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Paras, M. K., Curteza, A., Pal, R., Wang, L. & Chen, Y. (2019). A Romanian case study of clothes and accessories upcycling. Industria textila, 70(3), 285-290
Open this publication in new window or tab >>A Romanian case study of clothes and accessories upcycling
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2019 (English)In: Industria textila, Vol. 70, no 3, p. 285-290Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

The present paper aims to investigate the practice of upcycling and redesign. The study draws on the multiple organizations involved in the redesigning activities. The organizations selected for the study are located in the northern part of Romania. Semi-structured interviews along with direct observations were used to collect information. The paper provides practical insights to upcycling process.Various kinds of redesigned products are made out of consumer and industrial wastes such as redesigned clothes, accessories for ladies, handbags, ladies purses and office stationery. Upcycling is generally considered as economically non-feasible. However, this study has found contradictory results. The demand-based redesign activities can help an organization to earn a profit. Two out of three selected organizations are able to self-sustain. One of the organizations is newly entered into the Romanian used clothing markets and ables to compete with existing players. This study could be seen as one of the early attempts to empirically explore the practice of textile and accessories upcycling practice in Eastern Europe. The findings from the current case study can provide several useful insights for other similar companies to make redesign activities profitable.

Keywords
upcycling, redesign, clothes, leather, accessories
National Category
Economics and Business
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General); Business and IT
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-21871 (URN)10.35530/IT.070.03.1500 (DOI)
Projects
SMDTex
Available from: 2019-10-20 Created: 2019-10-20 Last updated: 2019-10-21Bibliographically approved
Hedegård, L., Gustafsson, E. & Paras, M. K. (2019). MANAGEMENT OF SUSTAINABLE FASHION RETAIL BASED ON REUSE – A STRUGGLE WITH MULTIPLE LOGICS. In: : . Paper presented at 19th World Textile Conference - Autex 2019 - Textiles at the crossroads, June 11-15, 2019..
Open this publication in new window or tab >>MANAGEMENT OF SUSTAINABLE FASHION RETAIL BASED ON REUSE – A STRUGGLE WITH MULTIPLE LOGICS
2019 (English)Conference paper, Poster (with or without abstract) (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

Reuse is a strategy to render fashion retail sustainable and an example is the take-back schemes established by international retailers. Managerial aspects are important in a reuse system, but management issues have seldom been studied. Accordingly, empirical investigations of the management of reuse systems are needed. Hence, the purpose of this study is to show the complexity in the management of fashion-retail based on reuse by identifying and explaining obstacles in the process. This is achieved by an analyze of ReTuna, a shopping mall based on reuse, from the perspective of institutional logics. ReTuna opened in 2015 and consists of approximately fourteen stores. The shops at ReTuna sell reused products, but this unconventional sourcing of goods aside, ReTuna aims to be a traditional mall. Most shops are staffed by the owner(s) and in some cases an employee. Garments and textiles that are sold origins from donations that are collected by the mall. The case illustrates the complexity, as it failed in establishing reuse-based fashion retail, despite its success in achieving enough donations and creating publicity. The analysis shows that the goal of re-circulating fashion is hindered by actors not being able to equally integrate the divergent sustainability dimensions in the mall owner’s goals. The obstacles are a result of the actors prioritizing the logics differently at the same time as not being able to fulfill the demands of the logics due to a lack of knowledge, experience and skills, and coordination.

Keywords
Management of fashion reuse, Sustainable fashion retail, Institutional logics, Circular fashion
National Category
Economics and Business
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-21866 (URN)
Conference
19th World Textile Conference - Autex 2019 - Textiles at the crossroads, June 11-15, 2019.
Available from: 2019-10-18 Created: 2019-10-18 Last updated: 2019-10-18Bibliographically approved
Hedegård, L., Gustafsson, E. & Paras, M. K. (2019). Management of sustainable fashion retail based on reuse: A struggle with multiple logics. The International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Management of sustainable fashion retail based on reuse: A struggle with multiple logics
2019 (English)In: The International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research, ISSN 0959-3969Article in journal (Refereed) Epub ahead of print
Abstract [en]

