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Pal, Rudrajeet, DocentORCID iD iconorcid.org/0000-0003-2015-6275
Publications (10 of 73) Show all publications
Agrawal, T. K. & Pal, R. (2019). Traceability in Textile and Clothing Supply Chains: Classifying Implementation Factors and Information Sets via Delphi Study. Sustainability, 11(06), Article ID 1698.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Traceability in Textile and Clothing Supply Chains: Classifying Implementation Factors and Information Sets via Delphi Study
2019 (English)In: Sustainability, ISSN 2071-1050, E-ISSN 2071-1050, Vol. 11, no 06, article id 1698Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Keywords
traceability, Delphi study, supply chain, textile and clothing
National Category
Economics and Business
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15892 (URN)10.3390/su11061698 (DOI)2-s2.0-85063500847 (Scopus ID)
Projects
SMDTex (Sustainable Management and Design for Textiles)
Available from: 2019-03-22 Created: 2019-03-22 Last updated: 2019-05-21Bibliographically approved
Paras, M. K., Wang, L., Chen, Y., Curteza, A., Pal, R. & Ekwall, D. (2018). A Sustainable Application Based on Grouping Genetic Algorithm for Modularized Redesign Model in Apparel Reverse Supply Chain. Sustainability, 10(9), Article ID 3013.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>A Sustainable Application Based on Grouping Genetic Algorithm for Modularized Redesign Model in Apparel Reverse Supply Chain
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2018 (English)In: Sustainability, ISSN 2071-1050, E-ISSN 2071-1050, Vol. 10, no 9, article id 3013Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

The scarcity of natural resources and the problem of pollution have initiated the need for extending the life and use of existing products. The concept of the reverse supply chain provides an opportunity to recover value from discarded products. The potential for recovery and the improvement of value in the reverse supply chain of apparel has been barely studied. In this research, a novel modularized redesign model is developed and applied to the garment redesign process. The concept of modularization is used to extract parts from the end-of-use or end-of-life of products. The extracted parts are reassembled or reconstructed with the help of a proposed group genetic algorithm by using domain and industry-specific knowledge. Design fitness is calculated to achieve the optimal redesign. Subsequently, the practical relevance of the model is investigated with the help of an industrial case in Sweden. The case study finding reveals that the proposed method and model to calculate the design fitness could simplify the redesign process. The design fitness calculation is illustrated with the example of a polo t-shirt. The redesigned system-based modularization is in accordance with the practical situations because of its flexibility and viability to formulate redesign decisions. The grouping genetic algorithm could enable fast redesign decisions for designers.

Keywords
reuse design, upcycling, modularization, garment industry, sustainability
National Category
Business Administration
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15090 (URN)10.3390/su10093013 (DOI)000446770200056 ()2-s2.0-85052309286 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2018-09-11 Created: 2018-09-11 Last updated: 2018-11-26Bibliographically approved
Paras, M. K., Ekwall, D., Pal, R., Curteza, A., Chen, Y. & Wang, L. (2018). An Exploratory Study of Swedish Charities to Develop a Model for the Reuse-Based Clothing Value Chain. Sustainability, 10(4), Article ID 1176.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>An Exploratory Study of Swedish Charities to Develop a Model for the Reuse-Based Clothing Value Chain
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2018 (English)In: Sustainability, ISSN 2071-1050, E-ISSN 2071-1050, Vol. 10, no 4, article id 1176Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

The present paper aims to explore the current clothes reuse business in order to develop a charity-driven model for the reuse-based clothing value chain. An exploratory study was carried out in Sweden to understand the business flow of clothes reuse. This study builds on the insights gained from the multiple charities involved in the reuse-based clothing value chain. Semi-structured interviews along with direct and participatory observation were used for data collection. In the current study of Swedish charities, the founders and senior managers of the organizations were interviewed. This paper provides several insights in the form of propositions and a model related to different drivers of the reuse-based clothing value chain. In this model, business factors (system, legislation, and awareness), product factors (design, quality, and price), and consumer attitude as donor/buyer are found to be key drivers. Product design, quality, and price depend upon clothes brand, construction, and material, which are collectively important for the sale of used products. In the future, researchers are encouraged to test the present set of propositions and the proposed model across different cultural settings. The model can serve as a framework for practitioners and will be helpful for designing business strategies based on the different factors identified in this study.

