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Malmgren de Oliveira, Stefanie
Publications (10 of 19) Show all publications
Malmgren de Oliveira, S. & Landahl, K. (2024). Expressions of Discarded Design Decisions #6_Diluted Rolling.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Expressions of Discarded Design Decisions #6_Diluted Rolling
2024 (English)Artistic output (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

The artistic outputs focus on similarities between cultures, explorations of artefacts with connotations of cultural translation involving active processes of identification in terms of how materials and expressions are used to create relational aesthetics, and alternative approaches to modernity.  Any further information? : Expressions of Discarded Design Decisions #6_Diluted Rolling consists of post-consumer waste garments selected through the lens of diverse geographic origins of textile patterns. With a majority of the garments being produced by fast fashion companies they are characterized by low quality materials and production methods. But also on a design level, the design decisions taken reflect that of a rapid production approach where expressions of textile patterns are worked in a compromising way and the outcome represents a diluted version of the original pattern. In the video sequence the pattern origins start to blend whilst showcasing similarities through the act of rolling them together. The relations between the diluted expressions of the design materials become apparent. Rather than designing, this work suggests a viewing of post-consumer materials as an act of non-designing. In this moment of pause a space for new streams of thoughts that opens up, inviting for alternative perspectives of reflection.

National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design); Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-31294 (URN)
Available from: 2024-01-11 Created: 2024-01-11 Last updated: 2024-01-11
Landahl, K. & Malmgren de Oliveira, S. (2023). EXPRESSIONS OF DISCARDED DESIGN DECISIONS #3: TO KNOT.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>EXPRESSIONS OF DISCARDED DESIGN DECISIONS #3: TO KNOT
2023 (English)Artistic output (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

Exhibited at Drafts 4.

National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-30725 (URN)
Available from: 2023-04-11 Created: 2023-11-08
Landahl, K. & Malmgren de Oliveira, S. (2023). EXPRESSIONS OF DISCARDED DESIGN DECISIONS #4.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>EXPRESSIONS OF DISCARDED DESIGN DECISIONS #4
2023 (English)Artistic output (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

Exhibited at Drafts 4.

National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-30727 (URN)
Available from: 2023-04-11 Created: 2023-11-08 Last updated: 2024-01-08
Landahl, K. & Malmgren de Oliveira, S. (2023). EXPRESSIONS OF DISCARDED DESIGN DECISIONS #4.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>EXPRESSIONS OF DISCARDED DESIGN DECISIONS #4
2023 (English)Artistic output (Refereed)
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-31132 (URN)
Available from: 2023-04-11 Created: 2024-01-08
Landahl, K. (2023). EXPRESSIONS OF DISCARDED DESIGN DECISIONS #4.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>EXPRESSIONS OF DISCARDED DESIGN DECISIONS #4
2023 (English)Other, Exhibition catalogue (Refereed) [Artistic work]
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-31207 (URN)
Available from: 2023-04-11 Created: 2024-01-10 Last updated: 2024-01-13Bibliographically approved
Malmgren de Oliveira, S. & Landahl, K. (2023). Expressions of discarded design decisions as a reflective tool to rethink fashion education. In: : . Paper presented at DE-FASHIONING EDUCATION, Hybrid Conference, Berlin, Germany, 15 - 16 September, 2023..
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Expressions of discarded design decisions as a reflective tool to rethink fashion education
2023 (English)Conference paper, Oral presentation with published abstract (Refereed) [Artistic work]
National Category
Design
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-30527 (URN)
Conference
DE-FASHIONING EDUCATION, Hybrid Conference, Berlin, Germany, 15 - 16 September, 2023.
Available from: 2023-09-19 Created: 2023-09-19 Last updated: 2023-10-04Bibliographically approved
Malmgren de Oliveira, S. & Landahl, K. (2023). From past to future design decisions: Exploring the garment as instigator of change. In: : . Paper presented at Ara Honohono |Connecting Pathways - 25th Annual IFFTI Conference, Otepoti (Dunedin), Aotearoa (New Zealand) 3-6 April, 2023..
Open this publication in new window or tab >>From past to future design decisions: Exploring the garment as instigator of change
2023 (English)Conference paper, Oral presentation with published abstract (Refereed) [Artistic work]
Abstract [en]

