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Pal, Rudrajeet, DocentORCID iD iconorcid.org/0000-0003-2015-6275
Publications (10 of 65) Show all publications
Sandberg, E., Pal, R. & Hemilä, J. (2018). Exploring value creation and appropriation in the reverse clothing supply chain. The International Journal of Logistics Management, 29(1), 90-109
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Exploring value creation and appropriation in the reverse clothing supply chain
2018 (English)In: The International Journal of Logistics Management, ISSN 0957-4903, Vol. 29, no 1, p. 90-109Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to explore the processes of value creation and appropriation among companies in a reverse clothing supply chain.

Design/methodology/approach: This research is based on an inductive case study approach at fashion retailers, charity organisations, commercial recyclers, and specialised sorting companies involved in take-back schemes for used clothes in the reverse clothing supply chain.

Findings: Value creation and appropriation processes are illustrated for different members of the reverse clothing supply chain. Results of different types of value and value co-creation explain the relatively high degree of collaboration among members in the “beginning” of the reverse supply chain. Here, collaboration outmanoeuvres the traditional value appropriation mechanism of price negotiation.

Research limitations/implications: This research does not cover all tiers in this global industry, and practices among different regions may hamper the generalisability of the findings presented.

Practical implications: This research allows a comprehensive picture of the members in the reverse clothing supply chain and outlines some of the major processes involved, decisive for value creation, and appropriation.

Originality/value: The research draws upon the value concept and combines processes of value creation and appropriation in one, single empirical study. By doing that, the research disseminates the reverse clothing supply chain in a new way and facilitates improved understanding of the structure and rationales for members taking part in it.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Emerald Group Publishing Limited, 2018
Keywords
Case study, Europe, India, Value creation, Clothing, Value appropriation, Reverse supply chain
National Category
Economics and Business
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-13976 (URN)10.1108/IJLM-10-2016-0241 (DOI)000425751200006 ()2-s2.0-85042463815 (Scopus ID)
Projects
Retextile
Funder
Region Västra Götaland
Available from: 2018-04-14 Created: 2018-04-14 Last updated: 2018-04-26Bibliographically approved
Pal, R. & Gander, J. (2018). Modelling environmental value: An examination of sustainable business models within the fashion industry. Journal of Cleaner Production, 184, 251-263
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Modelling environmental value: An examination of sustainable business models within the fashion industry
2018 (English)In: Journal of Cleaner Production, ISSN 0959-6526, E-ISSN 1879-1786, Vol. 184, p. 251-263Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

The business models of enterprises in the global fashion industry produce highly negative outcomes for the environment. High water usage, pollution from chemical treatments used in dyeing and preparation and the disposal of large amounts of unsold stock through incineration or landfill deposits combine to make clothing one of the highest impact industries on the planet. This paper uses the sustainable logics of narrowing, slowing and closing the loop of resources used during the production, design, manufacture and distribution of fashion garments to analyse emerging business models that seek to reduce the environmental impact of the fashion system. Taking the business model conceptualization of an enterprise as a system designed to create value for the customer and capture value for the firm, we add a consideration of environmental value and derive propositions that test the possibility that emerging sustainable business models in fashion will replace the dominant, unsustainable model. The paper argues that lack of scalability, incompatibility with fashion customers value propositions plus obstacles to supply chain changes militate against the prospect of the currently designed sustainable business models becoming the standard model of the fashion industry.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Elsevier, 2018
Keywords
Sustainable business models, Fashion, Environmental value, Scalability, Customer value, Firm value
National Category
Economics and Business
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-13975 (URN)10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.02.001 (DOI)2-s2.0-85044845737 (Scopus ID)
Projects
Retextile
Funder
Region Västra Götaland
Available from: 2018-04-14 Created: 2018-04-14 Last updated: 2018-04-18Bibliographically approved
Chizaryfard, A., Samie, Y. & Pal, R. (2018). New Textile Waste Management Through Collaborative Business Models for Sustainable Innovation. In: S.S. Muthu (Ed.), Detox Fashion: Waste Water Treatment (pp. 81-111). Singapore: Springer
Open this publication in new window or tab >>New Textile Waste Management Through Collaborative Business Models for Sustainable Innovation
2018 (English)In: Detox Fashion: Waste Water Treatment / [ed] S.S. Muthu, Singapore: Springer, 2018, p. 81-111Chapter in book (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

