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Hedegård, L., Gustafsson, E. & Paras, M. K. (2019). Management of sustainable fashion retail based on reuse: A struggle with multiple logics. The International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Management of sustainable fashion retail based on reuse: A struggle with multiple logics
2019 (English)In: The International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research, ISSN 0959-3969Article in journal (Refereed) Epub ahead of print
Abstract [en]

In scholarly conversations, reuse is one of the common suggested strategies to render fashion retail sustainable. Previous research has stressed the complexity of fashion reuse and the importance of a well-organized system. The complexity stems from processes that involve many actors as well as products hard to evaluate. Consequently, it is challenging to organize reuse-based fashion retail, and studies are needed to further develop knowledge regarding how to manage such systems. Hence, the purpose of this paper is to highlight the complexity in the management of such an initiative, by identifying and explaining obstacles as well as implications. With institutional logics as a framework, three local logics (shopping mall, reuse, and work integration) are used to analyze the management of a reuse-based mall. Despite the mall’s success in getting sufficient donations and creating publicity, it has struggled to establish itself as viable reuse-based fashion retail. The findings illustrate the complexity created by the interplay of different logics and how the complexity influences both the daily and strategic management of the mall. Further, the outcome of this interplay depends largely on which rationality is enacted by involved actors. The study also extends literature on institutional logics, showing that differences in individual actors’ attention, knowledge, skills, coordination, and material conditions influence how logics are enacted and managed. We suggest that there are inherent managerial contradictions in the sustainable practices in fashion retail. Thus, in scholarly conversations, it is important to discuss what different divergent sustainability dimensions imply when seeking solutions for sustainable retail. In practice, there is a need to acknowledge and balance the presence of multiple logics, making it crucial to have competence in all logics. Also, managers of reuse-based fashion retail must consciously and continuously scrutinize their own strategies and actions to avoid an imbalance between the logics.

Keywords
Sustainable fashion retail, institutional logics, management of fashion reuse, multiple logics, circular fashion supply chain
National Category
Economics and Business
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General); Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-21865 (URN)10.1080/09593969.2019.1667855 (DOI)000492436900001 ()2-s2.0-85074040612 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2019-10-18 Created: 2019-10-18 Last updated: 2020-01-29Bibliographically approved
Hedegård, L. (2019). Sustainability in talk and practice – the organization and function of sustainability in local circular retailing. In: : . Paper presented at FEKIS ämneskonferens 2019, Gävle, 16-17 oktober, 2019..
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Sustainability in talk and practice – the organization and function of sustainability in local circular retailing
2019 (English)Conference paper, Oral presentation only (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

Circular economy and re-circulation of products are two reoccurring themes in the scholarly debate about the future of sustainable retailing. There are several examples of stakeholders like retailers, NGOs, charity organizations and municipalities as well as  researchers that try to find functional retail models based on product re-circulation. Many of these initiatives, and the idea of product re-circulation per se, is often motivated with sustainability as the main ar­gument, i.e. that it decreases the production and consumption of new products, and hence re­duces the negative environmental impact. Earlier research in product re-circulation have mostly focused on development of business models, how it practically can be organized and consumer’s attitudes and behaviors in relation to the concept. However, how sustainability is translated into everyday practices in such initiatives is seldom examined. Hence, this paper aims at providing the understanding of how a sustainability discourse is implemented into talk and actions in a re-circulation initiative and what the implementation entails. This study em­ploys an actor-network theory (ANT) perspective and is based on qualitative data gathered through interviews and observations of everyday practices at a reuse-based shopping mall, ReTuna, in Sweden. Findings demonstrate that sustainability is elastic in relation to talk and practice, i.e. that there might be differences between a general argumentation and local inter­pretations. Differences that even can result in counterproductive everyday activities. A result of the elasticity is that the implementation of ideas about sustainable retail is more complex to manage than what is often shown. Thus, it is important to organize and operationalize a con­tinuous discussion about what sustainability in product re-circulation-based retail entails. 

