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Lindqvist, Rickard
Publications (10 of 19) Show all publications
Larsson, J. L., Pal, R., Lindqvist, R., Johansson, M. & Hernandez, N. (2016). From Roll to Bag: D5.2 Final Product Construction Report.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>From Roll to Bag: D5.2 Final Product Construction Report
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2016 (English)Report (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

This is the final product construction report for the From Roll to Bag project. The purpose of this report is to present the implementation of the new pattern technology to selected products and to present the modularity for consumer selection. For fulfilling the tasks (5.1 and 5.2) two garments where chosen, one jacket and one shirt, and customization options regarding fit, model, colour and function were developed for each of them. This includes implementation of novel pattern technology to products, graphics, a product architecture with customisation options and initial production tests to verify perfect fit in production and later in use. The more challenging part was to guarantee manufacturability as the patterns require automated manufacturing equipment due to their detailed construction and the pattern matching. Such equipment includes a cutter with a scanner that identifies the outline of the printed pattern and cuts accoringly. If garments with less detailed graphics are considered for production, pre-dyed fabrics can be used and that requires less investments in manufacturing equipment. Such set up would miss one point of the project but in the tradeoff between investment cost and product price point it may be a viable solution. The garments and customization modules are also fit for production but in order to achieve a detailed production evaluation with exact production times and material consumption a long run of products is needed. Considerations about customer’s experiences in this type value chains are also discussed.

Publisher
p. 47
National Category
Production Engineering, Human Work Science and Ergonomics Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General); Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-10485 (URN)
External cooperation:
Projects
From Roll to Bag
Funder
EU, Horizon 2020, 644114
Available from: 2016-08-15 Created: 2016-08-15 Last updated: 2018-08-20Bibliographically approved
Lindqvist, R. (2015). Kinetic garment construction: remarks on the foundations of pattern cutting. (Doctoral dissertation). Borås: Högskolan i Borås
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Kinetic garment construction: remarks on the foundations of pattern cutting
2015 (English)Doctoral thesis, monograph (Other academic) [Artistic work]
Abstract [en]

Fashion designers are presented with a range of different methods for pattern cutting, and the interest in this field has grown rapidly over the past few years. This growth is both due to the publication of a number of works dealing with the subject in different ways and the fact that a growing number of designers emphasise cutting in their creative practices.

Though a range of methods and concepts for pattern cutting are presented, the main body of these methods, both traditional and contemporary, is predominately based on a theoretical approximation of the body that is derived from horizontal and vertical measurements of the body in an upright position: the tailoring matrix. As a consequence, there is a lack of interactive and dynamic qualities in methods connected to this paradigm of garment construction, from both expressional and functional perspectives.

This work proposes and explores an alternative paradigm for pattern cutting that includes a new theoretical approximation of the body as well as a more kinetic method for garment construction that, unlike the prevalent theory and its related methods, takes as its point of origin the interaction between the anisotropic fabric and the biomechanical structure of the body. As such, the research conducted here is basic research, aiming to identify fundamental principles for garment construction. Based on some key principles found in the works of Geneviève Sevin-Doering and in pre-tailoring methods for constructing garments, the proposed theory for – and method of – garment construction was developed through concrete experiments by cutting and draping fabrics on live models.

Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the result is a kinetic construction theory of the body that is comprised of balance directions and key biomechanical points, along with an alternative draping method for dressmaking. This methodology challenges the fundamental relationship between dress, garment construction, and the body, working from the body outward, as opposed to the methods that are based on the prevalent paradigm of the tailoring matrix, which work from the outside toward the body. This alternative theory for understanding the body and the proposed method of working allows for diverse expressions and enhanced functional possibilities in dress.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Borås: Högskolan i Borås, 2015. p. 347
Series
University of Borås studies in artistic research ; 13
National Category
Other Engineering and Technologies not elsewhere specified
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-25 (URN)978-91-87525-41-4 (ISBN)978-91-87525-42-1 (ISBN)
Public defence
2015-04-29, Vestindien B, The Swedish School of Textiles, Skaraborgsvägen 3A, Borås, 10:00 (English)
Opponent
Available from: 2015-05-19 Created: 2015-03-06 Last updated: 2016-03-30Bibliographically approved
Lindqvist, R. & Thornquist, C. (2014). Enhanced construction technology for ergonomic clothing: A new approximation of the body and system for garment construction.. Paper presented at Ambience 14, 7- 9 september, Tampere, Finland. Paper presented at Ambience 14, 7- 9 september, Tampere, Finland.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Enhanced construction technology for ergonomic clothing: A new approximation of the body and system for garment construction.
2014 (English)Conference paper, Published paper (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

