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  • Quist, Johannes
    et al.
    Chalmers University of Technology.
    Bhadani, Kanishk
    Bengtsson, Magnus
    Chalmers University of Technology.
    Evertsson, Magnus
    Chalmers University of Technology.
    Malmqvist, Johan
    Chalmers University of Technology.
    Enelund, Mikael
    Chalmers University of Technology.
    Hoffenson, Steven
    CDIO Based Engineering Design and Optimization Course2017In: Proceedings of the 13th International CDIO Conference, University of Calgary, Calgary, Canada, June 18-22, 2017., 2017, p. 298-314Conference paper (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    In order to design competitive products that meet today’s challenges, future engineers need knowledge and experience in applying and integrating optimization theory in the engineering design process. The Chalmers course Engineering Design and Optimization addresses this need and was developed and first offered in the fall semester of 2013. This paper provides a detailed account of the course development experiences, teaching methods and course evaluations using CDIO Standards. It also includes a discussion of the learning objectives, required resources, instructional processes and student assessments. The course is analyzed to see to what extent the course aim is satisfied and highlight areas of improvement. Three projects are carried out in groups of two students. The projects are a cantilever design-build-test exercise, a redesign project that involves material selection, and a multi disciplinary design project of an engine component using multi-physics software. The assignments are assessed with respect to both engineering criteria as well as reporting and communication. The course is believed to be novel in the way optimization theory and tools are taught as an integrated learning experience with engineering design and physical prototyping. The course has had a great impact on the students’ choice of master’s thesis project. The number of optimization-focused master thesis projects has increased from two or three to around 15 annually. Several of these projects are multidisciplinary and joint projects between departments of Applied Mechanics and Product & Production Development. The course has also initiated a valuable partnership with industry on optimization that now has grown to a network with 20 industrial and academic members.

  • Envall, Matilda
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    The Story of a Dress: Ivestigating the visual and formal features of an existing garment & processing the findings into a new design.2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor of Fine Arts), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    This project explores the features of a dress through two-dimensional imagery. It uses trompe l’oeil techniques to investigate and highlight the qualities of the garment. This proposes new ways to use trompe l’oeil designs and new ways to draw inspiration from an existing garment.

    The dress has been studied visually; through looking at it, tracing its shape and through drawing and painting it. The shape of the dress has been studied and developed through pattern construction.

    The design elements found in the dress have been expressed and enhanced into new designs. Embellishments and prints are used, to create a refined expression. The project has resulted in a seven outfit collection, where each outfit expresses one or two design element(s) from the inspirational dress.

    The collection shows a way to use decorative techniques to express findings in an artistic garment investigation. It also shows a way to draw inspiration from an existing garment to create an independent new design.

  • Silfors Granberg, Emma
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Work It!: exploring gender-issues through extreme contrasts2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor of Fine Arts), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    The purpose of this study is to explore gender-issues by the means of extreme contrasts in functionality. The motivation behind the work comes from the structural objectification of women that is maintained through fashion and social media, and how this is an issue that mainly regards women. By morphing extreme contrasts in dress, by the means of male coded work wear, and female coded shape wear, this work explores gender related norms, ideals and statuses. Through this work, shape was decided through try-outs with garments and/or their components, with a research that was based on today’s ideals, and social media trends. Lines in garments became increasingly more important during the process, and the components of garments in the different categories too. In the result the importance of colour, material and shape regarding gender-issues in dress is highlighted, since they often convey a gender coded expression. To disrupt this inherit gender, the result demonstrates how these components can be mixed. Breaking down status in gender attributes could be used to create a more equal sphere in fashion.

  • Backlund, Axel
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    A Bunch of Motherfuckers2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor of Fine Arts), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    In this project a collection of clothes, based on the raggar culture has been developed. e work is intended to be a modernization of the clothing, exploring the subculture and developing it, however without loosing its attitude. In uences from other related subcultures have also taken part in the work.

    The aim is to investigate the technique of spray painting directly on garments, as a method for developing prints, taking visual inspiration from the culture of raggare. Sources for inspiration to the painting have been gra ti, airbrush and action painters. In order to keep the attitude of the raggar culture, the collection is largely based on vintage clothing, linked to the culture in question. e result in this project is a collection containing eight out ts, dedicated mainly to raggare but also to others.

  • Björkgren, Anton
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Eriksson Sjöqvist, Edvin
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Sänkt temperatur i kylkedjan: Konsekvenser för transportbranschen2017Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    Chilled foodstuffs are today transported within a temperature interval of +2 °C - +8 °C in Sweden. The correct temperatures in which foodstuffs with animal origin should be handled in are regulated by law and diverges between +2 °C - +7 °C. Many refrigeration systems in grocery stores and consumer’s homes are set at +8 °C. The great majority of foodstuffs are, as a result of this, on the packaging marked with a storage temperature of +8 °C. To be well prepared, the transport industry ask themselves which consequences might occur in case of a reduced temperature in the cold chain. The main reason for this is to overcome food waste. Research shows that foodstuffs durability is highly dependent on its storage temperature. The rate in which microbial growth occur drops with falling temperatures. In2020 a new EU regulation enters in to force which regulates the use of refrigerants with higher Global Warming Potential factor than 2500. The grocery stores have to, as a result of this, replace many of their older refrigeration systems. Regulating lower temperatures won’t be an issue with new modern equipment. As a result of this they can guarantee lower temperatures on foodstuff. To be prepared for what might come, the transport industry wants to know what consequences a lower temperature might bring along in their part of the cold chain. The main issue is that some foodstuff might be harmed in temperatures close to the freezing point. The use of protective coatings could offer shelter for cold sensitive products. One other proven method is to allocate foodstuff in different temperature zones. This thesis theoretical contribution compiles earlier research in areas such as foodstuffs characteristics when refrigerated, multi temperature systems, protective coatings and semi structured interviews with experts within their fields. It further examines the cold chain and the stakeholders within it. The focus of the thesis is thru the perspective of one of the major transport companies within cold chain logistics in Sweden. The practical contribution is based on a case-study together with the theoretical contribution which states consequences that possibly can occur along the transport company’s part of the cold chain. The analysis shows that, to minimize the risk of cassation, some foodstuffs need protection. Either thru multiple temperature zones or with protective covers. Both alternatives comes with advantages and disadvantages. To add temperature zones are associated with investments in the form of separable walls and cooling systems together with an increase in logistic complexity. Multi temperature systems can however secure the quality in a foodstuffs quality. The issue with protective covers is that there’s no return logistics system in place and such a system can be very expensive to uphold. The covers do however offer protection from outer temperature influence. The conclusions states that a combination of both solutions might be suitable. To accomplish this however requires collaboration over company and industry borders if all stakeholders are to be beneficial.

  • Fasth Snödahl, Niklas
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Luukkonen, Kim
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Riktlinjer som kan öka rapporteringsgraden av avvikelser2017Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    The studied project suffers from a low degree of deviation reports and therefore wishes a new way to increase the reporting degree of deviations with help from new guidelines. A high degree of reporting deviations is a presumption to get an overview of the problems in the company or in its units of the company. A well functional reporting system and a well performed management of deviations will increase the quality of the company or of its products. The quality of the product can be increased by using an improvement in the company. By using an improvement in the company or in its unit’s chronical errors can be erased or reduced. To create a general overview of deviations and improvement an extensive literature study was performed about the chosen subjects. From the literature study, interview questions were made. These questions where later used to give answers to the main question. With the literature and the interviews as a basis the improvement in the examined project was found. The literature and the answers given from the interview were compared to find similarities and differences between them both. The similarities and differences were analyzed and compared. During the analysis it was concluded that the project has a large improvement potential in deviations handling. New guidelines where therefore determined that could lead to an increased reporting degree of deviations. One of the guidelines that were determined was that the management has a great influence when it comes to increase the deviation reports. The study revealed a we and them mentality between the skilled workers and the management in the project. To be able to increase the degree of deviation reports this mentality needs to be eliminated. To increase the reports several other guidelines were determined, which is presented in this report’s conclusion.