In most nations, textile waste management is recognized to be a multi-actor system; however most participating actors tend to play a significant role in handling and treating the textile waste single-handedly thus resulting in a very fragmented system fraught with many challenges. In addition, the main textile waste treatment, e.g. in Sweden is still incineration (nearly 55% of per capita disposal) resulting in low degrees of value generation. Nearly 20% of the waste is handled by ten major charities in Sweden. This highlights the necessity for the actors to perform in a network and expand their collaboration, thus move more efficiently towards development of a sustainable value innovation, and find an alternative new way to manage textile waste. Given this our study strives to investigate the challenges and opportunities of implementation of a collaborative business model for sustainable innovation. By taking the benefits of actor-, activity- and value-mapping technique, our study helps in gaining a better realization of the Swedish textile waste management system. The core values of actors have been identified along with the identification of their shared and conflicting values with the aid of a value mapping tool. Data was collected through semi-structured interviews from seven organizations representing the Swedish textile waste man- agement system. Overall our study provides a rich and descriptive picture of the participating actors, their activities, collaboration and value-orientations within the Swedish textile waste management system, and highlights the key drivers of a collaborative solution, viz. legislation, trust and shared understanding and communication, that can be foreseen to increase dialogue and collaboration among actors to support the movement from egocentric to a multi-actor business model. A clear benefit of such collaborative business models is substitution of incineration by higher degrees of reuse of textiles, which has high potential to generate positive environmental impact, through reduction of toxic effects of textile incineration and also new production processes.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Singapore: Springer, 2018
Series
Textile Science and Clothing Technology, ISSN 2197-9863, E-ISSN 2197-9871
Keywords
Waste management, Textile waste, Value mapping, Collaborative business model, Sustainable innovation, Sweden
National Category
Business Administration Environmental Management
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-12449 (URN)10.1007/978-981-10-4780-0_3 (DOI)978-981-10-4779-4 (ISBN)978-981-10-4780-0 (ISBN)
Projects
Re:textile
Funder
Region Västra Götaland
Available from: 2017-07-27 Created: 2017-07-27 Last updated: 2018-01-16Bibliographically approved
Pal, R. & Aneja, A. (2017). Ambidexterity drivers of value-creation and appropriation in business models: an explorative study from DuPont. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 21(1), 2-26
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Ambidexterity drivers of value-creation and appropriation in business models: an explorative study from DuPont
2017 (English)In: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, ISSN 1560-6074, Vol. 21, no 1, p. 2-26Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Purpose – This paper aims to investigate how different trajectories can be detected and classified in business models (BMs) at the level of their underlying product development value-structure (value-creation and appropriation), and what are the drivers. Such BMs are run by multinational firms to accommodate various technologies and innovations; however, this is stressful because of inherent incompatibilities and conflicts.

Design/methodology/approach – An explorative study of six product cases from Du Pont’s Textiles Fiber Division (DTFD), namely, nylon yarns, knits and wovens, DTFD blockbusters, Coolmax®, MicroMattique™, filling materials and Supriva™, is conducted.

Findings – In value-creation, technology push or market pull yields resultant technology-forward or market-back trajectories. For value appropriation, new growth opportunities or continuous market expectations lead to breakthrough or continuous innovations. Consistent and inconsistent combinations of these trajectories yield four differential drivers: technological breakthrough, market-back technology, continuous technology and continuous market-back. This is supported by relevant supply chain strategies, either focused through joint ventures and licensees for commodities or vertically integrated for specialty products.

Research limitations/implications – The paper adds to the analysis of ambidexterity in the value structure of BMs along constituent value-creation and appropriation, thus providing a logical lens to understand various complementarities that exist in terms of opposing technology trajectories and product innovation repertoire.

Practical implications – This study contributes to the knowledge of product innovation management in the textile industry, where both large-scale innovation and operational excellence are challenged over the past few decades.

Originality/value – The lessons learnt address the fundamental issue of higher value generation through configuration of multiple contrasting value-structure elements.

Keywords
Textile, Value-creation, Business model, Ambidexterity, Appropriation, Du Pont
National Category
Economics and Business
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-12081 (URN)10.1108/RJTA-09-2016-0021 (DOI)
Available from: 2017-04-02 Created: 2017-04-02 Last updated: 2017-11-29Bibliographically approved
Paras, M. K., Pal, R. & Curteza, A. (2017). Application of Absorbing Markov Chain for Life Cycle Assesment of Clothes Reuse in Nordic Countries. In: : . Paper presented at POMS 28th Annual Conference, May 5-8, 2017.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Application of Absorbing Markov Chain for Life Cycle Assesment of Clothes Reuse in Nordic Countries
2017 (English)Conference paper, Oral presentation with published abstract (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

The paper has developed a model to count the number of cycles or trips that clothing product makes in reused based closed loop cycle. The proposed model tested to study the textile waste flow in the Nordic countries. The result indicates clothes reuse is highest in Denmark whereas lowest in Finland.