Keywords
reverse value chain, apparel supply chain, clothes reuse, closed loop, charity driven
National Category
Business Administration
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15087 (URN)10.3390/su10041176 (DOI)000435188000280 ()2-s2.0-85045460468 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2018-09-11 Created: 2018-09-11 Last updated: 2018-09-11Bibliographically approved
Agrawal, T. K. & Pal, R. (2018). Classification of traceability information in textile and clothing supply chain: A Delphi-based approach. In: EurOMA 2018 Proceedings: . Paper presented at 25th International EurOMA Conference, Budapest, 24-26 June, 2018.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Classification of traceability information in textile and clothing supply chain: A Delphi-based approach
2018 (English)In: EurOMA 2018 Proceedings, 2018Conference paper, Published paper (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

The study explores empirically the need and requirement of traceability system in Textile and Clothing (T&C) supply chain. A Delphi based survey was conducted with 28 supply chain experts (industry professionals and academicians) to collect qualitative and quantitative data in order to identify and prioritize various factors that influence traceability adoption in T&C supply chains. Based on these factors the study further explores, classifies and suggests information that can be recorded and shared for a complete traceability among T&C supply chain actors, both business-to-business and business-to-customers.  

Keywords
Delphi Study, Supply Chain, Textile and clothing, Traceability
National Category
Business Administration
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15068 (URN)
Conference
25th International EurOMA Conference, Budapest, 24-26 June, 2018
Projects
SMDTex (Sustainable Management and Design in Textiles)
Available from: 2018-09-06 Created: 2018-09-06 Last updated: 2018-09-06Bibliographically approved
Paras, M. K., Ekwall, D. & Pal, R. (2018). Developing a framework for the performance evaluation of sorting and grading firms of used clothing. Journal of Global Operations and Strategic Sourcing
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Developing a framework for the performance evaluation of sorting and grading firms of used clothing
2018 (English)In: Journal of Global Operations and Strategic Sourcing, ISSN 2398-5364Article in journal (Refereed) Epub ahead of print
Abstract [en]

Purpose

This paper aims to propose a framework for evaluating the performance of reverse value chain activities in the clothing industry operating at base of the pyramid. Specifically, the research explores firm and supply chain factors influencing clothing reverse value chain activities with a focus on developing economies.

Design/methodology/approach

The study adopted an explorative technique using direct observations and semi-structured interviews to collect information from eight companies and two traders. Internal resources and value chain capabilities were examined using theoretical underpinnings of resource-based view, transaction cost economics and base of the pyramid.

Findings

The paper identified multiple benefits of offshoring reverse value chain activities to the developing countries (at the base of the pyramid). Low operation cost, skilled manpower, business knowledge and location are found to be internal success factors. While favourable government legislation and domestic recycling markets are important external factors contributing to the success. Developing economies such as India contribute to firm performance by integrating, transforming, acquiring and co-creating the resources at base of the pyramid. Further, it was found that to achieve higher assets specificity, a few companies have opened their own shops in African countries, while others have opened sourcing branches in Canada or the USA to ensure good quality of raw materials. Collaboration and coordination among different value chain partners minimise cost and increases profitability. Innovation in the process such as clothes mutilation for recycling has created new business opportunities.

Research limitations/implications

Information was collected from only eight organisations and two traders from India. Future scholars may extend the research to generalise the findings by documenting similar phenomena.

Practical implications

The proposed framework can serve a basis for the practitioners to evaluate firm performance, and the insights can be used to achieve sustainability by engaging producers, employees, consumers and community using base of the pyramid approach.

Originality/value

The study provides unique insights into the prevalent export and re-exports phenomena of used clothing. The resource-based view, transaction cost economics and base of the pyramid strategy underpinned together to develop a framework for understanding reverse value chain activities of clothing.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Emerald Group Publishing Limited, 2018
Keywords
Qualitative, Clothing industry, Base of the pyramid, Firms performance framework, Sorting and grading, Reverse value chain
National Category
Economics and Business
Research subject
Business and IT; Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15467 (URN)10.1108/JGOSS-11-2017-0047 (DOI)2-s2.0-85055088071 (Scopus ID)
Projects
Erasmus Mundus joint doctoral programme (SMDTex)” funded by the European Commission
Available from: 2018-12-15 Created: 2018-12-15 Last updated: 2019-01-03Bibliographically approved
Agrawal, T. K. & Pal, R. (2018). Exploring secured traceability systems for implementation in textile and clothing supply chain. In: Proceeding TIWC conference 2018: . Paper presented at The 91st Textile Institute World Conference, Leeds, 23-26 July, 2018.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Exploring secured traceability systems for implementation in textile and clothing supply chain
2018 (English)In: Proceeding TIWC conference 2018, 2018Conference paper, Published paper (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