In scholarly conversations, reuse is one of the common suggested strategies to render fashion retail sustainable. Previous research has stressed the complexity of fashion reuse and the importance of a well-organized system. The complexity stems from processes that involve many actors as well as products hard to evaluate. Consequently, it is challenging to organize reuse-based fashion retail, and studies are needed to further develop knowledge regarding how to manage such systems. Hence, the purpose of this paper is to highlight the complexity in the management of such an initiative, by identifying and explaining obstacles as well as implications. With institutional logics as a framework, three local logics (shopping mall, reuse, and work integration) are used to analyze the management of a reuse-based mall. Despite the mall’s success in getting sufficient donations and creating publicity, it has struggled to establish itself as viable reuse-based fashion retail. The findings illustrate the complexity created by the interplay of different logics and how the complexity influences both the daily and strategic management of the mall. Further, the outcome of this interplay depends largely on which rationality is enacted by involved actors. The study also extends literature on institutional logics, showing that differences in individual actors’ attention, knowledge, skills, coordination, and material conditions influence how logics are enacted and managed. We suggest that there are inherent managerial contradictions in the sustainable practices in fashion retail. Thus, in scholarly conversations, it is important to discuss what different divergent sustainability dimensions imply when seeking solutions for sustainable retail. In practice, there is a need to acknowledge and balance the presence of multiple logics, making it crucial to have competence in all logics. Also, managers of reuse-based fashion retail must consciously and continuously scrutinize their own strategies and actions to avoid an imbalance between the logics.

Keywords
Sustainable fashion retail, institutional logics, management of fashion reuse, multiple logics, circular fashion supply chain
National Category
Economics and Business
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General); Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-21865 (URN)10.1080/09593969.2019.1667855 (DOI)
Available from: 2019-10-18 Created: 2019-10-18 Last updated: 2019-10-18Bibliographically approved
Pal, R., Sandberg, E. & Paras, M. K. (2019). Multidimensional value creation through different reverse supply chain relationships in used clothing sector. Supply chain management, 24(6), 729-747
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Multidimensional value creation through different reverse supply chain relationships in used clothing sector
2019 (English)In: Supply chain management, ISSN 1359-8546, E-ISSN 1758-6852, Vol. 24, no 6, p. 729-747Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Purpose

This paper aims to purport deeper understanding of, and instigate theoretical elaboration to, multidimensional value created through different reverse supply chain (RSC) relationships.

Design/methodology/approach

By capturing the relationships (and their differences) constituted and embedded in three “extreme” case studies from global used clothing supply chain, the sources of multidimensional values are explored in line with Dyer and Singh’s (1998) relational theory.

Findings

In the RSC, when downstream relationships are typically more opportunistic, value is created using inter-personal ways of knowledge sharing and through use of informal safeguards. In contrast, the upstream RSC relationships are more symbiotic, and value is created through more seamless (and routinized) knowledge sharing practices, and additional use of more formal transaction-specific controls or financial incentives as safeguarding instruments.

Research limitations/implications

The use of consolidated case studies may affect the consistency in the findings presented. Another limitation relates to deriving propositions per each source presented in relational theory.

Practical implications

Practitioners particularly from industries whose global RSCs include different natures of relationships and multiple value incentives can be benefited through this study.

Originality/value

The paper extends the original sources of value creation prescribed in relational theory by contextualizing them in RSCs. It depicts how multidimensional values are created relationally by dyadic partners as the nature of relationship differs between upstream and downstream.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Emerald Group Publishing Limited, 2019
Keywords
Clothing, Case study, Value creation, Global supply chain, Reverse supply chain, Relational theory
National Category
Economics and Business
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General); Business and IT
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-21915 (URN)10.1108/SCM-12-2018-0422 (DOI)
Projects
Re:Textile II
Funder
Region Västra Götaland
Available from: 2019-11-01 Created: 2019-11-01 Last updated: 2019-11-11Bibliographically approved
Paras, M. K., Wang, L., Chen, Y., Curteza, A., Pal, R. & Ekwall, D. (2018). A Sustainable Application Based on Grouping Genetic Algorithm for Modularized Redesign Model in Apparel Reverse Supply Chain. Sustainability, 10(9), Article ID 3013.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>A Sustainable Application Based on Grouping Genetic Algorithm for Modularized Redesign Model in Apparel Reverse Supply Chain
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2018 (English)In: Sustainability, ISSN 2071-1050, E-ISSN 2071-1050, Vol. 10, no 9, article id 3013Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