National Category
Business Administration
Research subject
Bussiness and IT
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-12660 (URN)
Conference
POMS 28th Annual Conference, May 5-8, 2017
Funder
EU, European Research Council, SMDTex
Available from: 2017-09-20 Created: 2017-09-20 Last updated: 2017-09-28Bibliographically approved
Paras, M. K. & Pal, R. (2017). Application of Markov chain for LCA: a study on the clothes 'reuse' in Nordic countries. The International Journal of Advanced Manufacturing Technology
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Application of Markov chain for LCA: a study on the clothes 'reuse' in Nordic countries
2017 (English)In: The International Journal of Advanced Manufacturing Technology, ISSN 0268-3768, E-ISSN 1433-3015Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

The purpose of this paper is to develop a model to count the number of cycles or trips that a clothing product could make in a reuse-based closed loop cycle. The model is primarily based on three scenarios: (i) self-reuse (ii) discard to second-hand market and (iii) disposed to incineration or the recycling stations. The present study extended and complemented the existing literature by presenting the application of the Markov chain to analyse the future of textile products on the basis of probabilities. Subsequently, the proposed model has been used to study the textile waste flow in the Nordic countries, i.e. Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden. The application of the proposed model on the data from the Nordic Countries indicated that the average number of times the clothes reuse is highest in Denmark, whereas the lowest was found in Finland. Repair and redesign were found a hotspot for the recovery of clothes. Variation in these hotspots can increase the trip number of clothes. A sensitivity analysis is performed and conclusions are made regarding variations of clothes reuse under different scenarios. The proposed model may help in the decision formulation for the companies, government authorities and research agencies which focus on reuse and recycling of textile products. Based on the insights from the present work, the decision maker may take several initiatives to increase the life span of a textile product.

Keywords
Fashion value chain, Closed loop, Reuse, Markov chain, Textile waste
National Category
Business Administration
Research subject
Business and IT; Resource Recovery
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-12550 (URN)10.1007/s00170-017-0845-5 (DOI)2-s2.0-85027127869 (Scopus ID)
Projects
SMDTex
Funder
EU, European Research Council, SMDTex
Available from: 2017-09-01 Created: 2017-09-01 Last updated: 2017-12-18Bibliographically approved
Pal, R., Larsson, J., Harper, S. & Vellesalu, A. (2017). Competitive manufacturing for reshoring textile and clothing supply chains to high-cost environment – A delphi approach. In: K. S. Pawar; A. Potter and A. Lisec (Ed.), Data Driven Supply Chains: . Paper presented at 22nd International Symposium on Logistics (ISL 2017), Ljubljana Slovenia, July 9-12, 2017. (pp. 70-80). Nottingham: Centre for Concurrent Enterprise, Nottingham University Business School
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Competitive manufacturing for reshoring textile and clothing supply chains to high-cost environment – A delphi approach
2017 (English)In: Data Driven Supply Chains / [ed] K. S. Pawar; A. Potter and A. Lisec, Nottingham: Centre for Concurrent Enterprise, Nottingham University Business School, 2017, p. 70-80Conference paper, Published paper (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

Existing knowledge of reshoring, enabled largely by competitive manufacturing (CM) strategies in high-cost locations, is limited particularly in context to labour-intensive industries, like textile and clothing (T&C). The purpose of the paper is to identify and prioritize various CM-related supply chain factors that can enable reshoring of T&C to high-cost area. Following a systematic literature review, a multiple round Delphi study is conducted with T&C manufacturers in Sweden to seek practitioners’ perspective. While there is high consensus on the success factors, flexibility to meet short lead times, high product/service quality, and product/service customization; low degree of agreement is reached for the perceived challenges. Some out of literature debates emerged in terms of challenges related to CM in high-cost area, regarding increased fixed costs of production, rise in inventory level due to high product variety requirement, and low skill level against access to skills. Along with the decisive knowledge on the CM-related success factors for reshored supply chains, the Delphi study offers an interesting practitioners’ perspective from a labour-intensive sector like T&C.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Nottingham: Centre for Concurrent Enterprise, Nottingham University Business School, 2017
Keywords
Competitive manufacturing, reshoring, supply chain, Delphi study, textile and clothing
National Category
Business Administration Transport Systems and Logistics
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-12452 (URN)9780853583196 (ISBN)
Conference
22nd International Symposium on Logistics (ISL 2017), Ljubljana Slovenia, July 9-12, 2017.
Projects
Konkurrenskraftig lokal textiltillverkning, Sparbanksstiftelsen Sjuhärad
Available from: 2017-07-27 Created: 2017-07-27 Last updated: 2018-01-03Bibliographically approved
Gwilt, A. & Pal, R. (2017). Conditional garment design for longevity. In: Conny A. Bakker, Ruth Mugge (Ed.), PLATE: Product Lifetimes And The Environment: . Paper presented at PLATE Conference, Delft, November 8-10, 2017 (pp. 149-153). IOS Press, 9
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Conditional garment design for longevity
2017 (English)In: PLATE: Product Lifetimes And The Environment / [ed] Conny A. Bakker, Ruth Mugge, IOS Press, 2017, Vol. 9, p. 149-153Conference paper, Published paper (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

