Silk-weaving in Sweden during the 19th century. Textiles and texts - An evaluation of the source material. With the rich material available, 19th century silk-weaving invites to studies on industrialisation processes. The purpose of this licentiate thesis is to present and discuss an empirical material regarding silk production in Sweden in the 19th century, to examine the possibilities and problems of different kinds of materials when used as source materials, and to describe how this material can be systematized and analysed in relation to the perspective of a textile scientific interpretation. The introductory sections of the thesis provide a background to textile research and the subject of textile science. This is followed by an overview of previous research on silk-weaving in Sweden and a historical overview of silk-weaving in Sweden, the Jacquard machine, and the K.A. Almgren Sidenväveri, where large parts of the source material have been preserved. After these overviews, the research material is described and systematized: first the main materials, textiles, machines and other objects, and then the various written sources. By way of conclusion, the empirical material is summarized in a critical discussion where the various groups of materials are evaluated in comparison to one another. A discussion on theory and methodology regarding objects as sources and the use of experience-based knowledge in academic research is developed in connection to the critical discussion. Finally, the potential of the material is demonstrated through a textile example. The presentation is an introduction to the cultural-historical analysis that will follow in the PhD thesis. Here, the empirical material will be analysed through the use of knowledge in handicrafts, which may create new dimensions of silk production in Sweden and the complexity of the industrialisation process.

The design of the golden gown of queen Margareta of Denmark, kept in the treasury of Uppsala Cathedral, has been reproduced as a printed fabric by Durán Textiles AB. A replica of the dress has been made and photografed to give a vision of how the golden gown might have been worn.

In 1951 a body of a man was found during peat digging in a peat bog at Gunnister, Shetland Islands, Great Britain. The man had been wearing a shirt, breeches, coat and a jacket made of fulled wool fabrics. His stockings, gloves, 2 caps and a small purse were knitted from wool yarn. In the purse there were two Dutch and one Swedish coin of 1683, which date the costume to around 1700. Following a partnership agreement between Shetland Amenity Trust and National Museums Scotland in 2008, detailed studies were undertaken on all of the artifacts with a view to making a full set of replicas. The project started with thorough studies and documentation at the museum in Edinburgh. Next step was the practical work: The wool was sorted, washed, carded or combed and spun. Several spinning, weaving, knitting, fulling and sewing samples were performed before the production of the clothes could start. All operations were carried out as close to the originals as possible. The success of the project is an effect of a close cooperation between participants having different competences, deep knowledge of craft, and experience from the reconstruction of historical and archaeological textiles.

In 1951 a body of a man was found during peat digging in a peat bog at Gunnister, Shetland Islands, Great Britain. The man had been wearing a shirt, breeches, coat and a jacket made of fulled wool fabrics. His stockings, gloves, 2 caps and a small purse were knitted from wool yarn. In the purse there were two Dutch and one Swedish coin of 1683, which date the costume to around 1700. Following a partnership agreement between Shetland Amenity Trust and National Museums Scotland in 2008, detailed studies were undertaken on all of the artifacts with a view to making a full set of replicas. The project started with thorough studies and documentation at the museum in Edinburgh. Next step was the practical work: The wool was sorted, washed, carded or combed and spun. Several spinning, weaving, knitting, fulling and sewing samples were performed before the production of the clothes could start. All operations were carried out as close to the originals as possible. The success of the project is an effect of a close cooperation between participants having different competences, deep knowledge of craft, and experience from the reconstruction of historical and archaeological textiles.

The regional costume from the Danish island Läsö contains medieveal clothing traditions.

Some wool fragmnents in twill from the Roman site of Mons Claudianus in Egypt, dated to the 2nd c.AD, have a ribbed texture acieved by weaving.

Om dopdräkter från 17- och 1800-talet