This paper explores the ergonomic and functional possibilities of a recently developed new principle of construction technology for garments based on a new approximation of the human body in garment development. Although there are several different principles of pattern construction, the far majority are derived from the same approximation of the body based on horizontal and vertical measurements. Based on Lindqvist’s[1] model for enhance pattern technology, building on a number of key biomechanical point and balance lines instead of horizontal and vertical measurements of the body, this paper demonstrates the potential of the proposed technology in two garments for a specific function. The relevance of this new garment construction technology is significance because it presents a previously unknown model to construct garments with significantly increased ergonomics and agility as well as presenting a new theory of

Keywords
qualitative approximation, pattern cutting, draping,, ergonomics,, design model, design
National Category
Other Engineering and Technologies not elsewhere specified
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-7272 (URN)2320/14457 (Local ID)978-952-15-3269-6 (ISBN)2320/14457 (Archive number)2320/14457 (OAI)
Conference
Ambience 14, 7- 9 september, Tampere, Finland
Available from: 2015-12-22 Created: 2015-12-22
Lindqvist, R. (2014). The transformative cuts: new foundations in pattern cutting and approximations of the body. Paper presented at Shapeshifting A Conference on the Transformative Paradigms in Fashion and Textile Design, Auckland, New Zealand April 14–16, 2014. Paper presented at Shapeshifting A Conference on the Transformative Paradigms in Fashion and Textile Design, Auckland, New Zealand April 14–16, 2014.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>The transformative cuts: new foundations in pattern cutting and approximations of the body
2014 (English)Conference paper, Published paper (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

Fashion designers are presented with a range of different principles for pattern cutting, and interest in this area has grown rapidly over the past few years, due to both the publication of a number of works dealing with the subject in different ways, and the fact that a growing number of designers emphasise experimental pattern cutting in their practices. Although a range of principles and concepts for pattern cutting are presented from different per¬spectives, the main body of these systems, traditional as well as contemporary, are predominantly based on a quantified approximation of the body. As a consequence, the connection between existing theories for pattern construction and the dynamic expression and biomechanical func¬tion of the body are problematic. This work explores and proposes an alternative theory for pattern cutting, which unlike exist¬ing models takes as its point of origin the actual, variable body. As such, the research presented here is basic research. Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the proposed model for cutting garments is based on a qualitative approximation of the body, visualised through balance lines and key biomechanical points. Based on some key principles found in works by Geneviève Sevin-Doering, the proposed model for cutting is developed through concrete experiments by cut¬ting and draping fabrics on live models. The proposed theory is an alternative principle for dressmaking, which challenges the fundamental relationship between dress, pattern making, and the body, opening up for new expressions in dress and functional possibilities for wearing.

Keywords
Qualitative approximation, pattern cutting, draping, fashion design, logic, design model, design
National Category
Other Humanities not elsewhere specified
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-7271 (URN)2320/14454 (Local ID)978-1-927184-22-6 (ISBN)2320/14454 (Archive number)2320/14454 (OAI)
Conference
Shapeshifting A Conference on the Transformative Paradigms in Fashion and Textile Design, Auckland, New Zealand April 14–16, 2014
Available from: 2015-12-22 Created: 2015-12-22
Lindqvist, R. (2013). On the logic of pattern cutting: foundational cuts and approximations of the body. In: : . Paper presented at Vetenskapsrådets symposium för konstnärlig forskning. Borås, 28 november 2014. Vetenskapsrådet
Open this publication in new window or tab >>On the logic of pattern cutting: foundational cuts and approximations of the body
2013 (English)Conference paper, Published paper (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