In the clothing sector, approaches to design for longevity can provide the "…single largest opportunity to reduce the carbon, water and waste footprints of the clothing in the UK" (WRAP, 2013a). Although an emphasis lies on slowing consumption, the types of design-led approaches that can be used to achieve this goal are considerably varied yet sparingly used by the mainstream fashion industry. In light of the growth of a circular economy, the challenge facing the fashion industry is to adapt the existing product design and development model and explore a fashion system where other, more diverse design approaches can prosper. Thus, this paper attempts to contribute to this debate and further highlight factors that need to be considered by fashion companies when developing garments designed for longevity.

Through a range of novel design principles/methods, underpinning modularity and incremental garment design/construction in this paper we demonstrate how designers may begin to envisage garments as items designed for longevity. The experimental work carried out here is part of a larger initiative, Re:Textile in Sweden (Retextile, 2017). In the experiments conducted we demonstrate the power of various garment design conditions intended to synthesize a change towards garment longevity. Together with highlights of the key processes and basic design principles underpinning these design-led approaches, the experimental work also specifies how and where they contribute in achieving the aims of designing in a circular economy. The findings also highlight the opportunities for improving the redesignability of the garment in its active use life as set by the original design conditions laid in light of design for longevity.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
IOS Press, 2017
Series
Research in Design Series, ISSN 978-1-61499-819-8, E-ISSN 978-1-61499-820-4
Keywords
Clothing design, Longevity, Modular, Incremental, Design strategy
National Category
Economics and Business
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General); Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-13175 (URN)10.3233/978-1-61499-820-4-149 (DOI)
Conference
PLATE Conference, Delft, November 8-10, 2017
Available from: 2017-12-16 Created: 2017-12-16 Last updated: 2017-12-18Bibliographically approved
Pal, R., Gander, J. & Ainamo, A. (2017). Modelling environmental value: an analysis of sustainable business models within the fashion industry. In: : . Paper presented at 1st Business Model Conference, Venice, Italy, May 18-19, 2017.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Modelling environmental value: an analysis of sustainable business models within the fashion industry
2017 (English)Conference paper, Oral presentation only (Other academic)
National Category
Business Administration
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-12450 (URN)
Conference
1st Business Model Conference, Venice, Italy, May 18-19, 2017
Available from: 2017-07-27 Created: 2017-07-27 Last updated: 2017-12-13Bibliographically approved
Pal, R. (2017). Sustainable Design and Business Models in Textile and Fashion Industry. In: S.S. Muthu (Ed.), Sustainability in the Textile Industry: (pp. 109-138). Singapore: Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Sustainable Design and Business Models in Textile and Fashion Industry
2017 (English)In: Sustainability in the Textile Industry / [ed] S.S. Muthu, Singapore: Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd , 2017, p. 109-138Chapter in book (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

Textile, Clothing and Fashion (TCF) are one of the most unsustainable industries in the world. This challenges triple-bottom line sustainability thus calling for increased intervention by designing sustainable development. Several industrial sustainability models have addressed this issue but they assume incremental improvements and growth while addressing global challenges. Thus a Sustainable Business Model perspective is required to think and go beyond these increments and reconceive radically how businesses should operate to drive system-level sustainability. In line with 8 major sustainable business model archetypes existing, this chapter first contextualizes them in TCF industries, and goes further to identify 5 key design elements (and underlying strategies) underpinning them. The knowledge of these key design elements (product, process, value network, relation, and consumption pattern), upholding a system thinking approach, will further assist both research and practice to strategically develop and improve the sustainable innovations and business models.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Singapore: Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd, 2017
Series
Textile Science and Clothing Technology
Keywords
Sustainable Design, Sustainable Business models, Textile and Clothing, Fashion
National Category
Economics and Business
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-11170 (URN)10.1007/978-981-10-2639-3_6 (DOI)
Available from: 2016-11-24 Created: 2016-11-24 Last updated: 2016-12-02Bibliographically approved
Organisations
Identifiers
ORCID iD: ORCID iD iconorcid.org/0000-0003-2015-6275

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