  • Halldórsdóttir, Helga Lára
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    CORNERED COMPOSITIONS: EXPLORING the CORNER of a ROOM as a METHOD of GARMENT CONSTRUCTION2018Independent thesis Advanced level (degree of Master (Two Years)), 20 credits / 30 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    This work began as an exploration of the spatial qualities of awkwardness. It eventually evolved into a fixation on the three planes within the corner of a room, representing the safe haven for an awkward individual. The corner has successfully demonstrated the relationship between body, space and garment as a concept. Furthermore, the corner has proved to function as the ultimate tool for creating a sculpture with the integrated body.

    The motive of this work is to spark interest and to provide an alternative criteria for what can be categorised as a sculpture. This new criteria represents functional interchanging sculptures that can be built around the body.

    The limits created within this work have been key in formulating the problem, and to generate a wide range of results within a concentrated field to challenge the method. The ultimate limit has been the corner itself, which has been manifested into the ultimate opportunity.

    This has resulted in a collection of examples all constructed through the method of the corner and finally bringing it to the body, effectively removing the corner from the space. This has created a mobile wearable space, that can be arranged according to desired fashion and shield awkwardness.

  • Jardesten, Alice
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Clashing Contexts2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor of Fine Arts), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    Fashion is a social construct and its very essence is to express identity and status. Depending on context we dress differently and we are constantly adapting in order to meet social expectations of dress.

    This work explores the relationship between archetypical garments and status. The main objective of this exploration is to challenge hierarchies in fashion by clashing different stereotypes by the means of construction. This implies to question social structures currently present in fashion. Due to these structures, we conform to stereotypical ideas of how to dress, which restricts us.

    What could be defined as missing within fashion today is the clash between garments on opposite sides of the hierarchy in fashion. While meetings within the same garment group has been explored before by numerous designers, combining archetypes from opposite sides of the hierarchy is yet relatively unexplored.

    If one was to transcend the boundaries and jump freely between garment groups, there is a possibility to select fragments from different categories in a garment to work with. This could then create more free ways of expressing oneself through dress.

    What is presented in this work is an approach aiming to challenge hierarchies in fashion. The examples can be read as archetypical and stereotypical hybrids with the intention to question how we dress in certain contexts. Resulting in new meetings of materials and expressions relating to dress codes.

  • Nitsche, Tanja Marie
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    About Solving and Dissolving: Investigating the design possibilities of bio plastic2018Independent thesis Advanced level (degree of Master (Two Years)), 20 credits / 30 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    Translating the conceptual term of sustainability into materials and exploring bio plastics in order to generate visually and tacitly intriguing objects are the aims for this project. Other designers and previous projects in the field of textile design showed how the material works in a small scale. This project used the material’s design properties to generate groups of object elements. The three main design properties of the material, transparency, biomorph expression and flexibility, and their opposites, opaqueness, geometric expression and stiffness, were combined in different sets which resulted in the used artistic methodology. Therefore, the material properties and earlier established techniques formed the base for finding the overall forms of the installations.

    The collection and a book about the surface design possibilities for plant based plastic show how the material can be manufactured. The installations focus on the interplay between colour, light and shadow, material texture and pattern in relation to the overall shape of the object. Moulding, laser cutting and the addition of other ingredients like recycled paper, fibres and mica powder influenced the material’s durability, flexibility, transparency and texture. Experiments revealed that the colours change over time and all of them are highly influenced in their intensity and shade by the light source behind the material.

    This project visualises how all these factors interact and which techniques and tools are required to process the new material. Moreover, it generates new options for a new formal language and terminology for sustainable interior textiles.

  • Persson, Josephine
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Attention to Details: To challenge predetermined expressions within garments and accessories,through explorations of their details and giving them new meaning byabstraction.2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor of Fine Arts), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    The primary purpose of this study is to investigate and challenge the predetermined silhouettes of street wear; silhouettes and identity that has been ”approved” by the structures of society. The study aims to open up for discussion, and explore the area in which might be considered to be ”wrongdoings”, in order to push the boundaries that we have set on the different components a garment can be built up with. The study was conducted with the method of deconstruction, to be able to fully understand the archetypes of garments and accessories within the chosen field. The focus laid on the details, and how one could abstract these and rework them into something else; another silhouette and purpose. The result shows garments that has pushed their on limitations in silhouettes and identity; opened up for other kinds of context, and embraces the possibilities of their details when it comes to shape.

  • Willumsen, Kajsa
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Dressing[room]2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor of Fine Arts), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    This project is an investigation of the relationship between spatial dressing and body dressing. It aims to find a new way of dressing the body by looking at how a room is dressed. It is explored by using the mindset of when dressing and furnish a room, looking at elements such as materials, details and fixtures of what defines the different rooms. To gain knowledge and understanding of the chosen elements they have been decontextualized and experimented with on a body, using the body as a spatial canvas. It has been explored through placement in order to challenging the limitations of starting points when dressing as well as other aspects such as the spatial aesthetic as dress, new expressions, function and shape. It suggests a playful- and different interpretation of how to dress the body. The importance of this investigation has been to keep the objects as they are, to mix the things we know and can refer to, in its original form and function, with an unexpected context in order to maximize its potential use and to question how we categorize things.

  • Souza Filho, Pedro
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Nair, Ramkumar
    Mycorena AB.
    Andersson, Dan
    University of Borås, Faculty of Caring Science, Work Life and Social Welfare.
    Lennartsson, Patrik R.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Taherzadeh, Mohammad J
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Vegan-mycoprotein concentrate from pea-processing industry byproduct using edible filamentous fungi2018In: Fungal Biology and Biotechnology, ISSN 2054-3085, Vol. 5, no 5Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Background

    Currently around one billion people in the world do not have access to a diet which provides enough protein and energy. However, the production of one of the main sources of protein, animal meat, causes severe impacts on the environment. The present study investigates the production of a vegan-mycoprotein concentrate from pea-industry byproduct (PpB), using edible filamentous fungi, with potential application in human nutrition. Edible fungal strains of Ascomycota (Aspergillus oryzaeFusarium venenatumMonascus purpureusNeurospora intermedia) and Zygomycota (Rhizopus oryzae) phyla were screened and selected for their protein production yield.

    Results

    A. oryzae had the best performance among the tested fungi, with a protein yield of 0.26 g per g of pea-processing byproduct from the bench scale airlift bioreactor cultivation. It is estimated that by integrating the novel fungal process at an existing pea-processing industry, about 680 kg of fungal biomass attributing to about 38% of extra protein could be produced for each 1 metric ton of pea-processing byproduct. This study is the first of its kind to demonstrate the potential of the pea-processing byproduct to be used by filamentous fungi to produce vegan-mycoprotein for human food applications.

    Conclusion

    The pea-processing byproduct (PpB) was proved to be an efficient medium for the growth of filamentous fungi to produce a vegan-protein concentrate. Moreover, an industrial scenario for the production of vegan-mycoprotein concentrate for human nutrition is proposed as an integrated process to the existing PPI production facilities.

  • Berglind Stefánsdóttir, Jóna
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Object Poetry: Shaping Through Knit2018Independent thesis Advanced level (degree of Master (Two Years)), 20 credits / 30 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    Textile design has long been known for its craft related and traditional ways of working. Different designers and artist have found a way of approaching the field from an unconventional perspective. The aim of this project is to demonstrate an alternative way of approaching the field by applying traditional methods to unconventional materials. By doing so the hope is to bring joy and playfulness to the field.

    As a final result the three groups consisting of nine objects present ways that knit can be used to sculpt and to lend flexibility when combined with stiffer structures, therefore giving way for movement and transformability. Object Poetry engages the viewer to interact and experience fun.