The scarcity of natural resources and the problem of pollution have initiated the need for extending the life and use of existing products. The concept of the reverse supply chain provides an opportunity to recover value from discarded products. The potential for recovery and the improvement of value in the reverse supply chain of apparel has been barely studied. In this research, a novel modularized redesign model is developed and applied to the garment redesign process. The concept of modularization is used to extract parts from the end-of-use or end-of-life of products. The extracted parts are reassembled or reconstructed with the help of a proposed group genetic algorithm by using domain and industry-specific knowledge. Design fitness is calculated to achieve the optimal redesign. Subsequently, the practical relevance of the model is investigated with the help of an industrial case in Sweden. The case study finding reveals that the proposed method and model to calculate the design fitness could simplify the redesign process. The design fitness calculation is illustrated with the example of a polo t-shirt. The redesigned system-based modularization is in accordance with the practical situations because of its flexibility and viability to formulate redesign decisions. The grouping genetic algorithm could enable fast redesign decisions for designers.

Keywords
reuse design, upcycling, modularization, garment industry, sustainability
National Category
Business Administration
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15090 (URN)10.3390/su10093013 (DOI)000446770200056 ()2-s2.0-85052309286 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2018-09-11 Created: 2018-09-11 Last updated: 2018-11-26Bibliographically approved
Paras, M. K., Ekwall, D., Pal, R., Curteza, A., Chen, Y. & Wang, L. (2018). An Exploratory Study of Swedish Charities to Develop a Model for the Reuse-Based Clothing Value Chain. Sustainability, 10(4), Article ID 1176.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>An Exploratory Study of Swedish Charities to Develop a Model for the Reuse-Based Clothing Value Chain
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2018 (English)In: Sustainability, ISSN 2071-1050, E-ISSN 2071-1050, Vol. 10, no 4, article id 1176Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

The present paper aims to explore the current clothes reuse business in order to develop a charity-driven model for the reuse-based clothing value chain. An exploratory study was carried out in Sweden to understand the business flow of clothes reuse. This study builds on the insights gained from the multiple charities involved in the reuse-based clothing value chain. Semi-structured interviews along with direct and participatory observation were used for data collection. In the current study of Swedish charities, the founders and senior managers of the organizations were interviewed. This paper provides several insights in the form of propositions and a model related to different drivers of the reuse-based clothing value chain. In this model, business factors (system, legislation, and awareness), product factors (design, quality, and price), and consumer attitude as donor/buyer are found to be key drivers. Product design, quality, and price depend upon clothes brand, construction, and material, which are collectively important for the sale of used products. In the future, researchers are encouraged to test the present set of propositions and the proposed model across different cultural settings. The model can serve as a framework for practitioners and will be helpful for designing business strategies based on the different factors identified in this study.

Keywords
reverse value chain, apparel supply chain, clothes reuse, closed loop, charity driven
National Category
Business Administration
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15087 (URN)10.3390/su10041176 (DOI)000435188000280 ()2-s2.0-85045460468 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2018-09-11 Created: 2018-09-11 Last updated: 2018-09-11Bibliographically approved
Paras, M. K. (2018). Application of fuzzy technique for closed loop decision in clothing value chain. International journal of value chain management, 9(2), 105-121
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Application of fuzzy technique for closed loop decision in clothing value chain
2018 (English)In: International journal of value chain management, ISSN 1741-5357, E-ISSN 1741-5365, Vol. 9, no 2, p. 105-121Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Increasing concern over the environment has encouraged consumer and industry to think about the huge amount of discarded clothes. This study has considered four methods: direct reuse, up-cycling, down-cycling and incineration to close the loop of clothing value chain. Three factors (material, economy and technology) affecting closed loop decision have been identified. These factors have a different degree of influences on the decision making the process of closed loop clothing value chain. Research data has been collected from the reverse logistic experts from clothing industry. The fuzzy technique has been used to quantify the response of experts. Findings have been analysed with the help of analytic hierarchy process technique. The material factor is found to dominating factor in the closed loop decisions over economy and technology. Up-cycling and direct reuse emerged to be the best alternatives in the current scenario. The clothing companies may replicate this approach of developing hierarchy model to choose best alternatives for the closed loop value chain.