Keywords
Sustainable fashion retail, Sustainability, Fashion re-circulation, Circular economy
National Category
Business Administration
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-21921 (URN)
Conference
FEKIS ämneskonferens 2019, Gävle, 16-17 oktober, 2019.
Available from: 2019-11-05 Created: 2019-11-05 Last updated: 2019-11-11Bibliographically approved
Paras, M. K., Hedegård, L., Curteza, A., Pal, R., Chen, Y. & Wang, L. (2019). The study of 3Rs - reuse, repair, and redesign at a Swedish recycling mall. Industria Textila Journal, 554-556
Open this publication in new window or tab >>The study of 3Rs - reuse, repair, and redesign at a Swedish recycling mall
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2019 (English)In: Industria Textila Journal, p. 554-556Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Bucharest: , 2019
Keywords
Upcycling, Redesign, Reuse, repair, Clothes
National Category
Social Sciences
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-22298 (URN)10.35530/IT.070.06.1554 (DOI)000502554400010 ()
Available from: 2019-12-20 Created: 2019-12-20 Last updated: 2020-01-31Bibliographically approved
Hedegård, L., Paras, M. K. & Gustafsson, E. (2016). Contradictions In Reuse-based Fashion Retail - the ReTuna Mall Case. In: GLOBAL FASHION CONFERENCE 2016 STOCKHOLM – SWEDEN: . Paper presented at Global Fashion, Stockholm, October 20-21, 2016.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Contradictions In Reuse-based Fashion Retail - the ReTuna Mall Case
2016 (English)In: GLOBAL FASHION CONFERENCE 2016 STOCKHOLM – SWEDEN, 2016Conference paper, Published paper (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to describe and analyse the management of a novel commercial fashion retail concept – a shopping mall based on reuse and a local circular fashion supply chain – with the aim of identifying potential strategic issues with the concept.

Design/methodology/approach

This is an explorative case study, based on observations and interviews with shop managers, employees and the mall management.

Findings

The reuse concept strongly influences the mall's strategy, and the sourcing process is a key factor. The local reuse-based fashion supply chain follows the typical reuse process, but this study shows that the business logic that underpins the commercial strategy is not in line with the reuse and social enterprise ethoses that the mall ostensibly follows.

Research limitations/implications

This study illustrates the difficulties inherent in organising a reuse-based mall due to the need to combine a commercial strategy, a local and circular fashion supply chain, and a social enterprise ethic.

Practical implications

The findings highlight the mall management's responsibility for the sourcing of goods, the need for a closer cooperation between mall management and tenants in a reuse-based mall, and the need for competence in terms of reuse, fashion, and retail in order for the concept to be developed further.

Originality/value

ReTuna represents a new fashion retail phenomenon – the reuse-based shopping mall – that has not been studied yet.

Keywords

Fashion retail, textile reuse, clothing reuse, mall management, fashion supply chain, recycling, sustainability, circular supply chain.

Article classification

Research paper

Keywords
Mall management, Textile reuse, Textile recycling, Clothes Reuse, Fashion Supply Chain, Recycling, Sustainability, Circular Supply Chain, Retail
National Category
Social Sciences
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-11063 (URN)978-989-20-7053-7 (ISBN)
Conference
Global Fashion, Stockholm, October 20-21, 2016
Available from: 2017-01-04 Created: 2016-10-24 Last updated: 2018-08-20Bibliographically approved
Hedegård, L. (2016). Re – ett prefix som förändrar klädhandeln?. Högskolan i Borås: Högskolan i Borås
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Re – ett prefix som förändrar klädhandeln?
2016 (Swedish)Report (Refereed)
Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Högskolan i Borås: Högskolan i Borås, 2016
Series
Vetenskap för profession: rapport, ISSN 1654-6520 ; 37
Keywords
Re, Återbruk, Modehandel
National Category
Social Sciences
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-22297 (URN)978-91-88269-22-5 (ISBN)
Available from: 2019-12-20 Created: 2019-12-20 Last updated: 2019-12-20Bibliographically approved
Persson, N.-K., Baghaei, B., Bashir, T., Brorström, B., Hedegård, L., Carlson Ingdahl, T., . . . Åkesson, D. (2016). Re: en ny samhällssektor spirar. Borås: Högskolan i Borås
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Re: en ny samhällssektor spirar
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2016 (Swedish)Report (Other academic)
Abstract [sv]

Resurser och hållbarhet är nära förknippade. Hållbarhet innebär att hushålla med resurser - materiella, miljömässiga och mänskliga. Och hushållning är per definition kärnan i ekonomi. Man börjar alltmer se framväxten av en hel arsenal av verktyg och förhållnings- och angreppssätt för att bygga hållbarhet. Detta förenas av ett synsätt att det som hitintills setts  om avfall och värdelöst, och rent utav besvärligt att ta hand om, nu blir en värdefull resurs. Det glömda och gömda kommer åter. Faktum är att många ord och begrepp kring detta börjar på just åter- eller re- . Internationellt talar man om Redesign, Recycling, Remake, Recycle, Recraft, Reuse, Recreate, Reclaim, Reduce, Repair, Refashion.