  • Souza Filho, Pedro
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Zamani, Akram
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Production of Edible Fungi from Potato Protein Liquor (PPL) in Airlift Bioreactor2017In: Fermentation, ISSN 2311-5637, Vol. 3, no 1, p. 12-Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Potato protein liquor (PPL), a side stream from the potato starch industry, is normally used as fertilizer. However, with more than 100 g/L of sugars, 20 g/L of Kjeldahl nitrogen and Chemical Oxigen Demand (COD) of 300 g/L, it represents serious environmental challenges. The use of PPL for fungal cultivation is a promising solution to convert this waste into valuable products. In this study, PPL was characterized and used to cultivate edible zygomycete Rhizopus oryzae, which is widely used in Southeast Asian cuisine to prepare e.g., tempeh. Moreover, it can be potentially used as a protein source in animal feed worldwide. Under the best conditions, 65.47 ± 2.91 g of fungal biomass per litre of PPL was obtained in airlift bioreactors. The total Kjeldahl nitrogen content of the biomass was above 70 g/kg dry biomass. The best results showed 51% reduction of COD and 98.7% reduction in the total sugar content of PPL.

  • Krull Eriksen, Katrine
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Introducing Plaster: Exploring Artistic Expressions of Natural Dyed Plaster2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor of Fine Arts), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    Introducing Plaster is a degree work in textile design exploring the fusion of natural dyes and plaster, and how this can be applied as a textile design material. The outcome is presented as an experimental investigation, placed in the context of surface and material design. This study derived from a growing interest in how new materials can be implemented into the field of textile design using established textile techniques and methods. Natural dye, texture and flexibility where explored through the method of hands-on-experimentation. The study moved foreword by asking the question: “What happens if?”, and the findings have been analyzed and selected for further development. The final collection consists of five pieces made entirely from plaster, showing another approach to how textile techniques and methods can be developed and adapted to fit materials from another field, for instance: Plaster.

  • Ljungdahl, Sarah
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    smock x knit: Exploring the possibility of shape in knitwear by looking at theaesthetic properties of smocking, drawing inspiration from sportswear.2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor of Fine Arts), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    Since late eighteenth century smocking has been a part of different fields of fashion. From agricultural clothing and swimsuits, and also inspiring architecture.

    The approach of smocking has always been to tighten the fabric against the body. This work will challenging this by exploring the possibility to build form with smocking on the body, placing it in the context of personas on a winter vacation.

    By extracting elements of the smocking and sketching directly in the knitting machine using different techniques and yarn with contrasting characteristics, the ambition has been to translate aesthetic aspects of smocking via volume, pattern, material and colour into knitted material, targeting a sporty silhouette and expression.

    The result show an alternative way to bout fabricate and view the smocking. By letting the technique build form, placing it in a sports context suggest that smocking no longer is a technique solely for romantic dresses.

  • Schweiger, Ronja
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Adamant Textile: The reciprocal impact of concrete and textile2018Independent thesis Advanced level (degree of Master (Two Years)), 20 credits / 30 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    The primary goal of this study is to investigate the combination of concrete merged with textiles. Furthermore, it investigates exchanging the characteristics of these contrasting materials. Consequently, the work shows the reciprocal influence of both textile and concrete to each other. The resulting final collection presents six pieces with the main intention to present different expressions of flexibility. These appear through the interaction of textile and concrete, with the textile providing the flexibility. Depending on the precise characteristics of the used textiles, the flexibility can be shown through the tension in a fabric, the ability to be squeezed or the movement. A subsequent range of experiments investigates techniques, methods and material qualities to prove, that the required effects of the end result can be fulfilled. The crucial factors are the textile materials, the connection between concrete and textile and the treatment of the resulting surface or object. Depending on which way the crucial components are fused, a variety of expressions in the results can be accomplished. These can be described as rather organic through to geometric, and also depends whether the piece is in motion. The outcomes provide an overview of design possibilities, of incorporating such contrasting materials to create different properties and unexpected characteristics in each piece. Based on the final results, it can be concluded that the major objective, to explore design possibilities through a reciprocal interaction of textile and concrete, gives a strong and impressive expression. The approach of this relatively broad research is nevertheless important for the textile field. Therefore, it suggests further exploration, using the results as a foundation and narrow it down by focusing on specific factors.

  • Walters, Kathryn
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Form from flat: Exploring emergent behaviour in woven textiles2018Independent thesis Advanced level (degree of Master (Two Years)), 20 credits / 30 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    The character of woven textiles is dependent on both the materials and the loom technology used. While digitally-controlled jacquard looms are a major development in weaving technology, they have mostly been used in developing representational and pictorial weaving. Such three-dimensional weaving as exists, utilises materials in predictably similar ways.

    Here, through systematic experimentation, three shrinking and two resisting yarns have been combined in multi-layer weaves in order to explore their potential for form-generating behaviour.

    Three-dimensional form occurs when the shrinking yarn/s place the resisting yarn/s under tension. To relieve this tension, the resisting yarn moves within the weave, creating waves or folds. The resulting form is highly sensitive to variation, demonstrating emergent behaviour, and identifying the woven textile as a complex system.

    Demonstrating the variety of form possible from a limited number of materials, the results represent a small body of work aiming to re-form weaving. The exploration of synergistic material combinations is therefore shown to be an exercise of value to fields from art textiles through to industry. It demonstrates that there is great development potential in woven textiles. Understanding the behaviour of materials is fundamental to furthering form-based weaving.

  • Westman, Malin
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Babewear: Questioning the way society force childrenswear into two set genders, translated in adultwear2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor of Fine Arts), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    From the day we are born, we are divided into a gender. This work will look into the way society force children wear into two set genders. I expect to enlighten the problems in set genders in clothes.

    By studying the characteristics in children wear, scale them up into an adult size and see what happens to the proportions, details and expression. Different kinds of garments with different kind of details. The result is a collection that represents todays features of children wear, pointing out the issues of how society gives children a set identity by the dressing them in a specic way, often by using prints or typical colors.

  • Fransson Dekhla, Linda
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Weaving Dress: Exploring whole-garment weaving as a method to create expressive dress2018Independent thesis Advanced level (degree of Master (Two Years)), 20 credits / 30 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    This thesis investigates whole-garment weaving as an experimental design and construction method. The majority of the current development and research within the field focuses on production efficiency and the development of weaving techniques. Here, the intention is to connect form, material and making.

    The aim is to find ways to deconstruct the process of garment making in order to create new knowledge through craft. Within whole-garment weaving, many design processes are dealt with simultaneously, through direct experimentation on the loom. In order to maintain the integrity of the weaving, interferences such as cutting and sewing is limited.

    The basics of the practical method is that the cloth is woven as a double weave on the loom. For the practical work, the first objective was to find basic parameters for the project, freely experimenting with weave constructions and bindings. As the process developed, more aspects of garment construction were included in the design process. The combination of bindings, floats and elastic is used to create expressive textile as well as dress, so that the textile surfaces influences the silhouette or the drape.

    The result shows the expressive potential of whole-garment weaving through a series of nine examples, each showcasing different aspects of the method. The focus is on showcasing experimental approaches to simultaneous fashion/textile design interaction.

  • Gennert Jakobsson, Josefine
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Who’s tooth? Houndstooth!: An investigation about howto use houndstooth patternto generate form andsurface with acut-and-weavemethod.2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor of Fine Arts), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    With an interest within colour and print this work developed into questioning their lack of function regarding creating or contributing to from. It investigates how to generate form and surface on a body based on houndstooth pattern. The hypothesis is to find methods that increases a prints expressional possibilities and to find a way to create shape from the prints qualities. It concerns the subject how print, colour and materials relate and affect each other depending on for example saturation, quality and scale.