Keywords
closed loop chain, clothing value chain, reuse, fuzzy technique, analytic hierarchy process, AHP
National Category
Business Administration
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15092 (URN)10.1504/IJVCM.2018.092384 (DOI)
Available from: 2018-09-11 Created: 2018-09-11 Last updated: 2018-09-11Bibliographically approved
Paras, M. K., Ekwall, D. & Pal, R. (2018). Developing a framework for the performance evaluation of sorting and grading firms of used clothing. Journal of Global Operations and Strategic Sourcing
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Developing a framework for the performance evaluation of sorting and grading firms of used clothing
2018 (English)In: Journal of Global Operations and Strategic Sourcing, ISSN 2398-5364Article in journal (Refereed) Epub ahead of print
Abstract [en]

Purpose

This paper aims to propose a framework for evaluating the performance of reverse value chain activities in the clothing industry operating at base of the pyramid. Specifically, the research explores firm and supply chain factors influencing clothing reverse value chain activities with a focus on developing economies.

Design/methodology/approach

The study adopted an explorative technique using direct observations and semi-structured interviews to collect information from eight companies and two traders. Internal resources and value chain capabilities were examined using theoretical underpinnings of resource-based view, transaction cost economics and base of the pyramid.

Findings

The paper identified multiple benefits of offshoring reverse value chain activities to the developing countries (at the base of the pyramid). Low operation cost, skilled manpower, business knowledge and location are found to be internal success factors. While favourable government legislation and domestic recycling markets are important external factors contributing to the success. Developing economies such as India contribute to firm performance by integrating, transforming, acquiring and co-creating the resources at base of the pyramid. Further, it was found that to achieve higher assets specificity, a few companies have opened their own shops in African countries, while others have opened sourcing branches in Canada or the USA to ensure good quality of raw materials. Collaboration and coordination among different value chain partners minimise cost and increases profitability. Innovation in the process such as clothes mutilation for recycling has created new business opportunities.

Research limitations/implications

Information was collected from only eight organisations and two traders from India. Future scholars may extend the research to generalise the findings by documenting similar phenomena.

Practical implications

The proposed framework can serve a basis for the practitioners to evaluate firm performance, and the insights can be used to achieve sustainability by engaging producers, employees, consumers and community using base of the pyramid approach.

Originality/value

The study provides unique insights into the prevalent export and re-exports phenomena of used clothing. The resource-based view, transaction cost economics and base of the pyramid strategy underpinned together to develop a framework for understanding reverse value chain activities of clothing.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Emerald Group Publishing Limited, 2018
Keywords
Qualitative, Clothing industry, Base of the pyramid, Firms performance framework, Sorting and grading, Reverse value chain
National Category
Economics and Business
Research subject
Business and IT; Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15467 (URN)10.1108/JGOSS-11-2017-0047 (DOI)2-s2.0-85055088071 (Scopus ID)
Projects
Erasmus Mundus joint doctoral programme (SMDTex)” funded by the European Commission
Available from: 2018-12-15 Created: 2018-12-15 Last updated: 2019-01-03Bibliographically approved
Paras, M. K. (2018). Reuse-based Reverse Value Chain for Sustainable Apparel Industry. (Doctoral dissertation). Borås: Högskolan i Borås
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Reuse-based Reverse Value Chain for Sustainable Apparel Industry
2018 (English)Doctoral thesis, monograph (Other academic)
Alternative title[sv]
Återanvändningsbaserad omvänd värdekedja för hållbar klädindustri
Abstract [en]

The reverse value chain is a concept that maximizes the utility of a product after end-of-life or end-of-use. Its main components are reuse, repair, up-cycling and down-cycling. This thesis has investigated the business of apparel ‘reuse’ to develop a reuse-based reverse value chain model for apparel industry. The research began by understanding the existing theory of reverse value chain. The theory includes a literature review of the value chain from the apparel industry as well as from the other industries. A conceptual framework has been developed by considering processes of reverse value chain such as collection, sorting and reprocessing.

Consequently, the thesis has undertaken a mix method (qualitative and quantitative) approach to study the reuse-based reverse value chain. An exploratory method based on multiple case studies has been adopted to explore the current sustainable practices of apparel reuse. Organizations were visited and unstructured interviews were conducted with founder and senior managers. The results have been utilized to develop an empirical model from the current practices of collection, sorting, and reprocessing. Qualitative findings highlight that higher economic recovery depends upon efficient reprocessing and collaborations with different stakeholders of the reverse value chain of apparel. Thus, an efficient resource recovery is economical as well as environmentally sustainable. Engagement of marginalized and vulnerable sections of society in the reverse value chain of apparel contributes towards social sustainability.

