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Berglin, Lena
Alternative names
Publications (10 of 44) Show all publications
Lindström, K., van der Holst, F., Berglin, L., Persson, A. & Kadi, N. (2023). Investigation Of Abrasive Pre-Treatment To Mitigate Length Loss During Mechanical Textile Recycling. In: : . Paper presented at AUTEX 2023 Conference, Melbourne, Australia, 26-28 June, 2023..
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Investigation Of Abrasive Pre-Treatment To Mitigate Length Loss During Mechanical Textile Recycling
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2023 (English)Conference paper, Oral presentation with published abstract (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

The environmental burden of the textile industry can be decreased with an increased use of mechanically recycled fibers. However, it is well known that the recycling process is harsh and shortens the fibers substantially. Still, little has been investigated about the influencing factors of the fiber length loss. 

Previous research has shown that the parts of a garment that is more worn, lose less fiber length in the mechanical recycling process.1 One explanation could be that a loss of fibers during wearing create a more open structure of the textile. By removing fibers from the yarns in a textile, the yarn structure is partly broken down, and the yarn linear density is decreased. The strength of spun staple fiber yarns is dependent on the friction and contact surfaces between fibers. In addition, fiber migration, the variation of radial position of a fiber in the yarn, causes the fibers to lock between different helical layers and thus creates a self-locking mechanism giving strength to the yarn.2 Removal of any fiber in such a yarn affect all fibers in contact with that fiber. This in turn makes both the textile and yarns weaker and consequently more easily disentangles in a mechanical recycling process – keeping more of the fiber length. 

The work at hand investigated this theory by subjecting woven cotton textiles with abrasion treatment prior to mechanical recycling. We compared two different methods of abrasion with unabraded textile. The two pre-treatment abrasion methods used were rubbing with sandpaper and raising with steel pins. By measuring the fiber length post mechanical recycling, we could estimate the efficiency of the recycling process in respect to preservation of the fiber. 

Results showed that only the raising process had a positive impact in mitigating fiber length loss through the recycling process. During the rubbing with sandpaper, the fabric was pressed and thus became denser. On the contrary, the raising process pulled out the fibers and created a fuzzy surface. As the removal of any fiber affect all fibers in direct contact, even fibers in the center of the yarn are affected when surface fibers are pulled out or weakened. The raising process extracted fibers which opened up the fabric and affected the yarn structure. Hence, the yarns were more easily disentangled in the recycling process. The result gives great insight into the mechanisms of mechanical recycling and can be used for future development of the same. 

Keywords
Mechanical textile recycling, abrasion pre-treatment, fiber length loss, recycling efficiency
National Category
Textile, Rubber and Polymeric Materials
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-30392 (URN)
Conference
AUTEX 2023 Conference, Melbourne, Australia, 26-28 June, 2023.
Available from: 2023-08-31 Created: 2023-08-31 Last updated: 2023-08-31Bibliographically approved
Hernández, N., Mattila, H. & Berglin, L. (2019). Can Virtually Trying on Apparel Help in Selecting the Correct Size?. Clothing & Textiles Research Journal
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Can Virtually Trying on Apparel Help in Selecting the Correct Size?
2019 (English)In: Clothing & Textiles Research Journal, ISSN 0887-302XArticle in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Close to 30% of garments bought online are returned, often due to issues of fit. These issues often relate to size selection, which is challenging without physically trying on a garment. Alternative methods need to be explored to select the best size in lieu of physically trying apparel on. To address this issue, we compare the size selections based on primary measurements and size charts, virtual garments, and real garments. A cross-sectional quantitative survey was carried out in an experimental setting. The participants (36, predominantly White females, aged 21–56) made size selections and evaluations based on virtual and real blouses and trousers. Selecting the size based on virtual garments is more accurate than size selection based on primary measurements and size charts, scoring 57% and 42%, respectively. Further research should be used to improve the virtual fitting room, with benefits such as fewer returns and more satisfied customers.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Sage Publications, 2019
Keywords
garment, apparel, fit, evaluation, virtual, simulation, size selection
National Category
Economics and Business
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15009 (URN)10.1177/0887302X19856117 (DOI)000482951700003 ()2-s2.0-85067882227 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2018-08-21 Created: 2018-08-21 Last updated: 2024-02-01Bibliographically approved
Soroudi, A., Hernández, N., Berglin, L. & Nierstrasz, V. (2019). Electrode placement in electrocardiography smart garments: A review. Journal of Electrocardiology, 57, 27-30
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Electrode placement in electrocardiography smart garments: A review
2019 (English)In: Journal of Electrocardiology, ISSN 0022-0736, E-ISSN 1532-8430, Vol. 57, p. 27-30Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Wearable Electrocardiography (ECG) sensing textiles have been widely used due to their high flexibility, comfort, reusability and the possibility to be used for home-based and real-time measurements. Textile electrodes are dry and non-adhesive, therefor unlike conventional gel electrodes, they don't cause skin irritation and are more user-friendly especially for long-term and continuous monitoring outside the hospital. However, the challenge with textile electrodes is that the quality and reliability of recorded ECG signals by smart garments are more sensitive to different factors such as electrode placement, skin humidity, user activities and contact pressure. This review will particularly focus on the research findings regarding the influence of electrode placement on the quality of biosignal sensing, and will introduce the methods used by researchers to measure the optimal positions of the electrodes in wearable ECG garments. The review will help the designers to take into account different parameters, which affect the data quality, reliability and comfort, when selecting the electrode placement in a wearable ECG garment.

