In this chapter, we explore the classification of donated fashion and textiles in a waste management process with methods and concepts inspired byactor-network theory (ANT). 

Presentationen gav exempel på hur hållbar utveckling integrerats i utbildning vid Högskolan i Borås, och särskilt utbildning inom företagsekonomi.

Reuse is a strategy to render fashion retail sustainable and an example is the take-back schemes established by international retailers. Managerial aspects are important in a reuse system, but management issues have seldom been studied. Accordingly, empirical investigations of the management of reuse systems are needed. Hence, the purpose of this study is to show the complexity in the management of fashion-retail based on reuse by identifying and explaining obstacles in the process. This is achieved by an analyze of ReTuna, a shopping mall based on reuse, from the perspective of institutional logics. ReTuna opened in 2015 and consists of approximately fourteen stores. The shops at ReTuna sell reused products, but this unconventional sourcing of goods aside, ReTuna aims to be a traditional mall. Most shops are staffed by the owner(s) and in some cases an employee. Garments and textiles that are sold origins from donations that are collected by the mall. The case illustrates the complexity, as it failed in establishing reuse-based fashion retail, despite its success in achieving enough donations and creating publicity. The analysis shows that the goal of re-circulating fashion is hindered by actors not being able to equally integrate the divergent sustainability dimensions in the mall owner’s goals. The obstacles are a result of the actors prioritizing the logics differently at the same time as not being able to fulfill the demands of the logics due to a lack of knowledge, experience and skills, and coordination.

In scholarly conversations, reuse is one of the common suggested strategies to render fashion retail sustainable. Previous research has stressed the complexity of fashion reuse and the importance of a well-organized system. The complexity stems from processes that involve many actors as well as products hard to evaluate. Consequently, it is challenging to organize reuse-based fashion retail, and studies are needed to further develop knowledge regarding how to manage such systems. Hence, the purpose of this paper is to highlight the complexity in the management of such an initiative, by identifying and explaining obstacles as well as implications. With institutional logics as a framework, three local logics (shopping mall, reuse, and work integration) are used to analyze the management of a reuse-based mall. Despite the mall’s success in getting sufficient donations and creating publicity, it has struggled to establish itself as viable reuse-based fashion retail. The findings illustrate the complexity created by the interplay of different logics and how the complexity influences both the daily and strategic management of the mall. Further, the outcome of this interplay depends largely on which rationality is enacted by involved actors. The study also extends literature on institutional logics, showing that differences in individual actors’ attention, knowledge, skills, coordination, and material conditions influence how logics are enacted and managed. We suggest that there are inherent managerial contradictions in the sustainable practices in fashion retail. Thus, in scholarly conversations, it is important to discuss what different divergent sustainability dimensions imply when seeking solutions for sustainable retail. In practice, there is a need to acknowledge and balance the presence of multiple logics, making it crucial to have competence in all logics. Also, managers of reuse-based fashion retail must consciously and continuously scrutinize their own strategies and actions to avoid an imbalance between the logics.

Although research regarding supply chain collaboration has been increasing, studies reviewing supply chain collaboration remains limited. This review paper categorises supply chain collaboration and identifies different themes in this research field. Articles were collected based on a designed keywords list and specific subject restrictions in citation databases. Text-mining technology and conceptual criteria were used to categorise and screen articles into different categories. Finally, cluster analysis was used to group articles and identify emerging themes. From the year 1999 to 2017, a total of 678 articles regarding supply chain collaboration were found. These were sorted into six categories: levels of collaboration, industries, supply chain stages, company scales, forms/methods of collaboration and typology of article, and into corresponding sub-categories. 380 articles employing modelling approach where collaboration forms the core of analysis were screened for hierarchical cluster analysis, resulting in four clusters: information sharing paradigm, joint decision-making paradigm, resource sharing paradigm and coordinating contract paradigm. Eleven themes were finally identified based on the four clusters. The number of articles in the field of supply chain collaboration shows an increasing trend by year. However, most of the collaborations discussed were still at a low level. It is expected to explore a higher level of collaborations and related themes in future research.

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to describe and analyse the management of a novel commercial fashion retail concept – a shopping mall based on reuse and a local circular fashion supply chain – with the aim of identifying potential strategic issues with the concept.

Design/methodology/approach

This is an explorative case study, based on observations and interviews with shop managers, employees and the mall management.

Findings

The reuse concept strongly influences the mall's strategy, and the sourcing process is a key factor. The local reuse-based fashion supply chain follows the typical reuse process, but this study shows that the business logic that underpins the commercial strategy is not in line with the reuse and social enterprise ethoses that the mall ostensibly follows.

Research limitations/implications

This study illustrates the difficulties inherent in organising a reuse-based mall due to the need to combine a commercial strategy, a local and circular fashion supply chain, and a social enterprise ethic.

Practical implications

The findings highlight the mall management's responsibility for the sourcing of goods, the need for a closer cooperation between mall management and tenants in a reuse-based mall, and the need for competence in terms of reuse, fashion, and retail in order for the concept to be developed further.

Originality/value

ReTuna represents a new fashion retail phenomenon – the reuse-based shopping mall – that has not been studied yet.

Keywords

Fashion retail, textile reuse, clothing reuse, mall management, fashion supply chain, recycling, sustainability, circular supply chain.

Article classification

Research paper

Resource sharing (RS) is an important method in inter-organizational supply chain collaboration (SCC). However, it is still an under-explored area in research of SCC compared to other subjects (e.g. coordinating contract and information sharing). The aim of this paper is to examine the feasibility of applying RS model in the manufacturing stage of garment supply chain and to determine the suitable type of garment for RS in production. Eight scenarios of RS were designed. Discrete-event simulation was used for running experiment of each scenario. The comparison of different scenarios shows that garment manufacturers could get great benefits by applying RS model.

The main purpose of this state-of-the-art paper is to make a synthesis analysis oncollaboration in supply chain by literature review of all relevant articles, conceptualizingcollaboration in supply chain and providing implications for future research. Based ondesigned material collection standard, up to year 2014, a total of 1250 papers are usedfor descriptive analysis and a total of 509 papers are carefully reviewed for furtherclassification, conceptualization and comparison analysis. Research in this field is in anincreasing trend in general but most of collaboration in supply chain is still in a low levelin research. Another interesting finding is that logistics seems to be the most promisingsupply chain stage for research about collaboration in supply chain.

Konsumtionen av kläder har ökat dramatiskt under senare år och klädberget bara växer. Denna utveckling har bland annat aktualiserat frågan om hur vi kan finna nya system för insamling av de kläder som människor inte längre vill ha. Föreliggande rapport beskriver framväxten av en försöksverksamhet om insamling av kläder - belägen i nära anslutning till en stor shoppingdestination. På insamlingsplatsen - döpt till Textilreturen – kan både hela och trasiga kläder tas emot i stor skala. Genom att beskriva de olika överväganden och beslut som lett fram till Textilreturens slutliga utformning ges kunskap och insikt i projektets komplexitet. Denna kunskap är värdefull för andra företag och organisationer som planerar liknande anläggningar. Rapporten belyser svårigheterna att utveckla lösningar som kan bidra till att förändra människors beteende avseende klädinsamling.