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Thornquist, Clemens
Alternative names
Publications (10 of 37) Show all publications
Thornquist, C. (2018). The Fashion Condition: redefining fashion from its everyday practices. Fashion Practice: the journal of design, creative process & the fashion industry, 10(3), 289-310
Open this publication in new window or tab >>The Fashion Condition: redefining fashion from its everyday practices
2018 (English)In: Fashion Practice: the journal of design, creative process & the fashion industry, ISSN 1756-9370, E-ISSN 1756-9389, Vol. 10, no 3, p. 289-310Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

This article challenges traditional ways of understanding fashion as a social phenomenon. By considering the everyday social practice of fashion where looking, wearing, choosing, discarding, consuming, and producing fashion have central roles in understanding fashion’s person–object relationships, this study advances an alternative ontological view of fashion as a volatile emotional condition and inconstant state of mind. This suggested shift in theoretical perspective is significant in understanding and stimulating change or maintaining stability in fashion phenomena and could have principal consequences for thinking and developing policy in relation to fashion as well as to more general issues in person–object conditioned design cultures.

Keywords
activities, condition, definition, fashion, practices
National Category
Humanities and the Arts
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15704 (URN)10.1080/17569370.2018.1507147 (DOI)2-s2.0-85055735808 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2019-01-22 Created: 2019-01-22 Last updated: 2019-01-25Bibliographically approved
Thornquist, C. (2018). The potential of dance: Reducing fashion consumption through movement therapy. Journal of Cleaner Production, 183, 824-830
Open this publication in new window or tab >>The potential of dance: Reducing fashion consumption through movement therapy
2018 (English)In: Journal of Cleaner Production, ISSN 0959-6526, E-ISSN 1879-1786, Vol. 183, p. 824-830Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Fashion is one of the elements contributing to human phenomena such as self-concept, social interaction, and cross-cultural communication. Despite the significance of this reality however the link between the consumption of fashion and its lack of sustainability in relation to natural resources is one of ongoing concern. To investigate how large-scale changes in consumption can be encouraged, this paper explores the theoretical potential of dance as a replacement for the emotive person-product relationship related to the fast rate of fashion consumption, an exchange that would not disable essential functions such as expressive self-concept, social interaction, and cross-cultural communication. By refocusing the means of self-expression from material products to gestures and movement, dance and dance/movement therapy can help individuals resist the impulsive and compulsive consumption promoted by the fashion industry. This study identifies a potential for dance and dance movement therapy to reduce an individual's dependence on material goods for self-expression. Further research is needed to develop and evaluate practical implementation of place, scale, and longevity. In addition, research methods need to be developed to evaluate the effectiveness of different dance methods. 

Keywords
Fashion, Consumption, Dance, Intervention
National Category
Social Sciences
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15703 (URN)10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.02.238 (DOI)000429763800072 ()2-s2.0-85043587268 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2019-01-22 Created: 2019-01-22 Last updated: 2019-01-25Bibliographically approved
Thornquist, C. (2017). Unemotional Design: An Alternative Approach to Sustainable Design. Design Issues, 33(4), 83-91
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Unemotional Design: An Alternative Approach to Sustainable Design
2017 (English)In: Design Issues, ISSN 0747-9360, E-ISSN 1531-4790, Vol. 33, no 4, p. 83-91Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Conspicuous consumption of products is problematic for the development of a sustainable relationship to cultural and natural resources. Drawing on an emotional design approach, this study explores emotional conditions involved in the buying phase of socially visible products used in a typically expressive consumption activity. Through an extreme character approach, impulsive and compulsive buying is explored to expose principal and generic emotional conditions in the drive for new design products. The study demonstrates a range of primary negative emotional conditions or emotional fluctuations related to anxiety, mood, and self-esteem in the buying of appearance-related products. In conclusion, to achieve a more sustainable consumer relationship with fashion-conditioned material goods, the study reveals a need for unemotional design to acquire emotional detachment, rather than design to acquire emotional attachment.

Keywords
Consumption, Design, Emotion, Sustainability
National Category
Social Sciences
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15702 (URN)10.1162/DESI_a_00463 (DOI)2-s2.0-85030631005 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2019-01-22 Created: 2019-01-22 Last updated: 2019-01-25Bibliographically approved
Thornquist, C. (2016). Physics and Metaphysics of Art. In: : . Paper presented at Vetenskapsrådets årliga symposium för Konstnärlig forskning, Växjö, November 29-30, 2016. Clemens Thornquist
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Physics and Metaphysics of Art
2016 (English)Conference paper, Oral presentation with published abstract (Refereed) [Artistic work]
Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Clemens Thornquist, 2016
Series
Clemens Thornquist
National Category
Arts
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-11832 (URN)
Conference
Vetenskapsrådets årliga symposium för Konstnärlig forskning, Växjö, November 29-30, 2016
Funder
Swedish Research Council
Available from: 2017-01-18 Created: 2017-01-18 Last updated: 2017-01-23Bibliographically approved
Thornquist, C. (2016). Plot structure over character and drama: a new aesthetics for art research. Journal of Visual Art Practice, 16(1), 1-19
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Plot structure over character and drama: a new aesthetics for art research
2016 (English)In: Journal of Visual Art Practice, ISSN 1470-2029, Vol. 16, no 1, p. 1-19Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Relativistic aesthetics have had a major impact on the development of art research- and practice-based doctoral programmes in the arts. This paper explores research capabilities of arts practice for more propositional knowledge based on more formalist aesthetic qualities in artefacts, as opposed to more relativistic and non-formalist aesthetic qualities. It does so by tracing notions of formal aesthetics from Kant’s natural sublime to Aristotle’s notion of mimesis and catharsis in a number of research works. The examples show how formal aesthetics qualities in the results of art practice are able to demonstrate universal knowledge such as foundational principles, through consideration of a more formal logic in the artwork itself. Together, these works suggest a more formal research agenda based on the capabilities of artistic practices where formal knowledge proposed is rather relative – an aim that has purposiveness but without having purpose, as in Kant’s natural sublime, rather than having a wider social or historic context. Here, non-formalist aesthetic quality of art practice points rather to the applied qualities of a work: that is, to the range of possible applications of the formal aesthetic qualities