Keywords
Electrode placement, electrocardiography, ECG, wearable electronics, smart garments
National Category
Engineering and Technology
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-21721 (URN)10.1016/j.jelectrocard.2019.08.015 (DOI)000503909100007 ()2-s2.0-85071359617 (Scopus ID)
Projects
WearItMed
Funder
Swedish Foundation for Strategic Research
Available from: 2019-09-13 Created: 2019-09-13 Last updated: 2020-01-29Bibliographically approved
Hernández, N. (2018). A Systematic Model for Improving Theoretical Garment Fit. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 22(4), 527-539
Open this publication in new window or tab >>A Systematic Model for Improving Theoretical Garment Fit
2018 (English)In: Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, ISSN 1361-2026, Vol. 22, no 4, p. 527-539Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to use a systematic model for detecting misfit between the garment and the target group.

Design/methodology/approach

Using an empirical–analytical methodology, the systematic model was tested. The input data were run through the model to generate the output data, which were analysed, including basic statistics. The purpose of the analysis was to detect misfit and improve the garment measurement chart. This procedure was repeated until a clear result was reached.

Findings

The result of this study is an optimised garment measurement chart, which considers the garment’s ease, different sizes/proportions in relation to a target group. The results show that it is possible to use a systematic model to define the shortcomings of a garment´s range of sizes and proportions.

Research limitations/implications

Further studies are needed to verify the results of the theoretical garment fit and their values in relation to real garment fit.

Practical implications

If the systematic model is implemented to improve the theoretical garment fit, this may have effects on the available garment sizes and its proportions, resulting in increased theoretical garment fit for the target group.

Originality/value

The paper presents a systematic model for detecting and eliminating theoretical fitting; the model includes both garment ease allowance and defined points of misfit.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Emerald Group Publishing Limited, 2018
National Category
Economics and Business
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15008 (URN)10.1108/JFMM-10-2017-0112 (DOI)000443158800005 ()2-s2.0-85049591821 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2018-08-21 Created: 2018-08-21 Last updated: 2024-02-01Bibliographically approved
Biswas, T., Infirri, R. S., Hagman, S. & Berglin, L. (2018). An assistive sleeping bag for children with autism spectrum disorder. Fashion and Textiles, 5(1), Article ID 18.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>An assistive sleeping bag for children with autism spectrum disorder
2018 (English)In: Fashion and Textiles, ISSN 2198-0802, Vol. 5, no 1, article id 18Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Children suffering from autism spectrum disorder are often reported to encounter sleeping disorder several causes such as hypersensitivity as a result of irregular brain and muscle functions. Disturbance in sleep affects not only their health but also daytime activities including the risk of other cognitive and behavioral impairments. Such hindrance in sleep has been demonstrated to treat therapeutically by measures like the application of deep pressure touch and full body vibration which can be beneficially integrated into the sleeping environment such as on the textile-based platform around the bed. With such a vision, this pilot design project aimed to develop a smart textile based sleeping bag incorporated with sensors to detect awakening stage of the child and thereby actuating stimuli for assuaging the child to fall asleep. To serve the purpose, a micro-controllable body movement detection sensor, based on conductive yarns connected to a vibrating motor was prosperously embedded at the interior of the sleeping bag along with weighted slots to exert deep touch and soothing sensation in the form of wearable technology.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Springer, 2018
Keywords
Autism spectrum disorder, Sleeping disorder, Sensor, Actuator, Smart textiles, Sleeping bag, Wearable technology
National Category
Textile, Rubber and Polymeric Materials
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-14757 (URN)10.1186/s40691-018-0133-5 (DOI)000438552900001 ()2-s2.0-85049670720 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2018-07-16 Created: 2018-07-16 Last updated: 2018-07-30Bibliographically approved
Berlin, L. (2015). Blankout. Luciano Benetton Collection
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Blankout
2015 (English)Other (Other academic) [Artistic work]
Abstract [en]

Power is unequally shared in the world, one in four people live without electricity. Art and art production is therefore not only a question of choice but a question of power. 