    Based on the construction of a woven houndstooth a specific method to generate form have been developed, here called cut-and-weave. The result is performed in 7 outfits where this method is applied in various ways. Together they illustrate, not only that a print can give form by manipulating its construction, but also that a print can be enhanced and reinforced by executing it in different ways.

  • Johansson, Alva
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    LOVE2017Independent thesis Advanced level (degree of Master (Two Years)), 20 credits / 30 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    This project explores the dimensional relationship between body and dress through using features of corsetry. Where is the garment tight? Where do we place volume and where do we show skin? This project addresses these questions and the construction of dress through broadening the concept of corsetry.

    With the vision to improve the relationship between body and dress through exploring new methods for an existing technique. Searching for alternative construction techniques in dress which enhances the circular relationship between body, dress and form. By exploring new working methods that includes the body in the process of constructing garments, the corsetry tools has been used to investigate how the garment stays on the body in terms of how we tighten it to the body and by that also give the garment its shape.

    The project is practice based and built on concrete experiments. The relationship between body, fabric and form has been explored through working hands on with the material on the own body.

    The design method was developed in the beginning of the project. Further, it was carried out through using rectangular and tube shaped fabrics together with features of corsetry, mainly focusing on eyelets and lacing.

    Resulting in both a new method for an existing technique, as well as a result that expresses new possibilities in the composition of the dressed body. It also proposes alternative ways of constructing and wearing garments, where the body and the garment work together.

  • Norrsell, Lovisa
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    GIVING TEXTILES FORM: Exploring Self-supporting Possibilities2017Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor of Fine Arts), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    Giving textiles form is a project in textile design exploring how textiles can create self-supporting three-dimensional forms with after finishing techniques. The project focuses on the textile to be self-supporting, by working against and challenging the properties of a textile fabric. The motive for the project is to widen the definition of what a textile can do. The methods of origami and traditional Japanese wood joinery are used to find a functioning and durable construction, as well as manipulating the textiles with colour and after finishing techniques. The result of this work is three coloured textile forms that are three-dimensional and self-supporting, the use of colour strengthens the depth and adds a spatial dimension. This work contributes to broaden the field of textile design by expanding the use of textile.

  • Sjögren, Linn
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Tourist: An investigation of the printed Hawaii shirt2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor of Fine Arts), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    The aim of this work is to explore the printed Hawaii shirt through material investigations in search of new print meetings.

    A vital step for this investigation was to develop the classic Hawaii- prints and motives in mixed media. Followed by exploring alternative printing techniques such as transfer printing, laser cutting and knitting in different materials to reach new expressions yet keeping a clear reference to the Hawaii shirt.

    The intention of this work was to investigate how the Hawaii shirt with its classic print could interact with the mind and body of the wearer. Furthermore, to question the informal rules of wearing a Hawaii shirt with a starting point in Umberto Eco’s theories about epidemic self-awareness.

    The motive of this work is to critically look at the society today, with a focus on consumerism, foreign travel and tourism and the expression of it, with the Hawaii shirt as a symbol of these things. Based on the assumption of the Hawaii shirt being a tacky souvenir that tourists bring back home from their holidays.

    This work show new expressions of the printed Hawaii shirt through innovative print meetings. This work also proposes alternative ways of wearing a Hawaii Shirt.

  • Seipel, Sina
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Yu, Junchun
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Viková, Martina
    Technical University of Liberec.
    Vik, Michal
    Technical University of Liberec.
    Nierstrasz, Vincent
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Inkjet printing and UV-LED curing of photochromic dyes for functional and smart textile applications2018In: RSC Advances, ISSN 2046-2069, E-ISSN 2046-2069, Vol. 8, no 50, p. 28395-28404Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Health concerns as a result of harmful UV-rays drive the development of UV-sensors of different kinds. In this research, a UV-responsive smart textile is produced by inkjet printing and UV-LED curing of a specifically designed photochromic ink on PET fabric. This paper focuses on tuning and characterizing the colour performance of a photochromic dye embedded in a UV-curable ink resin. The influence of industrial fabrication parameters on the crosslinking density of the UV-resin and hence on the colour kinetics is investigated. A lower crosslinking density of the UV-resin increases the kinetic switching speed of the photochromic dye molecules upon isomerization. By introducing an extended kinetic model, which defines rate constants kcolouration, kdecayand kdecolouration, the colour performance of photochromic textiles can be predicted. Fabrication parameters present a flexible and fast alternative to polymer conjugation to control kinetics of photochromic dyes in a resin. In particular, industrial fabrication parameters during printing and curing of the photochromic ink are used to set the colour yield, colouration/decolouration rates and the durability, which are important characteristics towards the development of a UV-sensor for smart textile applications.

  • Petersson, Jenny
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    3D-simulation som avprovningsmetod: Inriktat mot tights för sportutövning2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    This study on 3D fitting for sports tights is a Final Bachelor Degree Thesis in design technology. The company the study is developed for works with sportswear and currently has an interest in using 3D simulation as a fitting method. For the development of tights adapted for training, several prototypes are currently being sent between the company and the supplier before the product can start to be produced. In order for the production of the product to take less time, become more environmentally friendly and cost less, the study investigate if 3D fitting is applicable in the company's product development process. To check the validity of 3D fitting of tights, three surveys were made with the purpose of understanding the differences between physical and virtual testing. The studies focus on the base size Small and the largest size Extra Large. The study shows that 3D simulation is partially functional testing method for tights when it comes to controlling the design. In order to control the ease, the method in this study is not working. The participants of the study showed a positive attitude to use the method in their product development process, but mainly as a complement to physical fittings early in the design process.

  • Broberg, Emelie
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    3D som stöd vid produktutveckling: Undersöker gradering av avatar utifrån kroppsmåttlista samt passformsåtergivelse i 3D för överdelsplagg herr2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    The foundation for the study was an interest request from a company who wants to work with 3D simulation for fitting verification during product development of textile wear. The purpose of the study was to examine the features, possibilities and limitations in the virtual software Lectra Modaris 3D version V8R1. The thesis targeting grading of avatar that is based on body measurements for the sizes Medium and XXL. The cooperation company is a producer of workwear and in the thesis two garment for upper part of body that they developed are used, for an equivalent comparison of virtual and physical environment.

     

    Suitable existing avatar in the programme was chosen and graded according to body measurement chart, physical mannequin was chosen after correspondence to chest width. A questionnaire was developed and given to five participants with suitable knowledge that were chosen to participate in the study, for the sole purpose of evaluating graded avatars and compare fitting result on virtual and physical mannequin. The thesis shows that the ease and length of the garment in 3D were equivalent with physical garment. The result and conclusion of the thesis shows an approach to validate settings in 3D, to get a reliable ground for fitting evaluation. The avatar should verificate by being compared to a physical person, to increase the credibility in the results. In the same way, properties of the material should be compared for better basis for fitting verification of the garments drape, wrinkles and strains.

  • Olebjörk, Karin
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Måttning: Problematiken kring måttning inför val av storlek vid e-handel2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    The purpose of this report is to highlight customers' problems in finding the right size when shopping for clothes in an online store. The focus area is to investigate whether it is possible for customers to take accurate body measurements or garment measurements with a measuring tape in order to select appropriate clothing size in e-commerce.

     

    A market investigation on the internet was conducted to find out how clothing companies design their size guides. Then a study took place with 20 participant soldiers. They were asked to follow the instructions for taking body measurements of themselves, to take measurements of each other and to measure two selected garments. Finally, they where measured by a garment technologist. The result showed a very large difference, and several of the measures had a span from -6 cm to +6 cm. One finding was that some measurement results were improved when someone else than themselves performed the body measuring. Afterwards the participants were asked to answer a few questions. Around 60 % of the them believed that a film instruction could facilitate the body measuring. The conclusion is that it is important to inform the customers in the size guide that it is important to get help to get as accurate measurements as possible and that an instructional film can facilitate the measuring. A complement to body measurements can be garments measurements in the size guide.

