01-08 Last updated: 2024-01-12Bibliographically approved
Walters, K. (2022). Emergent behaviour as a forming strategy in craft: The workmanship of risk applied to industrial-loom weaving. Craft Research, 13(2), 327-348
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Emergent behaviour as a forming strategy in craft: The workmanship of risk applied to industrial-loom weaving
2022 (English)In: Craft Research, ISSN 2040-4689, E-ISSN 2040-4697, Vol. 13, no 2, p. 327-348Article in journal (Refereed) [Artistic work] Published
Abstract [en]

Digital tools such as computer-aided design and computer-aided manufacturing (CAD/CAM) have expanded the nature of craft practice, offering new means of design and making. However, in weaving, handmaking continues to be privileged, despite the acceptance of digital design and computer-controlled lifting mechanisms. Through experimental design research methods, self-forming three-dimensional textiles were designed in CAD software and woven on a computer-controlled jacquard power loom (a CAM tool). The textiles' three dimensionality arises from the combination of materials (contrasting shrinking and stiff yarns), structure and finishing. They are contextualized as craft objects through Pye's concept of 'the workmanship of risk'. As outcomes of a craft process, they illustrate the potential of industrial looms as tools for producing complex textile systems and expressions. The results include a method for crafting at the intersection of the workmanship of risk and CAD/CAM, providing a framework for this hybrid practice. The concept of emergent behaviour is discussed as a craft strategy when the workmanship of risk is focused on material forming rather than the tool or technique. This concept is contextualized beyond weaving, suggesting its applicability to other craft fields and practices, whether produced by hand or with the use of digital tools. 

Keywords
3D textiles, active materials, CAD/CAM, design research, digital fabrication, jacquard woven textile, uncertainty
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-28965 (URN)10.1386/crre_00082_1 (DOI)000879158400006 ()2-s2.0-85138722357 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2022-11-23 Created: 2022-11-23 Last updated: 2023-09-01Bibliographically approved
Walters, K. (2022). Penguin. Berlin
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Penguin
2022 (English)Artistic output (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

The form of the Penguin textile artifact arises from an experiment exploring a three-layer weave-and-cut pleat structure (developed by Holly McQuillan: McQuillan, 2020), but transposing it to a closed volume incorporating stiff and shrinking yarns. The woven geometry is a simple one, and it is the interaction of the material and structure that gives rise to complex three-dimensional form. Penguin arises from a 'form-finding' design process (Baerlecken & Wright, 2014): one that allows space for the natural tendencies of the materials within a structure to produce three-dimensional form.

Exhibited in Drafts:3. Curators Jane Tepe, Faseeh Saleem, Vidmina Stasiulyte, Berit Greinke.

Place, publisher, year, pages
Berlin: , 2022
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-29440 (URN)
Available from: 2023-02-10 Created: 2023-02-10 Last updated: 2023-03-30Bibliographically approved
Walters, K. (2022). Twist-box. Berlin
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Twist-box
2022 (English)Artistic output (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

The Twist-box was designed to develop and showcase the suture structure at its fold-lines. This weave structure enables two wovenlayers to unfold and refold flat. The design process leading to this artifact included tests exploring variations of the suture structure, before a paper model of the box was produced, and a number of woven iterations were produced. Each iteration was examined for flaws, and thus informed the next iteration, which crept closer to the ideal of the paper model. Thus the design process for the Twist-box was a hylomorphic one (Ingold, 2010). Its complex weave structures lead to a simple geometric form, and each development was a narrowing of possibility.

Exhibited in Drafts:3. Curators Jane Tepe, Faseeh Saleem, Vidmina Stasiulyte, Berit Greinke.

Place, publisher, year, pages
Berlin: , 2022
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-29439 (URN)
Available from: 2023-02-10 Created: 2023-02-10 Last updated: 2023-03-30Bibliographically approved
Walters, K. (2021). 2D to 3D workshop: A method for teaching form-generating processes through the exploration of contrasting material combinations. In: MusicoGuia (Ed.), Conference Proceedings CIVAE 2021: 3rd Interdisciplinary and Virtual Conference on Arts in Education: . Paper presented at CIVAE 2021: 3rd Interdisciplinary and Virtual Conference on Arts in Education, Madrid, Spain, July 14-15, 2021..
Open this publication in new window or tab >>2D to 3D workshop: A method for teaching form-generating processes through the exploration of contrasting material combinations
2021 (English)In: Conference Proceedings CIVAE 2021: 3rd Interdisciplinary and Virtual Conference on Arts in Education / [ed] MusicoGuia, 2021Conference paper, Published paper (Refereed) [Artistic work]
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-26523 (URN)
Conference
CIVAE 2021: 3rd Interdisciplinary and Virtual Conference on Arts in Education, Madrid, Spain, July 14-15, 2021.
Available from: 2021-09-23 Created: 2021-09-23 Last updated: 2023-06-12
Walters, K. (2021). A role for industrial looms in craft research. In: Janne Beate Reitan (Ed.), FormAkademisk - research journal of design and design education, Special Issue: Proceedings of BICCS 2021 - Biennial International Conference for the Craft Sciences.. Paper presented at BICCS 2021 Biennial International Conference for the Craft Sciences, ONLINE, May 4-6, 2021. Oslo, 14(2)
Open this publication in new window or tab >>A role for industrial looms in craft research
2021 (English)In: FormAkademisk - research journal of design and design education, Special Issue: Proceedings of BICCS 2021 - Biennial International Conference for the Craft Sciences. / [ed] Janne Beate Reitan, Oslo, 2021, Vol. 14, no 2Conference paper, Published paper (Refereed) [Artistic work]
Abstract [en]

As a definition of craft practice, the workmanship of risk emphasises the judgement and skill of the crafter, as they engage with materials, tools, and techniques to produce artefacts. Through experimental design research methods, self-forming three-dimensional textiles were created with the aim to develop both the use of digital and automated tools for weaving, and language to describe the process of textural forming in weaving when hand and machine meet. Examples of experimental work illustrate the potential of industrial looms as tools for crafting complex textile systems and expressions. The results include a method for crafting at the intersection of the workmanship of risk and CAD/CAM, providing a framework for this hybrid practice, while a new language of textile forming for craft including industrial and CAD/CAM tools emerges.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Oslo: , 2021
Keywords
Woven textile design, jacquard weaving, craft research, digital fabrication, CAD/CAM
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-25379 (URN)10.7577/formakademisk.4202 (DOI)2-s2.0-85107282557 (Scopus ID)
Conference
BICCS 2021 Biennial International Conference for the Craft Sciences, ONLINE, May 4-6, 2021
Available from: 2021-05-04 Created: 2021-05-04 Last updated: 2024-02-01Bibliographically approved
McQuillan, H., Peterson, K. & Walters, K. (2021). Critical Textile Topologies: Experiment 0 (trouser).
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Critical Textile Topologies: Experiment 0 (trouser)
2021 (English)Artistic output (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

How do we design and produce textile-forms for the body without creating waste?

National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-27299 (URN)
Available from: 2022-01-17 Created: 2022-01-17 Last updated: 2022-01-17Bibliographically approved
Organisations
Identifiers
ORCID iD: ORCID iD iconorcid.org/0000-0003-0359-6738

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