Information asymmetry and security are major challenges in multi-tier supply chains. Textile and clothing (T&C) supply chain is one such example significantly affected by these problems. Due to its complex and diverse nature, involved actors find it difficult to connect and secure each supply chain links. Exploiting this situation, a parallel counterfeit market is flourishing and gaining serious momentum. Due to this, T&C industries are suffering huge economic losses and job cuts. Additionally, owing to its opaque and untraceable supply chain, T&C industries have become a world of unethical practices. Secured traceability is an effective tool that has potentials to address these issues and make the T&C supply chain transparent and secured. It is a useful mechanism to track and trace products’ history, know about the manufacturing conditions and at the same time secure it from counterfeits and attacks targeting intellectual properties. In this context, the study conduct survey of supply chain experts to explore and rank the key technological requirements (based on the specific nature of the textile product) and traceability information that can be recorded and secured by a secured traceability system. Further, based on the findings of the survey a review of the literature was conducted to explore state of the art technologies to propose a primary secured traceability structure for the T&C supply chain.

Keywords
Security, Traceability, Supply Chain, Textile and clothing
National Category
Business Administration
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15069 (URN)
Conference
The 91st Textile Institute World Conference, Leeds, 23-26 July, 2018
Projects
SMDTex (Sustainable Management and Design in Textiles)
Available from: 2018-09-06 Created: 2018-09-06 Last updated: 2018-09-07Bibliographically approved
Sandberg, E., Pal, R. & Hemilä, J. (2018). Exploring value creation and appropriation in the reverse clothing supply chain. The International Journal of Logistics Management, 29(1), 90-109
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Exploring value creation and appropriation in the reverse clothing supply chain
2018 (English)In: The International Journal of Logistics Management, ISSN 0957-4903, Vol. 29, no 1, p. 90-109Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to explore the processes of value creation and appropriation among companies in a reverse clothing supply chain.

Design/methodology/approach: This research is based on an inductive case study approach at fashion retailers, charity organisations, commercial recyclers, and specialised sorting companies involved in take-back schemes for used clothes in the reverse clothing supply chain.

Findings: Value creation and appropriation processes are illustrated for different members of the reverse clothing supply chain. Results of different types of value and value co-creation explain the relatively high degree of collaboration among members in the “beginning” of the reverse supply chain. Here, collaboration outmanoeuvres the traditional value appropriation mechanism of price negotiation.

Research limitations/implications: This research does not cover all tiers in this global industry, and practices among different regions may hamper the generalisability of the findings presented.

Practical implications: This research allows a comprehensive picture of the members in the reverse clothing supply chain and outlines some of the major processes involved, decisive for value creation, and appropriation.

Originality/value: The research draws upon the value concept and combines processes of value creation and appropriation in one, single empirical study. By doing that, the research disseminates the reverse clothing supply chain in a new way and facilitates improved understanding of the structure and rationales for members taking part in it.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Emerald Group Publishing Limited, 2018
Keywords
Case study, Europe, India, Value creation, Clothing, Value appropriation, Reverse supply chain
National Category
Economics and Business
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-13976 (URN)10.1108/IJLM-10-2016-0241 (DOI)000425751200006 ()2-s2.0-85042463815 (Scopus ID)
Projects
Retextile
Funder
Region Västra Götaland
Available from: 2018-04-14 Created: 2018-04-14 Last updated: 2018-04-26Bibliographically approved
Pal, R. & Gander, J. (2018). Modelling environmental value: An examination of sustainable business models within the fashion industry. Journal of Cleaner Production, 184, 251-263
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Modelling environmental value: An examination of sustainable business models within the fashion industry
2018 (English)In: Journal of Cleaner Production, ISSN 0959-6526, E-ISSN 1879-1786, Vol. 184, p. 251-263Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