Vad är då allt detta? Ja, vill man dra det långt, är det inte mindre än framväxten av ett nyvunnet sätt att tänka, ja av en ny samhällssektor, en bransch och en industri,  sammanbundet av filosofin att återanvändningen, spillminskningen, vidarebruket, efterlivet anses som viktiga faktorer för ett miljömedvetet samhälle. Re: blir paraplytermen för detta. I denna antologi av forskare från skilda discipliner vid Högskolan i Borås lyfts ett antal av dessa begrepp inom Re: fram.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Borås: Högskolan i Borås, 2016. p. 80
Series
Vetenskap för profession: rapport, ISSN 1654-6520 ; 37
National Category
Other Social Sciences
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-10004 (URN)978-91-88269-22-5 (ISBN)978-91-88269-23-2 (ISBN)
Available from: 2016-06-09 Created: 2016-06-09 Last updated: 2018-08-20Bibliographically approved
Kumar Paras, M., Hedegård, L. & Curteza, A. (2016). ReTuna Recycling Mall: Reuse based Circular Fashion Supply Chain Management. In: : . Paper presented at Inventica 2016.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>ReTuna Recycling Mall: Reuse based Circular Fashion Supply Chain Management
2016 (English)Conference paper, Poster (with or without abstract) (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

The shopping mall concept has emerged to provide unique mall profiles to satisfy consumers who search for the ultimate shopping experience. Under one roof different sellers are assembled together with food outlets and entertainment to full fill the requirements of consumers.Gradually an awareness of over consumption has raised together with calls for reuse activities that reduce the consumption of new products. As an answer to this problem a shopping mall for sustainable practice and reuse: ReTuna, has been developed in Eskilstuna, Sweden.This study has been undertaken to understand the practice of ReTuna and the local based circular fashion supply chain that it incorporates. Still in its beginning ReTuna is indeed a revolutionary concept to enhance the practice of reuse.

Keywords
Reuse, Shopping mall, Fashion Supply Chain Management
National Category
Social Sciences
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-10672 (URN)
Conference
Inventica 2016
Available from: 2016-09-09 Created: 2016-09-09 Last updated: 2016-11-01Bibliographically approved
Paras, M. K., Lars, H., Pal, R. & Curteza, A. (2016). ReTuna: The Recycling Mall. In: ReTuna: The Recycling Mall: . Paper presented at INVENT-INVEST 2016, Romania, September 15-18, 2016..
Open this publication in new window or tab >>ReTuna: The Recycling Mall
2016 (English)In: ReTuna: The Recycling Mall, 2016Conference paper, Poster (with or without abstract) (Other academic) [Artistic work]
Abstract [en]

This study has been undertaken to understand the practice of ReTuna. This has been done through two phases: In the first phase backend operations have been studied by visiting collecting and sorting facilities and interviewing mall management. In the second phase each mall tenants have been studied and interviewed. After each interview data has been analysed and follow up interview were done to strengthen the information. The study shows that the reuse mall has been established near a recycling centre to promote the concept of reuse. Instead of disposing of goods to incineration, Citizens are encouraged to donate the goods to the mall. The collected products are sorted on the basis of type by mall employees and kept at different designated location of each tenants in line with their contract. Employees of the tenants visit the warehouse to receive and sort their assigned goods according to conditions and product categories. Some of the tenants have facilities to re-design, repair and wash the garments to improve the functionality of products. The mall management is doing efforts to increase the number of upcycling activities that the tenants perform to increase the value of the reused goods. The reuse mall also provides workshop and laboratory space to college involved in the education of reuse and re-design. Students of the college experiment with donated goods to redesign new products. 

National Category
Economics and Business
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-10726 (URN)
Conference
INVENT-INVEST 2016, Romania, September 15-18, 2016.
Projects
SMDTex
Funder
EU, European Research Council
Available from: 2016-09-21 Created: 2016-09-21 Last updated: 2017-05-02Bibliographically approved
Hedegård, L., Nordhill Edlund, M., Gutfelt, K., Larsson, G., Lindahl, E., Proohf, A.-K. & Svensson, C. (2012). Att använda dator- och filmbaserat stöd vid praktisk undervisning. In: Langelotz Lill, Johansson Kristina (Ed.), PUH - Pedagogiska utvecklingsprojekt i högskolan: ett samarbete mellan Västra Götalands högskolor (pp. 193-208). Borås: Högskolan i Borås
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Att använda dator- och filmbaserat stöd vid praktisk undervisning
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2012 (Swedish)In: PUH - Pedagogiska utvecklingsprojekt i högskolan: ett samarbete mellan Västra Götalands högskolor / [ed] Langelotz Lill, Johansson Kristina, Borås: Högskolan i Borås, 2012, p. 193-208Chapter in book (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
Abstract [sv]

