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Pal, Rudrajeet, Full ProfessorORCID iD iconorcid.org/0000-0003-2015-6275
Publications (10 of 114) Show all publications
Paras, M. K., Wang, L., Pal, R. & Ekwall, D. (2023). A sustainable model based on genetic algorithm for garment redesign process. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 27(5), 870-887
Open this publication in new window or tab >>A sustainable model based on genetic algorithm for garment redesign process
2023 (English)In: Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, ISSN 1361-2026, E-ISSN 1758-7433, Vol. 27, no 5, p. 870-887Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Purpose

This study proposes a garment modularization model based on an interactive genetic algorithm. The suggested model consists of extraction and identification of parts and the determination and implementation of connections. Rules and corresponding mathematical equations have been formulated for the part's extractions from the discarded products and connections for the redesigned products.

Design/methodology/approach

Sustainability entices scholars and practitioners while referring to reducing waste to control environmental degradation. One of the ways to safeguard natural resources is to increase the reuse of old or discarded products. The current study focuses on the redesign process to improve the reuse of products.

Findings

The intelligent system proposed based on the modularization techniques is expected to simplify and quantify the redesign process. The model can further help in the minimization of wastage and environmental degradation.

Originality/value

Presently, manual decisions are taken by the designers based on their memory, experience and intuition to extract and join the parts.

 

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Emerald Group Publishing Limited, 2023
Keywords
Sustainable design, Redesign, Fashion industry, Heuristic approach, Mathematical model
National Category
Textile, Rubber and Polymeric Materials Economics and Business
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-29310 (URN)10.1108/JFMM-04-2022-0096 (DOI)000946372800001 ()2-s2.0-85145278541 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2023-01-17 Created: 2023-01-17 Last updated: 2024-02-01Bibliographically approved
Paras, M. K., Pal, R. & Ekwall, D. (2023). An exploratory study of Swedish and Romanian organisations to investigate upcycling practice in the clothing industry. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel
Open this publication in new window or tab >>An exploratory study of Swedish and Romanian organisations to investigate upcycling practice in the clothing industry
2023 (English)In: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, ISSN 1560-6074Article in journal (Refereed) Epub ahead of print
Abstract [en]

Purpose

The process of redesigning is one of the essential steps in upcycling, which comprises ideation, reconstruction and fitting. This paper aims to study the best practice of upcycling in the clothing industry. This study is an attempt to standardise upcycling/redesign process.

Design/methodology/approach

An exploratory approach was adopted to perform the research. This study draws on the multiple organisations involved in the upcycling of clothes. The organisations chosen for this study are located in Sweden and Romania using the snowball technique. Semi-structured interviews, direct and participatory observation approaches were used to collect information. The collected data are systematically analysed using NVivo 10 software.

Findings

This paper provides empirical insights into the diverse practices of upcycling. Process, product and demand-based were three fundamental approaches to performing the redesigning process. The fabric quality and durability, variations in size, colour and pattern, skills and efforts required in the extraction of parts and environmental consciousness and awareness were the main factors influencing upcycling process.

Research limitations/implications

The use of the European case may miss best practices from the other region. This study may help scholars to understand the method of upcycling. A practitioner of upcycling can use the findings to improve and standardise the existing process. This research is beneficial for society, as this leads to the reduction of textile wastage.

Originality/value

This paper conceptualises some of the best practices of clothes redesign. This provides a good insight for the organisation for the improvement in the redesign business.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Emerald Group Publishing Limited, 2023
Keywords
upcycling, redesigning, remanufacturing, reverse value chain, closed-loop value chain
National Category
Business Administration
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-29363 (URN)10.1108/rjta-04-2022-0048 (DOI)000911797500001 ()2-s2.0-85146218841 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2023-01-30 Created: 2023-01-30 Last updated: 2024-02-01Bibliographically approved
Pal, R. & Sandberg, E. (2023). Circular supply chain valorisation through sustainable value mapping in the post-consumer used clothing sector. The International Journal of Logistics Management
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Circular supply chain valorisation through sustainable value mapping in the post-consumer used clothing sector
2023 (English)In: The International Journal of Logistics Management, ISSN 0957-4093Article in journal (Refereed) Epub ahead of print
Abstract [en]

Purpose: The purpose of this study is to explore the antecedents of uncaptured sustainable value and strategies to generate opportunities to capture it in the circular supply chain of post-consumer used clothing.

Design/methodology/approach: This study is based on an inductive analysis of 21 semi-structured interviews conducted with various stakeholders in the circular clothing supply chain (for-profit and not-for-profit) using the value mapping approach, as previously applied in the literature on sustainable business models.