Place, publisher, year, pages
Luciano Benetton Collection, 2015
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-8631 (URN)
Available from: 2016-01-15 Created: 2016-01-15 Last updated: 2016-03-04Bibliographically approved
Berglin, L. (2015). Norm vs Fluidity. Design Xport Hmaburg
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Norm vs Fluidity
2015 (English)Other (Other academic) [Artistic work]
Abstract [en]

The piece illustrates how predefined design objects (girls dancing, boys playing football) maintain gender norms compared to a fluid design (a bunch of pearls) that opens up for a variety of interpretation regardless gender, ethnicities etc.

Norm vs Fluidity has been exhibited at the exhibitions “The Great and Small” HongKong 2014, “Blue+Pink>>>Rethink” at designxport Hamburg and designtransfer Berlin 2015. iGDN – International Gender Design Network, http://genderdesign.org/ 

Place, publisher, year, pages
Design Xport Hmaburg: , 2015
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-8632 (URN)
Available from: 2016-01-15 Created: 2016-01-15 Last updated: 2016-03-04Bibliographically approved
Gunnarsson, E., Karlsteen, M., Berglin, L. & Stray, J. (2014). A novel technique for direct measurements of contact resistance between interlaced conductive yarns in a plain weave. Textile research journal, 85(5), 499-511
Open this publication in new window or tab >>A novel technique for direct measurements of contact resistance between interlaced conductive yarns in a plain weave
2014 (English)In: Textile research journal, ISSN 0040-5175, E-ISSN 1746-7748, Vol. 85, no 5, p. 499-511Article in journal (Refereed) Published
National Category
Textile, Rubber and Polymeric Materials
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General); Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-30618 (URN)10.1177/0040517514532158 (DOI)
Funder
Knowledge Foundation, 2009/0254
Available from: 2023-10-16 Created: 2023-10-16 Last updated: 2024-02-21Bibliographically approved
Hernández, N., Mattila, H. & Berglin, L. (2014). Garment fit by numbers: Statistical identification of a garment's misfit. In: : . Paper presented at Ambience14, 7-9 September, Tampere, Finland. Tampere University of Technology
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Garment fit by numbers: Statistical identification of a garment's misfit
2014 (English)Conference paper, Published paper (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

A challenge for manufacturers of garments is to decide which sizes to make available for a potential target group. Mismatches between the garment’s sizes/proportions and a target group will decrease its fit and increase loss of sales. The purpose of this study is to develop a systematic model to identify and optimize the distribution of a garment’s sizes and proportions in order to provide a target group appropriate fit. This study is based on sample-garment measurements, experienced-based values and data containing body measurements of 2208 individuals. Statistical data from the case were analysed to find a model to detect mismatches between standard garments and a target group. The results show that it is possible to use a systematic model to define the shortcomings of a garment´s range of sizes and proportions. If implemented, this could have effects on the available garment sizes and its proportions, resulting an increased garment fit for a target group.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Tampere University of Technology, 2014
Keywords
garment fit, standard sizes, evaluation of fit, anthropometric, systematic model
National Category
Social Sciences Interdisciplinary
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-7300 (URN)2320/14601 (Local ID)978-952-15-3269-6 (ISBN)2320/14601 (Archive number)2320/14601 (OAI)
Conference
Ambience14, 7-9 September, Tampere, Finland
Available from: 2015-12-22 Created: 2015-12-22 Last updated: 2018-01-10Bibliographically approved
Baghaei, B., Skrifvars, M. & Berglin, L. (2014). Hybrid natural fibre reinforcements and prepregs for thermoplastic composites with improved performance and properties. Paper presented at Aachen Dresden International Textile Conference, Dresden, Germany, 27-28 november, 2014. Paper presented at Aachen Dresden International Textile Conference, Dresden, Germany, 27-28 november, 2014.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Hybrid natural fibre reinforcements and prepregs for thermoplastic composites with improved performance and properties
2014 (English)Conference paper, Poster (with or without abstract) (Other academic)
Keywords
Thermoplastic composite, Cellulose Fiber, Resursåtervinning
National Category
Materials Chemistry Paper, Pulp and Fiber Technology
Research subject
Resource Recovery
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-7263 (URN)2320/14416 (Local ID)2320/14416 (Archive number)2320/14416 (OAI)
Conference
Aachen Dresden International Textile Conference, Dresden, Germany, 27-28 november, 2014
Available from: 2015-12-22 Created: 2015-12-22
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