  • Bergroth, Michaela
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Gradering av trosor: En studie om hur två graderingssätt påverkar olika trosmodellers passform.2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    This study examines how three different pantie models Slip, Hipster and Hotpant affects of two types of grading. The first option is based on a grading that a Swedish company uses on these three models. The second option is based on a suggestion from the supplier. The differences is that side height is increased/decreased with 1.5 centimeters instead of 1 and a measure for back width is added and graded with -/+ 1.5 centimeters.

     

    The method that is used is construction of all models where made in Lectras Modaris. The construction is based on the garment measurement list from the company. All the models where graded in sizes Extra Small to Extra Large. The grading’s where analyzed in Lectras Kaledo Style. Then the panties where sewn in size Extra Large and tested on dummy and model The conclusion is that the slip could not be produced in the second option. While the best grading of the two other models would be best to combine the first and second option to reach the ultimate fit.

  • Andersson, Josefin
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Gradering av barnplagg: En jämförelse mellan två olika sätt att applicera gradering2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    The following study is a bachelor essay in design technology. It investigates the differences that occur when applicating grading with two different methods. The study is made on a mission from a Swedish fashion company. Currently the company’s children’s department are using two different grading methods, however in the future the company wants to transition into only using one of them. To determent whish one the differences needs to be identified. The first method is developed by the company themselves based on expert functions in the CAD-program Modaris (Lectra 2017a). While the second method is based on a more traditional point grading. The methods are being compared in the study by grading two garments according to each method, one t-shirt and one jogger both in jersey material. The differences are then investigated by comparing pattern pieces, garment measurement charts and garment samples. In the result several differences between the methods are discovered, these are found both in the shape of the pattern pieces and in the grading intervals in the garment measurement chart. However, during the fitting session it was determent that these differences needs to be quite large to impact on the final product. A joint observation in all three comparison methods was that the further the grading moves from the base size the greater the differences are.

  • Söderberg, Emily
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Sundin, Kristoffer
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Fibersläpp från polyester i tvätt: Utvärdering och utveckling av testmetod för att bestämma emission av mikroplaster från textil2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    Plastics in the marine environment are an issue that has gotten a lot of attention. Lately microplastics have also been observed as an environmental problem. Contaminants in the water can be adsorbed onto the microplastics, they can also be mistaken for food and enter the food web. The health effects of this are still unknown, but research suggests that it can have a negative impact. A large proportion of the microplastics in the oceans are derived from synthetic clothing. They are shed from the garments during laundry and since most wastewater treatment plants do not efficiently filter out these particles, they end up in the ocean. Today there is no standardized method of measuring shedding and therefore difficult to make any comparisons between studies. It is considered important to develop standardized testing methods to obtain comparable results in the development of textile materials that shed less. Fabric samples of polyester were analyzed for the purpose of evaluating and validating a method of measuring shedding in laundry, developed by Swerea IVF through the research program Mistra Future Fashion. The method is based on gyrowash combined with optical microscopy and connected software that quantifies the number of particles. The method could not be reproduced at the University of Borås without significant differences in shedding. This is probably due to differences in conditions, such as the use of a laser cutter in this project. To facilitate pre-treatment and increase the reproducibility, a fixture was developed for vacuuming. The fixture also reduced the statistical dispersion of the test results. However, the results showed an interaction between the material and the method of vacuuming, thus making it inadvisable to draw any conclusions regarding each individual factor. For the recycled polyester there is no difference in shedding with the use of the fixture, but in the case of virgin polyester a significant difference is observed. Due to interaction and deviations of more than one construction parameter in the paired materials, it is not possible to draw any conclusions regarding differences in shedding between virgin and recycled polyester. The method is not suitable for measuring the actual shedding in household laundry and only functions to compare differences when one parameter is varied solely. Furthermore, comparisons between trials carried out under different conditions should be avoided unless their impact has been properly established.

  • Sjöblom, Therése
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Fabric conditioning for more gentle shredding: Pre-treatment for mechanical recycling of cotton and polyester2018Independent thesis Advanced level (degree of Master (Two Years)), 20 credits / 30 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    There is a growing need for fibres with increasing population. One way to solve this is to recycle the fibres from textile waste. In mechanical recycling by shredding the textiles are shredded back to fibrous form. The biggest problem with shredding is that it is a harsh process that reduces the fibre length and damages the fibre.

     

    To make the shredding process more gentle and preserve more of the fibre length, pre-treatment that lowers the friction between the fibres have been investigated. Polyethene glycol 4000 (PEG 4000) is an environmentally friendly chemical that could be used to lower the friction of cotton and polyester, the two most used textile fibres. Another treatment evaluated is glycerol. The treatment should not affect further processing of the fibres. For evaluating the treatment, a test of the interfibre friction was performed on carded webs and fabrics that were untreated and treated. Prior to shredding four samples were made of fabrics of cotton, polyester and polycotton. From each fabric, one was left untreated, and one was treated with a low concentration of PEG 4000. The concentration of PEG 4000 was chosen from the test on fibres. Also from each fabric, two treatments that were not prepared by the author; one with a high concentration of PEG 4000 and the other with glycerol. All 12 samples were shredded back to fibres. The shredded material was analysed, and the fibre length was measured. The reclaimed fibres from the shredded material were also tried to be processed into yarns.

     

    The main result was that it was possible to rotor spin yarn of 100% reclaimed fibres from cotton and polyester treated with PEG 4000, which means that the treatment did not interfere with the spinnability of the reclaimed fibres. Untreated cotton was also spinnable, but untreated polyester was not possible to card. The cotton and polyester treated with glycerol were possible to carded and made into a sliver but not spinnable. The reclaimed fibres from the polycotton fabric were not possible to card or process further. This result correlates with the analyses of the shredded material and the fibre length measurement. The best results were for polyester treated with 0.71 w% PEG 4000 that had 121% longer mean fibre length than untreated polyester. The best result for cotton was treated with 0.29 w% PEG 4000.

  • Lamti, Sandra
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Kostymbyxa utan sidsöm: En studie kring borttagningens påverkan hos en kostymbyxas sidsöm2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    The most common things today is that suit pants have two side-seams because it's of great importance to achieve the desired fit and comfort of the garment. Without the side-seams, the inside leg seam would have to involve all fits, which makes it problematic considering the garment is supposed to stay tight to the body.  The study is a collaboration with a Swedish fashion company that wants to creat a more effective clothing solution for removal of a figurative suit pants side-seams.

     

    The essay uses the company’s best-selling product for revise, along with comparing of literature and one market research. Other methods used in the survey are tests on an internal test model, assessed visually and through a test protocol, but also test charts in regard to requirements and measurements.

     

    By applying the pattern to the fabric at different grainlines, different results have been shown. The results shows better fit at grainline parallel to the warp direction. It also turns out that there is a connection with the draping ability of the material, the softer material in the study gives a finer drape. While 45° grainline from the warp direction showed a result that had lack of fit.

  • Jardemyr, Petra
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Raglan i rörelse: En studie kring raglan för rörelse2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    This is a bachelor essay in garment technology and is a study on raglan sleeve and its mobility and is associated with a swedish company for sportswear. This study examine where the mobility is on the raglan garment and create different solutions for more mobility on the sleeve. This study is based on different basic blocks from litterature and is modified to a well fitted garment which is compared with one another in the end. The basic blocks is going to be created using Lectras 3D for easier placement on the cutlines which makes the process easier. The garment is tested on two fitting models which has the right body measurements that the company has. The fitting is to control the mobility of the garment and a protocoll is filled in. The garment is being compared with one another bu using photos of the models in different positions and the movility is being controlled. The garment is created with a simple raglan sleeve, raglan with a panel and a raglan sleeve with darts and a gusset under the sleeve. The result shows that the garment with raglan and gusset is the best for use as basic block for both departments for urban and sportswear because it shows the best fitting results in all positions.