Findings: Fifteen antecedents of uncaptured sustainable value, and thirteen value opportunity strategies were revealed that hinder or generate multi-dimensional value types. Economic value is impacted the most, while there is lack of explicit understanding of the impact of these antecedents and strategies on environmental and social value capture. From a multi-stakeholder perspective, the ecosystem is emerging as new for-profit actors are developing novel process technologies, while not-for-profit actors are consolidating their positions by offering new service options. There is also an emerging “coopetition” between the different stakeholders.

Research limitations/implications: More granularity in the different types of uncaptured value could be considered, and external supply chain stakeholders, such as the government, could be included, leading to more detailed value mapping.

Practical implications: This research provides practitioners with a value-mapping tool in circular clothing supply chains, thus providing a structured approach to explore, analyse and understand uncaptured value and value opportunities.

Originality/value: This extended value perspective draws upon the value-mapping approach from the sustainable business model literature and applies it in the context of the circular clothing supply chain. In doing so, this research illustrates circular clothing supply chains in a new way that facilitates an improved understanding of multi-dimensional and multi-stakeholder value for embedded actors.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Emerald Group Publishing Limited, 2023
Keywords
Circular supply chain, Clothing, Value uncaptured, Value opportunity, Europe
National Category
Economics and Business Textile, Rubber and Polymeric Materials
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-31309 (URN)10.1108/IJLM-01-2023-0023 (DOI)001108739700001 ()2-s2.0-85177839133 (Scopus ID)
Funder
The Kamprad Family Foundation, 20200105
Available from: 2024-01-13 Created: 2024-01-13 Last updated: 2024-02-01Bibliographically approved
Pal, R., Sandberg, E., Dissanayake, K. & Paras, M. K. (2023). Circular used clothing valorization: Executive Brief. Sweden
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Circular used clothing valorization: Executive Brief
2023 (English)Report (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
Abstract [en]

This Executive Brief compiles the key results obtained from some ongoing research and innovation studies conducted with the scope of two ongoing projects: (i) CLOSeD (Circular clothing dichotomies in global-local supply chain dispersion) funded by Ikea Family Research Foundation; ongoing since January 2021, and (ii) Circular Logistics (Exploring the role of logistics in the circular textile ecosystem) funded by Formas (Swedish research council for sustainable development); ongoing since May 2022. 

[More about the 2 projects here: CLOSeD↗  Circular Logistics↗]

This Executive Brief is one-of-its-kind, given that it synthesizes the results of multiple ongoing studies, and draws connection among them by presenting an overarching purpose of creating science-based logical reasoning and understanding of how circular clothing supply chains and ecosystems, and the organizations embedded within, can maximise their valorisation potential amid the changing landscape led by, for example, the European Union (EU)-wide planning and adoption of “EU Strategy for textiles”. 

A common thread of our argument, as put forward in this Executive Brief is while the textile circular economy is largely influenced in practice by recent technological advancements, related to circular material development, innovative products and processes, or digitalization of circular business models and operations, the motivation in driving them forward has been largely from an efficiency-gain perspective, both in terms of economics and ecology, that is address whether and how circular economy would minimise costs, enhance profitability, and render economies of scale. A novelty-centred perspective has been largely implicit in this regard; however critical to generate a top-line on how circular supply chains and ecosystems should generate sustainable value, beyond cost/profit dimensions.

To address this our Executive Brief presents the 5 distinct studies’ results. Each study is enriched by empirically-driven dataset, analytical framing and scientific methodology, while at the same time are aligned by a common objective: to explore and provide explanation of the main challenges to value generation in circular clothing supply chains and ecosystems, and what concrete strategic solutions are/can be devised.  

Ø  STUDY 1 explores the values currently uncaptured, new opportunities and strategies to capture them, from a multi-dimensional and multi-stakeholder perspective, in context to European used clothing circular supply chain from multiple countries.

Ø  STUDY 2 checks the triple-bottom line sustainability credential of distributed Global North-South used clothing circular supply chain, by weighing the pros and cons against each other and finally proposing what needs further attention for future valorization.

Ø  STUDY 3 highlights the underlying supply chain capabilities prerequisite to design textile-to-textile recycling value chain for handling post-consumer waste in Global North.

Ø  STUDY 4 presents the case of a multi-national Swedish fashion retailer to pen down what capabilities are essential of an ecosystem leader or captain in orchestrating circular supply chains of post-consumer used clothes.