The empirical model was further strengthened by mathematical model formulation. Analytical hierarchy process, Genetic algorithm and Markov principle have been used for the analysis of reuse-based reverse value chain. The thesis provides theoretical contribution, implications and ways to improve the current practice of apparel reuse along with providing scope for future research.

Abstract [sv]

Den omvända värdekedjan är ett koncept som maximerar nyttan av en produkt efter uttjänt eller slutförd användning. Huvudkomponenterna är återanvändning, reparation, uppcykling (materialet återanvänds på ett stärkande sätt) och nedcykling (materialet återanvänds men med försämrad funktion). Denna avhandling fokuserar på kläderans "återanvändning", i perspektivet från en återanvändningsbaserad värdekedja för klädindustrin. Forskningsprocessen startade med en litteraturstudie, både inom och utanför klädindustrin. Vidare utvecklades ett konceptuellt ramverk genom att fokusera på processtegen insamling, sortering och upparbetning inom en omvänd värdekedja.

Avhandlingen är genomförd med blandmetodik (både kvalitativ och kvantitativ) för att studera en återanvändningsbaserad omvänd värdekedja. Avhandlingen är genomförd i flera olika fallstudier för att bättre kunna undersöka dagens hållbara metoder för återanvändning av kläder. Metoder som har används är studiebesök samt intervjustudier av ledare samt medarbetare i relevanta organisationer. Resultaten från de olika studierna har används för att utveckal en empirisk modell för att analysera dagens metoder för insamling, sortering och upparbetning. Ett resultat är att samverkan mellan olika aktörer in den omvända värdekedjan, tillsammans kan skapa ett högre återvunnit ekonomisk värde än det annars skulle kunna. Således är en effektiv resursåterställning möjlig att åstadkomma ur både ekonomisk och miljömässigt hållbar synvikel.

Vidare så verifierades den empiriska modellen genom användandet av matematisk modellformulering. I detta arbete har Analytisk hierarkiprocess, genetisk algoritm och Markov-principen används som analysgrund inom ramen för en omvänd värdekedja. Avhandlingen ger bidrag till nuvarande forskningsläge genom att visa på konsekvenser samt ge praktiska förbättringsförslag på nuvarande praxisen av återanvändning av kläder. Avhandlingen avslutas med att presentera förslag på framtida forskning och vidare studier.

Abstract [ro]

Lanțul valoric inversat este un concept care exploatează la maxim utilitatea unui produs, atât înainte cât și după sfârșitul vieții acestuia. Principalele verigi ale lanțului sunt reparația și reutilizarea creativă prin îmbunătățirea produsului și reutilizarea componentelor acestuia după dezasamblarea lui. Aceast studiu analizează domeniul de afaceri care se ocupă cu „reutilizarea” articolelor de îmbrăcăminte. Scopul este de a crea un model de lanț valoric inversat bazat pe refolosirea confecțiilor textile care va putea fi folosit în industria de confecții textile. Activitatea de cercetare a început cu înțelegerea teoriei lanțului valoric inversat prin parcurgerea și analiza literaturii de specialitate care face trimitere atât la industria textilă cât și la alte ramuri de activitate. S-a dezvoltat un cadru conceptual luând în considerare unele procese proprii lanțului valoric inversat cum ar fi colectarea, sortarea și reprocesarea.

Prin urmare, s-a abordat o metodă mixtă (calitativă și cantitativă) pentru a studia lanțul valoric inversat bazat pe reutilizare. Metoda investigativă fundamentată pe studiul de cazuri multiple a fost pusă în practică pentru a cerceta refolosirea viabilă a confecțiilor textile. S-au vizitat organizații și s-au realizat interviuri nestructurate cu fondatori și responsabili de rang înalt. Rezultatele au fost utilizate pentru a dezvolta un model inspirat din practica curentă de colectare, sortare și reprocesare. Constatările calitative evidențiază faptul că o redresare economică mai mare depinde de reprelucrarea eficientă și de colaborările cu diferiți parteneri ai lanțului de valori inverse de îmbrăcăminte. Astfel, o recuperare eficientă a resurselor este economică și totodată durabilă din punct de vedere ecologic. Implicarea secțiunilor marginalizate și vulnerabile ale societății în lanțul de valori inverse de îmbrăcăminte contribuie la sustenabilitatea socială.

