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Talman, Riikka
Publications (6 of 6) Show all publications
Talman, R. (2019). Changeability as a quality in textile design. (Licentiate dissertation). Högskolan i Borås
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Changeability as a quality in textile design
2019 (English)Licentiate thesis, comprehensive summary (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

The tendency to wear out and change is inherent in most materials, but – aside from a few exceptions – has been considered to be undesirable by both the industry and consumers. The work presented in this licentiate thesis suggests that, due to change in some form being an inherent property of textiles, it may be viable to look for alternative ways of designing and perceiving textiles that accept change as one of their qualities.

 The experimental work explores change as a quality in textiles from the perspective of the textile material, and examines irreversible changes in textiles from three different perspectives: form, use, and teaching changeability in the field of textile design. Changes in colour, pattern, texture, and structure were explored by developing knitted and woven textiles using materials with pronounced changeable properties, and exposing these to various stimuli, such as outdoor conditions and use in workshops.

The experiments suggest that the combination of material and structure defines how textiles change when exposed to various stimuli. A material’s properties define what the textile reacts to and how, while the structure of the textile influences how it changes through the amount and placement of materials. In addition, time and the handling of a textile shape the exact changes that take place.

Designing with changeability as a quality in textiles opens up for alternative possibilities as regards creating expressions, wherein time and change are design variables alongside more traditional qualities, and could encourage a diversity of lifespans and changes over various timescales, better connecting textiles to the properties of their raw materials. This may mean that an alternative method for evaluating quality based on change instead of permanence could be viable, wherein the notion of permanence as a sign of quality in textiles is questioned.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Högskolan i Borås, 2019
Series
University of Borås studies in artistic research ; 28
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15990 (URN)978-91-88838-30-8 (ISBN)
Available from: 2019-04-23 Created: 2019-04-15 Last updated: 2019-04-23Bibliographically approved
Talman, R. (2019). Designing for multiple expressions: Questioning permanence as a sign of quality in textiles. The Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice, 6(2), 201-221
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Designing for multiple expressions: Questioning permanence as a sign of quality in textiles
2019 (English)In: The Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice, Vol. 6, no 2, p. 201-221Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Developing alternative materials and methods of production and recycling is crucial to achieving more sustainable, circular textile practices. In addition to these, a shift in how textiles are perceived may well be needed. Textile practice has long sought to create textiles that, regardless of their material or post-production treatments do not subsequently change in expression, eliminating the fading of colors and wearing out of materials. Questioning this in order to evaluate quality, durability, and aesthetics may open up for greater circularity through extending product lifetimes, and allowing change to be embraced rather than delaying the signs of aging. This paper presents work that challenges the notion of permanence as a sign of quality in textiles by shifting the focus towards creating textiles that are capable of developing different visual expressions over time.

By examining the natural changes in color of materials in plain and Jacquard-patterned woven textiles made of several materials, this paper explores the possibilities relating to designing textile patterns that can evolve in multiple different directions from one starting point. Textiles woven with a combination of different materials were used in various contexts, including outdoors, in order to explore how the materials reacted. The resulting color combinations varied depending on what conditions the material was exposed to, suggesting a more versatile view on the aesthetics of textiles.

The results indicate that various colors, patterns, and structures can be achieved from one starting point, indicating that an alternative definition for quality, based on the aesthetics of change, may be viable. The natural aging of materials could be used in design processes to embed evolving patterns, colors, or structures in textiles, reconnecting textile products with the inherent, changeable qualities of materials. 