Ø  STUDY 5 initiates a mapping of multi-tiered textile recycling value chain in Global South by presenting the case of Panipat in India - world’s largest mechanical recycling hub.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Sweden: , 2023
Keywords
Circular Clothing Supply chains, Circular Clothing Ecosystems, Value
National Category
Economics and Business Textile, Rubber and Polymeric Materials
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-29558 (URN)
Funder
The Kamprad Family Foundation, 20200105Swedish Research Council Formas, 2021-02445
Available from: 2023-03-22 Created: 2023-03-22 Last updated: 2023-03-22Bibliographically approved
Kumar, V., Hernández, N., Jensen, M. & Pal, R. (2023). Deep learning based system for garment visual degradation prediction for longevity. Computers in industry (Print), 144, Article ID 103779.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Deep learning based system for garment visual degradation prediction for longevity
2023 (English)In: Computers in industry (Print), ISSN 0166-3615, E-ISSN 1872-6194, Vol. 144, article id 103779Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Prolonging garment longevity is a well-recognized key strategy to reduce the overall environmental impact in the textile and clothing sector. In this context, change or degradation in esthetic or visual appeal of a garment with usage is an important factor that largely influence its longevity. Therefore, to engineer the garments for a required lifetime or prolong longevity, there is a need for predictive systems that can forecast the trajectory of visual degradation based on material/structural parameters or use conditions that can guide the practitioners for an optimal design. This paper develops a deep learning based predictive system for washing-induced visual change or degradation of selected garment areas. The study follows a systematic experimental design to generate and capture visual degradation in garment and equivalent fabric samples through 70 cycles in a controlled environment following guideline from relevant washing standards. Further, the generated data is utilized to train conditional Generative Adversarial Network-based deep learning model that learns the degradation pattern and links it to washing cycles and other seam properties. In addition, the predicted results are compared with experimental data using Frechet Inception Distance, to ascertain that the system prediction are visually similar to the experimental data and the prediction quality improves with training process.

Keywords
Garment longevity, Predictive system, Generative Adversarial Networks (GANs), Deep learning
National Category
Computer Sciences Information Systems Textile, Rubber and Polymeric Materials
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-28623 (URN)10.1016/j.compind.2022.103779 (DOI)000865427500005 ()2-s2.0-85137731068 (Scopus ID)
Funder
University of Borås, 2019-04938
Available from: 2022-09-18 Created: 2022-09-18 Last updated: 2024-02-01Bibliographically approved
Dehghannejad, M. & Pal, R. (2023). Exploring paradoxes to scaling circular business models in cascading systems in the textile and clothing industry. In: Kirsi Niinimäki, Kirsti Cura (Ed.), PROCEEDINGS 5th PLATE Conference: . Paper presented at The 5th Product Lifetimes and the Environment (PLATE), Aalto University, Espoo, Finland, 31 May – 2 June, 2023. (pp. 231-236). Espoo, Finland
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Exploring paradoxes to scaling circular business models in cascading systems in the textile and clothing industry
2023 (English)In: PROCEEDINGS 5th PLATE Conference / [ed] Kirsi Niinimäki, Kirsti Cura, Espoo, Finland, 2023, p. 231-236Conference paper, Published paper (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