The research project presented in this article investigated the role of the garment as an instigator of change through a series of practice-based experiments. Twenty-five knit garments, which had been discarded due to their being unsellable post-consumer waste materials, were collected and used to explore the potential of past design decisions The group of garments was considered to be a single design material to work with and reflect upon. A data analysis was conducted on the material with regard to fibre composition, colour, production country, structure, and shapes, before a series of experiments was conducted. Rather than being used to create a permanent artefact or a fixed form, the garments remained loose, plastic pieces throughout the research process, in order to be redefined through new actions to lead to the generation of new artefacts. Each experiment in the series ‘Expressions of Discarded Design Decisions’ was documented and numbered before the next was undertaken. Past design decisions, made during the production of garments, present a set of design variables and properties that can be used as a foundation for defining future design decisions. The design examples created as part of this experiment series raise questions, generate knowledge, and stimulate new thoughts in relation to the changing role of the designer and the process of searching for and adapting to new areas. The reflective framework suggested in this article posits the garment as an instigator of change, and has the potential to catalyse new ideas and methods for design practice and pedagogy.  

The result is a shift in perspective from the notion of ‘discarded garments’ to that of ‘discarded design decisions´. This points to the responsibility of the designer and opens up for new possibilities regarding rethinking habitual modes and procedures for new visions, ideas, theories, and practices.

Keywords
fashion design, garment-based learning, post-consumer waste, design decisions, artefact
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-29951 (URN)
Conference
Ara Honohono |Connecting Pathways - 25th Annual IFFTI Conference, Otepoti (Dunedin), Aotearoa (New Zealand) 3-6 April, 2023.
Available from: 2023-06-21 Created: 2023-06-21 Last updated: 2023-06-27Bibliographically approved
Landahl, K. & Malmgren de Oliveira, S. (2022). EXPRESSIONS OF DISCARDED DESIGN DECISIONS #1: TO LAYER.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>EXPRESSIONS OF DISCARDED DESIGN DECISIONS #1: TO LAYER
2022 (English)Artistic output (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

Exhibited at Drafts 3.

National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-29687 (URN)
Available from: 2023-04-11 Created: 2023-04-13 Last updated: 2023-04-14Bibliographically approved
Landahl, K. & Malmgren de Oliveira, S. (2022). Expressions of discarded design decisions #1: to layer. Berlin: Universität der Künste
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Expressions of discarded design decisions #1: to layer
2022 (English)Other, Exhibition catalogue (Refereed) [Artistic work]
Abstract [en]

Exhibited Artefact

Carefully placed on top of each other, the discarded sweaters, devalued and unsellable, pile up into layers of knit, shapes, structures, textures and colours – a mille-feuille of discarded design decisions. In the act of layering, new expressions arise, inviting one in seeing newpossibilities, potentials, ideas, and fantasy to dive into, and to explore. The artefact consistsof 50 discarded knitwear garments, sorted and donated by the non-profit organisation Björkåfrihet.Knitwear is among the most difficult of garment categories to resell due to its changingproperties. The garments are used in their given state without any further sorting or manipulation.

Role of Artefacts in this Research Project

The role of the artefact in our research practice is to visualize and communicateexplorations and developments of design theory and practice. The physical examples holda generative role, to evoke questions, visualize reasoning and inform the development ofthe thought process towards abstracted concepts and theory building. Hence the artefactembodies concepts and knowledge made available only through its existence. The physical example in our work generates and communicates knowledge and thoughts. It is both question and answer, both exploration and theory. The artefact serves to develop the theory in theprocess, the resulting artefact is the theory in concrete means. ‘Such a discovery can be founded on a very sudden, or more gradual, insight. It is a matter of “seeing”, in this case seeing that there is a certain substance/element with certain remarkable properties.’ (Hallnäs, 2018)

Place, publisher, year, pages
Berlin: Universität der Künste, 2022. p. 1
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-29952 (URN)978-3-89462-382-1 (ISBN)
Available from: 2023-04-11 Created: 2023-06-22 Last updated: 2023-07-04Bibliographically approved
Landahl, K. & Malmgren de Oliveira, S. (2022). EXPRESSIONS OF DISCARDED DESIGN DECISIONS #2: TO WEAR.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>EXPRESSIONS OF DISCARDED DESIGN DECISIONS #2: TO WEAR
2022 (English)Artistic output (Refereed)
National Category
Design
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-29674 (URN)
Available from: 2023-04-11 Created: 2023-04-11 Last updated: 2023-04-14Bibliographically approved
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