The business models of enterprises in the global fashion industry produce highly negative outcomes for the environment. High water usage, pollution from chemical treatments used in dyeing and preparation and the disposal of large amounts of unsold stock through incineration or landfill deposits combine to make clothing one of the highest impact industries on the planet. This paper uses the sustainable logics of narrowing, slowing and closing the loop of resources used during the production, design, manufacture and distribution of fashion garments to analyse emerging business models that seek to reduce the environmental impact of the fashion system. Taking the business model conceptualization of an enterprise as a system designed to create value for the customer and capture value for the firm, we add a consideration of environmental value and derive propositions that test the possibility that emerging sustainable business models in fashion will replace the dominant, unsustainable model. The paper argues that lack of scalability, incompatibility with fashion customers value propositions plus obstacles to supply chain changes militate against the prospect of the currently designed sustainable business models becoming the standard model of the fashion industry.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Elsevier, 2018
Keywords
Sustainable business models, Fashion, Environmental value, Scalability, Customer value, Firm value
National Category
Economics and Business
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-13975 (URN)10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.02.001 (DOI)000430779600023 ()2-s2.0-85044845737 (Scopus ID)
Projects
Retextile
Funder
Region Västra Götaland
Available from: 2018-04-14 Created: 2018-04-14 Last updated: 2018-11-30Bibliographically approved
Chizaryfard, A., Samie, Y. & Pal, R. (2018). New Textile Waste Management Through Collaborative Business Models for Sustainable Innovation. In: S.S. Muthu (Ed.), Detox Fashion: Waste Water Treatment (pp. 81-111). Singapore: Springer
Open this publication in new window or tab >>New Textile Waste Management Through Collaborative Business Models for Sustainable Innovation
2018 (English)In: Detox Fashion: Waste Water Treatment / [ed] S.S. Muthu, Singapore: Springer, 2018, p. 81-111Chapter in book (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

In most nations, textile waste management is recognized to be a multi-actor system; however most participating actors tend to play a significant role in handling and treating the textile waste single-handedly thus resulting in a very fragmented system fraught with many challenges. In addition, the main textile waste treatment, e.g. in Sweden is still incineration (nearly 55% of per capita disposal) resulting in low degrees of value generation. Nearly 20% of the waste is handled by ten major charities in Sweden. This highlights the necessity for the actors to perform in a network and expand their collaboration, thus move more efficiently towards development of a sustainable value innovation, and find an alternative new way to manage textile waste. Given this our study strives to investigate the challenges and opportunities of implementation of a collaborative business model for sustainable innovation. By taking the benefits of actor-, activity- and value-mapping technique, our study helps in gaining a better realization of the Swedish textile waste management system. The core values of actors have been identified along with the identification of their shared and conflicting values with the aid of a value mapping tool. Data was collected through semi-structured interviews from seven organizations representing the Swedish textile waste man- agement system. Overall our study provides a rich and descriptive picture of the participating actors, their activities, collaboration and value-orientations within the Swedish textile waste management system, and highlights the key drivers of a collaborative solution, viz. legislation, trust and shared understanding and communication, that can be foreseen to increase dialogue and collaboration among actors to support the movement from egocentric to a multi-actor business model. A clear benefit of such collaborative business models is substitution of incineration by higher degrees of reuse of textiles, which has high potential to generate positive environmental impact, through reduction of toxic effects of textile incineration and also new production processes.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Singapore: Springer, 2018
Series
Textile Science and Clothing Technology, ISSN 2197-9863, E-ISSN 2197-9871
Keywords
Waste management, Textile waste, Value mapping, Collaborative business model, Sustainable innovation, Sweden
National Category
Business Administration Environmental Management
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-12449 (URN)10.1007/978-981-10-4780-0_3 (DOI)978-981-10-4779-4 (ISBN)978-981-10-4780-0 (ISBN)
Projects
Re:textile
Funder
Region Västra Götaland
Available from: 2017-07-27 Created: 2017-07-27 Last updated: 2018-01-16Bibliographically approved
Harper, S. & Pal, R. (2018). Towards a conceptual model of manufacturing supply chain configuration for EU textile and apparel industry. In: EurOMA 2018 Proceedings: . Paper presented at 25th International EurOMA Conference, Budapest, June 24-26, 2018..
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Towards a conceptual model of manufacturing supply chain configuration for EU textile and apparel industry
2018 (English)In: EurOMA 2018 Proceedings, 2018Conference paper, Published paper (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

This article presents the development of a conceptual model for configuration of supply chains/networks for small series textile and apparel production, in contexts such as the EU. This configurational approach is needed due to the significant mismatch between current industry structures and the demand for small series production. The model, consisting of four elements with resulting themes and groupings, was developed through a systematic approach of the literature on the related types of production. The themes highlight the complexities and interdependencies that must be considered by managers. The linkages between the elements, in line with 3DCE, need to be further addressed.

Keywords
Supply Network Configuration, Textile and Apparel, Literature Review
National Category
Economics and Business
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15063 (URN)
Conference
25th International EurOMA Conference, Budapest, June 24-26, 2018.
Projects
Fashion Big Data Business Model
Funder
EU, Horizon 2020, 761122
Available from: 2018-09-06 Created: 2018-09-06 Last updated: 2018-09-07Bibliographically approved
Organisations
Identifiers
ORCID iD: ORCID iD iconorcid.org/0000-0003-2015-6275

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