To achieve the ultimate potential of circular economy (CE), cascading plural circular business models (CBMs) can essentially slow down, narrow, and close resource loops while simultaneously achieving long-life products. Operating in cascades, however, organizations face many paradoxical tensions (PTs) due to different goals, designs, and resource requirements, as well as demands for new and unusual collaborations. Having a narrative literature review, 7 categories of PTs that could hinder scaling CBMs in cascaded systems in the textile and clothing (T&C) industry were identified. Conducting 20 semi-structured interviews with European brands/retailers, charities (secondhand stores), sorters, and recyclers who operate in cascading, this paper has contextualized four paradox classes (organizing, performing, belonging, and learning) of Smith and Lewis’s (2011) paradox theory framework along those 7 categories; while mostly classified as organizing and performing, categories 5 (between circular supply structure and governance alternatives) and 1 (between scale and scope) are reported as the most prominent among T&C actors, respectively. Although those prominent categories can directly hinder the scalability of cascading CBMs, those that appeared internally and were associated with a particular CBM could indirectly affect scaling.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Espoo, Finland: , 2023
Keywords
Circular Business Model; Cascading; Scaling; Paradox Theory; Textile and Clothing.
National Category
Textile, Rubber and Polymeric Materials Economics and Business
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-30959 (URN)978-952-64-1367-9 (ISBN)
Conference
The 5th Product Lifetimes and the Environment (PLATE), Aalto University, Espoo, Finland, 31 May – 2 June, 2023.
Projects
SCArCITY
Funder
Swedish Research Council Formas, 2021-00529
Available from: 2023-12-05 Created: 2023-12-05 Last updated: 2024-01-10Bibliographically approved
Hultberg, E. & Pal, R. (2023). Exploring Scalability from a Triple Bottom Line Perspective: Challenges and Strategic Resources for Fashion Resale. Circular Economy and Sustainability
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Exploring Scalability from a Triple Bottom Line Perspective: Challenges and Strategic Resources for Fashion Resale
2023 (English)In: Circular Economy and Sustainability, ISSN 2730-597X, E-ISSN 2730-5988Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Resale-based circular business models (CBMs) hold immense potential to contribute towards sustainability in fashion retail. To significantly impact triple bottom line (TBL) sustainability, these fashion CBMs need to be scalable. This paper investigates the challenges for scaling resale-based fashion from a TBL perspective, as well as the strategic resources required to solve these. Based on 15 semi-structured interviews, six key scalability challenges and six main strategic resources are identified. Findings show that even though challenges are mostly referred to in economic terms, environmental and social challenges are also present. The difference is that those challenges are less visible, partly due to the lack of clear and standardised tools and definitions to interpret scale. Lessons from the study can be insightful for practitioners in reflecting on the scalability potential of their CBMs from a TBL perspective and understanding what resources to make use of or develop. 

National Category
Business Administration
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-29801 (URN)10.1007/s43615-023-00267-0 (DOI)2-s2.0-85169084478 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2023-05-15 Created: 2023-05-15 Last updated: 2024-02-01Bibliographically approved
Harper, S., Pal, R. & Kumar, V. (2023). Modelling small-series supply network configuration and capabilities through a mixed-method structural analysis: Insights from high-cost textile/apparel contexts. International Journal of Services and Operations Management, 46(2), 232-259
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Modelling small-series supply network configuration and capabilities through a mixed-method structural analysis: Insights from high-cost textile/apparel contexts
2023 (English)In: International Journal of Services and Operations Management, ISSN 1744-2370, Vol. 46, no 2, p. 232-259Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

The purpose of this paper is to understand supply network configuration for small-series production within high-cost contexts, and the context-specific decision logics associated. A total interpretive structural modelling (TISM) and MICMAC mixed-methods approach is used to determine and interpret interrelationships among SNC and capability-related aspects identified from the literature. Respondents come from EU textile/apparel companies, undertaking small-series production/sourcing in the region, with different roles in the value chain. The findings led to several propositions. They highlight the foundational nature of supply chain relationships and digital data sharing; interacting product/process flexibility and specialisation considerations, with associated enablers and barriers; the challenges related to location, which is the crucial supply chain driver; and the need to balance various interrelated capability drivers, such as quality, innovation, and sustainability. These findings can support practitioners for reconfiguration, and the approach can be used to address other contexts and thus enhance generalisability.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
InderScience Publishers, 2023
Keywords
supply network configuration, supply chain design, small-series production, decision-making, total interpretive structural modelling, TISM, operations management, textile/apparel, European Union, EU
National Category
Economics and Business Textile, Rubber and Polymeric Materials
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-27398 (URN)10.1504/IJSOM.2021.10042173 (DOI)
Projects
Fashion Big Data Business Model
Funder
EU, Horizon 2020, 761122
Available from: 2022-01-28 Created: 2022-01-28 Last updated: 2024-01-13
Harper, S. & Pal, R. (2023). Resilient Local Manufacturing In Sjuhärad: A Delphi Study To Identify Enablers And Challenges.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Resilient Local Manufacturing In Sjuhärad: A Delphi Study To Identify Enablers And Challenges
2023 (English)Report (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
Abstract [en]

This report details a Delphi study undertaken within the ongoing research project “Resilient supply chains for local textile and clothing production in small series” with funding from Sparbanksstiftelsen Sjuhärad-No.20221947. 

Specifically, this report summarizes the results of a Delphi study-designed to capture the level of agreement among practitioners operating within the Sjuhärad region in Western Sweden regarding the enablers and challenges of resilience within local textile and apparel manufacturing supply chains. These results are based on the perceptions of representatives from diverse companies that have had experience with local manufacturing and/or sourcing, which undertake activities within one or more value chain stages (textile manufacturing; garment manufacturing; retail). The two main steps of the Delphi study were, first to identify issues that are enablers and/or challenges-relevant to at least two companies within an interview round, and then to evaluate those issues using an online questionnaire to analyze and visualize levels of agreement. 