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Clemens Thornquist, 2016
Keywords
aesthetics, art, formal, relational, research
National Category
Arts
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-11830 (URN)10.1080/14702029.2016.1206315 (DOI)2-s2.0-84990189229 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2017-01-18 Created: 2017-01-18 Last updated: 2018-02-16Bibliographically approved
Thornquist, C. (2016). What is it?: Material systems System of materials Material categories Categorical systems Volume 1 . Borås: Clemens Thornquist
Open this publication in new window or tab >>What is it?: Material systems System of materials Material categories Categorical systems Volume 1 
2016 (English)Book (Other academic) [Artistic work]
Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Borås: Clemens Thornquist, 2016
Series
Clemens Thornquist
National Category
Arts
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-11833 (URN)
Funder
Swedish Research Council
Available from: 2017-01-18 Created: 2017-01-18 Last updated: 2017-01-23Bibliographically approved
Thornquist, C. (2015). Get to Work: And Embarrass Yourself. Borås: Swedish School of Textiles
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Get to Work: And Embarrass Yourself
2015 (English)Book (Other academic) [Artistic work]
Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Borås: Swedish School of Textiles, 2015. p. 198
National Category
Arts
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-8576 (URN)978-91-87525-76-6 (ISBN)
Available from: 2016-01-15 Created: 2016-01-15 Last updated: 2018-06-14Bibliographically approved
Thornquist, C. (2015). Material Evidence: definition by a series of artefacts in arts research. Journal of Visual Art Practice, 14(2), 110-119
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Material Evidence: definition by a series of artefacts in arts research
2015 (English)In: Journal of Visual Art Practice, ISSN 1470-2029, E-ISSN 1758-9185, Vol. 14, no 2, p. 110-119Article in journal (Refereed) [Artistic work] Published
Abstract [en]

The possibility of the artefact in arts research to hold formal knowledge is still very much questioned. This paper explores the potential of not a single artefact but a series of artefacts to define and demonstrate formal knowledge in itself. Through a comparative analysis of a number of basic art research projects in e.g. painting, music, fashion design and photography, the paper explores how formal aesthetic principles may be not only defined through a series of artefacts but also equally argued for on the basis of the material evidence that the artefacts provide. The analysis of the examples shows how a series of artefacts can define and validate principle results of basic art research rather than narrate interpretative results of applied art research. The self-informed and self-referential character of the examples shows how formal aesthetic principles and its expressive potential can be validated in terms of fit rather than a justified belief in relation to the aim of the research. In conclusion, the result demonstrates significant implications for theoretical conceptualisation of foundational knowledge in art research based on a form of ostensive definition without significant use of text for theoretical reasons.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
London: , 2015
Keywords
art, research, artefacts, series, ostensive definition
National Category
Arts
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-8566 (URN)10.1080/14702029.2015.1041713 (DOI)2-s2.0-84954105496 (Scopus ID)
Funder
Swedish Research Council
Available from: 2016-01-15 Created: 2016-01-15 Last updated: 2018-11-30Bibliographically approved
Thornquist, C. (2015). Pattern: Science and Art. In: Linda Loppa (Ed.), Pattern: Science and Art. Paper presented at Iffti 2015. Clemens Thornquist
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Pattern: Science and Art
2015 (English)In: Pattern: Science and Art / [ed] Linda Loppa, Clemens Thornquist , 2015Conference paper, Published paper (Refereed) [Artistic work]
Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Clemens Thornquist, 2015
Series
Clemens Thornquist
National Category
Arts
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-8578 (URN)
Conference
Iffti 2015
Available from: 2016-01-15 Created: 2016-01-15 Last updated: 2018-04-28Bibliographically approved
Lindqvist, R. & Thornquist, C. (2014). Enhanced construction technology for ergonomic clothing: A new approximation of the body and system for garment construction.. Paper presented at Ambience 14, 7- 9 september, Tampere, Finland. Paper presented at Ambience 14, 7- 9 september, Tampere, Finland.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Enhanced construction technology for ergonomic clothing: A new approximation of the body and system for garment construction.
2014 (English)Conference paper, Published paper (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

This paper explores the ergonomic and functional possibilities of a recently developed new principle of construction technology for garments based on a new approximation of the human body in garment development. Although there are several different principles of pattern construction, the far majority are derived from the same approximation of the body based on horizontal and vertical measurements. Based on Lindqvist’s[1] model for enhance pattern technology, building on a number of key biomechanical point and balance lines instead of horizontal and vertical measurements of the body, this paper demonstrates the potential of the proposed technology in two garments for a specific function. The relevance of this new garment construction technology is significance because it presents a previously unknown model to construct garments with significantly increased ergonomics and agility as well as presenting a new theory of

Keywords
qualitative approximation, pattern cutting, draping,, ergonomics,, design model, design
National Category
Other Engineering and Technologies not elsewhere specified
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-7272 (URN)2320/14457 (Local ID)978-952-15-3269-6 (ISBN)2320/14457 (Archive number)2320/14457 (OAI)
Conference
Ambience 14, 7- 9 september, Tampere, Finland
Available from: 2015-12-22 Created: 2015-12-22
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