Fashion designers are presented with a range of principles for pattern cutting. However, the main body of these systems are predominately based on a quantified approximation of the body. As a consequence, the connection of existing models for pattern construction to the dynamic expression of the body and its biomechanical functions is problematic. This work explores and proposes an alternative model for pattern cutting that, unlike the existing models, takes as its point of origin the actual, variable body. Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the proposed model for cutting garments is based on a qualitative approximation of the body, visualised through balance lines and key biomechanical points. The model is developed through concrete experiments by cutting and draping fabrics on live models. Hence, the research conducted here is basic research, aiming to identify fundamental principles in order to create alternative expression and functions.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Vetenskapsrådet, 2013
Keywords
pattern cutting, design model, design
National Category
Materials Engineering
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-7273 (URN)2320/14458 (Local ID)2320/14458 (Archive number)2320/14458 (OAI)
Conference
Vetenskapsrådets symposium för konstnärlig forskning. Borås, 28 november 2014
Available from: 2015-12-22 Created: 2015-12-22 Last updated: 2017-10-02Bibliographically approved
Lindqvist, R. (2013). On the logic of pattern cutting: foundational cuts and approximations of the body. (Licentiate dissertation). University of Borås
Open this publication in new window or tab >>On the logic of pattern cutting: foundational cuts and approximations of the body
2013 (English)Licentiate thesis, monograph (Other academic) [Artistic work]
Abstract [en]

Fashion designers are presented with a range of different principles for pattern cutting and the interest in this area has grown rapidly over the past few years, both due to the publication of a number of works dealing with the subject in different ways and the fact that a growing number of designers emphasise cutting in their practices. Although a range of principles and concepts for pattern cutting are presented from different perspectives, the main body of these systems, traditional as well as contemporary, are predominately based on a quantified approximation of the body. As a consequence, the connection of existing models for pattern construction to the dynamic expression of the body or the biomechanic function of the body is problematic. This work explores and proposes an alternative model for pattern cutting that, unlike the existing models, takes as its point of origin the actual, variable body. As such, the research conducted here is basic research, aiming to identify fundamental principles in order to create alternative expression and functions. Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the proposed model for cutting garments is based on a qualitative approximation of the body, visualised through balance lines and key biomechanic points. Based on some key principles found in the works by Geneviève Sevin-Doering, the proposed model for cutting is developed through concrete experiments by cutting and draping fabrics on live models. The result of a proposed model is an alternative principle for dressmaking that challenges the fundamental relationship between dress, pattern making and the body, opening up for new expressions in dress and functional possibilities for wearing.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
University of Borås, 2013
Series
University of Borås studies in artistic research ; 3
Keywords
Textiles and fashion
National Category
Other Humanities not elsewhere specified
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-3647 (URN)2320/11957 (Local ID)978-91-85659-86-9 (ISBN)2320/11957 (Archive number)2320/11957 (OAI)
Available from: 2015-12-04 Created: 2015-12-04 Last updated: 2016-07-14Bibliographically approved
Larsen, U. M., Landahl, K., Malmgren de Oliveira, S. & Lindqvist, R. (2012). Dressed Integrity.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Dressed Integrity
2012 (English)Other (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

Dressed–Integrity presents new logics of expression and functionality in dress and its relation to the body. As an aesthetic research program in dress it is about the fundamental relationship between form and material, between technique and expression. Through the development in art the program aims to challenge the institutions of craft through the appropriation of technology, and through the development science and epistemology the program aims to challenge the institutions of technology through the appropriation of art. The research program is therefore not an empirical research program that aims to introduce new theories about fashion. It is about developing foundational concepts and theoretical propositions of fashion design in and for itself as an academic field with an obvious integrity. As such the exhibition present a few examples of new techniques, methods, models and definitions of dress and its relation to the body, conducted by handful of PhD candidates within the research program in fashion design at the Swedish School of Textiles, Borås, Sweden.

Keywords
fashion design, performance, knitwear, pattern cutting, artistic research, design
National Category
Other Humanities not elsewhere specified
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-5365 (URN)2320/11827 (Local ID)2320/11827 (Archive number)2320/11827 (OAI)
Available from: 2015-12-17 Created: 2015-12-17
Lindqvist, R. (2012). Instruction techniques for an exploratory fashion design. Paper presented at 2012 Hawaii International Conference on Education, USA, 5-8 Jan. Paper presented at 2012 Hawaii International Conference on Education, USA, 5-8 Jan.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Instruction techniques for an exploratory fashion design
2012 (English)Conference paper, Poster (with or without abstract) (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