Modelul empiric a fost consolidate suplimentar cu ajutorul unui model matematic teoretic. Procesul analitic de ierarhizare, algoritmul genetic și principiul lui Markov au fost folosite pentru analizarea lanțului valoric inversat bazat pe refolosire. Lucrarea se încheie cu precizarea contribuției teoretice, a implicațiilor și a modalităților de îmbunătățire a modelului propus. De asemenea, sunt furnizate obiective pentru activitatea de cercetare ulterioară.

Abstract [zh]

逆向价值链是指在产品生命终结或者使用终结之后最大化产品效用的概念。其主要构成要素为再使用,修复,上行循环和下行循环。本文通过调查服装“再利用”的业务,为服装行业建立基于再利用的逆向价值链模型。该研究始于对现有逆向价值链理论的理解,其中包括对服装行业以及其他行业价值链理论观点的综述分析。本文通过对逆向价值链的过程(如收集,分类和再加工)进行研究,以建立一个概念性框架。

因此,本文采取了定性和定量相结合的方法,来研究基于再利用的逆向价值链。一种基于多元案例的调研方法被应用于当前服装再利用的实践研究,主要通过对企业组织进行参访以及与创始人和高级管理人员进行非结构化访谈。此研究的结果被用于从当前的收集,分类和再加工实践中开发出经验模型。定性研究结果凸显出,更高效的经济复苏一定程度上取决于有效的再加工以及与服装逆向价值链上的不同利益相关者的合作。因此,有效的资源回收需要既经济又环保。同时,在服装的逆向价值链中,残疾人、酗酒者、囚犯和贫困者等边缘化群体的参与有助于社会可持续化。

数学模型的建立进一步强化了经验模型。其中,层次分析法,遗传算法和马尔可夫原理被运用于对基于再利用的逆向价值链过程的分析中。本文在为改善目前的服装再利用实践,以及为未来的研究空间贡献了一定的理论、方法和意义。

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Borås: Högskolan i Borås, 2018. p. 194
Keywords
Reverse value chain, Reuse, Value creation, Apparel industry, Second hand clothing, Omvänd värdekedja, Återanvändning, Värdetillverkning, Klädindustri, Second-hand kläder
National Category
Economics and Business
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (General)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15088 (URN)978-91-88838-06-3 (ISBN)
Public defence
2018-10-02, Styrelserummet, The Faculty of Textiles-Leather and Industrial Management, Iasi, Rumänien, 10:00 (English)
Opponent
Note

Disputationen startar 09.00 svensk tid och kan följas via länk i sal T369, Högskolan i Borås

Available from: 2018-09-11 Created: 2018-09-11 Last updated: 2018-09-11Bibliographically approved
Paras, M. K. & Curteza, A. (2018). Revisiting upcycling phenomena: a concept in clothing industry. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 22(1), 46-58
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Revisiting upcycling phenomena: a concept in clothing industry
2018 (English)In: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, ISSN 1560-6074, Vol. 22, no 1, p. 46-58Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Purpose – The purpose of this study is to review the literature and practice of upcycling. In particular, the objective of this study is threefold: to comprehend the concept of upcycling and, subsequently, understanding the prominent terminologies used in the literature; to understand the process of upcycling and problem associated with it; and to review current literature and practice of upcycling for clothes.

Design/methodology/approach – A scientific literature review procedure proposed by Mayring (2002)was adopted to select and screen the paper that comprises the following steps: material collection, descriptive analysis and material evaluation.

Findings – Upcycling literature has witnessed significant contribution in the past one decade. The paper has identified various terminologies and definitions such as recycling, down-cycling, upcycling and redesign, which are used in the literature.

Research limitations/implications – The present study may help the scholars to understand the current state of literature. A practitioner of upcycling can use the findings to improve and standardise the existing process.

Originality/value – The process of redesigning is one of the important steps in upcycling, which comprises ideation, reconstruction and fitting. The limitation of redesigning is variability in size and pattern. This can be overcome through various techniques such as craftsmanship, time, innovation, provenance, desire and narrative.

Keywords
Literature review, Clothes reuse, Redesigning, Reverse value chain, Upcycling
National Category
Business Administration
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15091 (URN)10.1108/RJTA-03-2017-0011 (DOI)000427271900004 ()
Available from: 2018-09-11 Created: 2018-09-11 Last updated: 2018-09-11Bibliographically approved
Organisations
Identifiers
ORCID iD: ORCID iD iconorcid.org/0000-0001-7193-5362

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