  • Jabbari, Mostafa
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Osadolor, Osagie Alex
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Nair, Ramkumar B
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Taherzadeh, Mohammad J
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    All-polyamide composite coated-fabric as an alternative material of construction for textile-bioreactors (TBRs)2017In: Energies, ISSN 1996-1073, E-ISSN 1996-1073, Vol. 10, no 11Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    All-polyamide composite coated-fabric (APCCF) was used as an alternative material for the construction of textile-bioreactors (TBRs), which are prepared as a replacement of the traditional stainless steel bioreactors (SSBRs) or concrete-based bioreactors. The material characteristics, as well as the fermentation process performance of the APCCF-TBR, was compared with a TBR made using the polyvinyl chloride (PVC)-coated polyester fabric (PVCCF). The TBRs were used for the anaerobic fermentation process using baker's yeast; and, for aerobic fermentation process using filamentous fungi, primarily by using waste streams from ethanol industries as the substrates. The results from the fermentation experiments were similar with those that were obtained from the cultivations that were carried out in conventional bioreactors. The techno-economic analysis conducted using a 5000 m3 APCCF-TBR for a typical fermentation facility would lead to a reduction of the annual production cost of the plant by 128,000,000 when compared to similar processes in SSBR. The comparative analyses (including mechanical and morphological studies, density measurements, thermal stability, ageing, and techno-economic analyses) revealed that the APCCF is a better candidate for the material of construction of the TBR. As the APCCF is a 100% recyclable single-polymer composite, which was prepared from Nylon 66 textile production-line waste, it could be considered as an environmentally sustainable product. 

  • Nair, R. B.
    et al.
    Gmoser, Rebecca
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Lennartsson, Patrik R.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Taherzadeh, Mohammad J
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Does the second messenger cAMP have a more complex role in controlling filamentous fungal morphology and metabolite production?2018In: MicrobiologyOpen, ISSN 2045-8827, E-ISSN 2045-8827Article in journal (Refereed)
  • Satari, B.
    et al.
    Swedish Centre for Resource Recovery, University of Borås.
    Karimi, K.
    Department of Chemical Engineering, Isfahan University of Technology.
    Taherzadeh, Mohammad J
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Zamani, Akram
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Co-production of fungal biomass derived constituents and ethanol from citruswastes free sugars without auxiliary nutrients in airlift bioreactor2016In: International Journal of Molecular Sciences, ISSN 1422-0067, E-ISSN 1422-0067, Vol. 17, no 3Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    The potential of two zygomycetes fungi, Mucor indicus and Rhizopus oryzae, in assimilating citrus waste free sugars (CWFS) and producing fungal chitosan, oil, and protein as well as ethanol was investigated. Extraction of free sugars from citrus waste can reduce its environmental impact by decreasing the possibility of wild microorganisms growth and formation of bad odors, a typical problem facing the citrus industries. A total sugar concentration of 25.1 g/L was obtained by water extraction of citrus waste at room temperature, used for fungal cultivation in shake flasks and airlift bioreactor with no additional nutrients. In shake flasks cultivations, the fungi were only able to assimilate glucose, while fructose remained almost intact. In contrast, the cultivation of M. indicus and R. oryzae in the four-liter airlift bioreactor resulted in the consumption of almost all sugars and production of 250 and 280 g fungal biomass per kg of consumed sugar, respectively. These biomasses correspondingly contained 40% and 51% protein and 9.8% and 4.4% oil. Furthermore, the fungal cell walls, obtained after removing the alkali soluble fraction of the fungi, contained 0.61 and 0.69 g chitin and chitosan per g of cell wall for M. indicus and R. oryzae, respectively. Moreover, the maximum ethanol yield of 36% and 18% was obtained from M. indicus and R. oryzae, respectively. Furthermore, that M. indicus grew as clump mycelia in the airlift bioreactor, while R. oryzae formed spherical suspended pellets, is a promising feature towards industrialization of the process. 

  • Souza Filho, Pedro Ferreira
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Zamani, Akram
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Taherzadeh, Mohammad J
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Edible Protein Production by Filamentous Fungi using Starch Plant Wastewater2018In: Waste and Biomass Valorization, ISSN 1877-2641, p. 1-10Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    The process to obtain starch from wheat requires high amounts of water, consequently generating large amounts of wastewater with very high environmental loading. This wastewater is traditionally sent to treatment facilities. This paper introduces an alternative method, where the wastewater of a wheat-starch plant is treated by edible filamentous fungi (Aspergillus oryzae and Rhizopus oryzae) to obtain a protein-rich biomass to be used as e.g. animal feed. The wastewater was taken from the clarified liquid of the first and second decanter (ED1 and ED2, respectively) and from the solid-rich stream (SS), whose carbohydrate and nitrogen concentrations ranged between 15 and 90 and 1.25–1.40 g/L, respectively. A. oryzae showed better performance than R. oryzae, removing more than 80% of COD after 3 days for ED1 and ED2 streams. Additionally, 12 g/L of dry biomass with protein content close to 35% (w/w) was collected, demonstrating the potential of filamentous fungi to be used in wastewater valorization. High content of fermentable solids in the SS sample led to high production of ethanol (10.91 g/L), which can be recovered and contribute to the economics of the process.

  • Taherzadeh, Mohammad J
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Karimi, K.
    Department of Chemical Engineering, Isfahan University of Technology.
    Enzyme-based hydrolysis processes for ethanol from lignocellulosic materials: A review2007In: BioResources, ISSN 1930-2126, E-ISSN 1930-2126, Vol. 2, no 4, p. 707-738Article, review/survey (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    This article reviews developments in the technology for ethanol production from lignocellulosic materials by "enzymatic" processes. Several methods of pretreatment of lignocelluloses are discussed, where the crystalline structure of lignocelluloses is opened up, making them more accessible to the cellulase enzymes. The characteristics of these enzymes and important factors in enzymatic hydrolysis of the cellulose and hemicellulose to cellobiose, glucose, and other sugars are discussed. Different strategies are then described for enzymatic hydrolysis and fermentation, including separate enzymatic hydrolysis and fermentation (SHF), simultaneous saccharification and fermentation (SSF), non-isothermal simultaneous saccharification and fermentation (NSSF), simultaneous saccharification and co-fermentation (SSCF), and consolidated bioprocessing (CBP). Furthermore, the by-products in ethanol from lignocellulosic materials, wastewater treatment, commercial status, and energy production and integration are reviewed.

  • Youngsukkasem, S.
    et al.
    Barghi, H.
    Chalmers University of Technology.
    Rakshit, S. K.
    Department of Chemical Engineering, Lakehead University.
    Taherzadeh, Mohammad J
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Rapid biogas production by compact multi-layer membrane bioreactor: Efficiency of synthetic polymeric membranes2013In: Energies, ISSN 1996-1073, E-ISSN 1996-1073, Vol. 6, no 12, p. 6211-6224Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Entrapment of methane-producing microorganisms between semi-permeable synthetic membranes in a multi-layer membrane bioreactor (MMBR) was studied and compared to the digestion capacity of a free-cell digester, using a hydraulic retention time of one day and organic loading rates (OLR) of 3.08, 6.16, and 8.16 g COD/L day. The reactor was designed to retain bacterial cells with uprising plug flow through a narrow tunnel between membrane layers, in order to acquire maximal mass transfer in a compact bioreactor. Membranes of hydrophobic polyamide 46 (PA) and hydroxyethylated polyamide 46 (HPA) as well as a commercial membrane of polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF) were examined. While the bacteria in the free-cell digester were washed out, the membrane bioreactor succeeded in retaining them. Cross-flow of the liquid through the membrane surface and diffusion of the substrate through the membranes, using no extra driving force, allowed the bacteria to receive nutrients and to produce biogas. However, the choice of membrane type was crucial. Synthesized hydrophobic PA membrane was not effective for this purpose, producing 50-121 mL biogas/day, while developed HPA membrane and the reference PVDF were able to transfer the nutrients and metabolites while retaining the cells, producing 1102-1633 and 1016-1960 mL biogas/day, respectively.