Keywords
textile design, sustainability, circularity, lifespan, evolving patterns
National Category
Design
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15989 (URN)10.1080/20511787.2018.1514697 (DOI)
Available from: 2019-04-15 Created: 2019-04-15 Last updated: 2019-04-18Bibliographically approved
Peterson, K. & Talman, R. (2018). Merging Formable Textileas and Flexible Moulds: In search of new design methods and expressive qualities in the fields of textile and fashion.. In: : . Paper presented at Fashion Colliquium, Arnhem NL, 31 May - 1 June, 2018.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Merging Formable Textileas and Flexible Moulds: In search of new design methods and expressive qualities in the fields of textile and fashion.
2018 (English)Conference paper, Oral presentation with published abstract (Other academic) [Artistic work]
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-14231 (URN)
Conference
Fashion Colliquium, Arnhem NL, 31 May - 1 June, 2018
Available from: 2018-05-22 Created: 2018-05-22 Last updated: 2019-04-15Bibliographically approved
Dumitrescu, D., Landin, H., Kooroshnia, M. & Talman, R. (2018). On researching and teaching Textile Design: examples from the Swedish School of Textiles (3ed.). In: Nimkurat, N., Raebild, U., Piper, A. (Ed.), Soft Landing: (pp. 72-87). Helsinki, Finland: Cumulus International Association of Universities and Collegies in Art, Design, Media
Open this publication in new window or tab >>On researching and teaching Textile Design: examples from the Swedish School of Textiles
2018 (English)In: Soft Landing / [ed] Nimkurat, N., Raebild, U., Piper, A., Helsinki, Finland: Cumulus International Association of Universities and Collegies in Art, Design, Media , 2018, 3, p. 72-87Chapter in book (Refereed) [Artistic work]
Abstract [en]

Artistic research in design is relatively new compared to experimental research in the natural sciences but it has matured a great deal over the last decade. Its extensive development has brought new challenges to professional practice, and also raised questions regarding how knowledge should be imparted in academia. By examining the field of textile design, which has traditionally been taught in close synergy with professional practice, we can discern the emergence of doctoral theses that have brought not only new perspectives to textile practice but also a new role to the design educator as a researcher within the academia. One of the challenges that design education program are facing, however, relates to creating a better connection between research and education in order to continually enrich curricula with new developments in the field, so that basic knowledge and novelty can interact. By looking closely at the development of the research environment at The Swedish School of Textiles and the interaction with undergraduate and postgraduate education, this chapter describes how research has informed the development of textile design education.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Helsinki, Finland: Cumulus International Association of Universities and Collegies in Art, Design, Media, 2018 Edition: 3
Series
ISBN ; 978-952-60-0083-1
Keywords
smart textiles, teaching methods, textile design
National Category
Humanities and the Arts
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-13983 (URN)
Projects
Smart Textiles
Funder
VINNOVA
Available from: 2018-04-17 Created: 2018-04-17 Last updated: 2019-04-15Bibliographically approved
(2017). Exhibition on on-going research, experimental work and prototypes in textile design from the Smart Textiles Design Lab at Techtextil 2017 in Frankfurt on 9-12th May 2017.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Exhibition on on-going research, experimental work and prototypes in textile design from the Smart Textiles Design Lab at Techtextil 2017 in Frankfurt on 9-12th May 2017
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2017 (English)Artistic output (Unrefereed)
National Category
Design
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-12489 (URN)
Funder
VINNOVA
Available from: 2017-08-23 Created: 2017-08-23 Last updated: 2019-02-13Bibliographically approved
(2014). Exhibition on on-going research, experimental work and prototypes in textile design from the Smart Textiles Design Lab at the PhD exhibition at “Shaping (Un)common Grounds”, ArcInTex-conference, Eindhoven, the Netherlands on 2014/10/13-17.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Exhibition on on-going research, experimental work and prototypes in textile design from the Smart Textiles Design Lab at the PhD exhibition at “Shaping (Un)common Grounds”, ArcInTex-conference, Eindhoven, the Netherlands on 2014/10/13-17
2014 (English)Artistic output (Unrefereed)
National Category
Design
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-12544 (URN)
Available from: 2017-08-28 Created: 2017-08-28 Last updated: 2019-02-13Bibliographically approved
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