"-We are like dwarfs on the shoulders of giants”, John of Salisbury’s famous quote, later made even more famous by Newton, is often used to explain how researchers, artists, or whoever, uses previous knowledge to build upon when exploring the new. Those impressive giants of fashion, Poiret, Vionnet, Balenciaga, Yamamoto, just to mention a few, how do we get up on their shoulders and how can we be able to see what they saw and possibly even further? This paper will highlight that educating designers only differs slightly from training athletes. When teaching new techniques the area of training is broken down to graspable components and focus is on one muscle or move at a time. One first needs to get every individual step right, then our performance might improve. Copying is needed for developing creativity, repeating the past is one of the corner stones within fashion design. If I would need to put forward one formula for making a successful fashion collection I would say that the collection should be perceived as totally new and groundbreaking while at the same time being familiar and recognizable to the viewer. To achieving this one will need to bring in aspects already familiar to the audience but we need to bring copying further than that. I will show that imitation is not only a fundamental activity when learning practical skills but also has an essential part in teaching creativity.

Keywords
education, art, fashion design, creativity, design
National Category
Engineering and Technology
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-6911 (URN)2320/11823 (Local ID)2320/11823 (Archive number)2320/11823 (OAI)
Conference
2012 Hawaii International Conference on Education, USA, 5-8 Jan
Available from: 2015-12-22 Created: 2015-12-22
Lindqvist, R. (2012). Mörk kostym. Röhsska museet
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Mörk kostym
2012 (English)Other (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

If the expression of the body is the focal point, and how this expression is transformed by dressing it in fabric, a more reflective study of the body from a dressmakers perspective might be meaningful for the development of new design methods. “Mörk kostym 2012” aspires to both challenge and preserve the art of tailoring. Challenge tailoring methodologically in construction, hence propose an alternative view upon the body, meanwhile preserve it by utilizing traditional methods of making. The jacket and the trousers are two examples, using the “La coupe en un seul morceau” method developed by French costumier Genevieve Sevin-Doering, here a piece of fabric is sculptured into a garment on a living body, from which a new logic is extracted proposing an alternative way of approaching the body while cutting garments. The theory is visualised in a number of gravity and balance lines on the body to initiate the work of cutting, draping and fitting garments from and certain points proposing where on the body to address the foundational cuts. These garments are cut from one single piece of fabric however the number of pieces composing the garments are of less significance. The one-piece principal can be compared to a beautiful proof in mathematics, or the simplest equation explaining a series of experiments, the proof could be written differently, in any number of pieces, but the simplicity expresses the theory more clear.

Place, publisher, year, pages
Röhsska museet, 2012
Keywords
fashion design, pattern cutting, design
National Category
Other Humanities not elsewhere specified
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-5364 (URN)2320/11826 (Local ID)2320/11826 (Archive number)2320/11826 (OAI)
Note
Tack till Bauer skräddare i Stockholm för gott sammarbete.Available from: 2015-12-17 Created: 2015-12-17
Lindqvist, R. & Malmgren de Oliveira, S. (2012). Vanishing realities.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Vanishing realities
2012 (English)Other (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

With a belief that the core of fashion is to recreate the past in perfect congruence with the present together with a photo by Stefanie to set the mood we turned to Marcel Proust for guidance. In his novel In search of lost times Proust introduces the concept of involuntary memories. The taste of the Madeleine cookie evokes Swann’s involuntary memory of things that have vanished over times. How can we through fashion evoke involuntary memories? If the garments are vanishing into transparency will that evoke our involuntary memories of bodies and dresses. If only half a lapel is appearing will that evoke our involuntary memories of coats we used to wear? Isn’t a good piece of fashion one that reminds us of the past but at the same time gives us a feeling of being totally here now? Exploring the themes of form and memory through vanishing details and fabrics. This is carried out through the cuts in detail and silhouette and through the use of prints and ausbrenner treatment of the fabrics.

Keywords
fashion, fashion design, pattern cutting, design
National Category
Other Social Sciences not elsewhere specified Other Humanities not elsewhere specified
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-5363 (URN)2320/11824 (Local ID)2320/11824 (Archive number)2320/11824 (OAI)
Note

Sponsorship:

Mango

Available from: 2015-12-17 Created: 2015-12-17
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