  • Youngsukkasem, S.
    et al.
    Rakshit, S. K.
    Taherzadeh, Mohammad J
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Biogas production by encapsulated methaneproducing bacteria2012In: BioResources, ISSN 1930-2126, E-ISSN 1930-2126, Vol. 7, no 1, p. 56-65Article in journal (Refereed)
    Abstract [en]

    Encapsulation of methane-producing bacteria was carried out with the objective of enhancing the rate of biogas production. Encapsulation with a one-step liquid-droplet-forming technique was employed for the natural membrane, resulting in spherical capsules with an average diameter and a membrane thickness of 4.3 and 0.2 mm, respectively. The capsules were made from alginate, using chitosan or Ca 2+ as counter-ions, together with the addition of carboxymethylcellulose (CMC). A Durapore® membrane (hydrophilic PVDF) with a pore size of 0.1 μm was used for synthetic encapsulating sachets having width and length dimensions 3×3 and 3×6 cm 2 for holding the bacteria. During the digesting process, the dissolved substrates penetrated through the capsule membrane, and biogas inside the capsules was able to escape by diffusion. The results indicate encapsulation to be a promising method of digestion, with a high density of anaerobic bacteria. The method holds considerable potential for further development of membranes and their applications.

  • Hydén, Emilia
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Majava, Sara
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Hållbarhet i en textil värdekedja: en studie av produktutveckling inom ridsport2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    Equestrian sport is one of the largest sports in Sweden. Despite this, it has lagged behind in the development towards a sustainable future. However, according to research, there are a lot of strategies for implementing sustainability in the textile value chain, which the equestrian companies could benefit from.

     

    The purpose of this study has been to map some of the Swedish product development brands in the equestrian industry, to see how they work with sustainability and what kind of obstacles and challenges they face within this work. A qualitative method was used in the study, where interviews were conducted with Swedish companies that manufacture products for horses and riders. Production takes place exclusively abroad.

     

    The results of the study show that the four participating companies work differently with sustainability. Although the two most prominent and most established companies are reasonably similar in their design and in their vision of sustainability, different measures have been taken to achieve these. Crucial factors seem to be the ability to allocate resources to active sustainability work, and commitment from employees and management, but also traditional factors weigh in. Where the older company works more conservatively with well-implemented strategies, such as code of conducts and long-term supplier relationships to create stable relationships, while the more newly established company takes another path, where innovation and research are the main focus. Similarities to how conventional clothing companies work has been identified, in terms of supplier management and managing code of conduct's regarding labor issues.

  • Stammarnäs, Märta
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Från hållbar profil till hållbar i varje led: En studie i hur medvetna modeföretag kan utforma och följa en hållbarhetsstrategi vid expansion2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    The purpose of the study is to analyze, through a qualitative research method, how smaller brands work with - and in the future can and aims to work on sustainability strategies in relation to expansion. This paper analyzes both companies and manufactures sustainability reports while providing researchers views on the topic. For the study an abductive research approach has been used. The research method is qualitative and in-depth interviews have been conducted with 6 different informants. For the interviews a semi structured interview has been used. Interview results have shown that the level of knowledge about sustainability strategies at companies is relatively low, but that interest in a higher level of knowledge exists. Whether a small fashion company works with sustainability seems to depend on the size of the company. How well a sustainability strategy can suit a business also seems to depend on the size of the company.

  • Forsberg, Matilda
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Larsson, Olivia
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Strävan efter kundlojalitet: Utformning av lojalitetsprogram och avgiftsbaserade medlemskap i textilbranschen2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    The challenges of operating within a constantly changing sector as the fashion and textile industry have proven to be extensive. Competitiveness between companies are increasing and customers have thus become less loyal to individual brands. In order to maintain the company’s competitive advantage strategies have been developed to keep customers loyal to the specific brand, often in the form of loyalty programs. However, previous research shows inconsistent evidence about the effectiveness of these programs and whether they actually lead to increased customer loyalty. The problem is based on the fact that there is a widespread lack of knowledge among companies regarding how to design a well-functioning loyalty program. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to investigate how retailers selling textile products on the Swedish market can design their loyalty programs to increase customer loyalty. Focus will be on medium to large companies and how they can work with open and closed loyalty programs as well as how they can make use of monetary and non- monetary rewards within the program. Furthermore, the study wishes to gain insight into the opportunities and limitations these companies recognize with fee-based loyalty programs. In order to answer the research questions, a combination of qualitative and quantitative research has been conducted in terms of a content analysis and semi structured interviews.

     

    The study implies that an open structure can be easy to implement when launching a loyalty program. But in order to increase customer loyalty and build long-term relationships, a closed loyalty program could be perceived as a better option. When it comes to rewards, nonmonetary rewards are better in the sense of creating a closer relationship with the customer whilst monetary rewards often results in a completed purchase. A balance between these types of rewards could thus lead to true loyalty towards a brand. The companies acknowledge both possibilities and limitations in terms of implementing a membership fee. For example, they believe that incorporating fees would generate fewer members within the loyalty program. But at the same time there is a belief amongst the companies that the customers would become more loyal if they pay for their membership.

  • Granström, Alicia
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Persson, Sofia
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Unga konsumenters kunskaper och beteende inom 3R-principen: med fokus på återvinning och återanvändning av kläder.2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    Swedes throw over 7.5 kg of clothing a year in the garbage and 60 percent of these garments are whole and could be reused. The current linear system, which exploits the Earth's resources and produces products that are later discarded, contribute to both large amounts of waste and depletion of natural resources. This is an unsustainable resource management. With the circular economy, already used resources can be reused multiple times instead of being discarded. Consumers today show an increasing interest in the environment and how their purchases can affect the environment. Nevertheless, reports show that Sweden's clothing consumption is increasing and that young people are active consumers who rarely think about the environment when shopping. To create awareness and behavioral change requires knowledge and understanding. The circular economy doesn’t take into account the underlying cause of increasing resource use, which is human consumption. Therefore, in order to switch to the circular model, one must examine humans and their role as well as consumption behavior.

     

    This essay is based on the circular economy's 3R principle and consumption behavior. The aim of the study is to investigate young consumers' knowledge and behavior within the 3R principle through a qualitative research method. The empirical material has been collected through eight in-depth interviews with young consumers aged 23-27, studying at university or college. The result shows that young consumers who studied the 3R principle in their education have knowledge in the field, but do not find these sufficient to make sustainable choices. The result also shows a positive attitude towards recycling and reuse of clothing, but not the priority to act sustainable. The conclusion is that young consumers have knowledge within the 3R principle, but these are not enough to change their consumption behavior. Young consumers also have an interest and willingness to act more sustainable, but not the priority to actually do so.

  • Karlsson, Lina
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Olausson, Niclas
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Cookies & content: Engagerande marknadsföring av textila företag2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    The constant media noise have led us to ignore the majority of marketing we are exposed for. Web 2.0 have contributed with new marketing strategies available and companies must adapt to these revised strategies to continue creating leads and customers. Personalized marketing, where customers choose to interact with the company and its’ advertisement, have yielded great results. Software, able to gather, track and analyze customer data, need to be used by companies in order to achieve the best results possible. If done right, there´s an opportunity to create high quality marketing content that engages and interests the customers. To what extent Swedish companies in the textile- and fashion industry make use of this interactive, personalized marketing, also called inbound marketing, is yet to be determined by research.