Konfektionskollegiet vid Textilhögskolan erhöll under läsåret 2010/11medel från Centrum för lärande undervisning (CLU) vid Högskolan iBorås för att genomföra ett pedagogiskt utvecklingsprojekt. Projektethandlade om att skapa och använda dator- och filmbaserade läromedelsom stöd till praktisk undervisning. Rapporten bygger på de två delprojektendär film- respektive datorbaserat läromedel skapats och använts,ett besök vid Heriot Watt University samt intervjuer med personer somarbetat med film och undervisning i olika former. Målet med projektetvar att skapa en vägledning för att underlätta arbetet med film- och datorbaseradeläromedel vid praktisk undervisning och bilaga I återfinns enlathund till stöd för fortsatt arbete.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Borås: Högskolan i Borås, 2012
Series
Rapport från Västra Götalands högskolor, ISSN 1653-1396 ; 10
National Category
Pedagogy
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-10601 (URN)
Available from: 2016-08-25 Created: 2016-08-25 Last updated: 2018-04-28Bibliographically approved
Hedegård, L., Mouwitz, P. & Häggström, E. (2011). Hållbar utveckling: Hur hållbar utveckling kan integreras i textila kurser. In: Sigrén Peter (Ed.), PUH: Pedagogiska utvecklingsprojekt i högskolan 2011: (pp. 37-58). Borås: Högskolan i Borås
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Hållbar utveckling: Hur hållbar utveckling kan integreras i textila kurser
2011 (Swedish)In: PUH: Pedagogiska utvecklingsprojekt i högskolan 2011 / [ed] Sigrén Peter, Borås: Högskolan i Borås, 2011, p. 37-58Chapter in book (Other (popular science, discussion, etc.))
Abstract [sv]

Som lärare vid Textilhögskolan, Högskolan i Borås upplever vi ett tryck och ett önskemål från flera håll om ett ökat inslag av hållbar utveckling i undervisningen och studenternas utbildning. Från regeringen och högskolansledning finns uttalade krav i t.ex. Högskoleförordningen, Högskolans policy för hållbar utveckling samt i den miljöutredning som genomfördes 2009 att perspektivet ska beaktas vid planering och genomförandeav undervisning. Studenterna vid Textilhögskolan efterfrågar å sin sida en ökad diskussion om hållbar utveckling i de kurser de läser. Högskolans miljöutredning 2009/10 visar också på ett lågt inslag av hållbarutveckling i Textilhögskolans kurser och i flera av kurserna finns inget alls. För den enskilda läraren medför kraven på ökat inslag av hållbarutveckling två frågor att ta ställning till: Vad innebär hållbar utveckling imin kurs och hur ska det implementeras i min kurs?

I vårt pedagogiska utvecklingsprojekt närmar vi oss de två frågornagenom att reda ut:

  • Vilka riktlinjer och styrdokument finns för hållbar utvecklingvid Textilhögskolan- Hur hållbar utveckling kan definieras inom textil- och modeindustrin.
  • Vad utmärker utbildning inom hållbar utveckling utifrån ett pedagogiskt perspektiv.
  • Hur kopplas undervisning och lärandemål till hållbar utveckling idag för Modedesignprogrammet och Textilingenjörutbildningen.
  • Vad önskvärd progression är och hur lärandemål för hållbarutveckling kan se ut.

Resultatet av vårt arbete är ett förslag på modell på progression inomhållbar utveckling för två av Textilhögskolans utbildningar, förslag på lärandemål inom hållbar utveckling för dessa utbildningar, exempel på läraktiviteter inom hållbar utveckling i fyra kurser samt åtta nyckelfaktorer för en lyckad integrering.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Borås: Högskolan i Borås, 2011
Series
Rapport från Västra Götalands högskolor, ISSN 1653-1396 ; 9
National Category
Pedagogy
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-10605 (URN)
Available from: 2016-08-25 Created: 2016-08-25 Last updated: 2018-04-28Bibliographically approved
Organisations
Identifiers
ORCID iD: ORCID iD iconorcid.org/0000-0002-0018-1185

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