A key argument of the study and larger research project is that both localization opportunities and challenges are significant within the textile and apparel industry, due to having high risk exposure with complex global supply chain structures. So, there is a need to understand the complexity of such location decisions in this context, including associated trade-offs for resilience. On one hand, localization can lead to enhanced flexibility, responsiveness, and customization due to reduced complexity and shorter supply chain distances, but on the other hand local supply chains can reduce adaptability related to global network structures and can be challenged by cost trade-offs. To understand this complexity, the supply network configuration approach can be helpful-to show structures that underpin resilience. By addressing the supporting structures and capabilities required for resilience, this report can support development of more resilient supply chains by highlighting what is required for improved resilience outcomes (Competitiveness; Growth; Reduced risk exposure; Reduced recovery time) and what challenges must be overcome.

The key results of the Delphi study show moderate levels of resilience in the context, which is supported by several enablers, which can be challenging with insufficient levels. Agreement is found with enablers related to:

  • Capabilities and performance priorities (situational awareness; quality; delivery/short lead times; sustainability)
  • Processes (flexibility and agility; competence)
  • Relationships (close and long-term relationships; transparency and communication)

The only two challenges with high levels of agreement are competence limitations and high costs/cost trade-offs. However, the lack of both strong opinions and high levels of agreement about resilience indicates opportunities for improvement. The suggested need for managers to have strong situational awareness can be a key area to develop.

In contrast, there were more mixed opinions found among respondents about other enablers/challenges, including location as either an enabler or challenge for resilience, and challenges related to exposure to external risks/disruptions. This suggests diverse experiences related to localization in a context of increasing external challenges. Additionally, the lack of strong opinions about digital tools/automation as an enabler suggests additional development is required, although several respondents emphasize significant recent investments as crucial. The lack of strong agreement about product-related enablers/challenges suggests different perspectives on small-series production, although the majority of respondents consider focusing on small volume, high value products to be more an enabler of resilience than a challenge. Overall, these findings indicate that managers must carefully consider localization with respect to cost trade-offs, limited industry know-how and varying levels of exposure to other challenges in high-cost contexts. 

Looking forward, such insights related to enablers/challenges of resilience should be taken into consideration within decision-making processes-that define supply network configuration (products, processes, relationships, supply chain structures), with respect to implementation and scaling goals. Notably, the findings suggest companies are likely to need to invest in competence development, including process and technology-related skills, as well as sensing skills (awareness). However, careful consideration of cost trade-offs is required within such decision-making processes, which should be addressed throughout the supply chain from the perspective of actors with control over supply chains. Such decision-making considerations will be addressed in the following report within this research project.

Keywords
Supply chain resilience, Supply network configuration, High-cost contexts
National Category
Business Administration
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-30445 (URN)978-91-89833-22-7 (ISBN)
Projects
Resilient supply chains for local textile and clothing production in small series
Note

Funder: Sparbanksstiftelsen Sjuhärad

Project No.20221947

Available from: 2023-09-07 Created: 2023-09-07 Last updated: 2023-09-07Bibliographically approved
Harper, S. & Pal, R. (2023). Supply network configuration for resilient high-cost textile and apparel manufacturing supply chains: A Delphi study. In: : . Paper presented at EurOMA-Leuven, Belgium (July 3-5).
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Supply network configuration for resilient high-cost textile and apparel manufacturing supply chains: A Delphi study
2023 (English)Conference paper, Oral presentation with published abstract (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

Increasing disruptions demand understanding challenges with localizing supply chains for resilience. These opportunities and challenges are significant within the textile and apparel industry. The purpose of the research is to understand how supply network configuration factors (structure/capabilities) enable or challenge the resilience of local manufacturing supply chains, through a two-stage Delphi study. Based on semi-structured interviews with diverse practitioners within a specific high-cost context and survey responses, consensus is found regarding enablers including flexibility, sustainability, close relationships, and situational awareness, and only cost and competence challenges. Findings confirm complex trade-offs and additionally suggest the importance of developing/building upon sensing capabilities.

Keywords
Supply chain resilience, Supply chain design, Delphi study
National Category
Business Administration
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-28376 (URN)
Conference
EurOMA-Leuven, Belgium (July 3-5)
Note

Funder: Sparbanksstiftelsen Sjuhärad

Project-20221947

Available from: 2023-11-15 Created: 2023-11-15 Last updated: 2023-11-24Bibliographically approved
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ORCID iD: ORCID iD iconorcid.org/0000-0003-2015-6275

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