     

    Through this qualitative study, where semi-structured interviews have been conducted with companies within the textile- and fashion industry, the reader will be illuminated of how companies practice inbound marketing. How they are able to achieve interaction and engagement between them and the customers and what kind of inbound marketing they find most profitable. This study reveals that companies currently appear to be situated in the middle of a shift of strategies, where formerly used strategies are being questioned and where inbound marketing are gaining traction. This study establishes that companies shift towards a more intensive personalized marketing strategy with a lot more focus on the customer needs, where marketing through new channels are being used in order to engage customers to a greater extent. Search engine optimization, Facebook and digital newsletters are mutually important activities to yield good results based on digital marketing.

  • Claeson Holmgren, Mathilda
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Göransson, Tilda
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Cirkulär ekonomi på mikronivå: En fallstudie om hur ett mikroföretag imodebranchen kan agera för att sluta kretsloppet.2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    In Sweden 93% of the existing companies are microbusinesses. Despite this, there is a lack of research on how they can implement circular business models. The purpose of this study is to investigate what prerequisites a micro business within the fashion industry can have to implement a circular business model.

     

    Today’s economic system is supported by linear business models. This means that people buy, use and dispose of goods that may have a potential continuous economic value. Circular business models offer an alternative to the current economic system. They are based on reuse and recycling to upkeep economic value and cut down on byproducts that are harmful to the environment and people.

     

    Earlier research regarding circular economy, innovative business models and framework are presented in this study. Unstructured interviews with people working actively within fields such as reuse, recycle and eco-design have been held, as well as semi-structured interviews with the production manager and product developer at the case business of this study. The interviews have provided a wide knowledge around what prerequisites and course of action a micro business within the fashion industry can apply, to continue working against a more circular business model. The result of the study show that the micro business can operate in a circular manner, but require complementing activities and technologies regarding take back systems and external adoption factors.

  • Ewert, Mia
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Ulfsson, Moa
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Flatstickad distanstextil: Formstickad 3D-struktur och fokus på vidhäftningsförmågan hos olika bindningar.2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    Since 1907, the Swedish Sea Rescue Society has saved lives with the help of volunteer workers. Their vision is to be able to improve their rescue operations with quicker respond times by sending out a drone to the scene of an accident. The idea is to get a comprehensive picture of the scene, so they can adapt the right equipment and personnel for the job. The idea is to create a drone with a textile 3D structure, which would ease use as it would become flexible and easier to remove from the scene of the alarm. The drone should have a structure similar to a stand-up paddle board, where it can be inflatable and become stiff and then be deflated and folded and tucked away.

     

    The purpose of this study is to develop a flat knitted spacer fabric that will serve as a body of the drone, hoping that the textile 3D structure can be shaped like a wing. With spacer fabrics, space for air is created between the layers, enabling an inflatable construction to be created. By varying different parameters, one can also develop desired features such as stiffness, shape, flexibility and decrease weight. To be able to create a spacer fabric that is stiff when inflated, a finishing process is required. It is generally hard to find a finishing to a knitted fabric, therefore the study investigates the ability of different bindings on a knitted fabric to adhere to finishes.

     

    The shaped spacer fabric was manufactured by weft knitting on a flat knitting machine called Stoll CMS 822 HP. A wing shaped spacer and an oval cross section were achieved in this study. To investigate how the binding affects the adhesion of the finishing, three different bindings of flat knitted 2D- structures were tested. The bindings were: plain fabric (single jersey), pique structure over 2 feeders, pique structure over 4 feeders and plain fabric with plating. The finishing processes that were studied were silicone coating, a polyurethane film, a polyethylene film and a polypropylene film. The aim was to find a finishing with the properties of light weight, air and water tightness. An adhesion test was performed on the bindings plain fabric, pique structure over 2 feeders and pique structure over 4 feeders by a tensile tester to determine the adhesion between the tested bindings and finishes. These test specimens were also tested to determine resistance to water penetration and air permeability.

     

    The study shows that it is possible to create a shaped spacer fabric by flat knitting, that will act as the body of a drone. The result of the adhesion test shows that the test specimen with binding pique over 2 feeders and laminated with a polyurethane film performed the best. In the air permeability test the same binding showed the best result but with a lamination of a polyurethane film and a polyethylene film. The test to determine resistance to water penetration showed that the binding plain fabric was the best, with a lamination of a polyurethane film, and a polyethylene film.

  • Kronberg, Kristin
    et al.
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Svensson, Olivia
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Durable aesthetics: The aesthetic function of apparel2018Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    The thesis is based on the background of the speed of fashion and mass consumption of apparel, and how fashion-based items do not fulfill the premises of apparel on a long-term basis – the premises mainly being expression of identity. The purpose of the study is to examine the notion of durable aesthetics in relation to the premises consumers have for apparel. The research intends to answer questions of what the premises of apparel are and how it relates to durable aesthetics, what these garments can look like and what implications these answers might have in development of long-term apparel. The study is based on earlier research of fashion theory and consumption culture, and eleven qualitative interviews with perspectives from both consumers and apparel companies. Based on the consumer perspective, the aesthetic function of apparel is identified as something communicative – mainly conveying personality. Garments that are aesthetically appealing over time are always of good quality and fulfills the aesthetic function the consumers have. Based on the company perspective, garments with durable aesthetics are always in line with the companies’ DNA and the consumer segment. The conclusion is that apparel with durable aesthetics is versatile – it can be basic or expressive. The criterion in both cases is that the expression must be in line with a consumers’ aesthetic function, which is established through personality and core style. Companies can achieve a wide product range with durable aesthetics if they are consequent to their company DNA.

  • Lindström, Frida
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    Chemical and physical changes in PET fibres due to exhaust dyeing: Issues in thermo-mechanical recycling of dyed PET textiles2018Independent thesis Advanced level (degree of Master (Two Years)), 20 credits / 30 HE creditsStudent thesis
    Abstract [en]

    Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) is the most used fibre in the textile industry. PET is also used in other products, e.g. soft-drink bottles and food packaging. Approximately 60% of the globally produced PET is intended for production of textile fibres and the demand for polyester fibres have steadily increased over the last decade. Yet, most of the recycled PET fibres are produced from discarded bottles and not discarded textiles even though the generation of textile waste is increasing year by year. The importance of finding efficient recycling routes for discarded PET textiles is obvious. In thermo-mechanical recycling the thermoplastic characteristic of PET is utilized to re-melt and re-form PET waste into new valuable products. Today, this is used for bottle-to-fibre recycling but not for fibre-to-fibre recycling. The main research question asked in this Master thesis is if the process of exhaust dyeing compromise the possibility to recycle PET textiles through remelt spinning. It is believed that PET degradation through hydrolysis may occur during dyeing. The degradation behaviour of PET has been widely studied. However, degradation during exhaust dyeing has not been investigated.

     

    The process parameters temperature, time and number of dyeing cycles have been investigated. Also, possible effects of different auxiliary chemicals have been studied. Dyeing and characterisation of two PET fabrics with filaments of different titer was performed in order to investigate if the filament titer is also a parameter to consider.

     

    Tensile testing and surface characterisation through demand absorbency test showed that the filament titer seems to affect how the tensile and moisture related properties change due to dyeing. Differential scanning calorimetry showed that the crystallisation rate is affected by the dyeing process. This can be an effect of formation of shorter PET chains during dyeing. The auxiliary chemicals have been shown to be the most critical factor in changes of the crystallisation behaviour. Fourier-Transform infrared spectroscopy indicated that chain scission has occurred during dyeing.

     

    The results have shown that the exhaust dyeing process causes changes in tensile properties, moisture related properties, degree of crystallinity as well as crystallisation behaviour. DSC and FTIR results indicate chain scission. Based on the results it cannot be concluded if the changes are large enough to compromise the possibility to recycle PET textiles thermo-mechanically. Further research is required in order to correlate the observed changes with possible problems in thermomechanical recycling of dyed PET textiles.